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Old 12-24-2008, 04:42 PM   #1
Dubld
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Default Timing belt went out at 70m.p.h....

I've got an 02obs with the 2.5ej25...
Is it true that this is a 'non-clearance' engine, meaning I most likely toasted pistons/valves?

If so does anyone have any advice on doing a swap or a rebuild with these. I'd rather build the motor up now since it'll be out.

Thanks.
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:36 PM   #2
Dubld
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Ok so the engine needs to be rebuilt, intead of that I was thinking of buying a new engine....anyone know of a good swap? I'd like to put a 2.5 dohc turbo in, will it fit?
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:50 PM   #3
Mechie3
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Are you sure it bent valves? I've skipped the timing belt (heads flipped 180 degrees) without any problems. If you're just guessing I'd go outside and check to make sure.

Swaps are easily done with the turbo crossmember, engine, ECU, and wiring harness. Lots of info is posted on these boards about it.
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Old 12-24-2008, 10:11 PM   #4
seanvetter123
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ya his engine is toast. the SOHC engines are non-clearance.
total suck but atleast you can get a nice swap done. there should be lots of threads about swaps on the forum. people do them all the time.
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Old 12-25-2008, 03:16 AM   #5
ballitch
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Instead of swapping in a new motor (unless you're going turbo) I would just buy a new set of valves and take the heads to a decent machine shop to have them rebuilt.

Now is the time for cams as well. Might as well make the best of a crappy situation.


~Josh~
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Old 12-26-2008, 06:32 AM   #6
Dubld
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Thanks for the advice, what kind of gain do you think can be made with a cam & redone heads?
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Old 12-26-2008, 01:58 PM   #7
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The common intake, exhaust, cams NA build seems to net people around 150awhp - which is like 50% more than stock. But without the intake & exhaust you won't see as much. People who go that route seem to really like it.
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Old 12-26-2008, 08:23 PM   #8
Dubld
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Alright! I definitely could deal with 315hp(or 300 or anywhere near there)...
O.k. so I'm pretty sure I want new cams along with the re-build of valves and whatever else decided to destroy itself.

So this is the plan, upgrade cams(???), new clutch(exedy), lightweight flywheel(act), headers to muffler exhaust(???), CAI intake(aem)...

Any suggestions on brands($$), fitment(ej25 in 02OBS)???
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Old 12-26-2008, 08:51 PM   #9
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I'd go with the NA build in your situation.

Delta Cams, borla rep headers, a good muffler for the sound (Stromung, Prodrive, etc.), Hybrid DIY intake using airbox (cheap). The AEM CAI just isn't worth the money.

How much are you looking to spend? Don't forget suspension too!
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Old 12-26-2008, 11:08 PM   #10
Dubld
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My budget for parts n labor is about $5000. I'm basing that off of the quote so far for the re-build($1500) and I was looking at Cobb for exhaust(pricey$1200 for headers, hi-flow cat((with O2 sensors)), cat back to muffler) and AEM for intake($300), clutch with flywheel($750), Techworks.com has some cams but seem pricey too & incidentals of course.
I'm interested in DIY intake so I'll look into that & the rest is just the stuff I could find. Suspension will have to come later with $$$ & my decision to go rally or road but will probably end up with coilovers & all the other goodies.
Thanks for the advice!
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Old 12-27-2008, 01:59 PM   #11
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cobb is a good choice for a header but i heard they dont make them anymore. IM not sure about that. OBX is makes a waht some people think is a good replica of cobb's headers. I havent tried them so I comment. OBx's are alot cheaper and quite similar tho, I can tell you that. If you're worried about spending a lot, obx will be the best bang for the buck Also, I personally wouldnt spend $300 on an intake. Get or make a ganzflow type intake. Just run an aluminum pipe from the torque/air box to the fender. You can stick a cone filter on it, or keep one in the torque box. Get cams, i wish i could, and then get it tuned.
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Old 12-27-2008, 02:43 PM   #12
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for a $5000 budget, id get some TWE 4-1's or something with a very nice merge collector. Ask most people who have OBX's and they will tell you the quality is nothing to mention. gains are substantial when tuning is involved.
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:19 AM   #13
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You've got $5000 to spend and you still want to be N/A? You need to look into forced induction if you have that high of a budget and want more power.

OBX headers: $330 shipped, I love them so i'm biased.
Delta spicy cams: $70 per cam, again, biased.
Pick your axleback: ?
boxer4racing midpipe: $170 plus shipping, not biased, probably getting one though.


With that you're not even close to a grand yet and you get decent hp.


~Josh~
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:00 AM   #14
DC16A2
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^Agreed, you have a monster $5000 budget... worth more than half my car when I bought it. Why piddle around being NA when you can go turbo? Maybe look at other options, like selling the car and getting a WRX... I can dish this "advice" because I have an OBS too =P
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Old 12-28-2008, 11:53 AM   #15
Dubld
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Thanks again for the advice! Obx seems like a good choice for my application, delta cams too.
Like I said, I'm already in it for $2000(labor & parts) with the engine re-build(oem parts even) & the clutch(have too, it's toast & was slipping b-4 timing belt went out). That's just to get it back driveable.
ballitch: great advice on cheap but productive parts!
I'm staying N/A to avoid cost & confusion. But if my engine is apart & the cams can go in easily why not? Intake & Headers back exhaust is about as far as I wanna go for engine performance with this car so I figure I'll have 2-$3k for that stuff(probably more than I need, but there's always supension/brakes/stereo & that really annoying electrical glitch that caused my cruise control, clock to go out!!!lol). I don't want to sell it because I got it for free & really like it, it's a d/d & I rally the hell out of it.
Random question: would lightweight pullys be any advantage with a lightweight flywheel?
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Old 12-28-2008, 12:26 PM   #16
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If you want power, turbo is the better route. If HP makes stars in your eyes, turbo. If you specifically want the NA behavior, the NA mileage, etc. then feel free to stay NA. With a good build, you'll see around 150-160HP at the wheels with a nice, broad and very usable torque curve from around 2k up. However, you're only looking at 140-150TQ at the wheels. A stock turbo will match/exceed these numbers. However, the power delivery is different in behavior. An aftermarket turbo will absolutely STOMP these numbers, but again, the power delivery behavior is different. If you want NA like delivery, you can look at superchargers too. As well, forced induction can't be done on a NA block, unless you completely rebuild the bottom end. It's just easier to start with a STI block and build from there.

It's all a matter of intended use. Also, consider the stock 5sp gear box when look at the end engine package. At some point the stock clutch will start to slip, at some point the gears become prone to damage, and at some point other hardware like the drive shaves become prone to failure. This will be above what a NA can do. This will be above what a stock turbo can do.
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:46 PM   #17
Dubld
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Very good points...
Staying N/A, while being as close to "stage 1" is kinda my goal, specifically to avoid having to upgrade tons of components...
I find out tommorrow the exact damage done internally & what my mechanic is gonna want to charge. I can't wait to post & see what everybodys opinion is.

Ok, so I ordered an exedy stage 1 clutch & act lightweight flywheel. That installed with new valves, timing belt, re-done heads...$3,000. I just might have some $$$ left to put new cams in...

Last edited by Dubld; 12-29-2008 at 01:39 PM.
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