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Old 01-17-2009, 12:04 AM   #1
scoobiekid86
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Default How to protect your turbo???

Now I've done some searching online, and I'm trying to figure out what can be done to maintain turbo longevity. Heres what I got and if theres any im missing please add on.

1. Synthetic oils and proper OCI's
2. Air filter that filters dirt & particles well
3. Not pushing turbo to the limits (boost wise)
4. Resonable EGT levels
5. Turbo Timer
6. Oil feed filter screen ??? (pros and cons for this I know)
7. Proper turbo Oil drainage
8. Non excessive crankcase pressure
9. Proper oil pressure (differs between ballbearing & journal)
10. Priming turbo after oil changes?

add on...
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Old 01-17-2009, 12:34 AM   #2
hybrid gti 2
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Check oil regularly between oil changes

Edit

For p18 housing ihi turbo's consider port and polish or larger waste gate door.
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Old 01-17-2009, 12:37 AM   #3
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let the engine warm up properly before driving it after a cold start.
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Old 01-17-2009, 07:10 AM   #4
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You are being way too "it puts the lotion in the basket" about this. Your turbo is DESIGNED with longevity in mind. You babying the crap out of your car will change the longevity of your turbo by about 432 feet vs. dogging the crap out of it. And if your turbo were to explode, a new 39/43 is like $300. And most of your list is 100% useless as K-mart 99cent oil will protect just as good as Mobil1 Delvac at $8/qt when changed regularly and an air filter has about zero to do with the turbo as does a turbo timer.

This may be a new car to you and you might be a little OCD, so here's the deal...we know what we are talking about. I ran my stock turbo from stock pressure of like 13 PSI up to 22 PSI. I put 80K on that turbo and it was cherry when I removed it and sold it to a buddy. Turbos are NOT fragile, worry about your local municipalities recycling methods, the carbon footprint of coal vs. nuclear power generation, or something really important.
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Old 01-17-2009, 08:22 AM   #5
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Don't beat the piss out of it and run crazy boost.

My original turbo has 145k miles on it and no issues at all. I'm never replacing it.
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Old 01-17-2009, 09:15 AM   #6
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If you take it out, don't drop it.


I agree with unabomber. Just use it for what it's meant to be used for.
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Old 01-17-2009, 01:45 PM   #7
scoobiekid86
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well, when you've had two turbos blown for no reason, you can get a little paranoid. I had a fpgreen on the car for 1 year, ran great with no problems and one night decided to let go without any abuse. Just started the car and the turbo died.( huge smoke , -1qt of oil). Recently purchased a gt52 used of a nasioc memeber, upon installation the turbo started smoking and wouldnt build boost correctly. after going throught 2 $1000+ turbos incuding labor, rebuild, downtime, it can get pretty depressing.
As far as oil goes, I'm a firm believer in synthetics. Protection against wear is what counts. If you compare 2 two engines life time, one with regular dino, one with synthetic...and all others factors being constant, the synthetic would most definitely come out more prestine, no? Once wear and tear damage is done, its permanant. hence why i believe running a synthetic oil will protect and increases the life of components in the long run. You're also saying that an air filter is useless, so its ok to remove it and sandblast the crap out your turbine wheel and bearings?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
You are being way too "it puts the lotion in the basket" about this. Your turbo is DESIGNED with longevity in mind. You babying the crap out of your car will change the longevity of your turbo by about 432 feet vs. dogging the crap out of it. And if your turbo were to explode, a new 39/43 is like $300. And most of your list is 100% useless as K-mart 99cent oil will protect just as good as Mobil1 Delvac at $8/qt when changed regularly and an air filter has about zero to do with the turbo as does a turbo timer.

This may be a new car to you and you might be a little OCD, so here's the deal...we know what we are talking about. I ran my stock turbo from stock pressure of like 13 PSI up to 22 PSI. I put 80K on that turbo and it was cherry when I removed it and sold it to a buddy. Turbos are NOT fragile, worry about your local municipalities recycling methods, the carbon footprint of coal vs. nuclear power generation, or something really important.
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Old 01-17-2009, 11:41 PM   #8
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sounds like bad turbo's were purchased (used??? hmmm...)

not much left to say about this thread. I have only had 1 turbo (out of 7) die on me and that was due to my neglect.
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Old 01-17-2009, 11:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobiekid86 View Post
well, when you've had two turbos blown for no reason, you can get a little paranoid. I had a fpgreen on the car for 1 year, ran great with no problems and one night decided to let go without any abuse. Just started the car and the turbo died.( huge smoke , -1qt of oil). Recently purchased a gt52 used of a nasioc memeber, upon installation the turbo started smoking and wouldnt build boost correctly. after going throught 2 $1000+ turbos incuding labor, rebuild, downtime, it can get pretty depressing.
sounds like you're leaving out some info or something was overlooked in the purchase of the used turbos and/or the installation of said turbos.
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Old 01-17-2009, 11:56 PM   #10
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I cuddle and spoon with mine.
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Old 01-18-2009, 12:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobiekid86 View Post
well, when you've had two turbos blown for no reason, you can get a little paranoid. I had a fpgreen on the car for 1 year, ran great with no problems and one night decided to let go without any abuse. Just started the car and the turbo died.( huge smoke , -1qt of oil). Recently purchased a gt52 used of a nasioc memeber, upon installation the turbo started smoking and wouldnt build boost correctly. after going throught 2 $1000+ turbos incuding labor, rebuild, downtime, it can get pretty depressing.
As far as oil goes, I'm a firm believer in synthetics. Protection against wear is what counts. If you compare 2 two engines life time, one with regular dino, one with synthetic...and all others factors being constant, the synthetic would most definitely come out more prestine, no? Once wear and tear damage is done, its permanant. hence why i believe running a synthetic oil will protect and increases the life of components in the long run. You're also saying that an air filter is useless, so its ok to remove it and sandblast the crap out your turbine wheel and bearings?
Theres your problem. I ran my td04 for 17k and beat the piss out of EVERY time I drove it. Its another bugeye in OK now.
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Old 01-18-2009, 02:01 AM   #12
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my turbo ate an EGT probe sometime within the past 10k miles
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:00 AM   #13
RonJitsu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiveoh88 View Post
my turbo ate an EGT probe sometime within the past 10k miles
Ouch. How did that turn out?
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Old 01-18-2009, 12:50 PM   #14
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I ate the ring on a oem gasket Yet the turbo never had a problem. As well looked just fine.
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Old 01-18-2009, 12:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i_c_the_light View Post
I cuddle and spoon with mine.
Funny yeah every night i unbolt mine and bring it inside the house where its nice and warm and out of harms way.
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Old 01-18-2009, 04:19 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonJitsu View Post
Ouch. How did that turn out?

car is still running like a champ, just flashed a stage 2 map a couple weeks ago with boost at 19 psi and no issues flogging it to do some data logs

i guess i got lucky
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Old 01-19-2009, 07:03 AM   #17
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as long as its a oil and water cooled turbo you don't need a turbo timer just wasting gas

the hot fluid percolates around automatically ( so it cools it self down)

"The use of turbo timers to shut the engine off some preset time after the ignition key is removed was needed in the old days. Early turbocharger bearing housings were only cooled by the lubrication oil of a running engine passing by the turbine bearing. If the engine was shut of when the turbine was still very hot excessive heat wick into the turbo bearing and seal area, cooking the oil to black carbon, causing bearing/shaft failure and heavy oil consumption. The newer (for over 15 years now) style turbo housings are water cooled as well as oil cooled. The original EJ20 Subaru turbo motor took advantage of water cooled bearings from the start and have never had this problem due to a unique design feature we will now explain. It is the reason you do not need to purchase a turbo timer.

The Subaru WRX engines have their water catch tank high on the engine above the turbocharger. It is that little can where you check the water level. When the engine is shut off the water continues to circulate via a physical property of water called a thermal siphon. Simply put, hot water rises up to the catch tank, being drawn from the relatively cool cylinder head water jacket up through the turbo housing. This nifty little idea works every time you turn off your engine.

One still needs to take a cool down lap at the track and perhaps should not stop at the top of a mountain pass to enjoy the view if you have been on the boost all the way up, but for the other 99% of the time there is no need to let the engine idle for a minute before shutting off ignition. Even when the engine is off, the cooling water will circulate past the turbine bearing housing."
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Old 01-19-2009, 09:36 AM   #18
Tgui
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i_c_the_light View Post
I cuddle and spoon with mine.
I had to upgrade to one with the 3'' inlet for similar reasons


For reals answer, though banned, listen the the ghost of Una. 50K miles on my vf39 with up to 22 psi once in a while. I performed needed oil and filter changes and it was sold in great condition Not too much thought put into it. I worry more about picking bent IC fins back in place with a tooth pick.

*Tgui knocks on wood with his used FP Green though, so far so good*
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Old 01-19-2009, 07:59 PM   #19
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do you really think Unabomber is banned

Turbos are DESIGNED to spin at hundreds of thousands of rpms driven by incredible heat. Does that sound fragile?

Most small particles that make it to your turbo get disintegrated by the intense heat and pressure, sand doesn't because its friggin sand. My turbo ate all kinds of crap and so has my friend's Supra (our 'race' filters were invisible) without issue.

Just change your oil regularly and maintain your vehicle properly, no more.
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Old 01-22-2009, 03:04 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tgui View Post
I worry more about picking bent IC fins back in place with a tooth pick.
Thats what I should be using!!! I knew a pen was too cumbersome!
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Old 01-22-2009, 04:03 PM   #21
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one of the best things to do for max life with a turbo is proper cool down after driving.its best to let the car cool down for a few min.the harder u drive it the longer it should cool down.other then that..idk.drive it like it was made to be driven.hard and off-road.lol
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Old 01-22-2009, 04:04 PM   #22
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the proper cool down is 1 of the best things to do for the car.other then that just drive it,the car was designed to take a beating.let it cool down for a few min after driving it.the harder u drive the longer it should cool
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Old 01-22-2009, 06:55 PM   #23
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The biggest way you can protect your turbo is by not having any intake leaks and not overboosting it. Proper cooldown isn't as important with a water cooled turbo...
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Old 01-25-2009, 06:17 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguy25 View Post
one of the best things to do for max life with a turbo is proper cool down after driving.its best to let the car cool down for a few min.the harder u drive it the longer it should cool down.other then that..idk.drive it like it was made to be driven.hard and off-road.lol
If your are in a hurry and don't have a TT ,even 30 sec - 1 minute helps.
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Old 01-25-2009, 06:26 PM   #25
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subcompact springfield XD40. . .

anyone comes near my turbo. . i protect the ***** outa my turbo




on a serious note. . let your car idle for 10sec before turning off and dont drive it super hard right before you park.

done.
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