The Jeep and Off-Road Thread

[Chunks]

So, I am moving to AZ for about 6 months and I'm taking my cherokee there. It's about a 1,600 mile trip.

I have an '01 with about 95k on it.

Mechanically it is fine, but in hot weather it will misfire if I turn the engine on after it has been running for a bit.

I was thinking about maybe a new t-stat and a coolant flush? Also, would it be a good time to replace the trans fluid as well as f/r diff fluid? I bought it with 45k on the clock and haven't done so yet.

What else should I ask the mechanic to look for? I don't want any break downs on the way there.

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[Ghosthound]

Finally got my skids mounted!

[PGT]

Originally Posted by Chunks

So, I am moving to AZ for about 6 months and I'm taking my cherokee there. It's about a 1,600 mile trip.

I have an '01 with about 95k on it.

Mechanically it is fine, but in hot weather it will misfire if I turn the engine on after it has been running for a bit.

I was thinking about maybe a new t-stat and a coolant flush? Also, would it be a good time to replace the trans fluid as well as f/r diff fluid? I bought it with 45k on the clock and haven't done so yet.

What else should I ask the mechanic to look for? I don't want any break downs on the way there.

The 01 had a heat soak issue with the plugs. There was a TSB that added heat shields to them. I had that issue and it would keep the Jeep from starting when hot out and the engine was warmed up and then shut off. That's the first thing if do because its a $20 fix.

[Hypernoodle]

Went wheeling at the quarry by Raleigh today. On my last hillclimb of the day, my front end went.

The t-case is good, since the front driveshaft still turns, and the LSD is most likely still good because it still understeers-and-catches around curves when I engage the split shaft collar on my D30.

I'll find out when I crack the diff cover. I'm expecting a busted pinion and/or ring gear. FML

[Chunks]

Originally Posted by PGT

The 01 had a heat soak issue with the plugs. There was a TSB that added heat shields to them. I had that issue and it would keep the Jeep from starting when hot out and the engine was warmed up and then shut off. That's the first thing if do because its a $20 fix.

I already have the heat shields.

[The Phenx]

Originally Posted by Chunks

I already have the heat shields.

The single best 4 things you can do for a 4.0. heat soak power and MPG.

#1 Dump the stock ignition and replace it with a MSD brain & coil & you must get the MSD RF blocker capactor or you will burn out the unit in 4 months. This will net you approx 3 MPG, 15 hp and solve most starting and idling issues especially on the trail. You must use plain ole copper plugs and overgap them by ..010 so your total gap should be .045. ~ $300

#2 Put in a high flow cat & good BOSCH o2 sensors... Nuff said... Factory ones suck and make you run really rich. Go for the generic Jegs/Summit high flow cat. ~ $160 - $250

#3 Wrap the top foot of your exhaust manifold... or conversely intake... where they cross over does nothing but get you a really warm intake air charge... which as we know are bad, makes bad power, and causes a lot of heat buildup in the engine. Must use silicone spray. ~ $60 and a day installing.

#4 Use water wetter and put in a electric fan. (IE get the engine driven fan outta there) ~$150

On my '94 yj with 37's and 700 pounds of armor I get 16-17 mpg itll idle down to 150 rpm on the trail, never overheats ... just from those 4 tweaks and life is happy.

[The Phenx]

Originally Posted by Hypernoodle

Went wheeling at the quarry by Raleigh today. On my last hillclimb of the day, my front end went.

The t-case is good, since the front driveshaft still turns, and the LSD is most likely still good because it still understeers-and-catches around curves when I engage the split shaft collar on my D30.

I'll find out when I crack the diff cover. I'm expecting a busted pinion and/or ring gear. FML

Check your axle u-joints.. thats usually the failure point.

[Hypernoodle]

Originally Posted by The Phenx

Check your axle u-joints.. thats usually the failure point.

They're fine. I checked them right off the bat.

The fact that when I pull the posi-lok and engage the split shaft, it understeers-and catches still, means that the LSD is working, and both wheels are connected. By deduction, the axle shafts and u-joints are still connected. The LSD just isn't getting turned by the front driveshaft.

[Chunks]

Originally Posted by The Phenx

The single best 4 things you can do for a 4.0. heat soak power and MPG.

#1 Dump the stock ignition and replace it with a MSD brain & coil & you must get the MSD RF blocker capactor or you will burn out the unit in 4 months. This will net you approx 3 MPG, 15 hp and solve most starting and idling issues especially on the trail. You must use plain ole copper plugs and overgap them by ..010 so your total gap should be .045. ~ $300

#2 Put in a high flow cat & good BOSCH o2 sensors... Nuff said... Factory ones suck and make you run really rich. Go for the generic Jegs/Summit high flow cat. ~ $160 - $250

#3 Wrap the top foot of your exhaust manifold... or conversely intake... where they cross over does nothing but get you a really warm intake air charge... which as we know are bad, makes bad power, and causes a lot of heat buildup in the engine. Must use silicone spray. ~ $60 and a day installing.

#4 Use water wetter and put in a electric fan. (IE get the engine driven fan outta there) ~$150

On my '94 yj with 37's and 700 pounds of armor I get 16-17 mpg itll idle down to 150 rpm on the trail, never overheats ... just from those 4 tweaks and life is happy.

Ooh, nice. Ill definitely do the wrap before I go, ill have to worry about the other stuff later. Money-wise that doesn't sound so bad. Wish I didn't have to replace my coils a few years ago.... thanks!

[PARANOID56]

Originally Posted by The Phenx

The single best 4 things you can do for a 4.0. heat soak power and MPG.

#1 Dump the stock ignition and replace it with a MSD brain & coil & you must get the MSD RF blocker capactor or you will burn out the unit in 4 months. This will net you approx 3 MPG, 15 hp and solve most starting and idling issues especially on the trail. You must use plain ole copper plugs and overgap them by ..010 so your total gap should be .045. ~ $300

this is a good one for most trucks. and nice that you mention the RF blocker capacitor. I ran one on my toyota before i knew about that capacitor and my msd went up in smoke in the middle of death valley (luckily kept the spare with me) after installing that never an issue. so anytime i use an MSD that little 30 buck piece is very worth it.

[The Phenx]

Originally Posted by PARANOID56

this is a good one for most trucks. and nice that you mention the RF blocker capacitor. I ran one on my toyota before i knew about that capacitor and my msd went up in smoke in the middle of death valley (luckily kept the spare with me) after installing that never an issue. so anytime i use an MSD that little 30 buck piece is very worth it.

Went through 4 of them before I called MSD .. .and they were.. Oh By the way... you should buy this little inexpensive...

Sigh.

[The Phenx]

Originally Posted by Chunks

Ooh, nice. Ill definitely do the wrap before I go, ill have to worry about the other stuff later. Money-wise that doesn't sound so bad. Wish I didn't have to replace my coils a few years ago.... thanks!

coils?

[Chunks]

Originally Posted by The Phenx

coils?

Had to replace coil rail and plugs about 20k miles ago.

One day it started running on 4 cylinders. It was pouring rain and I was about 75 miles from home, limped it to a nearby shop and that's what they did.

[The Phenx]

Originally Posted by Chunks

Had to replace coil rail and plugs about 20k miles ago.

One day it started running on 4 cylinders. It was pouring rain and I was about 75 miles from home, limped it to a nearby shop and that's what they did.

ROFL... nevermind.. I miread I thought you had the 1991 not 2001.

Yes your coil On plug.. ignore the MSD comments I made, that is only for older models with a coil/distributor system. The newer models the improvements are minor.

You can still do with the header wrap tho that helps all of them, as will a high flow cat.

[torquemada]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIYaZdiXd5Q

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIYaZdiXd5Q

[Hondaslayer]

Da fuq?

[PARANOID56]

Originally Posted by Hondaslayer

Da fuq?

that was my thought too

[bobturismo]

damn sway bars, there was still a few more inches of up travel still

[Whitford]

I saw the hottest Tacoma tonight. I couldn't get over it - wish I had snapped a pic. Fully "expeditioned" out.

[PGT]

dude is building an AEV Brute with portal axles on a JK frame.

http://forum.aev-conversions.com/showthread.php?t=6030

[PARANOID56]

Originally Posted by PGT

dude is building an AEV Brute with portal axles on a JK frame.

http://forum.aev-conversions.com/showthread.php?t=6030

yea thats awesome.

[Whitford]

Originally Posted by PGT

dude is building an AEV Brute with portal axles on a JK frame.

http://forum.aev-conversions.com/showthread.php?t=6030

Mother****er.

[soslow]

So I'm going to look at a 2000 Nissan Xterra SE w/ 5-Speed manual w/ 127,000 miles tomorrow. Anything particular to know/check?

I'll be trading my Suzuki in on it so it'll be my primary transport for about 7-12 months (until my BRZ comes in, October at the earliest).

[PGT]

Originally Posted by PARANOID56

yea thats awesome.

Originally Posted by Whitford

Mother****er.

My only gripe is that's he's not doing the 6.4L. I mean....you're going through ALL that trouble....heck, a 7.0L crate motor isn't much more.

[bobturismo]

Originally Posted by soslow

So I'm going to look at a 2000 Nissan Xterra SE w/ 5-Speed manual w/ 127,000 miles tomorrow. Anything particular to know/check?

I'll be trading my Suzuki in on it so it'll be my primary transport for about 7-12 months (until my BRZ comes in, October at the earliest).

you should check to see if it still gets terrible mileage.