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Old 02-17-2009, 11:13 PM   #1
Un0RiGiNaL
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Default I figured out one of the best ways to keep your subs from moving

Well i figured this out a long time ago but never posted it. I have a big enclosure, 2 10" alpine type-r's and i had a problem with them moving around whenever i took turns or etc.

This is alot cheaper than getting a strut bar.

I just cut out some wood for the side of the enclosure and for the front of the enclosure and put it under the carpet. I do donuts and everything and have NO PROBLEM with subs moving around AT ALL. Heres a quick MSPAint of it


And the wood is under the carpet, so its not even noticeable. My amp is mounted on my box so i have that extra space on the right



just make sure the wood is like an 3/4 or 1 inch thick so it can hold the subs.
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Old 02-17-2009, 11:18 PM   #2
alxhastngs
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I guess that works OK until you need to access your spare tire well...
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Old 02-18-2009, 12:52 AM   #3
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L-brackets bolted to the rear deck with wingnuts would save a lot of weight and allow access to the spare.
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:18 AM   #4
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i just crammed a box from my mtx coaxials inbetween my box and the back of the trunk..

too bad i have a scuff on my surround now..

yeah..building a new box tomorrow-ish..using L-brackets like i should have
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Old 02-18-2009, 03:53 AM   #5
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Your illustration is brilliant. Here's my solution to the same problem

Current setup















Former setup



Last edited by Audiosavvy; 02-19-2009 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:04 AM   #6
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I just made a couple of brackets and bolted my box to where the rear wiper motor/assembly would attach on the rear deck...works like a charm.

PS mounting an amp to a box is bad juju... if you ever need to take the box out, you have to then pull the fuse and disconnect all of your power to the amp.

I've also seen plenty of wires get pulled out of an amp from the box moving around the trunk...
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:17 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ijb2105 View Post
I just made a couple of brackets and bolted my box to where the rear wiper motor/assembly would attach on the rear deck...works like a charm.

PS mounting an amp to a box is bad juju... if you ever need to take the box out, you have to then pull the fuse and disconnect all of your power to the amp.

I've also seen plenty of wires get pulled out of an amp from the box moving around the trunk...

what about for auto X?


or you could just build another floor, lets say outa 1/4 mdf ow any wood to your liking and build another floor and screw it in like that
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:38 AM   #8
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4 small "L" brackets with short wood screws. One bracket on each side + one screw in box + one screw in the floor. Once you unsrew the screws from the floor you can even tell you screwed something in there.
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowranger View Post
what about for auto X?
What about it? the setup is very similar to Audiosavvys and works extremely well. I have my amp mounted to a custom bracket i made that fits in the drivers rear corner by the jack
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ijb2105 View Post
What about it? the setup is very similar to Audiosavvys and works extremely well. I have my amp mounted to a custom bracket i made that fits in the drivers rear corner by the jack

You mean similar to my LAST setup, right? The current setup uses no screws/bolts/brackets, it's built to be about 3mm too tall to fit under the strut brace, so I loosen it up, position the enclosure, and mount it back down. The FEEL of the bass is noticeably better, and there's nothing I can do to even budge the enclosure. I did track it with the last setup, with brackets mounted to the rear deck, and never had a problem, but this setup is better by a bit.
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trueno16v View Post
4 small "L" brackets with short wood screws. One bracket on each side + one screw in box + one screw in the floor. Once you unsrew the screws from the floor you can even tell you screwed something in there.
Wood screws don't hold well in metal, if your going to screw in to the floor then use a screw with a better thread.
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtont62 View Post
Wood screws don't hold well in metal, if your going to screw in to the floor then use a screw with a better thread.

Good point. The only time they work well in metal is when you're screwing into metal where no hole existed, and so it's distorting and bending the metal out of the way to give the coarse threads something to grab on. Certainly less than ideal
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Old 02-20-2009, 12:31 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtont62 View Post
Wood screws don't hold well in metal, if your going to screw in to the floor then use a screw with a better thread.
I'm not talking about screwing into the metal, just the carpeted wood panel that is on the trunk floor.
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Old 02-20-2009, 01:09 AM   #14
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Or you could simply not do donuts . . . .
add two L brackets with Wing nuts and be good to go
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Old 02-20-2009, 03:46 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trueno16v View Post
I'm not talking about screwing into the metal, just the carpeted wood panel that is on the trunk floor.
That flimsy fiberboard will slide too if you throw some G's into it.
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Old 02-20-2009, 12:33 PM   #16
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Another Cheap and easy solution is to just take strips of the rough side of velcro and stick them to each other (double sided rough velcro). Then lay the strips between the carpet and the bottom of the box. More strips = Less movement.
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Old 02-21-2009, 04:22 AM   #17
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seems fine to me
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Old 02-21-2009, 10:24 AM   #18
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Have a Nice Day?

DOn't feel bad.

I get wood from Alpine Bishes, too.

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