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Old 02-13-2009, 02:16 AM   #1
SurfGuruJeff
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Default STi dies in 3rd gear @ the drag strip.... ?

Tonight was my first time at the track with my STi @ Irwindale 1/8 mile.

I had an OK launch, 1st to 2nd was fine (shift around 6300rpm), but when I shifted to 3rd ~6400rpm and punched it, boom. Car just shuts off, I coast the rest of the way, then turn the key back, then to "On" then bump start it and it's running now, but with NO boost and CEL and Cruise flashing.

I didn't flat foot shift, but I did shift as quickly as I could, and I didn't miss a gear. Plenty of oil and 1/2 tank of gas in the car. I have banged around the gears just like anyone, and have NEVER had anything like this happen.

The car was in limp mode, so I reset the ECU and boost was back, and everything smelled, sounded, and looked fine. Piping and fittings looked fine, so I'm not sure what happened. Drove home with no problems.

What do you guys think happened?

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Old 02-13-2009, 02:50 AM   #2
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Sounds like your XPT Stage 2 map isnt what u think it is... i'd recommend getting a protune.
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Old 02-13-2009, 03:21 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray_STi View Post
Sounds like your XPT Stage 2 map isnt what u think it is... i'd recommend getting a protune.
Wait.... what!?

I highly doubt it's the tune, considering I followed the exact requirements for the tune, and also considering Braden did his tuning here in LA.
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Old 02-13-2009, 03:30 AM   #4
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Default Hmmm.....interesting

I'm no mechanic but perhaps your ecu locked up because there was just too much power from that OTS map causing your air/fuel ratio to a level where the ECU could not handle which resulted to it stalling.

However, Mad props on the 10.51 while limping to the finish.
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Old 02-13-2009, 03:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luvless2620 View Post
I'm no mechanic but perhaps your ecu locked up because there was just too much power from that OTS map causing your air/fuel ratio to a level where the ECU could not handle which resulted to it stalling.

However, Mad props on the 10.51 while limping to the finish.
Yeah, but it was 1/8 mile, haha... I have banged the gears around with this map just like that a lot and had no problems. I'm only pushing 17psi, and this is a good tune. I've logged it and everything is pretty spot on.
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:15 AM   #6
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What was the CEL?
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:24 AM   #7
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Maybe an electrical / ground issue ?
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:35 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luvless2620 View Post
I'm no mechanic but perhaps your ecu locked up because there was just too much power from that OTS map causing your air/fuel ratio to a level where the ECU could not handle which resulted to it stalling.
what?

you should've had the CEL read...
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:31 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by luvless2620 View Post
I'm no mechanic but perhaps your ecu locked up because there was just too much power from that OTS map causing your air/fuel ratio to a level where the ECU could not handle which resulted to it stalling.
wtf??

When you said it had no boost, do you mean 0 psi, or do you mean 7 psi? If it was 0 there was a hardware problem, like an I/C hose popped off, that would explain the car stalling as well. If it was 7, it could have been anything that caused the ECU to dump into failsafe mode and disable boost control. You should have had the code read, at this point it's just a guessing game.
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Old 02-13-2009, 11:49 AM   #10
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could be an overboost fuel cut type situation, but like always, never post a thread without having the CEL code.....
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Old 02-13-2009, 02:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfGuruJeff View Post
Tonight was my first time at the track with my STi @ Irwindale 1/8 mile.

I had an OK launch, 1st to 2nd was fine (shift around 6300rpm), but when I shifted to 3rd ~6400rpm and punched it, boom. Car just shuts off, I coast the rest of the way, then turn the key back, then to "On" then bump start it and it's running now, but with NO boost and CEL and Cruise flashing.

I didn't flat foot shift, but I did shift as quickly as I could, and I didn't miss a gear. Plenty of oil and 1/2 tank of gas in the car. I have banged around the gears just like anyone, and have NEVER had anything like this happen.

The car was in limp mode, so I reset the ECU and boost was back, and everything smelled, sounded, and looked fine. Piping and fittings looked fine, so I'm not sure what happened. Drove home with no problems.

What do you guys think happened?

Here's the Run on YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fItzlTnYLno

Mods:
Snorkus delete
K&N Filter
Invidia Bellmouth DP
Stock Catback
XPT Stage 2 Map

Hmm. This has happened to me once at the track. Exact same thing. The hose on the compressor nipple had popped off. Check your stock boost solenoid if you have not already.
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Old 02-13-2009, 02:26 PM   #12
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I didn't check the code because I was more worried that I blew my Turbo (though I didn't see any smoke or hear any clatter), and wanted to see if resetting the ECU would give me back my boost, and it did. But, yeah... I was kicking myself for not checking the code.

And when I say no boost, yes, I mean <0psi (gauge would even go to 0). On the way home I was still making 17psi and no stalling, so I don't know that any pipes popped off, but I can check and see if there are any signs that that's what happened.

I don't know about overboost, because I've never had boost creep before.
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Old 02-13-2009, 02:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STi Mikey View Post
Hmm. This has happened to me once at the track. Exact same thing. The hose on the compressor nipple had popped off. Check your stock boost solenoid if you have not already.
Yeah, it's one of the things I first checked.
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Old 02-13-2009, 02:33 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfGuruJeff View Post
And when I say no boost, yes, I mean <0psi (gauge would even go to 0). On the way home I was still making 17psi and no stalling, so I don't know that any pipes popped off, but I can check and see if there are any signs that that's what happened.
No boost at all means a hardware problem. No matter what happened to the ECU, you can NOT run less than 7 psi of boost unless there is a leak somewhere. A reset would not have fixed it.
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Old 02-13-2009, 02:56 PM   #15
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No boost at all means a hardware problem. No matter what happened to the ECU, you can NOT run less than 7 psi of boost unless there is a leak somewhere. A reset would not have fixed it.
Right, because the wastegate needs 7psi before it can open, correct? I didn't go all the way up my revs, I only went up to about 3500rpm in 2nd (I was in the parking lot, didn't wanna get crazy) just to see if I was getting any boost. I didn't bother going through all the gears or anything.

I just rechecked and all my IC hoses and other connections, and they all look fine.
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Old 02-13-2009, 03:19 PM   #16
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Check the crankshaft position sensor.
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Old 02-13-2009, 05:23 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by SurfGuruJeff View Post
Right, because the wastegate needs 7psi before it can open, correct? I didn't go all the way up my revs, I only went up to about 3500rpm in 2nd (I was in the parking lot, didn't wanna get crazy) just to see if I was getting any boost. I didn't bother going through all the gears or anything.

I just rechecked and all my IC hoses and other connections, and they all look fine.
Right
The absolute soonest that the wastegate can possibly open will happen when you run a direct line from the turbo to the wastegate (or set your WGDC to 0). When this happens, the wastegate will open as soon as the boost hits the wastegate spring pressure, which for the stock turbo is 7 psi.
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Old 02-23-2009, 02:55 AM   #18
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OK, so this happened again the other night.

This time it happened when I downshifted from 6th to 4th on the freeway to pass someone. As soon as I shifted into 4th and punched it, *clunk* CEL and NO boost... at all, nada.

It was just like before, as if my car was in Valet mode... the revs wouldn't go above 3,000 rpm, and when I punched the gas the throttle barely increased at all, so it wouldn't build any boost.

It was late at night, so I couldn't find a place to check the CEL code. That night, as I was leaving a party, boost was back to normal, and the revs were back to normal, but I still had CEL. Today the CEL was gone... doh! So I couldn't check it, and I also found out that Auto Parts stores can't check codes anymore in CA anyways.... ???

I will take it to Aamco (apparently they are allowed to check CEL codes) when I can and hopefully retrieve the codes.

Any new ideas?
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:27 AM   #19
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Put the stock tune on it and see if this goes away?
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:31 AM   #20
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Sounds like it's going into limp mode, you REALLY need to get that code read, immediately, the next time it happens.
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:13 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arch4life View Post
could be an overboost fuel cut type situation, but like always, never post a thread without having the CEL code.....
what it sounds like to me...
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:58 AM   #22
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what it sounds like to me...
overboost fuel cut doesn't throw the car into limp mode for the next 10-20 miles.
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:14 PM   #23
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Excessive knocking will make it go into a limp mode that's not a real limp mode. It'll pull timing, turn off boost (as much as it can) and switch to a safety fuel map. Eventually the ECU will return to normal when the knocking is gone for awhile. If the engine can't pull enough timing to protect itself in the normal map, it switches to these safety maps. I don't know when exactly it switches but, if you look at the maps on our cars you can see the failsafe maps in there.

I think the OP may be beating his motor to death with knock. I'd be on that logging the engine and not driving it hard will I figured this out.
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Old 02-23-2009, 01:41 PM   #24
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I went to get the code pulled today, but the uy at Aamco said that he can't pull the code if the CEL isn't on. Is this true? Should I take it to a Subaru mechanic? (I loaned my tactrix cable to a friend)
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Old 02-23-2009, 06:30 PM   #25
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false knock? sounds like it to me...the abrupt bang from the hard shift in third could have registered as knock in the engine there for cutting timing and boost? I'm not sure if Subaru's are that sensitive, but I have heard of this in other cars.

Just noticed the post two above mine...good point..it may be actual knock and not false knock...either way it needs to be checked ASAP.!!!

Do not go into boost anymore until you get this situated.
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