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Old 01-02-2009, 12:11 PM   #1
StiDreams
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Default OT Climbers Check In (2009)

Last year was an excellent year. It was my best climbing year to date. Below is the tick list from the year. I copied it from the ’08 thread. There’s some missing that I didn’t list from local cragging but it’s mostly complete.

May 16, 2006 Lover’s Leap with Chris

Better With Bacon (.8)
The Groove (.7), Hospital Corner (.10a), Corrugation Corner (.7)
East Crack (.8), Haystack (.8)

May 31, 2008 Yosemite with Chris

East Buttress of Middle Cathedral (.10c)

June 20, 2008 Lover’s Leap and Sugarloaf with Tim

Deception (.6), Harvey Wallbangers (.6, .7)
The Groove (.7), Corrugtion Corner (.7), East Cracks (.8)
Hog Wild (.7), Harding’s Chimney (.7), Dominion (.10a)

July 19, 2008 Tuolumne with Tim

Fairview Dome (.9), The Great Circle (.10aR)
West Crack (.9)

July 25, 2008 Tuolumne with Chris

Blown Away (.9+), South Crack (.8)
Matthes Crest (.5)

Aug 15, 2008 Tuolumne with Tim

Blown Away (.9+), On The Lamb (.9)
Eichorn Direct (.10b)
Hoodwink (.10a)

Sept 5, 2008 Tuolumne with Tim

Crest Arch (.9+), Cooke book(.10a) failed
Excellent Smithers (.10a), Shagadellic direct (.9)
Crying Time Again (.10a)

Sept 27, 2008 Sugarloaf with Tim

Bolee Gold (.10c), Make That Move Now Baby (.10c), Figerlocks (.10b)

Oct 11, 2008 Yosemite with Tim

East Buttress of El Cap (.10b)

Oct 25, 2008 Yosemite with Tim

East Buttress of Middle Cathedral (.10c),
Pine Line (.7), Mobie Dick (.10a), Little John Right (.8)

I’m really looking forward to this coming year. Hopefully it will be just as strong. Along with some new ambition I’m hoping to get to some of the climbs I didn’t get to last year. Hopefully I’ll actually make it out of Whitney Portal this year. And maybe some big trips in the valley. We’ll see. So on with the plan (because there has to be):

Whitney: East Buttress (.8)
Russell: Fishhook Aręte (.9)
Russell: South Face (.10c)
Keeler Needle: Harding Route (.10c OW crux)

Half Dome: Regular Northwest Face (.9 A2)
Half Dome: Snake Dike (.7)
Higher Cathedral: Northeast Buttress (.9)
Middle Cathedral: Central Pillar of Frenzy (.9)
Royal Arches Area: Serenity Crack (.10d)
Royal Arches Area: Sons of Yesterday (.10a)
North Dome: South Face (.8)
Reed’s Pinnacle: Direct (.10a)

Phobos/Diemos Cliff: Phobos (.9)
Phobos/Diemos Cliff: Diemos (.9)
Daff Dome: Cooke Book (.10a) unfinished business
Dana Plateau: Third Pillar (.10b)
Drug Dome: Oz (.10d)
Fairview Dome: Lucky Streaks (.10d)
Limbert Dome: Direct Northwest Face (.10c)
Matthes Crest: Traverse (.7) unfinished business
Mariuolumne Dome: Hobbit Book (.7R)


Some of this year’s list is ambition speaking (possibly ahead of skills) and some of it is going to happen. It will all depend on how strong I’m climbing and what partners I have available to me.

Ok, climbers let’s hear what you have planned and let’s see the trip reports.
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:13 PM   #2
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FantastIc Really thatS a cool Trip!
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:39 PM   #3
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Jan 15th - Hyalite Canyon and Beartooths
May 3rd - Mt Hunter - West Ridge
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:54 PM   #4
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That is awesome. I just got back from a 2 week bouldering trip in and around bishop and tahoe. Next year, I want to try some multi-pitch on half dome and climb sport at owens river. If my plan works out, I'd like to stay there for 1-2 months oct/nov.

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Old 01-02-2009, 01:22 PM   #5
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Is that the Mandalla? Did you get that?
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Old 01-02-2009, 03:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StiDreams View Post
Is that the Mandalla? Did you get that?
Yes to Mandala, and no, I did not send. However it felt very do-able for me. Unfortunately I was only able to try it half a dozen times since it was at the tail end of 3 straight days on. My skin was painfully cooked. The weather rolled in after that and spoiled the rest of the trip. God willing, it's on my tick list for next year.
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Old 01-05-2009, 04:37 PM   #7
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Mandala has the hard. I've flailed on that myself. Where else did you hit on your trip?

Might as well transplant this into the 09 thread.

Official last climbing day locally was 12/10/08 at Big Chief. Pounding snow ever since.

Here is Snowshed Wall at Donner Pass 3 wks ago:


Might get a January thaw though. That would be sweet, climbing at Donner in January in the sun surrounded by snow and skiers. Wouldn't be the first time.


Just got back from a new year's trip to Red Rocks in Vegas. Good short trip, Truckee to the campground in 7 hrs.

Went from this:



To this:



MUCH colder than it looks. Ragged edges was frigid, one pitch and out of there:




All the freezing quickly turned us to this:

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Old 01-05-2009, 04:37 PM   #8
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Random crack we climbed because it was sunny:



Cold




Real tough to get going in the morning, but you had to get out early for any hopes of sun


Beep beep. Roadrunner:


Only good thing I've found in Fallon, NV besides cheap gas, nice sunset on the drive home:



Great trip overall, you don't get too many pitches in in wintertime unless you're doing 5.6. Long sunny moderates are more plentiful, and as such, popular this time of year. We were after 5.10. Funny, didn't get any more photos because I thought my battery was dead in my camera, so I left the camera next 2 days cursing myself for not bringing my charger.

Brass wall, we did tons, tshirts and sun all day. Great crag. Did Varnishing Point 5.8, the varnish is so slippery that it squeaks when you smear on it. Did Mushroom people, 5.10d, great crack.

Hit Solar Slab, too. Did Beulah's Book 5.9, wild chimney start to 2nd pitch, did some 360's in there, then you dive into a fist crack. Its next to Johnny Vegas 5.7. Did Red Zinger, pretty tough 5.10d, just followed it, scaryish. Gear ain't so great, but the route is rad 1 1/4" crack that turns to hands.

Going for Indian Creek in March. That will be rad, first time there. Hopefully some local climbing, maybe the Valley in between.

I am still waiting for some awesome photos of Rumbling Bald trip from fall, complete with fall colors. My buddy is retarded and lost the CD as soon as he got it.
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Old 01-12-2009, 02:57 PM   #9
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Finally got a hold of some pics from Sonora Pass in 8/08

Adam on Pangaea 2 pitches, 22 bolts per pitch 10c. Awesome, will do again.




The awesome and photogenic Green Monster 12b, team effort

Adam




Me


Sue



John finishing her up


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Old 01-12-2009, 03:07 PM   #10
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Moar:

Bear's Lair the next day, 11a






Bikini sighting at Donnell Reservoir, 300 yards downhill, there's 2 routes to her right that come out of a boat from the water for like 20 pitches. One day maybe.

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Old 01-12-2009, 03:08 PM   #11
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Awesome. .12b that's hardcore.
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:09 PM   #12
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Not my lead grade, but you can't help but throw yourself at it. Surprisingly doable, crux at the last bolt.
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:20 PM   #13
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Wahoo, Owens River Gorge in February, 65 degrees





Slackline we found set up on the first day, Sam and Silas tried to nut up for it, but none could . Scare-E.





Sam on El Sendero


Silas on the upper corner


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Old 02-16-2009, 12:25 PM   #14
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Nice. Glad to see somebody is getting out.
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:25 PM   #15
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Eldorado Roof, some dude in there flying off of Brewtalizer 12d repeatedly, he got it.





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Old 02-16-2009, 12:31 PM   #16
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LFW are you down in the gorge area right now? It's freakin dumping snow 45 min away here in Mammoth.
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Old 02-16-2009, 01:05 PM   #17
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Nah, this was beginning of the month, before it started snowing again. We're getting pounded on here too.
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Old 02-16-2009, 02:04 PM   #18
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LFW I was out in Red Rocks over new years. I actually remember seeing your car around the camp site and the park some.

We were in Red Rocks for two weeks while on break from school. Did a lot of climbing on the warm days and a couple days bouldering too. Although I still dont have any pics. I also went down to the Red River George a lot. At least once a month, if not more, during school and for 2 weeks in the summer.

This year im waiting for it to warm up to start climbing. During spring break ill be in Tennessee hanging out but were taking climbing gear since we might climb some. Anyone know of good places down there.

Nice to see there are climbers on the forum.

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Old 02-16-2009, 02:08 PM   #19
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Tennessee wall is supposed to be the bomb, lots of gear climbing I heard.
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Old 02-16-2009, 02:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red jester View Post
LFW I was out in Red Rocks over new years. I actually remember seeing your car around the camp site and the park some.

We were in Red Rocks for two weeks while on break from school. Did a lot of climbing on the warm days and a couple days bouldering too. Although I still dont have any pics. I also went down to the Red River George a lot. At least once a month, if not more, during school and for 2 weeks in the summer.

This year im waiting for it to warm up. Just starting getting strong at 11s and have some 12s ill be looking to red point. And during spring break ill be in Tennessee hanging out but were taking climbing gear since we might climb some. Anyone know of good places down there.

Nice to see there are climbers on the forum.
Foster Falls in middle TN has some great (for TN) climbing. Great place to swim when you need to cool off too. Not too far from JD distillery either.
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:45 PM   #21
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Well, it certainly is pounding snow here. Sounds like it is the same (but less) around Indian Creek, so we are heading to Vegas for some 62-71 degree red Rocks. It will be good.
Anybody going to be around CA wanting to climb perhaps? I only have partners lined up for 3/4-3/9. I have until 3/15 to climb, I was going to start in Red Rocks and dependent on partners plans and availability, stay there or move upwards to Bishop or preferably Yosemite for some lower canyon climbing and whatever else is favorable. Basically, just going where the warmest, dry option is in this order of preference:
Red Rocks
Yosemite
Bishop
JTree

Any takers?
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:42 PM   #22
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Went out to Mt. St. Helena Sunday and climbed a bunch of sport routes. They’re all short. There’s one that’s about 100’ but the rest of them are probably more like 60’ t0 70’.

We warmed up on a route that’s all the way to the left. It’s not in the guide but I guess it probably goes at .10b. It shares the first couple of bolts with “Jekyl and Hyde”. Tim was up first and he hung at a couple of spots but was able to work through it. I’ve been on it before and followed up without issues.

Next up we went all the way to the right to a climb called “Wayne’s World” (.10b/c). It was my turn on the sharp end and I got shut down at the half way mark at the crux. That ting is super burly for a .10b/c. It felt like I was on an .11a/b.

Tim led the next climb. The “Aręte” goes at .10b/c. That thing climbs more like a/b but it’s a good one.

After that I got on “Black Hole Sun” (.10d). It only has one hard move and the rest goes relatively mellow. It was probably my favorite climb of the day. But I’m not sure if it’s deserving of a "d". If that thing is a “d” then “Wayne’s World’ is a heavy duty sand bag.

Next up we went over to a climb called “Rampage” (.10c). Tim was up next but he got shut down a couple of bolts up. I got on it and sent.

We really didn’t do what we went up there to do. We were going to practice a little bit of aid climbing since we have a plan to go to Half Dome this summer. We were going to practice some pendulums and lowering out but it was getting late so we decided that we would practice a little bit of jugging. I set up an anchor and we would jug up “Rampage”. Tim has never done it before so it was a bit of work for him. But I really don’t recall jugging ever not being work. It was a decent day on the rock.
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:13 AM   #23
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Nice. Good earlyearly spring trip sounds like. I just went to Red Rocks, came down with strep throat and came back...FTL. Climbed one pitch, that was it. It was cold in Black Velvet Canyon, boy. Maybe Yosemite next weekend...
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Old 03-28-2009, 11:29 PM   #24
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The plan is to head up to Sugarloaf (Kyburz, CA) and get in this year’s first trad leads. Tim wanted to lead some of the stuff he followed me up last year. That was fine with me. It’s always nice just be the second. There’s way less stress.

First up is Dominion (120’ .10a). I did this one last year and he followed it. I was pretty happy to get it cleanly. He came up behind and didn’t think that it was that bad. I told him that he’ll feed differently about it when he’s on the sharp end of this sucker. He cruised the bottom. But he had problems with the thin lie-back/stem section that comes before the crux. He was having problems getting gear and staying in. He took a fall there but didn’t hit anything on the way down. It took him a few tries but he eventually got it. He doesn’t think the same about it now.

Next up is the Fracture (80’ .10d). Tim suggested it last week but I wasn’t sure I wanted any of it. I looked at it and it didn’t look too terrible and the falls were completely clean. I told myself if you want to climb hard you have to climb hard. I got on it and the first section went easily. The start is an awkward undercling to a good layback. The first two pieces of gear was really solid and easy to get. The third piece was really balancy and awkward. The good lie-back is gone and you’re to the right of the crack but it leans left. Above this you have to transition from the right side of the crack to the left side. This is the first real crux. The locks are so-so and the balance is all wrong. Once you do that transition to the left side you’re standing on a couple of decent knots (as decent as it gets for .10d). You can get good gear (small cams, .33 and 3/8 aliens). Now comes the business. There is a good finger lock for your right hand but your left hand is really bad shallow tips. You step up high with your right foot to an edge that’s about three inches below your right hand and you crank over it. Relying on you ****ty left hand you reach high with your right hand to a sloping hold. Stand on your right foot you can reach way up to a really decent lock. Ahhhhhhh and I’m off. A couple more tries and I send. That was my first .10d trad lead. I didn’t go cleanly but I’ll get it next time. Good practice or Serenity. This thing is a great line for those trying to break into the hard tens.

By this point the place is packed. There must have been a bagillion people there. That’s right a bagillion. Probably more like 30. Every line was occupied. We decide we’ll head over to the west side and see if we can get on Pony Express. No dice. There’s a line there. So we head down the hill. There’s a rock between Midway rock and the main rock that has a pretty mellow low angle (100’ easy .9 or hard .8) on it (not in topos). The thing is probably about 100’ long with eight or so bolts. Tim leads it and cruses it. It’s fun. Kinds of reminds me of Tuolumne slab climbing (but with five extra bolts). It has small edges with delicate moves.

After that we head down. Tim wants to give Finger Locks (80’ .10b) and Make That Move Now Baby(100’ .10c) a go. We get on Finger Locks and Tim is struggling a bit but is able to make it to the bulge cleanly. But he struggles with the bulge below the finish and takes a couple of falls. After a bit of a shake out he sends it. This climb is great fun and on follow it’s even more fun. After that Tim gets on Make That Move Now Baby. He doesn’t get the .11a opening move and pulls the first drawer. After that he makes his way to the .10c overhang. After a few falls he sends. I almost get the the .11a start but fall. I try again but it’s a no-go. I pull the hanger and go to the top.

We took some falls but we were both at our limit. It was a good first trad day out.
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:10 PM   #25
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Went to Berkley last weekend (3/28) and climbed at Rimlar and Cragmont Park. It's all top-rope and short. It was a fun day.

I need topo info on Mt Russell. I have the SuperTopo one but other than Fishhook, it pretty much lacks any other information. I would like a topo for Mithral Dihedral, Star Trekin and Weatren Front. Is there a better guide out there?
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