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View Poll Results: Do you own/lease a 2009 WRX and have you experienced engine failure?
Yes 46 21.30%
No 170 78.70%
Voters: 216. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 12-19-2008, 10:54 PM   #26
Python96
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Again don't know if this is for our 09 or not but I also found this on the web on how the dealer is to check engine before selling.

Turbo Engine Stop Sale checking Procedure
On April 7, 2008 we informed you of a stop sale order on 2008 Impreza, STi and Legacy vehicles and 2009 Forester vehicles equipped with 2.5L Turbo Engines and produced with the beginning chassis number/production dates and later as shown below:

Model Body Type Chassis Number Production Date
Forester Wagon 701045 or later 2008/01/08 or later
Legacy 2.5GT-LTD 222825 or later 2008/02/04 or later
2.5GT-B 222958 or later
OBK 2.5XT-LTD 353835 or later 2008/02/01 or later
Impreza Sedan 523363 or later 2008/01/08 or later
Wagon 825183 or later

We took this action as a “Customer First” preventive action as we had confirmed, in other markets, that there was a small possibility of an “Engine Knocking Noise” caused by a contamination in the area of the connecting rod big end journal at very low mileage/time in service.

The action was successful in preventing the potential of failures for our customers.

Subaru has defined a screening process that you must perform to all of the affected vehicles in your inventory before delivery to a customer or putting in demonstrator service.

The screening process consists of several steps to inspect the condition of the engine oil to determine if the engine is not affected by the contamination, is already damaged, or has a potential for damage.

Both a flow chart and detailed instruction sheet of the process are included in this document. Each step must be followed exactly, no short cuts.

As soon as the engine is determined to be in proper working condition, it can be sold or put into demo service.

To perform the screening, you will need the following materials for each vehicle:
• New magnetic Oil Pan Drain Plug (1) (32103KA000 - only this P/N is acceptable)
• New Oil Drain Plug Gasket (1) (11126AA000)
• New Oil Filter (1) (15208AA100)
• Engine Oil 5w30
• Filter paper (such as a standard automotive funnel type paint filter)
• Clear plastic “wash bottle” 16oz (500ml), with angled flexible snorkel:

Please order a plastic wash bottle, 16 ounce (500ml / 500cc), translucent color for observing the color of the oil. The cap and pick-up tube colors are not important for this test. We suggest using the following suppliers and supply houses to locate the plastic wash bottle or equivalent:
• W.W. Grainger Supply, Inc. - Grainger Industrial Supply
• Fisher Scientic, Inc. - Fisher Scientific - Welcome
• Most Medical Supply Locations
• Most Beauty Supply Locations

Note: It is important that the opening at the tip of the flexible snorkel be at least 3mm inside diameter in order to properly allow any contamination that may be present in the bottom of the oil pan to pass through into the bottle. It may be necessary to trim the flexible snorkel to obtain the 3mm opening. See picture in flowchart on page 4.

Detailed Instructions
You will need to refer to the flow chart provided to follow this written procedure and refer to the photos and graphics for examples.

Always follow all environmental and hazardous waste handling precautions to prevent any contamination or safety issues.

Engine Screening Procedure One

1) Drain the engine oil through the drain plug.

2) Using the wash bottle, insert the tip of the snorkel through the drain hole, ensuring that the tip is between the bottom of the pick-up screen and the oil pan. Note: The wash bottle can be re-used, but it must be thoroughly cleaned with aqueous parts cleaner and dried. All residual oil, particles and cleaner must be removed to ensure that no false judgments are made.

3) Siphon the remaining oil and residue from the oil pan as shown in the drawing (approximately 100cc).

4) Observe the color and clarity of the oil in the wash bottle, and compare it to the examples in the photo found on the flowchart on page 4.
NOTE: If the wash bottle is not clear, pour the oil and residue into a clear glass container to make a good judgment.

5) If the oil is clear, the engine is okay.
A) Replace the oil filter, install a new magnetic Oil Plug and new Oil Plug Gasket, and refill with fresh engine oil.

Engine Screening Procedure Two

6) If the oil clarity or color matches the “Needs Check” samples, strain the oil through the filter paper and capture the material residue.
A)If there are copper particles larger that 1 mm in the material residue, the engine is damaged. Immediately submit an E-QMR and wait for further instructions.
NOTE: It may be necessary to clean the particles to determine if they are copper. Copper is reddish in color. There may be very small particles of other materials that are typical of a new engine, such as silicon, aluminum and ferrous (steel or magnetic) content, that do not indicate any failure.
B)If there are no copper particles, or they are smaller than 1 mm, proceed to step 7.

7) Install a new magnetic Oil Drain Plug, reusing the original gasket and engine oil filter, and refill the engine with fresh oil.

8)Start the engine and let it idle for five (5) minutes to flush any residue from the oil passages.
A)Stop the engine, drain the oil, remove and replace the oil filter, clean and reinstall the magnetic drain pug, using the new gasket.
B)Refill with fresh oil.

9)Re-start the engine and let it idle for 5 minutes.
Note: Be sure to allow the Air Pump operation to complete its cycle. It will be difficult to distinguish any engine noise while the pump is operating.
A)Quickly rev and release the engine to 6,000 rpm at least 10 (ten) times. Caution: Do not exceed 6000 rpm or hold above the red line.
Note: Be sure to follow the “Reving Procedure” found on the flow chart located on page 4.
B)Let the engine idle for a few seconds; then increase and decrease the rpm slowly to 2500 rpm, while listening for abnormal lower end engine noise.

10) If lower end engine noise is evident, immediately stop the engine and submit an E-QMR and wait for further instructions.

11) If no noise, the engine is okay, and the vehicle can be released for retail sale.
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:01 PM   #27
Python96
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Seems like it is the same problem that was happening to the 08's. I think SOA needs to increase the production dates and vin on this. It seems like it is effecting larger range then they thought. Just my 2 cents and I have a 09 but I am close to hitting 3000miles with no noise yet.
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:07 PM   #28
Longinus
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damn these stats are worrying
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Old 12-20-2008, 01:17 AM   #29
AshJWilliams
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Yes, it sounds to me like one of the stop sales was in fact for the same issue despite what a Subaru tech claimed.

Quote:
Considering that out of the people that voted no, there are at least 4 (and possibly more by the time this is posted) that have no mention of owning an 09 in their profiles, it would appear that I am not the only one to have made an 'improper inference'.
Do you own/lease a 2009 WRX and have you experienced engine failure? If you read that and you do not own a 2009 Subaru WRX yet you think that it was intended for you participate by voting no, I don't know what I can do for you. You are either an idiot or an *******. Either way, for the sake of humanity, do not procreate.
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Old 12-20-2008, 09:40 AM   #30
piecemealBHC
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Wow... you got me. You clearly have a command of the english language, and the social grace of Joe Dirt. Good luck with your poll, and enjoy your engine failure.
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Old 12-20-2008, 10:21 AM   #31
AshJWilliams
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I've never been so insulted as to be declared socially graceful. It just happens that I have more important things to concern myself about than injuring some Obama supporter's "feelings". I am so sorry to have slighted you by implementing the word "Do" rather than "If". I am even more sorry that you and apparently some others have not the mental capacity to make the logical inference.

BTW, I am no longer enjoying my engine failure. The long block has been replaced by Subaru and I have retaken possession of the vehicle as of 12/20/08.
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Old 12-20-2008, 04:50 PM   #32
RATROKT
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LAME

Too bad I cant post in the poll cuz I dont have enough posts. Doesnt make any sence on a 09 specific thread, especially since this is the place owners go when they have problems.
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:06 PM   #33
KAT_Ayanami
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Python96 View Post
A)Quickly rev and release the engine to 6,000 rpm at least 10 (ten) times. Caution: Do not exceed 6000 rpm or hold above the red line.

----------------------------

11) If no noise, the engine is okay, and the vehicle can be released for retail sale.

WTF happened then to "don't rev the engine over 4000 rpms when breaking in"????
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Old 12-21-2008, 12:51 PM   #34
AshJWilliams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RATROKT View Post
LAME

Too bad I cant post in the poll cuz I dont have enough posts. Doesnt make any sence on a 09 specific thread, especially since this is the place owners go when they have problems.
That's odd; I have only 42 posts and I didn't have a problem. Maybe you can contact a mod about this?

KAT, don't concern yourself with the 6000 RPM test procedure. I am fairly certain that at the factory at the end of the assembly line each vehicle is taken to 6k 10 times. I imagine that a lot of the hard numbers such as 4k RPM and 1000 miles is more lawyer speak than anything else. The thing I find funny about the aforementioned statement: due to the language the tech should hit at least 6k RPM but not exceed it...
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Old 12-22-2008, 05:18 AM   #35
mono666
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damn... it says I need at least 20 posts before I can cast a vote... anyways I would vote yes if I could..
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Old 12-22-2008, 02:44 PM   #36
skiboysteve
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same here.
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Old 12-23-2008, 09:59 AM   #37
SilverFleet
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I just voted no. I've had my car for about 1 week now, and have been doing nothing but very careful driving. I rarely take it above 3000 rpm while driving. I probably won't ever drive it hard because of this bearing nonsense!
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Old 12-23-2008, 11:00 PM   #38
dboz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverFleet View Post
I just voted no. I've had my car for about 1 week now, and have been doing nothing but very careful driving. I rarely take it above 3000 rpm while driving. I probably won't ever drive it hard because of this bearing nonsense!

Should have just gotten the base IMPREZA then.
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:20 AM   #39
mono666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dboz View Post
Should have just gotten the base IMPREZA then.
That is what I SHOULD have done... 2.5i Sport Pack and save my self the pain and money~
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Old 12-24-2008, 09:09 AM   #40
AshJWilliams
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I think I mentioned this in the other thread, but if it is going to go I'm sure you will want to have this happen while it is under warranty. In other words, I wouldn't be driving the car like grandma! Just drive it. If it goes, it goes. You get a new motor (and hopefully the problem is resolved).
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Old 12-24-2008, 09:38 AM   #41
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No, I SHOULDN'T have gotten the base Impreza, because I wanted the WRX. None of us should have to worry about blowing the engine after buying a brand new car. I'm just gonna take it easy until the motor's broken in. It's not a race car, it's my daily driver. I also have the Gold Plus warranty (7 years/100,000 bumper to bumper), so if anything happens I'm covered for a long time. Also, like others have said in the other threads about this, many new cars (not just Subarus) are experiencing serious problems, so it really doesn't matter that I bought this car or something else.
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Old 12-24-2008, 08:58 PM   #42
dboz
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You said you were going to baby it so why get the performance and drive like the 50 year old that gets a Corvette.
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Old 12-24-2008, 11:18 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAT_Ayanami View Post
WTF happened then to "don't rev the engine over 4000 rpms when breaking in"????
That's with a load, as in driving the car on the road. At a stop in neutral, revving the engine to 6k (as long as it is at operating temperature), should be no problem; unless the engine is defective.
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Old 12-24-2008, 11:21 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dboz View Post
You said you were going to baby it so why get the performance and drive like the 50 year old that gets a Corvette.
so true!!! we get our WRX to drive it as advertised in the CMs, why we end up with a car we gatta drive it like grandma? Plus I find the NA Imprezas more reliable than my WRX, it made it to 4000km!!!!
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Old 12-25-2008, 12:13 PM   #45
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I bought a new WRX because I like the WRX. That doesn't mean I have to drive it like a complete tool every time I get behind the wheel. I will be nice to it, especially during the break-in period, because that's what you do when you buy a new car. I'd rather have my car last a long time than blow it up bringing it to redline every time I shift. Like I said, it's my daily driver, not a race car. It doesn't matter what kind of car you get, if you beat the crap out of it constantly, then it's going to break.

I think it sucks that people are having these problems. These cars are supposed to be a dependable performance car that has the capability to be driven like a performance car, and it seems they are not. People shouldn't have to worry constantly about their brand new car blowing a motor. I posted my comment about babying the car out of sheer disappointment in the fact that so many people are having these problems, and I think it's unfair to get flamed for that. I share the frustration you all have in the fact that these cars are having so many problems.

Oh, and for the record, I had a lot of fun with my stage 2 2002 wagon. I used to beat the crap out of it, and I drag raced it numerous times, and was planning on autocrossing it in the springtime. In it's old age, it began to develop a few issues, and I wanted something more dependable for a daily driver that I didn't have to constantly fix without sacrificing the fun and power my wagon had. Is there something wrong with that?
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Old 12-25-2008, 09:01 PM   #46
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No one flamed you, but if you are going to drive mild mannered why get the WRX? Just save the money and stick with the plain jane. No reason to take it personal. We get what you are saying. The whole purpose of the WRX is to bang on it some. If not, why get it, for the hood scoop?
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Old 12-26-2008, 09:37 AM   #47
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I got it because they are fast, fun to drive, and I expected it to be able to take abuse like my 2002 did. I hammered on that car every day I owned it for over 3 years, and it was a good car. If I knew beforehand that the 2009's were having so many problems, I would have bought something else.
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Old 12-27-2008, 08:57 PM   #48
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Mine has 3,600 miles and no problems...so far.
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Old 12-28-2008, 03:36 AM   #49
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Hey -- small request -- can y'all post build dates for the cars with failed engines? heck, if yours is still problem free and you're posting to say as much, post your build date as well so we can see if there's any pattern at all or if this is truly an ongoing thing...

(if this has been compiled somewhere else, can someone point me to it?)

thanks!
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Old 12-31-2008, 11:38 AM   #50
mikestrat
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No problem yet at 2750 mi- I haven't posted enough so can't vote.

Would it seriously depreciate the car if it needs a new engine?
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