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Old 12-16-2008, 07:17 PM   #1
StealthREX
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Default Misfires on All 4 Cylinders - Cold Weather Related

2000 Impreza 2.5RS - No modifications

The car has been flawless since I bought it. However, for the past two days--since winter began--the car has been misfiring. The check engine light popped up and the code stated that it was misfiring on all 4 cylinders. This was obvious news, since I can definitely tell it's misfiring. I suspected water so I bought some injector cleaner and Heet, which is gasline antifreeze and water remover. I haven't driven much, but the problem still exists. My battery reads 12.4V, oil is fine, coolant is full and after a thorough scan under the hood, nothing seems to be unplugged. Anyone else experience and fix this problem? The temperature here is 15 degrees F here and is snowing good.
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Old 12-16-2008, 08:08 PM   #2
StealthREX
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The problem disappears once the car warms to operating temperature. Hopefully it's just a cold weather related issue. Anyone else experiencing this?
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Old 12-16-2008, 08:53 PM   #3
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usually 15 degrees F isn't cold enough to cause fuel moisture problems. (wow, alaska is 15, today the daytime high was -10 here) Anyway, heet can only do so much, top off your gastank with different gas if you can and see if that helps. probably just going to take some time for it to work through.
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Old 12-18-2008, 12:35 AM   #4
3rdgearpinned
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sound run better inthe cold
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Old 12-18-2008, 01:03 AM   #5
Uncle Scotty
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coolant temperature sensor died maybe????

cam or crank angle sensor bad maybe???
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Old 12-20-2008, 04:21 AM   #6
StealthREX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkramer View Post
wow, alaska is 15, today the daytime high was -10 here
Haha... no. The car is in eastern Washington where I attend school. But I'm in Alaska now visiting for the holidays and it's MUCH colder.
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Old 12-20-2008, 11:36 AM   #7
DSM-2-WRX
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I'm having similar issues. I have misfires on all cylinders,confirmed by reading the CEL codes, and hesitations/bucking, worse from 2k to 2800rpms. Mine seems worse when the temperature/car warms up, but not always.

Last night my car wouldn't start when I came out from the store (had to bump-start it in the parking lot), and it ran worse than ever on the ride home. When I got home, the battery voltage was 12.7v. This morning, it was down to 12.3v, and with the AC fan and lights on, it drops to 12.0 volts, and the car will not start this AM. I'm thinking all these symptoms may be due to the weak battery (mine is almost 4 yrs old). The ignition coils probably aren't getting enough current/voltage, causing the misfires. I think that I've also been getting some bad gas lately, since it seems worse after filling up at certain stations. Maybe it's the combination of bad gas and a weak battery.

I'm going to replace my battery today. At 4 years old, it's a good idea anyways, and I know my terminals aren't the issue (I just cleaned them). You might want to check the voltage on the battery as someone cranks the engine to start it. If it drops below 10-11 volts, then it's probably time for a replacement. I was going to check mine this AM, but there isn't even enough juice to crank the starter (activate the solenoid?). Also, check the battery voltage once the car is running, to make sure your alternator is okay (it should put out 13.5+ volts if it's working well).

If my problem persists, then my next action will be to clean the AIT and MAF sensors with CFC spray, and I'll go over the grounding cables. I also already checked the airbox to make sure nothing was loose or was clogging it. You may want to do the same. I just replaced my fuel filter and plugs in April, so I'm pretty sure that's not it, but I'd replace those if I were you (if you haven't already). If I continue to have trouble, then I will check out the coolant temp sensor.

Some people might say it's a bad coil, but I would highly doubt it, since you have misfires on all the cylinders (it is also unlikely to be your plugs or injectors, for the same reason).
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Old 12-20-2008, 02:04 PM   #8
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So I go to Autozone, and the dude tests my battery (super nice and knowledgable guy, actually). As soon as he put it on the load tester, he said it looked okay (not too bad), and then he suggested putting it on their charger to see if it would hold more charge. I came back in 45 minutes at they retested it, and the battery is fine.

So..., now I'm thinking I have a problem with the cables. This could explain both the starting problem, and possibly the misfires (if the coilpacks aren't getting enough juice). I'm going to go over all the ground connections and the battery cables. Does anyone have a diagram of all the grounds?
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Old 12-20-2008, 02:06 PM   #9
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****can the battery....it will only give you more problems down the road
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Old 12-22-2008, 08:48 AM   #10
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Update: So Saturday I cleaned "all" the ground connections (right and left fenders, right and left top of intake manifold, and the connection between the main battery cable and the bracket that bolts to the engine block) and replaced the ground cable with a new 2 guage one from Autozone. When I tried to start it, the starter still wouldn't turn over. I also couldn't jump start the car either. The next morning, I pulled the starter out to test it and the solenoid (used jumper cables), and the starter/solenoid worked fine. So, I cleaned the tab on the solenoid (where the small starter wire from the ignition snaps onto), and I also cleaned the actual bracket that bolts to the engine block (where the main ground cable attaches) and the engine block itself with steel wool. Put everything back together and the car starts with no problem, and so far (last 50 miles) there has been no misfire, bucking, or hesitation. At this point, I think all the problems I've had with the misfires and starting have been due to the poor ground connection at the engine block. I would highly recommend popping off the intercooler and cleaning that grounding tab and the engine block where it makes contact. If the car continues to run well for the next week, then I'll know for sure that's what it was. I think the poor winter fuel just exacerbated the problem.
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:27 PM   #11
ingrownshoe
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I have a 2003 impreza ts. I was leaving the casino going down the exit ramp and had bottomed out pretty bad. When I pulled out I noticed the intake sounded louder and I have lost about 20%. I went to autozone and they had ran a test..misfires on 1 and 2 so I had pulled the plugs checked them they look fine I then pulled the wires 1 by 1 when the cas was started and theres good spark so i went back to autozone and had them run it again now all 1,2,3,4 are misfiring but its not a bad misfire doesnt shake to bad idle is fine just the intake sounds different and there is a slight shake on idle does anyone know what can be wrong?
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:44 PM   #12
etc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthREX View Post
2000 Impreza 2.5RS - No modifications

The car has been flawless since I bought it. However, for the past two days--since winter began--the car has been misfiring. The check engine light popped up and the code stated that it was misfiring on all 4 cylinders. This was obvious news, since I can definitely tell it's misfiring. I suspected water so I bought some injector cleaner and Heet, which is gasline antifreeze and water remover. I haven't driven much, but the problem still exists. My battery reads 12.4V, oil is fine, coolant is full and after a thorough scan under the hood, nothing seems to be unplugged. Anyone else experience and fix this problem? The temperature here is 15 degrees F here and is snowing good.
I have an identical issue with 98 Legacy L, 2.2L, as I wrote in another post before I saw this one.

I get P301 through P304, misfire on 1,2,3 and 4.

Just an observation, but I am pretty certain the battery has nothing to do with it. It's not used when driving, you get the spark from the alternator. Check the voltage when idling you should get about 15V, if so, your alternator is fine.

When it's cold, it's barely moving 2mph, it's that bad. When warms up, you can drive more or less OK, just get about 16MPG.
I replaced: Coolant Temp. Sensor, Plugs and Wires and the fuel filter. Next - the coil.
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:33 AM   #13
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthREX View Post
The problem disappears once the car warms to operating temperature. Hopefully it's just a cold weather related issue. Anyone else experiencing this?
coolant temp sensor may be bad and/or the knock sensor may be bad


knock sensors of that era were problematic and caused issues and these issues stop with a new sensor
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:14 AM   #14
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
coolant temp sensor may be bad and/or the knock sensor may be bad


knock sensors of that era were problematic and caused issues and these issues stop with a new sensor
Ummm...if it was the knock sensor, wouldn't he be getting "knock event CEL's"?
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Old 11-05-2009, 09:00 PM   #15
ingrownshoe
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Someone told me check the crank shaft sensor can that really be it caused from bottoming out?
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:04 PM   #16
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ingrownshoe View Post
Someone told me check the crank shaft sensor can that really be it caused from bottoming out?
you need a mechanic
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Old 11-07-2009, 06:34 PM   #17
ingrownshoe
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so i had a mechanic look at it and he said the spark plugs and the wires..... but ok ill try that dont see how bottoming out can cause that but ill try
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