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Old 12-22-2008, 12:52 PM   #1
BONFIRE074
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Default Timing Belt

Im at 80k now and just to be on the safe side im doing my timing belt. Just wanted to know if i should replace the timing belt with an OEM one, or if there is a better after market timing belt out there. I have seen in the SPT catalogs at Subaru the "upgraded" STi ones, will those work on the ej20? it also says for off road use only? Currently the car is stock but will be going stg 2 in the spring time. Also what else should i replace, water pump, thermostat and a coolant flush im assuming? anything else? thanks
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:54 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BONFIRE074 View Post
Im at 80k now and just to be on the safe side im doing my timing belt. Just wanted to know if i should replace the timing belt with an OEM one, or if there is a better after market timing belt out there. Currently the car is stock but will be going stg 2 in the spring time. Also what else should i replace, water pump, thermostat and a coolant flush im assuming? anything else? thanks
i just did mine this weekend. Use OEM, and search, some people say do all the other stuff and some say if it aint broke dont fix it.
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:54 PM   #3
jcbluescooby
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if it aint broke dont replace it..just do your timing belt, coolant flush, oil, brake and tranny fluids if you didnt do them at 60k
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:05 PM   #4
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Yeah but when the water pump and tensioner fails, you will be doing the same Big PITA job twice.
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:29 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by jcbluescooby View Post
if it aint broke dont replace it..just do your timing belt, coolant flush, oil, brake and tranny fluids if you didnt do them at 60k
I did this method.

Its honestly not a big deal to do the timing belt. Very simple on our engines so if they go I just fix them.
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Old 12-22-2008, 02:26 PM   #6
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seems sketchy to not replace it while your already in there and take the chance of it failing later on..but thats just my opinion
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Old 12-22-2008, 03:39 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by PolarisSnT View Post
I did this method.

Its honestly not a big deal to do the timing belt. Very simple on our engines so if they go I just fix them.
timing belt is probably the only thing you never want to wait until it goes! (interference engine + broken timing belt = )

The bad part about anything related to the timing belt is that if it goes, it has the capability of taking out your entire engine with it. Not replacing a simple tensioner pulley could cost you the motor later.
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Old 12-22-2008, 04:16 PM   #8
BONFIRE074
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I just called the local suby dealer and they said they only recommend doing the timing belt. it doesnt make sence to me if 20k later my water pump is going to fail, or the hydrolic tensioner is going to fail as well and then you have to re-do it all again..
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Old 12-22-2008, 06:52 PM   #9
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I'm in the same boat as you, although have more mileage on my car than yours. I have waited way too long to do my timing belt as well and at 108K and I worry every time I drive the car, which isn't too often these days. Anyways, does anyone have a complete parts list for performing my timing belt. I plan to change out the following:

Timing belt
tensioner
water pump
thermostat
A/C belt
alternator belt

I get confused about the following parts:
idler and idler pulley; are they the same, and if not, how many idlers do I need? When I search online, the websites all say idler #1, idler #2, and idler #3, which seems to me like I need three idlers plus the idler pulley, correct?

If anyone has part numbers to all of the items above, that would help alot.
Thanks
-Jeff
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Old 12-27-2008, 11:08 AM   #10
Kiel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efiniluvr View Post
I'm in the same boat as you, although have more mileage on my car than yours. I have waited way too long to do my timing belt as well and at 108K and I worry every time I drive the car, which isn't too often these days. Anyways, does anyone have a complete parts list for performing my timing belt. I plan to change out the following:

Timing belt
tensioner
water pump
thermostat
A/C belt
alternator belt

I get confused about the following parts:
idler and idler pulley; are they the same, and if not, how many idlers do I need? When I search online, the websites all say idler #1, idler #2, and idler #3, which seems to me like I need three idlers plus the idler pulley, correct?

If anyone has part numbers to all of the items above, that would help alot.
Thanks
-Jeff
The idlers are for your timing belt and the idler pulley is what mounts below the AC compressor. The idler pulley is usually the source of that bad squeaking/squealing noise when you turn on your AC (meaning the bearing is bad). The idlers themselves can't be seen with the timing cover on.
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Old 12-27-2008, 01:06 PM   #11
rkramer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiel View Post
The idlers are for your timing belt and the idler pulley is what mounts below the AC compressor. The idler pulley is usually the source of that bad squeaking/squealing noise when you turn on your AC (meaning the bearing is bad). The idlers themselves can't be seen with the timing cover on.
the idler doesn't know or care that you turn on the ac. the vast majority of the time the squeeling from turning on the AC is just from loose belt tension. Subaru doesn't use acc auto tensioners, most other car mfg's do, so people don't realize you need to check the belt tension and adjust when needed.
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Old 12-27-2008, 02:52 PM   #12
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true, the idler pulley is spinning whether the ac is on or off. its hard to say whether to replace the tensioner or not. i only replace them if there is oil on top of the seal, meaning it is starting to leak. if it isnt leaking, i dont replace it. but you cant tell if its going to fail 20k miles from now, but hell, you cant tell if anything is going to fail 20k miles from now. if it isnt broken or failing when i go in, i dont replace it. otherwise you just end up in a never ending cycle of "i better replace this while im in here," and a 200 dollar job turns into a 1000 dollar job.
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Old 12-28-2008, 10:09 AM   #13
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I'm going to do my timing belt as well, does the tensioner need to be removed to reset it?
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Old 12-28-2008, 10:23 AM   #14
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you can either remove it and put it in a vice, carefully, and pin it. or, use a small pry bar and push up on it using the water pump as leverage (again, very carefully) and pin it on the car before you take it off.
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Old 12-28-2008, 12:44 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Sudafed View Post
you can either remove it and put it in a vice, carefully, .
You are supposed to compress it oriented vertically so better get a C clamp
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:00 PM   #16
lotusaddict
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so it has to be removed from the engine either way? I figured you would just compress it and pin it, then change the belt. Is there a gasket that needs replacing as well?
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:17 PM   #17
rick-l
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We're talking one bolt here (torqued to 29 ft-lbs) right?
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Old 12-28-2008, 05:17 PM   #18
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yes one bolt. no, no gasket. i guess you could do it with it still on the car, but why? its just one bolt and it gives you a lot more room to work.
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Old 12-30-2008, 05:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BONFIRE074 View Post
Im at 80k now and just to be on the safe side im doing my timing belt. Just wanted to know if i should replace the timing belt with an OEM one, or if there is a better after market timing belt out there. I have seen in the SPT catalogs at Subaru the "upgraded" STi ones, will those work on the ej20? it also says for off road use only? Currently the car is stock but will be going stg 2 in the spring time. Also what else should i replace, water pump, thermostat and a coolant flush im assuming? anything else? thanks
I replaced anything that was easy, which was tensioner, all 4 idlers, water pump and gasket, thermostat (I didn't because mine was new), crank oil seal, oil pump o-ring. I didn't do the cam shaft oil seals or gears because I heard those were a PITA.

I was glad I did the changes, because the bearings on the water pump and 2 of the idler pulleys were all scratchy and worn, the tensioner was leaking oil, and the oil pump had a tiny bit of leakage at the bottom.

OTOH, once you've done it it's really not very hard so if you want to save the money don't sweat it. But I would at least do the tensioner (if it fails the belt could slip), and the crank oil seal and o-ring (very low cost). While the oil pump is off check that the screws on the back side are tight. Mine were but I hear they can loosen.
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Old 12-31-2008, 10:48 PM   #20
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Default power enterprises kevlar

I use this for no stretch throughout its life. Pull the pin and the tensioner doesn't move. http://shop.edoperformance.com/power...20-p-6463.html
It comes unmarked, so position and carefully mark your old one before you remove it. Transfer to the PE.
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Old 01-01-2009, 05:52 PM   #21
Ernest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcbluescooby View Post
if it aint broke dont replace it..just do your timing belt, coolant flush, oil, brake and tranny fluids if you didnt do them at 60k
I thought it does not need to be done until 90K?
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:12 PM   #22
KillerBMotorsport
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I will go the same route as audsyn when it's time for the timing belt. I'd hate to have a breakdown on a trip somewhere with wife and kids with me.
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