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Old 10-17-2012, 09:21 AM   #3676
Sideshowbob
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Yah for more armor!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow5oh View Post
Have you considered internal bead locks? They work great and are much cheaper than swapping wheels.
Not a bad idea, but I am not all that invested in this setup, I think I am gonna run them until they are dead then move on to 36 or 37 x 12.5 on a narrower wheel. Also, that may not even solve the problem as I was at 7 psi and still not seeing as much flex as I wanted. These were stop gap craigslist tires.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow5oh View Post
Also, I'll finally be ordering a winch here soon enough. Looking to go with a Warn M8000. Won't need it until the end of next month so I'm going to wait a little bit and see if I can find one on sale since they've been as much as $100 off on Amazon before.
Locally there are a bunch on winches on CL, check around.
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:27 PM   #3677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob View Post
Yah for more armor!!!

Not a bad idea, but I am not all that invested in this setup, I think I am gonna run them until they are dead then move on to 36 or 37 x 12.5 on a narrower wheel. Also, that may not even solve the problem as I was at 7 psi and still not seeing as much flex as I wanted. These were stop gap craigslist tires.
That's what I'll be doing next. Move up to 37x12.50 tires when I finally get a solid axle in and I'll also go with 8" wide wheels along with a set of Inner Air Locks. $650 for a set of 5 dual beadlocks is hard to beat IMO.


Locally there are a bunch on winches on CL, check around.[/quote]

Forgot all about craigslist, thanks!
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:30 PM   #3678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob View Post
Damn, them some bling ass wheels for a truck.
Mine-
Looks perfect.
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:44 AM   #3679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitford View Post
Looks perfect.
Thanks, getting there. Corners next, then need to armor up my HPD30. After that the list is finally getting a bit shorter. I am sure something will break though. BTW that's with 8psi in the tires. They DON'T flex.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow5oh View Post
That's what I'll be doing next. Move up to 37x12.50 tires when I finally get a solid axle in and I'll also go with 8" wide wheels along with a set of Inner Air Locks. $650 for a set of 5 dual beadlocks is hard to beat IMO.
They are, and they seem to have many advantages, like being essentially invisible from the outside and road legality is less of a concern.


Here is a Runner for you to aim at

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Old 10-18-2012, 10:50 AM   #3680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow5oh View Post
Along with a set of Inner Air Locks. $650 for a set of 5 dual beadlocks is hard to beat IMO.
Heh. Enjoy the $200 a tire for installation, if you can even find a place to do it.

And they CAN NOT be installed yourself, or with 5 people and tire spoons, or a tire mounting machine... trust me... avoid them at all costs.

You want to get Hutchinson style beadlocks, 1000x better, stronger, self installable, invisible, and DOT legal. http://www.hutchinsoninc.com/CMS/ind...itary-Beadlock

(Obviously you will need to shop around and multiple companies make this style now)

By the time you buy wheels inner air locks and have them installed you will save $600-$800 and be a LOT more reliable by going with Huntchinsons.


The other thing to look at is balancing... www.centramatic.com is a must.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:25 PM   #3681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob View Post
Thanks, getting there. Corners next, then need to armor up my HPD30. After that the list is finally getting a bit shorter. I am sure something will break though. BTW that's with 8psi in the tires. They DON'T flex.
I didn't realize you were still on a D30 axle, aren't you pushing your luck with 35s on that axle? Before I found my 4Runner I was set on getting a Cherokee and during my research I remember reading about the weaknesses of that axle since they use the same one.

Quote:
They are, and they seem to have many advantages, like being essentially invisible from the outside and road legality is less of a concern.


Here is a Runner for you to aim at

GOPR0012 001 - YouTube
I love the 3rd gen 4Runners, they look even better with big pitbull rockers underneath too! Wish I could have found one in my price range that wasn't beat to hell.




Quote:
Originally Posted by The Phenx View Post
Heh. Enjoy the $200 a tire for installation, if you can even find a place to do it.

And they CAN NOT be installed yourself, or with 5 people and tire spoons, or a tire mounting machine... trust me... avoid them at all costs.

You want to get Hutchinson style beadlocks, 1000x better, stronger, self installable, invisible, and DOT legal. http://www.hutchinsoninc.com/CMS/ind...itary-Beadlock

(Obviously you will need to shop around and multiple companies make this style now)

By the time you buy wheels inner air locks and have them installed you will save $600-$800 and be a LOT more reliable by going with Huntchinsons.


The other thing to look at is balancing... www.centramatic.com is a must.


Looks to be the same idea except you have to buy wheels with them.

Are we talking about the same thing?

http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/foru...p?topic=1750.0

And I've been wanting to get a set of the centramatics for a while now. I love the idea of never having to take it in to get balanced. Perhaps when I get new wheels/tires.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:29 PM   #3682
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I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a rubbicon, not sure to go with MW3 or just basic Rubicon. I'm waiting for more news on special editions, including the 10th anniversary Rubicon. What I can't stand is how Jeep holds information!
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:35 PM   #3683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow5oh View Post
I didn't realize you were still on a D30 axle, aren't you pushing your luck with 35s on that axle? Before I found my 4Runner I was set on getting a Cherokee and during my research I remember reading about the weaknesses of that axle since they use the same one.
Yes, I am, the High Pinion version (YJ/Cherocar/etc) which has a large ring and pinion and also keeps the driveshaft up a bit higher. I have seen so much different information on this, for now I am just going to armor it up and leave my axles (non-chromo's) as the weak spot so that I hopefully dont' grenade the R&P. I have everything I need on board to swap the axles and I have two spare sets which I got for short $$. The only axle other than a D60 that I would jump to up front is a Wagoneer or Ford Dana 44, which has many of the same weaknesses as the HPD30.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MidnightSti05 View Post
I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a rubbicon, not sure to go with MW3 or just basic Rubicon. I'm waiting for more news on special editions, including the 10th anniversary Rubicon. What I can't stand is how Jeep holds information!
No offense to current owners, but why the f would you spend the extra coin on the MW3? To me it makes no sense, Wranglers are arguably the most customize-able vehicles in existence, why not put the difference aside and spend it later on making it your own?
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:52 PM   #3684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob View Post
No offense to current owners, but why the f would you spend the extra coin on the MW3? To me it makes no sense, Wranglers are arguably the most customize-able vehicles in existence, why not put the difference aside and spend it later on making it your own?
I think mainly because it's a hassle to deal with and it's about the same money to do the small changes as it is to get the 'special edition'.

IIRC...

Rubicon 36k, MW3 40k (mw3 at a discount since dealers want to move them)
Major differences:
Bumpers, Hood, Rock Rails, Wheels, tail-covers. (these pretty much fill the gap$$$wise) So I think it's about break-even...

I don't know jeep stuff, so I could be totally wrong still sitting on the fence about the whole thing.
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:46 PM   #3685
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$4k is a LOT of money in aftermarket bumpers and rockers. The hood to me is a non-factor. If you still want the hood it would be around $1,200 ($800 from AEV plus shipping and paint, which I went high on). $2,800 is still a LOT of money that you can spend at your leisure. Interesting on the MW3 discounts though. The Rubicon isn't as discounted?

Also, you get to pick your aftermarket stuff (bumpers) and your jeep isn't just another MW3.


Just some examples-
http://www.atozfabrication.com/store...cat=258&page=1

http://shop.poisonspyder.com/Jeep-JK...8-410-alum.htm

http://shop.poisonspyder.com/Jeep-Wr.../17-16-020.htm

http://shop.poisonspyder.com/JK-Rock.../17-61-020.htm



It's definitely an interesting conundrum.
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:52 PM   #3686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob View Post
. The Rubicon isn't as discounted?
Good info. Thanks. I have a lot of research to do. I've had a cherokee classic and a grand cherokee but never a wrangler.

The Rubicon would be a 2013, the MW3 is a left over 2012. As far as I know, there are no more MW3s being built so dealers are trying to unload the left-over MW3 jeeps. Which is why I think there are deals on MW3s, but I'm sure there are deals on Rubicons. I think the Rubicon is the way to go, the MW3 gets hated on left and right in the wrangler forums
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:58 PM   #3687
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Well that wouldn't concern me so much as if it's worth it to you..... part of what I love about my Wrangler is that nobody has the exact combo of parts I do.
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:25 PM   #3688
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Trying to understand what is stopping the steering and need some newb help.

I am installing a WJ pitman arm on a TJ to help with some clearances. The slots where pitman arm attaches to the steering box are clocked differently, so when I try to use the WJ pitman arm on the box, and the steering is centered turn to turn, the pitman arm is too far to the drivers side.

Arm v Arm-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...0F694D51C7.jpg

Centered Shot 1-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...0F6FB656E6.jpg

Centered Shot 2-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...0F760771A4.jpg


I need the pitman arm facing basically front to rear parallel with the frame. Is the box itself stopping this or is it the steering column?

I was thinking I could-
Center wheel in Jeep lock to lock
Remove Steering Box then
Orient pitman arm so that it's roughly parallel but in the center of it's travel then
Reattach to steering linkage with wheel in Jeep centered

Will this work or is the lock inside the steering box and I am stuck using TJ pitman arm? Or I have to open up the Steering box if I want to change?
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:45 PM   #3689
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'97 xj, manual, 8.8 in the rear (soon to be locked), 6.5 inch long arm bds lift, 35's, 1 ton steering, re geared to 4.56.


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Old 10-22-2012, 10:24 AM   #3690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow5oh View Post


Looks to be the same idea except you have to buy wheels with them.

Are we talking about the same thing?

http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/foru...p?topic=1750.0

And I've been wanting to get a set of the centramatics for a while now. I love the idea of never having to take it in to get balanced. Perhaps when I get new wheels/tires.
Nope totally different. ANd yes we are talking about the same thing. Inner Air Lock internal beadlocks.

Inner Air Locks use a motorcycle inner tube and a kevlar cover that you have to slip inbetween the tire and wheel bead during installation, somehow magically get it flat, without seeing it and inflate. It has to be done by hand with tire spoons. You have to drill extra holes in your wheels for the inflators for the tube.

Hutchinson uses a 2 piece wheel and a rubber/vinyl/kevlar solid ring thats about an inch thick, and cut to be the same exact size of the space between your inner and outer bead when the tire is mounted. Nothing to pop. No drilling wheels. Seperate halves of wheel with impact.... lay tire on... slide ring on... bolt other piece of wheel on inflate and balance. The end. 10 minutes vs 2 hours per wheel.

I have personally fought with an inner air lock for 4 hours on one wheel alone, before I took them, re-boxed them and vowed to never see them again. And no installer error, the one shop in the area who will still do them charges 200 per tire.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:28 AM   #3691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conifersubaru View Post
'97 xj, manual, 8.8 in the rear (soon to be locked), 6.5 inch long arm bds lift, 35's, 1 ton steering, re geared to 4.56.

Sweet XJ, you still on the HP D30 up front?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob View Post
Trying to understand what is stopping the steering and need some newb help.
Ended up using hacksaw and triangle file to remove clocking indexes on the WJ Pitman arm, worked great.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:04 AM   #3692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob View Post
Trying to understand what is stopping the steering and need some newb help.

I am installing a WJ pitman arm on a TJ to help with some clearances. The slots where pitman arm attaches to the steering box are clocked differently, so when I try to use the WJ pitman arm on the box, and the steering is centered turn to turn, the pitman arm is too far to the drivers side.

Arm v Arm-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...0F694D51C7.jpg

Centered Shot 1-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...0F6FB656E6.jpg

Centered Shot 2-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...0F760771A4.jpg


I need the pitman arm facing basically front to rear parallel with the frame. Is the box itself stopping this or is it the steering column?

I was thinking I could-
Center wheel in Jeep lock to lock
Remove Steering Box then
Orient pitman arm so that it's roughly parallel but in the center of it's travel then
Reattach to steering linkage with wheel in Jeep centered

Will this work or is the lock inside the steering box and I am stuck using TJ pitman arm? Or I have to open up the Steering box if I want to change?

1st off the length is going to make you twitchy as hell on the highway. It will speed up your turning ratio, which on a short wheel base lifted vehicle is a REALLY bad idea.

2nd the "lock to lock" is in the box not the steering wheel. If you disconnect the steering shaft the wheel will spin for ever.

You do not have to use a tj steering arm, but a wj is the wrong choice. If I remember correctly an xj or zj arm will be the correct length with the correct keyway orientation, and be approx a 4" drop over a standard tj arm.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:05 AM   #3693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob View Post
Ended up using hacksaw and triangle file to remove clocking indexes on the WJ Pitman arm, worked great.

I still would not use that arm, due to the length alone.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:23 AM   #3694
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Seems to work fine, it's a bit quicker but not ridiculous at all. I don't need a drop, I need more clearance. From what I gathered on forums this arm or the Wagoneer arm aren't uncommon at all.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:55 AM   #3695
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[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall187.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall186.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall183.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall178.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall666.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall663.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall657.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall656.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:58 AM   #3696
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Pic fail?
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:58 AM   #3697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianglawson View Post
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall187.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall186.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall183.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall178.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall666.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall663.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall657.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/brianglawson/****ingfall656.jpg[/IMG]
Swear filter fail.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:46 PM   #3698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob View Post
Seems to work fine, it's a bit quicker but not ridiculous at all. I don't need a drop, I need more clearance. From what I gathered on forums this arm or the Wagoneer arm aren't uncommon at all.
Its only at high speed under panic that its an issue.

Also offroad with super large tires it puts a lil extra strain on the box & gears... less mechanical leverage and all that.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:58 PM   #3699
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I'll give it a check when I leave work today, I appreciate the heads up.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:54 AM   #3700
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I got my rear bumper in yesterday and when I go to install it I find out the factory tire carriers lower bracket is keeping me from installing the damn thing. I triple checked the website before ordering to make sure it didn't say it will only work on models with the spare under the truck. I already e-mailed them about it but it will probably be easier and quicker to have it modified.


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