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Old 11-09-2012, 08:24 AM   #26
J3FF.BROWN
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THANK YOU VERY MUCH. It was that obvious of a fix haha I was getting frustrated after a long day at work. I'm going to retry this again today. Thankssss
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:20 AM   #27
J3FF.BROWN
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today after 6 hours of pain and suffering i finally switched out all my studs using your method! thanks again. now i just have to wait for the studs to settle in good. i have already had them loosen up on me twice
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:35 AM   #28
68Cadillac
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Glad it worked out for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J3FF.BROWN View Post
now i just have to wait for the studs to settle in good. i have already had them loosen up on me twice
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
23. Even after step 15 the studs will not be fully seated. Torque your lugs down to 70 ft.lbs for every 2 miles driven. NO REALLY! These studs will need to be re-torqued several times until they're fully seated on the hub. Three times if you're lucky. Five times if you want to be certain.
I bolded step 23 for a reason. Enjoy your fancy studs.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:46 PM   #29
vision.dynamix
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I would recommend not using your lug nuts to pull the studs through. Use either a M12x1.25 Class 10.9 nut, or other lug nuts. Wouldnt want to damage a lug nut and have t buy another set.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:59 PM   #30
shabakababa
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Great write up and worked exactly how you said. The diameter of the abs sensor plug was 17.7 and the head of the arp stud is 18.6 so wasn’t much to shave off. fit right through the abs hole and was installed in no time! level of Difficulty 6 and time wasted including grinding 2 hours.
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:55 AM   #31
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UPDATE: for future generations

50mm(2 inch) studs

and maybe even little longer ones don't require grinding.
You need to take off the parking brake assembly and there is enough space to slide them in from the back(not trough the abs sensor hole)

Takes much less time than grinding and it's overall safer/better method.

Look for Ichiba studs. Dirt cheap and proven quality. They have few different sizes too.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:29 PM   #32
piripi
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Can you fit 10mm spacer with the 2 inch studs?
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:34 AM   #33
manys
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Im running 12mm spacers with 2 inch studs.

You can very safely run 15mm with those
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:29 PM   #34
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Great how-to! I have a question and a comment (not for the OP):
Why use NISMO studs that cost twice what ARP cost?
Google "Ichiba studs quality"

I was going to skip better quality studs, but now I want to tackle it!
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:22 PM   #35
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Just a PSA for 2015 owners... This does not work with the new car. ABS sensor is totally different. I guess I should have taken some pics, but I forgot. I did not remove the parking brake assemble so maybe there is an option there, but I don't think so. YMMV.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:49 PM   #36
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68Cadillac, I just found this write up and will be using this to do my install this weekend, thanks for posting this!!
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:17 PM   #37
vision.dynamix
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On 2015s you have bolt in hub/bearing packages so just remove the hub from the car.
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Old 12-05-2015, 06:12 PM   #38
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Isn't that a big job?
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Old 12-05-2015, 06:36 PM   #39
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Not at all. Remove the caliper and rotor. Remove the axle nut. Unbolt the hub.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:49 PM   #40
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I thought pressing in a new bearing was necessary upon reassembly when you do that?
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:46 PM   #41
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No pressing required for bearings on the newer cars. Hub+bearing are together and come out as one piece. Not sure if the parking brake stuff is in the way and also needs to come off though.

Also on the older bearings be very careful hammering out the stock lugs. I broke a tone ring once doing that.
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Old 12-17-2015, 10:54 PM   #42
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Cool, thanks!
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Old 12-20-2015, 03:04 PM   #43
vision.dynamix
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Parking brake does not have to be touched to remove the rear hubs on a car with bolt in bearings. Depending on the tools you have, pulling the axle out of the hub first may make it easier for you to access the bolts holding in the hub, though.
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