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Old 12-22-2008, 12:32 AM   #1
SpankySuby
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Default Battery Relocation Kit

Just a quick question guys for Auto-x and Track racing is it legal to have a battery relocation kit done and does it matter where i put the battery(in the trunk).
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:54 AM   #2
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I think it effects your class.

And it also might have to be secured a certain way. Or in a box or something.
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:00 AM   #3
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Your class (STX at minimum) allows it to be in the trunk secured properly. You don't need an external shutoff however if you try to drag race your car with a rear battery and no shutoff I think you will fail tech.
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Old 12-22-2008, 07:11 AM   #4
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Read the rule books for the venues you're interested in participating in. No answer here is going to be 100% correct.
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Old 12-22-2008, 08:09 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaverboy View Post
Read the rule books for the venues you're interested in participating in. No answer here is going to be 100% correct.
Bingo.
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Old 12-22-2008, 09:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaverboy View Post
Read the rule books for the venues you're interested in participating in. No answer here is going to be 100% correct.
Barring that, why does anyone relocate the battery with the much heavier cables (additional weight!) and not just get a smaller one like the tractor/Hawkeye batteries?

IMHO, ~7 lbs in the front is much better than 25+ lbs of cables and full size battery in the rear.

Lighter > additional weight (even tho trying to re-distrube it)

--kC
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Old 12-22-2008, 09:56 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC View Post
Barring that, why does anyone relocate the battery with the much heavier cables (additional weight!) and not just get a smaller one like the tractor/Hawkeye batteries?

IMHO, ~7 lbs in the front is much better than 25+ lbs of cables and full size battery in the rear.

Lighter > additional weight (even tho trying to re-distrube it)

--kC
Can't speak for the autox guys, however on a road course car sometimes the classes have minimum weights, in which case any excuse to move something from the front to the rear of the car is nice. If you have to add ballast anyways, you may as well try and get some weight off the nose, even if it is only 7 lbs. Plus, if you have tubbed front fender wells you quickly run out of the room for the battery.

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Old 12-22-2008, 11:29 AM   #8
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Rally cars also want a nice big battery as extra source of power when running the big driving lights at night. I've seem teams go so far as run two batteries. Their thinking is it's better to finish than to DNF for battery failure which is kinda common when you start banging around on stage.
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:55 AM   #9
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Yeah those tiny batteries die with the quickness.

Plus, overall weight loss is not always better than weight re-distribution. The Optima Red-top, which is an awesome, dependable battery weighs a ton. I'd rather have a couple extra pounds in cables, and move it to the trunk, then have about 40 pounds sitting at the extreme front left of my vehicle.
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:21 PM   #10
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interesting question ~ 25 lbs off the front end or add and relocate ~ 60 lbs (you need bigger than oe wires if running from the trunk and something to secure it w/)

clearly easier and cheaper w/ option #1, I can see option #2 being viable if your at min. weight and just want to move it somewhere else
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowscooby View Post
Yeah those tiny batteries die with the quickness.

Plus, overall weight loss is not always better than weight re-distribution. The Optima Red-top, which is an awesome, dependable battery weighs a ton. I'd rather have a couple extra pounds in cables, and move it to the trunk, then have about 40 pounds sitting at the extreme front left of my vehicle.
I have one in my Civic, have had it for a year, it's 10 degrees outside and it's still alive and healthy in my daily driver.

--kC
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Old 12-22-2008, 02:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowscooby View Post
Yeah those tiny batteries die with the quickness.
I ran one of the small Optimas in my car for 3+ years without problems. With the terminal (bolt) adaptors it was less than $70 and less than 15# (weighed on a digital scale).
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Old 12-22-2008, 02:08 PM   #13
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Just don't leave the lights on if the engine isn't running. I've done that twice coming in to work where it's dark and then light out and no 'your lights are on' chime.

--kC
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Old 12-22-2008, 02:15 PM   #14
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Again....it'll depend on class.... My CRX is in prepared, so I can do pretty much anything I damn well please.... I have an SCCA legal batt cutoff on the front pass part of the cage. The same cable that went into the stock underhood location reaches behind the pass seat on the floor. So that's where it is now. Lower, right side, farther back. And zero cost. win, win, win, and win.

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