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Old 12-01-2011, 05:21 PM   #1876
Sideshowbob
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A hi-lift breakage, duh
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:29 PM   #1877
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lightforce lights own anything made by hella.




1,000,000 candle power?
viewable from up to 11 miles away?
able to withstand a 12G shotgun blast( birdshot) ?


Yes please.

They are kind of big at 9" though.

They also make a smaller 6 inch.
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:31 PM   #1878
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Rigid LEDs.
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:45 PM   #1879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiekiller View Post
lightforce lights own anything made by hella.




1,000,000 candle power?
viewable from up to 11 miles away?
able to withstand a 12G shotgun blast( birdshot) ?


Yes please.

They are kind of big at 9" though.

They also make a smaller 6 inch.
No.

Having used both, I think the Hellas are a better product. The material and build quality between the two is incomparable, Lightforce uses a proprietary bulb, and Hella offers several beam patterns for different applications.
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:50 PM   #1880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurley959 View Post
No.

Having used both, I think the Hellas are a better product. The material and build quality between the two is incomparable, Lightforce uses a proprietary bulb, and Hella offers several beam patterns for different applications.
Que?

The lightforce lights have focus rings so you can alter the beam pattern as a situation requires.

I guess it's a matter of opinion. I love the lightforce lights over hella, ipf, kc, etc.

And i'll also say that through heavy rock crawling, high speed running, submersion for 10-20 minutes while on and every other extreme scenario, whether hot weather or severe cold, i've never had to replace a bulb.

the lightforce lights may be plastic and may appear or feel cheap, but they hold up like their made of iron.
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:02 PM   #1881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiekiller View Post
Que?

The lightforce lights have focus rings so you can alter the beam pattern as a situation requires.

I guess it's a matter of opinion. I love the lightforce lights over hella, ipf, kc, etc.

And i'll also say that through heavy rock crawling, high speed running, submersion for 10-20 minutes while on and every other extreme scenario, whether hot weather or severe cold, i've never had to replace a bulb.

the lightforce lights may be plastic and may appear or feel cheap, but they hold up like their made of iron.
I wasn't impressed with the focus ring. Compared to a paired lens/reflector combo on the Hella, they left a lot to be desired.

They're both great lights, and it really does come down to preference. The only benefit the Lightforce really has over the Hella is weight, but that is kind of inconsequential unless you're using them in a race application.

As for durability, I totaled some girls' car at a stoplight and the Hella's were unscathed .

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Old 12-01-2011, 06:10 PM   #1882
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Hurley, how reliable (in terms of leaving you stranded) has your disco been? what year is it?
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:19 PM   #1883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyman424 View Post
Hurley, how reliable (in terms of leaving you stranded) has your disco been? what year is it?
That truck was a '97 that went through 90,000 miles of 17-year old driver-induced hell (80k-170k) before the motor popped due to loss of coolant (hole in the radiator). I had absolutely no issues with it while I owned it.

I can recall two instances where I was left stranded; Once when a stick somehow threaded itself over my axle, through my y-pipe and directly into the protective shield that covers the crank position sensor, knocking the cover off and unplugging the sensor. The other time I drove through a hood-deep water hole, then parked for lunch shortly after and it didn't want to start for a few hours.

The Rovers are hit and miss. If you find one that has been cared for, you'll have a great truck that will run well into the 200k's. I have some fantastic memories in that truck and really miss it.

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Old 12-01-2011, 06:22 PM   #1884
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I notice that Hurley's DI has a tdi in it. 200tdi or 300tdi?
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:24 PM   #1885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallyroo View Post
I notice that Hurley's DI has a tdi in it. 200tdi or 300tdi?
The above truck just had the stock 4.0 in it. My last truck had a 300tdi, and my current truck is just a bone stock D1 that I'm contemplating doing another swap on.
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:27 PM   #1886
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I used to own a 5-speed manual 1997 Disco.

Never left me stranded in the backcountry, but left me stranded at work once. I knew right away that it was the fuel pump. Next morning I changed the fuel pump in the parking lot in 30 min and the Disco was good to go.
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:29 PM   #1887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallyroo View Post
I used to own a 5-speed manual 1997 Disco.

Never left me stranded in the backcountry, but left me stranded at work once. I knew right away that it was the fuel pump. Next morning I changed the fuel pump in the parking lot in 30 min and the Disco was good to go.
I'd like to own a 5spd but they're so damn scarce. The 300 is infinitely better when mated to an R380 instead of the ZF.
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:37 PM   #1888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurley959 View Post
I'd like to own a 5spd but they're so damn scarce. The 300 is infinitely better when mated to an R380 instead of the ZF.
The guy I sold my 5-sp Disco to lived almost 2000 miles away. He bought it sight unseen as he really wanted a rust free truck and the rare manual transmission. I picked the buyer up at the airport and he drove the rover all the way home.
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:40 PM   #1889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiekiller View Post
the lightforce lights may be plastic and may appear or feel cheap, but they hold up like their made of iron.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:13 PM   #1890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshowbob View Post
If you plan on going offroad DO NOT buy this kind of step. They are actually worse than nothing at all as they lower your clearance and can smash up into your tub.

I got a nice pair of real rockers (like linked above) on clearance with a "step" on them. That's the only way to go unless it's just a mall crawler.

Here-
http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product...1&categoryId=4
Or here-

Genright looks good too-
http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....ductid=RCG6003

AtoZ-
http://www.knowwhere2jeep.com/atoz-f...er-guards.html

Plus these-
Amazon.com: Rampage 769301 Grab Handle - Pair: Automotive



BTW- I do also love the white wheels even with the pizza cutters you put on there.
Thanks for the links and suggestions!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurley959 View Post
x1000 on not getting those nerf bar side step things. Get a rocker guard with an integrated step as others have suggested. They look better, and actually function. Bluetorch offers a set with tubes that can double as a step for about $350.

As for lights, some Hella FF75's on the rack would look cool, but running all the wiring is a pain and you'll need to make brackets to mount them. If you want performance, toss two Hella Rallye 4000 cornering beams on the front bumper/windscreen bracket and be done.
Thanks, man.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiekiller View Post
lightforce lights own anything made by hella.




1,000,000 candle power?
viewable from up to 11 miles away?
able to withstand a 12G shotgun blast( birdshot) ?


Yes please.

They are kind of big at 9" though.

They also make a smaller 6 inch.


Damn.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiekiller View Post
Congrats Mr. Whitford!

As for shocks- they're a tad overkill but I love bilstein 5150s. Not as pricey as remote res shocks, but most if the function.

The "wobble" could be a few things. When it happens, does it go away when you let off the gas? When you turn the wheel a little?

As for one armed pull ups to get in, that's part of jeep ownership!

When I had my landcruiser, I picked up a pair of saddle stirrups ( the riding a horse kind). I attached one to each side of the truck by a seat bracket bolt.

If a short person needed to get in, open the door, pull the stirrup out, let it hang down so they had a foot hold. Don't need it? Leave it inside the truck tucked under the seat. No dorky low hanging step necessary.

Another thing that will help the shimmy is a better steering damper. I think I still have an ome damper that I had on my old jeep for a month before selling it. If you want it, its yours if you pay shipping or come into town and buy me a beer. Be warned that a better steering damper is only a bandaid and you'll eventually need to find the real problem.
Thanks, Dave!

I'll check out the Bilstein's.

The wobble happens between 55 and 58 mph and it doesn't happen consistently. It is not aggravated by bumps in the road or anything like that. It stops when I hit 59mph or drop below 55.

By the way, I might be out there next week. I want to introduce you to my parents as they will both need a local mechanic with serious know-how. Hope that's cool.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:21 PM   #1891
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I've got a 50" rigid LED bar NIB I'lll gladly sell ya
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:50 PM   #1892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitford

Thanks for the links and suggestions!

Thanks, man.



Damn.

Thanks, Dave!

I'll check out the Bilstein's.

The wobble happens between 55 and 58 mph and it doesn't happen consistently. It is not aggravated by bumps in the road or anything like that. It stops when I hit 59mph or drop below 55.

By the way, I might be out there next week. I want to introduce you to my parents as they will both need a local mechanic with serious know-how. Hope that's cool.
Sent you a pm.

P.s- sounds like a tire balancing issue, a flat spot issue, a weird toe issue or the need for a steering box adjustment.

Did they give you the specs from the alignment?
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:40 PM   #1893
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I love me some H.I.Dizzles

Turning these on is like turning on sunlight, you can't even tell the headlights are on.

You turn these on behind some jackass that cuts you off, they'll pull over and stop because they can't see the road. Well, that's what I've seen them do

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Old 12-03-2011, 06:16 PM   #1894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackie View Post
I think something like this would finish the bottom really nicely:

And rip off at the first tree stump or rock. Whitty, you need proper rock rails/sliders, whatever. Nothing with a step hanging off.


Nice Jeep!
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:19 PM   #1895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitford View Post
I like this, a lot. The wheels are great, although the tires look tiny.

Upgrade. Again.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:30 PM   #1896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upnygimp View Post
Embarking on a new journey with the CJ- Making it winter-ready! Last time I drove it during a snow storm it was a nerve wracking window freezing mess. Things I need to do:

Put my new windshield frame assembly together
Replace the master cylinder with a power booster unit
Replace the windshield washer tank/motor assembly
Do the Blazer heater motor upgrade and clean/seal the heater box
Add foam seals to the hardtop
Studded snow tires (Maybe!)

-Still spin out all the time due to the short wheelbase!
The new blower motor is amazingly better. But, on deeper thought I think I'm gonna leave it off the road during the winter. The older body/frame aren't really treated that well for salt and the frame is starting to get a touch rusty in a few spots.

I'm thinking about trading the Mini in and getting one of these with a V8:


Last edited by upnygimp; 12-03-2011 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:35 PM   #1897
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
4.0L Inline Six Cylinder
4 speed Auto w/overdrive
Four Wheel Drive
3.55:1 Axles
Leather
Power Everything
Multi-function Overhead Trip Computer/Compass/Temp
In-Dash Electronic Vehicle Information Sensor
215,000 miles
Gets about 18mpg cty/23mpg hwy
Current CT Emissions
Jeep is currently titled, registered, and insured in CT

This vehicle looks a bit rough, but is about 99% mechanically sound.
In the last year and 8k miles that I've owned the Jeep, I've replaced:
New Tie Rods
New Hatch Struts
New Starter
New Main Battery Cables
New Battery
New Rear Brake Lines
New Cat-Back Exhaust
Used Rear End w/100k on it
Fluid Flush Rear Differential
Fluid Flush Front Differential
New Goodyear DuraTrac 235/75/15 95% tread left
New Oil on 12/3/11


The Jeep starts right up every time you turn the key, and is as reliable as any vehicle I've ever driven. 200k miles is nothing for the Jeep 4.0L, its literally just getting broken in at 200k. It does not smoke, leak, or burn excessive amounts of oil, maybe a half of a quart between changes. Oil pressure sits at 60psi, it doesn't overheat at all, it has not ticks/knocks or funny noises. There are no Check Engine Lights present, and for that matter, it has never thrown a CEL for as long as I've owned it. It passed the CT emissions test with no issues whatsoever.


The transmission shifts smoothly and as it should. It does not slip, hesitate, or shift hard. The 4WD and transfer case work properly. Shifting from 2HI to 4HI or 4LO is effortless.
The brakes have plenty of life left have been recently bled to ensure they operate properly.


The original rear axle was making some noise from what I thought sounded like the carrier bearings, so I replaced it with a take-off axle from Jeep's Unlimited in Providence, RI. For reference, they are a great source of used Jeep parts, and only take their parts from vehicles with less than 100k miles. I've seen their operation first hand, and the operation is top notch. I replaced the entire axle, housing and all. When I picked up the part it was an entire rear end, including control arms, calipers, discs, differential, axles, everything.


As long as I've owned this jeep, it has been 100% reliable, and I have replaced anything that I deemed possible reliability issues. As it sits now, I would not hesitate to get in the car and drive it across the country tomorrow.


There are a few issues with the car. It needs:

Wiper Blades
Rear rubber 'stoppers' for the hatch
Possibly a new rear U-Joint for the rear driveshaft
Paint!


The wipers have pretty much disintegrated from lack of use. They'll 'work', but should be replaced.

The rear hatch rattles because the 'stoppers' have disintegrated. They can't be more than a couple bucks to replace.

When I replaced the rear axle my mechanic told me he used another U-Joint on the rear of the rear driveshaft, and it seems to be balanced poorly. You get a very slight driveline vibration above 65mph. It is not a very strong vibration, and does not affect the drivability or dependability of the car. But if I were going to keep this Jeep, I'd probably have it replaced.

It needs paint. The original clear coat was peeling, so I decided to give it a rattle can paint job. It does not look very good, and because I ran out of paint, and every store was out of the color I used, it is in fact a slightly different color on the passenger side. I will include a can of the 'right' color with the sale, and may even paint the passenger side in the meantime. Hey, this is the perfect candidate for a flat black 'Zombie Attack Response Vehicle', or maybe even a 'winter camo' paint job :smile: There was also a very small rust spot on the hood that was ground down and primed to remove the rust, but needs a bit of filler to be finished. There is also a small spot of rust on the rear hatch along the bottom edge.

Overall, there are no major rust issues on the body, chassis, or undercarriage.

The driver seat has tears in it; I have black tape covering the rips. Works fine for me. The front door panels have some wear on them, I have a mint condition door panel for the passenger side that needs to go in, I can't find one that is reasonable priced for the driver side.

Anyone that knows me knows that I'm crazy about tires, and these new DuraTracs are GREAT. I'm notorious for putting Super Swampers on my 4x4's, but swampers are terrible in the snow. These tires have TONS of siping in them. They are the ultimate snow tire in my opinion. I have never been as impressed with a tire in the snow as I have with these DuraTracs. They are probably at about 95% tread depth, and probably only have about 3k miles on them at most. They look brand new. I also have two 'almost new' Cooper A/T's in the same size that can go with the vehicle.
If you are looking for a really nice car, this probably isn't it. If you are looking for something cheap and reliable that will drive through two feet of snow, this is it.





Last edited by Whitford; 12-03-2011 at 10:10 PM. Reason: We do not sell cars in OT.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:46 PM   #1898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobturismo View Post
I love me some H.I.Dizzles

Turning these on is like turning on sunlight, you can't even tell the headlights are on.

You turn these on behind some jackass that cuts you off, they'll pull over and stop because they can't see the road. Well, that's what I've seen them do

What light bar is that?
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:14 PM   #1899
Whitford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awilson529 View Post
And rip off at the first tree stump or rock. Whitty, you need proper rock rails/sliders, whatever. Nothing with a step hanging off.


Nice Jeep!
Thanks!

----

I'm having the interior detailed tomorrow. There's a stale odor in the car that I can't seem to get rid of. I honestly didn't even really notice it when I test drove it but it's fairly apparent to me now. It's not tobacco or mildew but just a sort of stale mustiness.

I suspect it's the soft top but I'm going to have them shampoo the seats and carpet anyway and see what it does. If it ends up being the top, I'm going to have to dismount the rack, remove the top and power wash it into oblivion.

And speaking of carpet, I'm tempted to just rip it out entirely. Have any of you removed the carpeting from yours? Is it a simple procedure?

Thanks.
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:15 PM   #1900
bobturismo
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Originally Posted by Baja820 View Post
What light bar is that?
should be this one

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CGwQ8gIwBA

1. don't let people sit on it, it will crack the bumper.


2. Before you drill the holes in the bumper, tighten all the bolts you can and mark the bumper to make sure it's in the right spot. If you have the bolts loose, it will move when you tighten it.

I don't have a good side pic...



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