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Old 06-24-2010, 10:29 PM   #1
needboost2live
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Default seafoamed the wrx

seafoamed the wrx today.... 1/3 the can in through the bpv vacuum hose. got a decent amount of smoke... not as much as the e36 325is when i did it but still got a good amount. seems to idle MUCH better. no more "shake rattle and roll" when idleing at a stop. seems to run about the same. I did my fiance's hyundai too (1/3 bottle) i'll run the remaining through the gas tank with a full tank of 93 tomorrow. i'm still leary about running it though the oil. I've seafoamed several cars through the vacuum hose and it def helps for all you who are hesitant. i've used it on about 5 different cars now. '89 jetta gli, 95 bmw 325is, 2003 hyundai xg350l, 86 golf gti, and a 2005 wrx. it's been no problem in any car. caused a CEL in the 05 wrx but nothing resetting the ECU didn't fix. smoked in every car but the xg350l. anyone who is has questions about it PM me. GO SEAFOAM.
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:50 PM   #2
STE1988
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What is the stuff for?
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:53 PM   #3
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Carbon cleansing
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:00 PM   #4
needboost2live
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Depends on where you put it. Through a vacuum line it cleanse combustion chamber and valves. Through the gas tank it cleans fuel injection system. Through crankcase... well it cleans oil system. Don't know I would recommend it through the oil though.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:04 PM   #5
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I put a full bottle in my last tank of gas, hoping it'll clean out my injectors as I keep getting misfire codes. Here's hoping it does the trick!
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:06 PM   #6
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as for oil i believe its required to change oil after u do the whole seafoam process. also they say u should change the spark plugs..
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:15 PM   #7
needboost2live
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Their website doesn't say to change the oil unless you put it in the crankcase (oil). I researched on several websites including seafoam's site.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:17 PM   #8
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I do plan on changing my plugs soon as I just today turned 60,008 miles
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needboost2live View Post
Their website doesn't say to change the oil unless you put it in the crankcase (oil). I researched on several websites including seafoam's site.
but they do say that u should put it into crankcase so why wouldnt u?
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Old 06-25-2010, 01:56 AM   #10
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Wirelessly posted (Phallic Tractor: BlackBerry9630/5.0.0.497 Profile/MIDP-2.1 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/105)

The stuff is magic.
I wouldn't put it in the oil too long, since we have oil-lubricated turbos. Might not work out so well if you ran it too long.
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Old 06-25-2010, 06:15 AM   #11
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I've used seafoam for a long time.

Great stuff.

ps- use the bpv/bov line for vac line, as the brake booster line, generically recomended by seafoam, only reaches 1/2 the intake manifold on our subies.
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicklz View Post
I've used seafoam for a long time.

Great stuff.

ps- use the bpv/bov line for vac line, as the brake booster line, generically recomended by seafoam, only reaches 1/2 the intake manifold on our subies.
the brake booster line only reaches 1/2 the cylinders too; if you look at the design of the intake manifold you'll see that it only reaches the 2 aft cylinders. there really isn't a best place to use it unless you've got a methanol kit and run it through there which could be really bad for the seals
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:07 PM   #13
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yeah i'm saying do NOT use the brake booster line as it only reaches 2 cyclinders
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicklz View Post
yeah i'm saying do NOT use the brake booster line as it only reaches 2 cyclinders
i understand that but so does the bypass valve which everyone always says to use. if you've got a stock manifold there is no port that effectively gets it in all cylinders
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:27 PM   #15
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bpv route goes from the bpv>>tmic>>TB>>manifold>>cyclinders am I missing something here??
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Old 06-25-2010, 03:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicklz View Post
bpv route goes from the bpv>>tmic>>TB>>manifold>>cyclinders am I missing something here??
the line you use from the bypass valve comes from the intake manifold; when you run seafoam to it, it doesn't flow through to the intercooler.

If you could atomize the seafoam then yes it would reach all the cylinders, but because of the shape if the intake manifold (this is strictly conjecture) but the seafoam will just pool at the bottom of the intake manifold and flow through the runners that feed the 2 aft cylinders

http://www.grimmspeed.com/images/pro...ct_image_1.gif

that shows a picture of the stock intake manifold; the port for the bypass valve vacuum line is at the bottom of the intake manifold; there's no way for the seafoam to reach the 2 forward cylinders unless its suspended in the air
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:12 PM   #17
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wouldn't it make more sense, then, to perhaps use the aerosol seafoam and blast it through the throttle body?
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Old 06-26-2010, 09:54 AM   #18
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how to use in oil:
pour 1/3 can into crankcase, let idle for 5 min, drain and replace oil and filter
do not drive or place any load on the engine as the seafoam breaks down the oil along with all the gunked up crap in the crankcase and heads.
oil will come out the consistency of coca cola
i would be hesitant to use this on any subaru or anything with a sensitive bottom end(you know what i mean)
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Old 06-26-2010, 11:27 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feint05 View Post
how to use in oil:
pour 1/3 can into crankcase, let idle for 5 min, drain and replace oil and filter
do not drive or place any load on the engine as the seafoam breaks down the oil along with all the gunked up crap in the crankcase and heads.
oil will come out the consistency of coca cola
i would be hesitant to use this on any subaru or anything with a sensitive bottom end(you know what i mean)
i've driven around for a week (~100 miles) with a 1/3 can of seafoam in the oil; blackstone labs says my engine is fine
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:35 PM   #20
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Good work guys. I like to use the Big Vac line on the front of the intake manifold. That line goes to the Gas tank evap solenoid. Unplug it, Run some hose to a plastic spray bottle. Get the empty spray bottle at your garden center. Unscrew the nozzle and slip the hose over the exposed threads of the bottle. While you are at the home center, Get some clear tubing. You know, The kind you used to make that beer bong in college...They make the clear hose in smaller diamters. This way, You can see the cleaner go through the hose into the engine.

I like "GM top end cleaner". You can get it an any GM dealer for abotu $7. I have done this many times and it really makes a big difference in power. Once that carbon is all gone, you can run alot more ignition timing and you wont knock.

Clark
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:39 PM   #21
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You guys like the stuff? I think its somewhat over rated. I didn't notice a difference.
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:44 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STi-Thrill View Post
You guys like the stuff? I think its somewhat over rated. I didn't notice a difference.
If you didn't notice a difference you had minimal carbon deposits to begin with.
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Old 06-26-2010, 02:04 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVT_WRX View Post
If you didn't notice a difference you had minimal carbon deposits to begin with.

Minimal carbon deposits on a 94 Honda Accord? Tons of white smoke poured out of the exhaust, no difference.
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Old 06-26-2010, 02:10 PM   #24
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No guess work here.. at the shop they used a bore scope and looked into the cyls. Saw all the carbon.. Ran the cleaner, Pistons where spotless clean. NO carbon. New plugs and a retune got that car back to full power.

C
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Old 06-26-2010, 02:15 PM   #25
SVT_WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STi-Thrill View Post
Minimal carbon deposits on a 94 Honda Accord? Tons of white smoke poured out of the exhaust, no difference.
Now you are talking about a totally different car. IDK... Did you at least notice better gas mileage?
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