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Old 02-18-2009, 09:16 PM   #1
vms150
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Default Matte Finish... How well does it hold up?

My buddy works at an auto body shop and agreed to paint my car for free (minus materials) since I have done more than enough to his car mechanically for him. I am thinking of going matte black with a matte clear. He said it is really easy to spray and would love to do it.
My concern is I live in new england where we have somewhat harsh winters. Does anyone know how matte finishes hold up to road salt and sand, and winter road conditions and well as sun fading in the other months? I can't wax it to protect the paint so does it pick up a ton of road grit? Also does anyone know the life expectance of the paint?
Please let it know if anyone has any information on it. Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:32 PM   #2
wulsen
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Rule #1- Don't cheap out on the paint and clear coat, buy the best paint you can afford.
Rule #2- Don't cheap out on layers, make sure your buddy paint it couple layers
Rule #3- Prep the car for paint is more important than painting process, as a car that is not preped(sanding, bondo rust spot, more sanding) right before painting will only mean the paint might chip-off and fall off more easily.
Rule #4- Give your paint sufficient time to dry, many body shop only let the paint dry for couple days, if possible i would let my car sit in a dust free environment for a week.

The life expectance of the paint depend on all the above. Do more research on automotive paint. Just for your info, matte paint are usually not designed for daily driving automobiles so i really don't know if they are that good of a choice. usually the longest lasting painting method is paint everything(full chasis, engine bay etc) as it don't leave the paint edge exposed for possible chip and water pocket.
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:47 PM   #3
Mike37
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In my limited experience with matte finishes, large areas (like a hood/fender/trunk lid/roof/etc.) tend to turn blotchy as they're exposed to the elements. Some areas might look black while others might look charcoal or even grey.

It would definitely look great while it lasts, though.
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Old 02-20-2009, 01:11 AM   #4
flghtmstr1
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You could use bed liner...
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Old 02-22-2009, 03:41 AM   #5
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matte colors are just as durable as any other color.

The way they look flat is there is a dulling agent used in the clearcoat.

If sprayed properly, like any other paintjob, it will look nice and smooth and be just as durable as any normal paintjob.
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:49 PM   #6
vms150
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Now there is a difference in information. Is this just opinion or does anyone has fact or evidence to back up their claims?
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Old 02-22-2009, 10:03 PM   #7
retroXvertigo
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I've always heard the difference in is the clearcoat.
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Old 02-22-2009, 10:11 PM   #8
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i have 2 friends that have satin finishes on their cars, one of them did a flat paint with a gloss clear, and the other did a gloss paint with a flat clear. i would take the gloss paint with flat clear 100x's over, it looks awesome. i have some shots of both, let me find them...
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Old 02-22-2009, 10:24 PM   #9
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this is the flat paint with gloss clear:

here is the gloss paint with flat clear:


the z is my personal favorite... and it never has to be waxed
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Old 02-22-2009, 11:40 PM   #10
Gigabelova
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Hmm, you know Jeremy?
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:02 AM   #11
tpendergraft85
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yep i do
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Old 02-23-2009, 06:13 AM   #12
jet8300
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It doesn't HAVE to be waxed, but shouldn't it be? Just to protect the paint as you would with a glossy paint job? I wonder what it looks like if you put wax on it? Does it make it less of a satin and more of a gloss?
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:57 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renegade_00 View Post
It doesn't HAVE to be waxed, but shouldn't it be? Just to protect the paint as you would with a glossy paint job? I wonder what it looks like if you put wax on it? Does it make it less of a satin and more of a gloss?

It looks like an unfinished/unpainted model, which the kid just left the color of the plastic.

Yet, I like it.

But I wonder about the wax, too.

sotc
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:23 PM   #14
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you would think if the only difference is the flattening agent in the clear, it would be okay to wax...

I know if you are just spraying a car with flat paint (rattle can or cheap job) you cannot wax it because the paint is porous, but with a clearcoat (flat or not) one would assume you can wax without it being absorbed into the clear. Just use a sealant on it.

Just my .02
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Old 02-23-2009, 06:12 PM   #15
qc punk
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Could you take your car to a paint shop and have them spray a matte clear coat over the origional paint and clear?
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Old 02-23-2009, 06:26 PM   #16
truenosan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qc punk View Post
Could you take your car to a paint shop and have them spray a matte clear coat over the origional paint and clear?
Not really as you need to sand down the car before having it sprayed again.

Now, it is somewhat possible to just sand the car with say 800-1000 Grit and just re-clear it . But the outcome would be really hit and miss, and the chances of burning through the clear/paint is very high when just trying to sand the clear.
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:52 PM   #17
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my friend with the z says that he was told not to wax it, it does feel more pourous than an ordinary paintjob.
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:09 PM   #18
dblurx4
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Flat black will hold up just as well as your everyday basecoat/clearcoat paint job. The good thing about flat clear is that it is much more scratch resistant than your everyday clearcoat. The "flattening agent" that is in most all flat clears is real thick and holds up very well to almost anything.

They only thing your going to need is a california duster and a good quick detailer like Mequairs or Eagle NanoWax. Other than that, just wash it just like your normally would and dust it off with the duster and wipe er down with the Meguairs or Nanowax and done deal...

Question, most important question of all... What paint line/system does your buddys shop use? DO NOT GO WITH a single stage flat black, GO WITH a traditional black basecoat with flat clear. My suggestion would be either Standox or Sikkens, given that you live in Europe you should have both paint lines readily available to you since they are both European paint lines. To do a whole car you will most likely need a gallon of flat clear if your going all out do the do the jambs, and about 3 quarts to be safe if your just doing the exterior. With the flat clear your going to need the hardner to go with, depending on the mix ratio's you will have to figure out how much you will need of that. DO NOT reduce the flat clear for it will flash (or dry) to quick between coats and you will have dry spots here and there. So just stick to the mix ratio which should be 2:1 for both paint systems I mentioned above. MAKE SURE that your friend sands or "nibs" any and all dirt nibs that may have got into the black basecoat before he goes through with the flat clear. If you take the time to "nib" the dirt out of your 3rd coat of basecoat after it dries, your 4th coat will just be to cover up the your light sanding scratches and to assure a smooth surface for the clear. If there is NO dirt in the basecoat, your clear should come out flawless given that your buddy is a good painter...

To finish it off... If will hold up really well to anything and everything if not better than your average clearcoat for flat clear is a bit bulkier and resitant to scratches chips etc. But if a bird s**ts on the car and you see it right away, dont hesitate to get that off there asap for that could possibly stain the flat clear and it will bug the s**t out of you... PM me if you have any questions, or if your friend has any questions.

Here is just a couple pics of a 1949 Ford that I have done flat black, 2 different times with 2 different paint schemes (obviosuly)... As well as some pics of a GSX-R that I did flat red/black with some graphics etc...
Hope it all goes well!






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Old 02-24-2009, 02:34 AM   #19
truenosan
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From what my teacher has told me, he likes Standdox clears the best, as they are a lot harder then sikkens.

BASF has horrible clears in my opinion, at least their R&M line.
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truenosan View Post
From what my teacher has told me, he likes Standdox clears the best, as they are a lot harder then sikkens.

BASF has horrible clears in my opinion, at least their R&M line.
Hmmm Standox and Sikkens are almost identical... BASF started the whole "flat" clearcoat line with their Carrizma line. BASF is no joke when it comes to paint products, they lay out really nice and the durability is no different than any other top of the line paint product. RM or "Diamont" is an off brand from BASF, its essentialy the same product without all of the fancy advertising that most of the BASF products have such as "Glasruit".
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:28 PM   #21
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My friend did his in some kind of matte green... there was multiple coats of satin clear put on it.

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Old 02-25-2009, 10:52 PM   #22
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matte finish kicks ass esp. black.
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Old 02-26-2009, 02:09 AM   #23
ereyome
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any one got more pics off matte red cars perferibly subarus but w/e
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Old 03-01-2009, 07:03 AM   #24
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I love the matte black paint and a really cool effect is doing a matte flat black paint job with gloss clear accents like center stripes or graphics on the side of the car.
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:20 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vms150
Now there is a difference in information. Is this just opinion or does anyone has fact or evidence to back up their claims?
i did my previous vehicle a semiflat black by using reducer, just takes the shine out. i wish i had a picture but I'm on my phone. BASF makes a matteclear coat also
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