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Old 02-08-2009, 12:11 AM   #1
68Cadillac
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Default ARP (100-7716) 3 inch wheel stud install on WRX Rear Axles

I've searched long and hard to find a write up on how to install the long ARP studs on the rear of a WRX to no avail. I finally succeeded with the help of my friend, NOSMO. We accomplished it without removing my rear axles, parking brake, or repacking my bearings. Here's how we installed ARP's (PN 100-7716) 3 inch (76.2mm) long wheel studs in to the rear of my 2004 WRX Wagon, the easy way. YMMV.



1. Jack up the Scoob.
2. Place stands under reinforced points.
3. Lower Scoob to the stands. Remove jack.
4. Remove a rear wheel. 19mm - 5 lugs.

5. Disconnect the rear brake caliper bracket with the caliper still attached to it. 14mm - 2 bolts.

6. Secure the caliper to something so it doesn't hang, full weight, on the brake line. Zip ties FTW.

7. Spray some PB Blaster in the two holes on the rotor to help it release from the hub. Wait 5 minutes, then attempt rotor removal.

8. If necessary, use a bolt to persuade the rotor off the hub.

9. Remove the rotor and place it aside. Try not to get the braking surface greasy/dirty (e.g. finger grease).

10. Remove the 6mm hex head bolts holding the Anti-Lock Braking System Reluctor Ring to the hub. Count 4 bolts.

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Last edited by 68Cadillac; 02-08-2009 at 01:27 AM.
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Old 02-08-2009, 12:12 AM   #2
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11. Remove and gently place aside the Anti-Lock Braking System Magnetic Sensor. Remember that hole the sensor was in? That's where the ARP studs are going to be installed through.





12. With the Reluctor Ring out of harms way PERSUADE the OEM studs to leave. They'll realize eventually that they're no longer wanted.

13. Grind the ARP stud flange until it fits through the Anti-Lock Braking System Magnetic Sensor hole. About .5 mm total radius or 1 mm diameter. Grind as little as possible until it just barely fits though.







14. Insert the ground down flange ARP stud through the Anti-Lock Braking System Magnetic Sensor hole and into an empty hub bolt hole.

Last edited by 68Cadillac; 02-08-2009 at 03:20 AM.
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:27 AM   #3
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15. With a serious stack of washers or a 1/2 inch drive socket you don't want (I used 13/16's) and an open ended lug, seat the new stud on the hub. Air power helps.





16. Repeat steps 13, 14 and, 15 four more times.
17. Reinstall Anti-Lock Braking System Magnetic Sensor
18. Reinstall Anti-Lock Braking System Reluctor Ring
19. Reinstall Brake Rotor
20. Reinstall Brake Caliper
21. Reinstall Wheel.
22. Repeat steps 4 though 21 for the other side.

Last edited by 68Cadillac; 02-08-2009 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:28 AM   #4
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23. Even after step 15 the studs will not be fully seated. Torque your lugs down to 70 ft.lbs for every 2 miles driven. NO REALLY! These studs will need to be re-torqued several times until they're fully seated on the hub. Three times if you're lucky. Five times if you want to be certain. LOOSE LUGS = MANGLED WHEELS.
24. Sell OEM studs on NASIOC.
25. Ride away clean.




Last edited by 68Cadillac; 02-08-2009 at 02:39 AM.
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:11 AM   #5
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Follow up:
2010 - 02 - 04 (one year later): The studs perform like champs. No seating issues. No looseness. No bunged up threads. This after over 2 dozen wheel on/offs, 60+ hard autocross runs and daily driven. I love the ease the extra long studs give me to get the wheels on and off. The "lug starter" section also prevents cross threading. One year later, I would still recommend this modification.

2012 - 11 - 09 (3 years 9 months later)I still run the same modified studs in the rear of the wagon. Never had an issue. Daily driven. 4 track days. 70+ autocrosses. 200+ wheel remove/install/torques.

2013 - 11 - 04 (4 years 9 months later)Same studs. No problems.

Last edited by 68Cadillac; 11-05-2013 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:11 AM   #6
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Reserved 002

Last edited by 68Cadillac; 02-08-2009 at 02:40 AM.
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Old 02-08-2009, 03:04 AM   #7
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glad i could lend a hand
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Old 02-08-2009, 08:38 AM   #8
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Good writeup. I was installing slightly longer than stock lugs (+5 mm) so I was able to fit them between the hub and knuckle. I was a tight fit but I was able to get them in.

When removing the studs with a hammer, thread a nut onto the stud so you don't damage the threads. When I hit them directly with a hammer, I found that the end deformed and I was no longer able to thread a lug.
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Old 02-08-2009, 09:20 AM   #9
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what are 3" long wheel studs needed for? just to run big wheel spacers?
just curious...
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:16 PM   #10
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Good job man.

Just wondering if you were at all concerned with warping the hub by removing the studs with a hammer without a support ?

If I remember correctly the rears were alu on the set I did so I wouldn't want to take that risk. Yours dont look so however..are they ?
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Old 02-08-2009, 03:12 PM   #11
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good writeup looks clean might have to do this with mine dont like how short they are right now
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Old 02-08-2009, 08:31 PM   #12
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Your not trying to take the lugs out with one whack, rather just some easy taps and they will loosen right up. You have to remember that this mod was done in Vegas. No water, no salt. (rust cures in Las Vegas) Now if your car is in a wet area and the metals are so corroded they become one, you may want to rethink how you remove the studs. If you plan on reusing the stud then, yes, a nut on top will keep from deforming the threads. <<-- although to deform the threads would take way more than a 16oz claw hammer and some serious pounding.
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Old 02-08-2009, 10:14 PM   #13
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Hats off to you sir. I have heard of people drilling out the ABS sensor hole to fit the ARPs through...but the way you did it is much smarter.

I did it the long expensive way...I bought an extra set of rear spindles and reassembled them with the ARPs. I took the opportunity to also install a set of SuperPro trailing arm bushings as well.

I wish I was a little better at thinking outside of the box.
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Old 02-08-2009, 11:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djerickd View Post
what are 3" long wheel studs needed for? just to run big wheel spacers?
just curious...
me too

seems like a waste of time to me unless ya gonna track the car a LOT and I see ohlins struts and stock brakes
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
seems like a waste of time to me unless ya gonna track the car a LOT and I see ohlins struts and stock brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by djerickd View Post
what are 3" long wheel studs needed for? just to run big wheel spacers?
I autocross a lot. For every event I change to my race wheels and then back to my dailys after. That's 30 wheels changes I did just last year and my OEM studs were getting chewed up. Two had been cross threaded. I got the ARP's because of the tip without threads that helps prevent cross threading. If they offered a shorter length I would have got those instead. ARP only offers the one length and I trust ARP's products.
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:55 AM   #16
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ah ha, ya ARP should offer a 2 inch version, those are so erect
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djerickd View Post
ah ha, ya ARP should offer a 2 inch version, those are so erect
I have NISMO 50mm studs on the front. They have been great.

Maybe I'll do the rears now. That install didn't seem too bad.
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:18 AM   #18
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Do you think grinding the head of the studs effects its integrity any?
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:26 AM   #19
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Shouldn't be a problem unless you get it very hot. Keep it cool and the stud will be fine. Go slow, don't push (pushing hard on a grinder just destroys the wheel). Grinding something nicely tends to be very gentle on the base material. Fewer stresses than turning it on a lathe or something.
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Old 02-17-2009, 01:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
Do you think grinding the head of the studs effects its integrity any?
If you're talking about heat cycling or varying tempatures accross the bolt because of the grinding: No. These bolts will see far greater tempature varitions as a result of two back to back hard braking events (75>10>75>10 mph) than you'd get grinding the bolt.

If you're talking about the head having less material I'd have to say yes. How much less: I don't know i've have to guess: purple or maybe violet. I'm not concerned about it because it's on the rear. Now if I did it to the bolts for the front that might give me pause because the fronts see more intense forces than the rears ever will. Fronts take 85-90% of the braking and cornering forces and 30% of the acceleration?
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Old 11-27-2009, 05:38 PM   #21
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Nice write up. I live the last two steps. haha
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:24 PM   #22
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your using your wheel lock to seat the stud? and air on the wheel lock?
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:24 PM   #23
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One year update posted. See post #5.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:55 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
11. Remove and gently place aside the Anti-Lock Braking System Magnetic Sensor. Remember that hole the sensor was in? That's where the ARP studs are going to be installed through.





12. With the Reluctor Ring out of harms way PERSUADE the OEM studs to leave. They'll realize eventually that they're no longer wanted.

13. Grind the ARP stud flange until it fits through the Anti-Lock Braking System Magnetic Sensor hole. About .5 mm total radius or 1 mm diameter. Grind as little as possible until it just barely fits though.







14. Insert the ground down flange ARP stud through the Anti-Lock Braking System Magnetic Sensor hole and into an empty hub bolt hole.
this may be a dumb question but how did you get the piece that is holding the studs to turn when putting in the new studs???
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:22 AM   #25
68Cadillac
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The hub?

Get your jack stands out; both rear wheels need to be off the ground. Remember you have a Limited Slip Differential.

Last edited by 68Cadillac; 11-10-2012 at 11:38 AM.
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