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Old 02-24-2013, 09:30 PM   #4501
Chunks
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So, I am moving to AZ for about 6 months and I'm taking my cherokee there. It's about a 1,600 mile trip.

I have an '01 with about 95k on it.

Mechanically it is fine, but in hot weather it will misfire if I turn the engine on after it has been running for a bit.

I was thinking about maybe a new t-stat and a coolant flush? Also, would it be a good time to replace the trans fluid as well as f/r diff fluid? I bought it with 45k on the clock and haven't done so yet.

What else should I ask the mechanic to look for? I don't want any break downs on the way there.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:37 PM   #4502
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Finally got my skids mounted!




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Old 02-24-2013, 09:50 PM   #4503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunks View Post
So, I am moving to AZ for about 6 months and I'm taking my cherokee there. It's about a 1,600 mile trip.

I have an '01 with about 95k on it.

Mechanically it is fine, but in hot weather it will misfire if I turn the engine on after it has been running for a bit.

I was thinking about maybe a new t-stat and a coolant flush? Also, would it be a good time to replace the trans fluid as well as f/r diff fluid? I bought it with 45k on the clock and haven't done so yet.

What else should I ask the mechanic to look for? I don't want any break downs on the way there.
The 01 had a heat soak issue with the plugs. There was a TSB that added heat shields to them. I had that issue and it would keep the Jeep from starting when hot out and the engine was warmed up and then shut off. That's the first thing if do because its a $20 fix.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:59 PM   #4504
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Went wheeling at the quarry by Raleigh today. On my last hillclimb of the day, my front end went.

The t-case is good, since the front driveshaft still turns, and the LSD is most likely still good because it still understeers-and-catches around curves when I engage the split shaft collar on my D30.

I'll find out when I crack the diff cover. I'm expecting a busted pinion and/or ring gear. FML
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:20 AM   #4505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGT View Post
The 01 had a heat soak issue with the plugs. There was a TSB that added heat shields to them. I had that issue and it would keep the Jeep from starting when hot out and the engine was warmed up and then shut off. That's the first thing if do because its a $20 fix.
I already have the heat shields.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:59 AM   #4506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunks View Post
I already have the heat shields.
The single best 4 things you can do for a 4.0. heat soak power and MPG.

#1 Dump the stock ignition and replace it with a MSD brain & coil & you must get the MSD RF blocker capactor or you will burn out the unit in 4 months. This will net you approx 3 MPG, 15 hp and solve most starting and idling issues especially on the trail. You must use plain ole copper plugs and overgap them by ..010 so your total gap should be .045. ~ $300

#2 Put in a high flow cat & good BOSCH o2 sensors... Nuff said... Factory ones suck and make you run really rich. Go for the generic Jegs/Summit high flow cat. ~ $160 - $250

#3 Wrap the top foot of your exhaust manifold... or conversely intake... where they cross over does nothing but get you a really warm intake air charge... which as we know are bad, makes bad power, and causes a lot of heat buildup in the engine. Must use silicone spray. ~ $60 and a day installing.

#4 Use water wetter and put in a electric fan. (IE get the engine driven fan outta there) ~$150

On my '94 yj with 37's and 700 pounds of armor I get 16-17 mpg itll idle down to 150 rpm on the trail, never overheats ... just from those 4 tweaks and life is happy.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:00 AM   #4507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hypernoodle View Post
Went wheeling at the quarry by Raleigh today. On my last hillclimb of the day, my front end went.

The t-case is good, since the front driveshaft still turns, and the LSD is most likely still good because it still understeers-and-catches around curves when I engage the split shaft collar on my D30.

I'll find out when I crack the diff cover. I'm expecting a busted pinion and/or ring gear. FML
Check your axle u-joints.. thats usually the failure point.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:44 PM   #4508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Phenx View Post
Check your axle u-joints.. thats usually the failure point.
They're fine. I checked them right off the bat.

The fact that when I pull the posi-lok and engage the split shaft, it understeers-and catches still, means that the LSD is working, and both wheels are connected. By deduction, the axle shafts and u-joints are still connected. The LSD just isn't getting turned by the front driveshaft.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:52 PM   #4509
Chunks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Phenx View Post

The single best 4 things you can do for a 4.0. heat soak power and MPG.

#1 Dump the stock ignition and replace it with a MSD brain & coil & you must get the MSD RF blocker capactor or you will burn out the unit in 4 months. This will net you approx 3 MPG, 15 hp and solve most starting and idling issues especially on the trail. You must use plain ole copper plugs and overgap them by ..010 so your total gap should be .045. ~ $300

#2 Put in a high flow cat & good BOSCH o2 sensors... Nuff said... Factory ones suck and make you run really rich. Go for the generic Jegs/Summit high flow cat. ~ $160 - $250

#3 Wrap the top foot of your exhaust manifold... or conversely intake... where they cross over does nothing but get you a really warm intake air charge... which as we know are bad, makes bad power, and causes a lot of heat buildup in the engine. Must use silicone spray. ~ $60 and a day installing.

#4 Use water wetter and put in a electric fan. (IE get the engine driven fan outta there) ~$150

On my '94 yj with 37's and 700 pounds of armor I get 16-17 mpg itll idle down to 150 rpm on the trail, never overheats ... just from those 4 tweaks and life is happy.
Ooh, nice. Ill definitely do the wrap before I go, ill have to worry about the other stuff later. Money-wise that doesn't sound so bad. Wish I didn't have to replace my coils a few years ago.... thanks!
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:53 PM   #4510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Phenx View Post
The single best 4 things you can do for a 4.0. heat soak power and MPG.

#1 Dump the stock ignition and replace it with a MSD brain & coil & you must get the MSD RF blocker capactor or you will burn out the unit in 4 months. This will net you approx 3 MPG, 15 hp and solve most starting and idling issues especially on the trail. You must use plain ole copper plugs and overgap them by ..010 so your total gap should be .045. ~ $300
this is a good one for most trucks. and nice that you mention the RF blocker capacitor. I ran one on my toyota before i knew about that capacitor and my msd went up in smoke in the middle of death valley (luckily kept the spare with me) after installing that never an issue. so anytime i use an MSD that little 30 buck piece is very worth it.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:32 PM   #4511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PARANOID56 View Post
this is a good one for most trucks. and nice that you mention the RF blocker capacitor. I ran one on my toyota before i knew about that capacitor and my msd went up in smoke in the middle of death valley (luckily kept the spare with me) after installing that never an issue. so anytime i use an MSD that little 30 buck piece is very worth it.
Went through 4 of them before I called MSD .. .and they were.. Oh By the way... you should buy this little inexpensive...

Sigh.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:33 PM   #4512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunks View Post
Ooh, nice. Ill definitely do the wrap before I go, ill have to worry about the other stuff later. Money-wise that doesn't sound so bad. Wish I didn't have to replace my coils a few years ago.... thanks!
coils?
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:37 PM   #4513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Phenx View Post

coils?
Had to replace coil rail and plugs about 20k miles ago.

One day it started running on 4 cylinders. It was pouring rain and I was about 75 miles from home, limped it to a nearby shop and that's what they did.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:53 PM   #4514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunks View Post
Had to replace coil rail and plugs about 20k miles ago.

One day it started running on 4 cylinders. It was pouring rain and I was about 75 miles from home, limped it to a nearby shop and that's what they did.
ROFL... nevermind.. I miread I thought you had the 1991 not 2001.

Yes your coil On plug.. ignore the MSD comments I made, that is only for older models with a coil/distributor system. The newer models the improvements are minor.

You can still do with the header wrap tho that helps all of them, as will a high flow cat.

Last edited by The Phenx; 02-27-2013 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:33 PM   #4515
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:58 PM   #4516
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Da fuq?
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:57 AM   #4517
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Da fuq?
that was my thought too
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:29 AM   #4518
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damn sway bars, there was still a few more inches of up travel still




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Old 03-07-2013, 01:52 AM   #4519
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I saw the hottest Tacoma tonight. I couldn't get over it - wish I had snapped a pic. Fully "expeditioned" out.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:35 PM   #4520
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dude is building an AEV Brute with portal axles on a JK frame.

http://forum.aev-conversions.com/showthread.php?t=6030
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:33 PM   #4521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGT View Post


dude is building an AEV Brute with portal axles on a JK frame.

http://forum.aev-conversions.com/showthread.php?t=6030
yea thats awesome.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:12 PM   #4522
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Quote:
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dude is building an AEV Brute with portal axles on a JK frame.

http://forum.aev-conversions.com/showthread.php?t=6030
Mother****er.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:22 PM   #4523
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So I'm going to look at a 2000 Nissan Xterra SE w/ 5-Speed manual w/ 127,000 miles tomorrow. Anything particular to know/check?

I'll be trading my Suzuki in on it so it'll be my primary transport for about 7-12 months (until my BRZ comes in, October at the earliest).
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:26 PM   #4524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PARANOID56 View Post
yea thats awesome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitford View Post
Mother****er.


My only gripe is that's he's not doing the 6.4L. I mean....you're going through ALL that trouble....heck, a 7.0L crate motor isn't much more.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:03 PM   #4525
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Originally Posted by soslow View Post
So I'm going to look at a 2000 Nissan Xterra SE w/ 5-Speed manual w/ 127,000 miles tomorrow. Anything particular to know/check?

I'll be trading my Suzuki in on it so it'll be my primary transport for about 7-12 months (until my BRZ comes in, October at the earliest).
you should check to see if it still gets terrible mileage.
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