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Old 01-09-2009, 08:44 PM   #26
GUN-IT
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Member#: 199693
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI
Crystal Grey Metallic

Default Try this.....

Hi guys. Well, unfortunately, I am now the former sales manager of a Chevrolet dealership (funny, I woudn't drive one!) and also ran the detail department. Before we closed, the guys would get a simple degreaser and cut it a bit (simple water with Purple Power). Get yourselves a large paintbrush and spray the solution on it and then spray down the engine bay. Have your hose with nozzle in hand. Use the paintbrush all over the engine bay and then rinse it off. Do it again until its clean. For the spots that are tough to get off, just use a rag with the solution. We never had a single problem with the solution messing with plastics or hoses. You can seriously use the cheapy degreasers from Wal-Mart. Just a suggestion to anyone who would like to try it.
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Old 01-09-2009, 10:37 PM   #27
EROC263
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I use the P21S for the wheels since they have a wax finish but as far as cleaning grease and oil, I have to agree about using Purple Power. I think it's environmental safe/biodegradable but i'm not sure about the PH balance? I would go with the P21S for starters but for the tough grease and oil, i'd probably step up to an actual degreaser like PP.
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Old 01-10-2009, 12:45 PM   #28
GUN-IT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EROC263 View Post
I use the P21S for the wheels since they have a wax finish but as far as cleaning grease and oil, I have to agree about using Purple Power. I think it's environmental safe/biodegradable but i'm not sure about the PH balance? I would go with the P21S for starters but for the tough grease and oil, i'd probably step up to an actual degreaser like PP.
You're darn right about the P21S. It's awesome stuff. It's just so much easier and cheaper to run pick up the Purple Power down at Advance Auto. The P21S products are my favorite by far. Some of the fellas on a budget can use the Purple Power method. The paintbrush is the big part though. Really gets those small areas. And the cool thing about Purple Power, you get a lot of it. It's got a good ph. Works great on bugs as well. The professional who sold us the stuff in bulk swore by it.
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:35 PM   #29
Tex-WReX
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Location: Pearland
Vehicle:
2014 Mustang GT
White

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctrent86 View Post
A) Because he asked me to
B) No one has asked me to share

I have nothing to hide so here is the process:

I used the products I have listed in the top of the thread. They are in fact links to where you can buy the products if you need to.

For tools-
Two different Boars Hair Brushes (different as in hair length)
Medley of Black Magic detailing brushes
MF towels for drying
Hi-Flow Pesticide sprayer for rinsing

Washing-
I start with diluted P21S TAW. I find that a 75/25 split of P21S to water still works fine. I have only had one instances where I had to use full strength, and that was to do the job faster.

Ok start with a cool engine (important because it will make detailing a pain and you can stain parts if they dry rapidly with chemicals like TAW). I start by covering intakes (if applicable), alternator, and disconnect battery terminals. Then I soaking the engine bay with TAW.

**Note here that I did not rinse with water first. That will just dilute the product more and just a preference of mine.

I let it sit for 5-10 depending on the grime level. Also, work in non-sunlight area. I check every couple minutes to make sure all the areas are still moist and do a couple refresh spray's if necessary.

I usually break up the engine bay in fourths and tackele one at a time. I check the other areas as I go to make sure again areas are still moist. I guess you could just spray one area at a time, but hey go crazy and develop your own method. As I am scrubbing, I use a medley of brushes. What brush I use depends on the grime, and space I have to work with. Most notable get a Boars Hair Brush. I would also recommend perhaps getting two with differing hair lengths. The longer hair ones will go into crack and harder to reach places well. As a shorter, will be better for scrubbing (if needed TAW is awesome).

Once I have completed an area I rinse just that area and go over sections that need a more through scrubbing. Just do the whole engine like this.

Give the engine a though final rinse with water. To make it easier for you, in the dressing do not let the water dry as you might get spots etc.

Drying
Completely dry all parts with MF towel or sham of choice

Dressing-
Once I have cleaned all the areas comes dressing. I use a combination of Adam's In and Out, and Aerospace 303 Protectant to do this step.

For items like hoses, parts that will get outside water exposure, or sunlight I apply a thin coat of 303. This will help keep those parts going strong. As a side note, I also spray this on my headlights to keep them clear and wax over.

Once you have dressed those parts with 303, then it is time to spray all items over with Adams. You do not need to apply a lot and clean excess with a rag. That is really it.

**However a huge change is now Adams In and Out is no longer in production. I am going to order some Einzette Rubber and Vinyl Protectant and see if it is a good substitute dressing. I personally do not like just 303 alone because it just doesn't have a good finish on as many materials as Adams does.

There you have it

Adams In and Out is back, and reformulated. I stocked up on about 12 cans from Detailcity prior to it going away. I would but it from the original maker, Autosmart in and out spray, but they stopped as well. Not sure who is making the new version.
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Old 01-15-2009, 05:58 PM   #30
jdubya301
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2002 stg2 wagon
03 suzuki sv650s

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adams in and out is some awesome stuff.

too bad that can goes so fast!
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:53 PM   #31
Sudaka
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02 WRX
SILVER

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[quote=KFC_Or_Bust;25078584]Is it a bad thing I knew from the first pic that it was a Saturn?

Ok, so I don't feel that bad now I thought I was the only one......hehehehe

How hard is it to wash the engine bay on a wrx?, mine is very dusty, but I'm not sure how to go about it. it seems that there is electrical things every where.

Last edited by Sudaka; 01-15-2009 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:45 PM   #32
darament
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Location: Mountlake Terrace, Washington
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WR Blue

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Quote:
This car was in rough shape and took a while to complete. However, I think the pictures show the effort was worth it.
definately not worth the effort. burn the car and get her a subaru and then clean the engine to make it worth the effort....
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:48 PM   #33
EROC263
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Location: Burlington, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darament View Post
definately not worth the effort. burn the car and get her a subaru and then clean the engine to make it worth the effort....
Maybe he was using it as a test mule ha. I always test my products out on my DD or others cars . If it can make a greasy old Saturn look that good, imagine what it'll do for your Subaru.
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Old 01-17-2009, 12:23 AM   #34
darament
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WR Blue

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well anything to get people to stop using anything but subaru's I still say burn it and get a new car
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Old 01-17-2009, 09:20 PM   #35
karkrazylv
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nice work guys !!! i need to do that to my titan!
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Old 01-18-2009, 01:45 PM   #36
ctrent86
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Location: Jax Beach, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darament View Post
definately not worth the effort. burn the car and get her a subaru and then clean the engine to make it worth the effort....
Funny thing is she likes her Saturn but complains when it makes all of the weird noises it does haha. She is becoming a believer in the Subaru's. In fact she can now recognize the subie rumble
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:48 PM   #37
ceecel
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Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
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Platinum Silver

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good post and good work!! Thanks for the tips...next warm day ill be tryin this one!!
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Old 02-05-2009, 11:31 AM   #38
RiSti05
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05 WRB STi
05CGMSTi-Sold, B5S4-Sold

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dammm....
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