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Old 01-11-2009, 08:52 PM   #1
wisewhiterabbit
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Default 98 2.2 L imp at

as my prof says i have 98 imreza L automatic n/a 2.2. i was wondering what i can do in the way of mods short of a swap. im already planning on a hybrid intake. what does the underdrive pulleys do/bring to the table ? also i was considering a manual swap but i dont know what will fit and what i'll need to make it work. and then theres suspension i've seen tiens for the 93/98's but what good are they in general ? thanks in advance. reasons being i was at sea level in baltimore md and now im on in the hills of west virginia and the power loss is noticable. the at wont shift to top gear till i was hovering above 50mph when before it was 40 and boy does it strugle now to get up the big ones.

side note is it true the automatice's torque split is more to the front than rear ? if it is how much so ?
once again thanks in advance

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Old 01-11-2009, 10:14 PM   #2
clokwork
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is it really front biassed? if so, that might cover the feeling I get in the steering feedback.
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:22 PM   #3
wisewhiterabbit
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yep it deffinately feels like it because when i climb my drive way (dirt/gravel) and stab the gas abit i fell the steering wheel rattle like the front wheels are spinning, this has happened a few times before on dry hot days in town on tarmac so i know its not just the gravel making it rattle
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:23 PM   #4
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An auto to manual swap isn't worth in my opinion unless you will be doing an engine swap. I mean, you already have the engine out.

Suspension: Tein, what? Springs or coilovers? Their stuff isn't the best, and it's expensive.

Underdrive Pulleys: The release wasted horsepower by reducing the stress put on the engine by reducing weight and mass.

I hate my auto too.
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Old 01-13-2009, 02:38 PM   #5
wisewhiterabbit
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out of plain curiosity would a 2.5 rs cat back fit a same year 2.2 cat back ?

and one more thhing how can i get rid of the speed limiter ? (not the rev limiter)
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Old 01-13-2009, 07:42 PM   #6
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Yeah it will.

I don't know how to get rid of the speed limiter.
Why?
You're not going to mad tyte street race it are you?

Some ECU reflashes and tuning remove it.
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:28 AM   #7
wisewhiterabbit
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no but i have a rare once in a blue moon urge to go as fast as possable and i know the car is capable of more than 112mph. once i snap the needle in the speedo i'll be happy (some sarcasm intended)

edit as weird as it sounds i'd rather reach (insert big word here) in a vehicle rather than get held back and smacked in the face by a speed limiter. and yes i know terminal velocity is meant to mean the maximum velocity reached when an object falls to earth under the force of gravity alone. i think the right word im looking for is something along the lines of drag coeficient vs power. basicly going as fast as the car can go without changing amount of power or shape. ugh i cant find the word and im too tired to care so thats the best i got for now. hopefully someone understands what im trying to say

ok one more edit and then im passing out whats lighter aluminum carbon fiber or fibre glass example one hood for another

Last edited by wisewhiterabbit; 01-14-2009 at 02:47 AM. Reason: just adding ex
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:42 AM   #8
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if you're going over 100MPH in your L, you're going too fast. you're going to get seriously hurt, and no one wants that.

the AT power split is 90 front, 10 rear, until it notices wheels are slipping, then it goes to 50/50. also, i believe it's 50/50 at WOT through first and second.

if you want to mod, go with suspension first, then maybe an exhuast. and keep it under 100 MPH please.
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:04 PM   #9
wisewhiterabbit
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when i say once in a blue moon i mean like no more than 2-3 times a year tops and since i moved all these twistys through town keep me happy i have yet to find a speed limit under 40 (except in berkly but most roads are 55 and on these roads thats pleanty fun.

i agree though in stock form and for the people that may be around me at the time its not safe to go anywhere near past 80. however it does alow me to find things wrong with the car hence only 2-3 times a year to make sure everything is in perfect working order. though recently the car seems to slip when trying to push up hill after 60 it kind of lets go for a split ssecond looses about 200rpm and then chugs along like it never happened i suspect the transmission which is why i asked about the tranny swap. engine is still running like a champ (gdi i hate auto)
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:32 PM   #10
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Old Camaros and Mustangs are impressive.
..At the drags.

You're not an old camaro though, you are a nimble subaru.

Cmiovino is right, work on suspension.
Don't worry about breaking your rev limiter or yer needle, it's more impressive to be able to make a turn and stop.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:22 PM   #11
wisewhiterabbit
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well whose got cheap(priced) but not cheaply made tunable coilovers besides tien ?
another side note: is it possable to "teach" the transmission when to shift ? lately my auto only likes to shift into 4th after i hit 50 doesnt matter if im up or down hill ? back when it was the 2nd year or owning it i used to accellerate hard till the end of the gear let go of the gas wait for it to shift then hit the gas again which netted me a second less on 0-60. weird i know..... i think my recent problem is i chipped a tooth on 3rd gear hence the slip and the fact that first sometime doesnt engauge all the way till i get it moving example being sitting at a stop light and when i go at light throttle the revs will climb to about 3 then it'll start moving and then the tranmission catches up and gets going from that point on like it never happened even when i come to another stop light. seems to only do this from cold start.....beats me im only aspiring to be a mechanic

Last edited by wisewhiterabbit; 01-14-2009 at 10:33 PM.
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Old 01-15-2009, 10:47 PM   #12
Smoke
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^My tranny seems to not like to shift below 4k in 1-2 gear.

A lot of people here have BC Racing Coilovers, which arguably are the "best" cheap coilovers because of bang for buck performance and comfort.

You don't need coilovers, btw..
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Old 01-15-2009, 11:24 PM   #13
wisewhiterabbit
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ok call me dumb as dirt but why do i not need coilovers ? for trackish enviroments should i just get an adjustable strut and slap a stiffer spring on it ?

etn: i already plan on a rear brake conversion strut tower bars and sways and new bushings all the way around as need be

Last edited by wisewhiterabbit; 01-15-2009 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 01-16-2009, 01:33 AM   #14
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As far as going fast without a swap, good luck... I have a 1996 L and I added intake and exhaust, thorough weight reduction and it's still slower than my aunt's '01 2.5RS lol. I haven't seen too many fast L's with the N/A EJ22 and the ones that exist usually don't last too long. If you really want cheap power tho, there's always NAWS!! I happen to be selling a nitrous kit if you don't need constant power. It's set up for a 50 shot which should be safe as long as you run the right slightly colder plugs and your car is in decent shape, with good compression, etc. Maybe even retard the timing 1-2 degrees.

I'm not trying to paint a bad cloud for you or anything, but yesterday when I was climbing a hill, my tranny was doing the same thing you described: "though recently the car seems to slip when trying to push up hill after 60 it kind of lets go for a split second loses about 200rpm and then chugs along like it never happened"

Well, yesterday my tranny completely failed on me. If funds are really limited you might should save that mod money for an eventual tranny swap. Just a suggestion.

Also for cheap suspension, a lot of people seem to get along with the adjustable KYB struts and eibach springs pretty well. It's a good setup that still semi adjustable for under $400 if you shop around.
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Old 01-16-2009, 06:36 AM   #15
wisewhiterabbit
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well my trans has been doing that for year and a half. im gonna get the valve body looked at to asses my options thuroughly. and im only "upgrading" what can be transfered over to a 2.5 or h6 the car just hit 180k miles exact yesterday not bad for a 10 year old car thats been beat to hell and only **** out the electronic crap (had the coil pack stop working on #3 cylinder) and regular maintanance although not do to the cars fault but i stripped the tensioner pulley for the timing belt a 3-4 years ago and it finaly slipped the belt and bent two valves now that i think of it though the only huge mechanical fail it ever had was the oem mid pipe crack in two clean pieces on a weld infront of the resonator. then there was the k&n filter that was my fault i over oiled and burned up the maf. right now i dont need it to be fast i just want to realease what power it has left and handle the sharp and sometimes gravily local roads where the speed limit is 55 and you normaly wouldnt do what i do with your moma's civic so to speak
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:26 PM   #16
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wow this is an interestin thread,

im pretty sure the AWD bias is about 60f/40r not 90/10. i dont know where those numbers came from.

as far as shifting, you can manipulate the tranny by how you manipulate the throttle. it takes practice and familiarity nothing else. your L tranny has a 4.11 gear ratio so switching to a manual without an ej257 would give you a lesser 3.60 gear ratio. i would stick with the auto anyhow because the tranny is almost bulletproof.

you dont need coilovers per say, i ran with KYB AGX and eibach springs for a while and i loved them. only switched over because a friend wanted my suspension and so far i liked the strut/spring better.

as far as freeing up power, lightweight pulleys are good, underdrive pulleys create new issues and for an ej22 not really worth it. you can trick your speedo with different size wheels and tires, just know the difference between the speedo readings and your actual speed for safety.

it sounds like your car has been beat to hell, my advice instead of all this stuff is to either start sourcing a swap now or a newer car that will take the abuse better. it wont last much longer from how it sounds like you drive it.
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Old 01-17-2009, 12:06 AM   #17
wisewhiterabbit
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^^ yeah i was saying that when the car only had 120K on it and i wanted to get an 04-05 but it just wont die . that reminds me i get a whirring whining noise fron the drivers foot well and im pretty sure its not the transmission or exaust and it only happens when aproachign 50-60im thinking its the cv axle or a bearing would this be correct or should i ask in the drive line section ? back to your post how did you like the kyb's ? did the knob realy do something like 1 notch felt noticably differently and could you provide a link that would somehow show how it works or some numbers ? and i guess i'll have to ask around for a swap canadate
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Old 01-18-2009, 01:46 AM   #18
ony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wisewhiterabbit View Post
^^ yeah i was saying that when the car only had 120K on it and i wanted to get an 04-05 but it just wont die . that reminds me i get a whirring whining noise fron the drivers foot well and im pretty sure its not the transmission or exaust and it only happens when aproachign 50-60im thinking its the cv axle or a bearing would this be correct or should i ask in the drive line section ? back to your post how did you like the kyb's ? did the knob realy do something like 1 notch felt noticably differently and could you provide a link that would somehow show how it works or some numbers ? and i guess i'll have to ask around for a swap canadate

its the bearing, you have about 10k to get it replaced or your wheel may fall off. the whirring will only get louder. ask me how i know

the kyb's were awesome, felt a difference with every notch on the knob front and rear. going from soft dampening to fully closed down dampening there are a lot if differences in 4 increments or even the 8 for the rears.
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Old 01-18-2009, 01:59 AM   #19
wisewhiterabbit
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lmao its been doing it for around 12-15k miles. the kybs only have four notches up front ? do they make one with more ?
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