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Old 10-10-2011, 10:51 AM   #1326
Sideshowbob
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Oh that's cool it's your friends business, I like their TJ DIY flatties.
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:04 PM   #1327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob
Oh that's cool it's your friends business, I like their TJ DIY flatties.
Yup! When I lived in jersey I met him. He even let me borrow his truck to tow my heap home. At the time I had an xj with an lt1 in it on 37s.
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:25 PM   #1328
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Nice can you get a nasioc discount?
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:28 PM   #1329
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Originally Posted by Sideshowbob
Nice can you get a nasioc discount?
If you pm me what you're interested in ill call him for you.
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:57 PM   #1330
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So who here owns an AEV Procal?

Last edited by TurismoLou; 10-11-2011 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:07 PM   #1331
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Originally Posted by zombiekiller View Post
You could also spend 700 on a welder and materials to do the same thing, then have the welder left over to make bumpers and sliders.

+1 my welder was literally the best tool I have ever bought.

But if your getting one.. make sure its a 220v unit... you wanna be able to do 1/4" single pass or its not worth it.
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:25 PM   #1332
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Originally Posted by The Phenx

+1 my welder was literally the best tool I have ever bought.

But if your getting one.. make sure its a 220v unit... you wanna be able to do 1/4" single pass or its not worth it.
My miller 140 does 1/4 with ease.
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:56 PM   #1333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob
Nice can you get a nasioc discount?
+1

I am interested in buying a number of parts in the next month or two from a-z for the bumper/tire carrier/etc. I am planning on building for my 1st gen 4runner.

Let me know if he is interested is swinging a deal for us, I can put together a parts list. They seem to have a good rep and the stuff I am looking for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Phenx View Post
+1 my welder was literally the best tool I have ever bought.

But if your getting one.. make sure its a 220v unit... you wanna be able to do 1/4" single pass or its not worth it.

I am with zombiekiller, I use my cheapo Lincoln 120v MIG for most of my stuff. When I was shopping for MIG’s the 120v offerings did better with jobs that are a bit more delicate (i.e. thin metal you are trying to put as little heat into as possible). Doing a V-groove or multi pass doesn’t bother me generally, if I really need to step up I fire up the TIG or stick welder.

Last edited by HeyZeus; 10-11-2011 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 10-11-2011, 06:34 PM   #1334
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Originally Posted by HeyZeus View Post
+1

I am interested in buying a number of parts in the next month or two from a-z for the bumper/tire carrier/etc. I am planning on building for my 1st gen 4runner.

Let me know if he is interested is swinging a deal for us, I can put together a parts list. They seem to have a good rep and the stuff I am looking for.




I am with zombiekiller, I use my cheapo Lincoln 120v MIG for most of my stuff. When I was shopping for MIG’s the 120v offerings did better with jobs that are a bit more delicate (i.e. thin metal you are trying to put as little heat into as possible). Doing a V-groove or multi pass doesn’t bother me generally, if I really need to step up I fire up the TIG or stick welder.

if you guys are serious i'll get ahold of zach. His products are really great and he is a super nice guy.

I'll just let him know that some otters will be barking at him.



If I was building a frame or roll cages that needed certified, sure a 180 or 210 is where i'm at, but for axle brackets, bumpers, motor mounts - your joints are not huge. You're also not on the clock, you can take your time and go with one pass. worry more about potentially having to weld cast to mild with a mig. Use the spare change for a torch rig so you can preheat.

hell, whenever i was building jeep parts, everything got the sledge hammer test. it didnt even need to be pretty.

On the other hand, sheetmetal work - the 140 is stellar finish work, awesome. The duty cycle on miller welders is so cautiously advertised its ridiculous.
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Old 10-11-2011, 06:42 PM   #1335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiekiller View Post
My miller 140 does 1/4 with ease.
From Millers website.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...p?model=M00234

Rated to Max 3/16" mild steel.

If your welding 1/4 with this unit you would need to be pre-heating, and v notching, and even then I wouldn't use it for doing suspension work. The penetration isn't sufficient or consistent enough.
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Old 10-11-2011, 06:45 PM   #1336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyZeus View Post
I am with zombiekiller, I use my cheapo Lincoln 120v MIG for most of my stuff. When I was shopping for MIGís the 120v offerings did better with jobs that are a bit more delicate (i.e. thin metal you are trying to put as little heat into as possible). Doing a V-groove or multi pass doesnít bother me generally, if I really need to step up I fire up the TIG or stick welder.

The 120/140 is perfect for exhaust and sheetmetal. I have one I use all the time for it.

The 180 or 210 for suspension and thick metal work, on roll cages, rock sliders, etc.

If its for welding on cast (which I try to avoid) Stick welder with nickle rod, and following some stringent procedures so you dont crack it.

Honestly a 110v welder is just sketchy sometimes, I have seen more than one weld which looked solid rip out on the trail and show almost 0 penetration.

Bumpers and rock rails sure... but suspension and cages? Your trusting your life to these components, don't skimp out.
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:46 PM   #1337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Phenx

From Millers website.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...p?model=M00234

Rated to Max 3/16" mild steel.

If your welding 1/4 with this unit you would need to be pre-heating, and v notching, and even then I wouldn't use it for doing suspension work. The penetration isn't sufficient or consistent enough.
As I said for before, miller under rates a ton. Ill tell you what. Ill weld 2 1/4 inch pieces of steel together, if you can break my weld with a 50 lb sledge, you win.

You can even scope it or cut it in half to check penetration.

I've been welding first hobby, then pro, now hobby again for 18 years. That little millermatic is more than its advertised.

I've even done tractor repairs with one.

All it takes is a bit of patience and some skill. The duty cycle on them is far beyond what's advertised.
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:06 AM   #1338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiekiller View Post
As I said for before, miller under rates a ton. Ill tell you what. Ill weld 2 1/4 inch pieces of steel together, if you can break my weld with a 50 lb sledge, you win.

You can even scope it or cut it in half to check penetration.

I've been welding first hobby, then pro, now hobby again for 18 years. That little millermatic is more than its advertised.

I've even done tractor repairs with one.

All it takes is a bit of patience and some skill. The duty cycle on them is far beyond what's advertised.
LOL I believe you. I can V-notch preheat and do a nice controlled pass and get great penetration with a 110v.

But remember we are talking to folks who don't know what they are doing.

I am basing my opinions for those guys, and in IMHO for a beginning welder who wants to do some heavy duty equipment the millermatic 180 is a MUCH better choice, plus it gives you headroom for welding on 1" thick d ring blocks, making custom bumpers, etc.
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:22 PM   #1339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiekiller
if you guys are serious i'll get ahold of zach. His products are really great and he is a super nice guy.

I'll just let him know that some otters will be barking at him.
I will PM a list of things to you shortly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Phenx View Post
The 120/140 is perfect for exhaust and sheetmetal. I have one I use all the time for it.

The 180 or 210 for suspension and thick metal work, on roll cages, rock sliders, etc.

If its for welding on cast (which I try to avoid) Stick welder with nickle rod, and following some stringent procedures so you dont crack it.

Honestly a 110v welder is just sketchy sometimes, I have seen more than one weld which looked solid rip out on the trail and show almost 0 penetration.

Bumpers and rock rails sure... but suspension and cages? Your trusting your life to these components, don't skimp out.
Just to be clear I am not advocating doing anything stupid, but if you need to weld thicker than what your machine can do in a single or double pass proper V-grooving works great in many applications. I have a TIG/stick set up that I can punch though way thicker stuff than I do on a regular basis.

Every time I have dug into those sorts of failures there is very good reason for it. MIG welding at the amperage levels used by the 120V units has been proven in mass manufacturing. It is the individual operator/assembler/decision maker that is suspect.

Note: I would put bumpers on the safety critical list as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Phenx View Post
I am basing my opinions for those guys, and in IMHO for a beginning welder who wants to do some heavy duty equipment the millermatic 180 is a MUCH better choice, plus it gives you headroom for welding on 1" thick d ring blocks, making custom bumpers, etc.
I always recommend people that donít know what they are doing to take welding classes from the local tech school.
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:39 PM   #1340
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Originally Posted by HeyZeus View Post
I always recommend people that donít know what they are doing to take welding classes from the local tech school.
+1

Besides its really kinda cool, and you can pick instructors heads for dissimilar metal welding, vertical, upside down, multiple thickness... etc.
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Old 10-13-2011, 01:12 PM   #1341
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I am gonna look for some today. It's been too long without knowing how to weld.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiekiller View Post
if you guys are serious i'll get ahold of zach. His products are really great and he is a super nice guy.

I'll just let him know that some otters will be barking at him.
Did you ever talk to him? I would like to give him a call.
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Old 10-13-2011, 02:51 PM   #1342
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Ya I have a guy who might want corners rockers and tube fenders for him
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Old 10-13-2011, 04:53 PM   #1343
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Me and Damon went and did some trail riding today along a drainage ditch, it wasn't anything tough by any means but it was still fun to get outside and get dirty. Only 2 spots we went through were rough enough to warrant low range. Could have managed in high but I don't like using the skinny peddle more then I have to. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't rub at all especially after seeing others with this big a tire needing some work. There was one spot where I thought I did but after investigating it I didn't see anywhere with fresh rub marks.



















33" BF Goodrich Mud-Terrain KM2 tires and my 4Runner is an excellent combination.

Last edited by Slow5oh; 10-14-2011 at 10:09 PM. Reason: Added new pictures
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:16 AM   #1344
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Nice 4 Runner. I miss mine to this day, still have the tags.
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:18 PM   #1345
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Some final assembly and dry pics of the Medium Quartz Grey Monstaliner-














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Old 10-15-2011, 02:54 PM   #1346
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Looks great!
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:51 AM   #1347
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JeepForum is doing a Superwinch giveaway....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f261/...eaway-1276534/
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:31 AM   #1348
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Coating Came out very nice!
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:33 AM   #1349
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I really do love it, even after all the effort lol.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:45 AM   #1350
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Video highlights the need for tummy tuck and lockers
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