The time has come

[John Drivesabox]

Well, after almost 2 years of other projects, hitting it hard at work and spending enough time with my family, I will be installing a proper computer in my Legacy.

Car is a '98 Subaru Legacy GT with a FAT bolt-on kit with a T04E turbo, yellow injectors and WRX TMIC. Also has a full 3" exhaust with a ERZ custom fitted.

I've been driving this car on an Apexi SAFC II trying to compensate for the huge injectors, power was never my big concern with this car as long as driveability remained OK. But gas mileage, love of a well tuned car (my Forester) and some extra cash have driven me to finish this car right.

I've been following builds like Brydon, Morocco and other E-manage Ultimate users, and thanks to Philsine and others my wiring has been repaired (hacked up SAFC install) and I'll be using the newly popular E-Manage Ultimate wiring method.

Wiring is halfway done, the old O2 sensor will be coming out Monday to make way for the AEM UEGO that the local shops sold me on. Would have gone with Innovate but price and reputation sold me. All the electronic parts are on the way, should hit a dyno by the end of February. Wish me luck, any advice is more than welcome, unless you want to tell me to sell it and buy an Impreza, in which case you can go screw yourself. Old ****ty Legacy's for life!!!!!!!!!!

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[Baja820]

pics please.......

[John Drivesabox]

Here's a few pics of the car, it's old dirty and rugged.

[John Drivesabox]

Got my connectors wired in and everything worked.

Next, I'll be getting some tune up parts (belts, plugs) and going through the hoses. As soon as I have my EMU wiring harness It'll get some connectors and get plugged in.

On another note, while getting back up to speed on my soldering I added 2 DB25 connectors to my ApexI SAFCII so I can connect either that (which I'll use to run to P&L Motorsports for the tune) or the EMU. If anyone's interested in my old SAFC, I'll be selling it on the cheap with connectors and a schematic to how I wired it up. Contact me if you want it.

[John Drivesabox]

Got my EMU, UEGO and harnesses from the fedex guy todya. tomorrow, the old o2 sensor and wiring will start to come out, UEGO will start to go in.

[#522]

Cool, Good luck!

Are you using the AEM UEGO in the Front O2 sensor location and sending the narrowband output for the factory ECU? If so, let us know how that works out. I have my PLX SM-AFR in my rear O2 (my front is a wideband stock, no known way to simulate that correctly) that simulates that sensor and it works just fine.

[rdodger]

Originally Posted by John Drivesabox

Got my EMU, UEGO and harnesses from the fedex guy todya. tomorrow, the old o2 sensor and wiring will start to come out, UEGO will start to go in.

Don't replace the factory narrow band with the simulated signal, trust me it doesn't ever end up running properly
because it doesn't "switch" back and forth like a real narrowband. My afrs keept sweeping strangely and the ecu didn't seem to happy. You can however either weld in an extra bung for the wideband and leave the stock narrowbands in place, or put a complete simulator to replace the back o2 and put the wideband in its place. I think I have an extra o2 simulator if you want one, that way you don't need an extra bung welded in.

Btw the UEGO is a good piece.

[Odyknuck]

What is the back O2 simulater your talking about?

[rdodger]

I have a friend that makes them and I ended up having an extra. Its a little box about 3x2x1 that has the subaru o2 pigtail comming out. So you just put your wideband/bolt where the old o2 was and plug the pigtail into the old harness and ziptie the box to the trans support. I've put on about 500 miles catless with no cel I measured the output once, between the old o2 heater terminals is a big resistor I'm gesssing (hence the reason the box gets warm) and the o2 terminal outputs a fluctuating .1 to .9 volts. Let me see if I can dig it out, pm me if you want it.

[John Drivesabox]

The AEM is being installed in it's own bung about 8 inches in front of the cat at the bottom of the downpipe. The factory o2 sensors are staying where they are. Pretty soon though I'm going to need a new header/up/dp, these ****ty salty roads around here have ruined all the older exhaust under my car.

I was putting the car around and it was running really ****ty, probably due to the fact that I'm using morrocco's map and my wideband hadnt yet been installed. I'll put out how it's running tomorrow after work, I'll pick the car up from the exhaust shop installing the wideband bung and start playing with the map I'm using.

[rdodger]

Originally Posted by John Drivesabox

The AEM is being installed in it's own bung about 8 inches in front of the cat at the bottom of the downpipe. The factory o2 sensors are staying where they are. Pretty soon though I'm going to need a new header/up/dp, these ****ty salty roads around here have ruined all the older exhaust under my car.

I was putting the car around and it was running really ****ty, probably due to the fact that I'm using morrocco's map and my wideband hadnt yet been installed. I'll put out how it's running tomorrow after work, I'll pick the car up from the exhaust shop installing the wideband bung and start playing with the map I'm using.

So you had a bung welded in for the wideband? What did that run you? I just had tons of problems with throwing cat inneffeciency codes so I installed the simulator, but you seem to already have it sorted. Good luck with the emu, same thing I run and I'm very hapy with it.

[Odyknuck]

Originally Posted by John Drivesabox

The AEM is being installed in it's own bung about 8 inches in front of the cat at the bottom of the downpipe. The factory o2 sensors are staying where they are. Pretty soon though I'm going to need a new header/up/dp, these ****ty salty roads around here have ruined all the older exhaust under my car.

I was putting the car around and it was running really ****ty, probably due to the fact that I'm using morrocco's map and my wideband hadnt yet been installed. I'll put out how it's running tomorrow after work, I'll pick the car up from the exhaust shop installing the wideband bung and start playing with the map I'm using.

Wrong post

[Odyknuck]

Originally Posted by rdodger

I have a friend that makes them and I ended up having an extra. Its a little box about 3x2x1 that has the subaru o2 pigtail comming out. So you just put your wideband/bolt where the old o2 was and plug the pigtail into the old harness and ziptie the box to the trans support. I've put on about 500 miles catless with no cel I measured the output once, between the old o2 heater terminals is a big resistor I'm gesssing (hence the reason the box gets warm) and the o2 terminal outputs a fluctuating .1 to .9 volts. Let me see if I can dig it out, pm me if you want it.

I would be interested in it.
Steve
216-695-0733

[John Drivesabox]

Well, the AEM logs and reads and everything like it should. Now on to the tuning.

I'd like to give this auto-tune stuff a try, I want to think I figured it out but the A/F is nowhere near where it should be, at idle or under acceleration. The A/F target map should be set up to run off the I/J adjustment map 1, correct?

Does anyone have a good way to set up the autotune for a setup like mine (MAF, 550 injectors, etc)

[John Drivesabox]

On a seperate note, the throttle sensor was reading zero at all positions until I manually reset it, weird.

[rdodger]

Originally Posted by John Drivesabox

Well, the AEM logs and reads and everything like it should. Now on to the tuning.

I'd like to give this auto-tune stuff a try, I want to think I figured it out but the A/F is nowhere near where it should be, at idle or under acceleration. The A/F target map should be set up to run off the I/J adjustment map 1, correct?

Does anyone have a good way to set up the autotune for a setup like mine (MAF, 550 injectors, etc)

The only way is to manually change each box until the afrs line up properly. The only real way to do it is to use a logger to read the fuel trims and change them in the corresponding part of the map so they are within 5% across the entire closed loop area. The auto tuning has to be configured so it only functions when the car is in open loop, aka wot or above 4k rpms. You cannot have auto tune on anywhere within closed loop or it will fight the stock ecu for control. I have a trigger that automatically triggers open loop whenever I get above 0psi boost which means I have less closed loop to tune and more control over my afrs in partial throttle boost.

[John Drivesabox]

Also, when I'm cruising at a given speed, with say, 3-8% throttle, my AFR dips below 10/1 and the car will only accelerate once boost gets above zero. Basically, at low throttle and zero boost, the AFR's are pig rich and the car runs terrible until I get near boost, any ideas?

[John Drivesabox]

Going to see Jorge at P&L tomorrow morning, wish me luck.

On another note, in order to make things as easy on Jorge as possible (and hopefully save me a few minutes tuning) I custom built a little stand for my laptop. It sticks in the open glovebox and has little tabs to hold the laptop in place and at a good angle for the driver. It actually came out really cool and I was pretty pleased with the product for an hours worth of my work. I'll put a pic up tomorrow.

Lets pray I can get up to about 15lbs and a good drivable tune.

[John Drivesabox]

Well that didn't go quite as planned. I'll either be parting this car out or selling it whole, P&L thinks #2 or 4 rings may be washed and has developed a slap, not to mention a slew of charge leaks.

If I can get $4500 for the whole car as is including EMU and laptop I'll be happy. If no one offers that and I can guarantee at least $3500 in major parts I'll be happy too. Hate to air my dirty laundry like this but this engine will have to be pulled sooner or later.

UPDATE
Well, I finally did a compression check and a leakdown test. All were right around 125, there is a slight bit of leakdown in #2, but I've been driving the car on the hiway tune I got from P&L until I can get all the charge leaks fixed and it's been much better than it was on the old computer.

I'll leave this motor in there for the time being and keep playing with the pre-Maps once the boost leaks and downpipe are fixed, I should be okay.