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Old 02-21-2009, 03:08 PM   #1
2gnt2wrx
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For the past few months I have been having idle problems, I referenced the link below and cleaned my IACV 3 times using this method without luck. So I decided to take this cleaning process a step further, by removing the black plastic motor from the aluminum valve housing.

I take no responsibility for any damage you cause to your own car while attempting this process.

Notes and Updates:
-Mark the iacv motor screw orientation before starting with a sharpie before starting.
-Make sure you have the following gaskets/o-rings on hand before you start. If coolant touches these gaskets they expand rendering them useless.

Parts info:

1. IACV to TB gasket part# is 22659AA120
2. O-ring Motor to housing Size: 3/4ID, 7/8OD, 1/16 wall



http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...t=IAC+cleaning

All the tools/parts that you will need are listed in the link above with the exception of a hacksaw to cut a slot in the star bolts to remove the motor from the valve using a flat head screwdriver.
I highly recommend using WD-40 because brake cleaner and other solvents are harsh and may damage the two small bearings, and two O-rings inside the IACV.

Here is a pic of the IACV together


This is a picture of the location of the two screws that you will need to cut a slot in the top of to remove. I lost the other bolt somewhere in the garage but this IACV is a spare. Note: the two bolts are not on very tight so its fairly easy to remove them.



After you remove the two small star bolts, you can pull the motor away from the valve housing. Make sure you don't lose the small O-ring between the two. This is a picture of the Valve removed from the motor. Make sure not to damage the magnet attached to the shaft.

another view


Now that the two sides are apart; spin the magnet. It may feel like its catching on something and won't spin freely. This is where the WD-40 and q-tips come into play. Turn the shaft and thoroughly clean under the valve itself. There is a recess that gunk gets caught in that is not accessible with the motor still attached to the valve housing. The other method in the link above doesn't allow you to do this.

Now that you are satisfied with how clean it is, and how freely the valve spins. Re-assemble it and install it back on the car using a new gasket. The part number for the gasket is listed in the link above and is around $6 from subaru.


The Pictures below are for reference purposes only do not disassemble your IACV this far. This was a spare IACV that I sacrificed for the good of NASIOC
The first picture is a view looking straight into the valve housing with the valve removed. The small round thing at the bottom is another small bearing.

I pretty much destroyed the valve by doing this but like it says above its just to show you whats inside.
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Last edited by 2gnt2wrx; 01-18-2014 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 02-21-2009, 11:03 PM   #2
mrdrd04rex
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I just disconnected my mafs and turned the ignition on (engine off) then ignition off, this puts the car in fail safe and started the car. With the intercooler removed I then sprayed throttle body cleaner into the TB while keeping the egine rpms up with my spare hand. Your way sounds a little easier.
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Old 02-22-2009, 04:33 PM   #3
MRF582
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Wow, nice write-up!
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:33 AM   #4
bsh
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Nice write-up

If you disconnect the connector at a working IASV, will it return to closed posistion ie engine stalls?
Thanks
Ben Stian
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:28 PM   #5
2gnt2wrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsh View Post
Nice write-up

If you disconnect the connector at a working IASV, will it return to closed posistion ie engine stalls?
Thanks
Ben Stian
I'm not 100%sure because I've never done it. But I did disconnect mine while it was malfunctioning and it did nothing because it was sticking anyways.
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Old 02-25-2009, 05:39 PM   #6
Dragon Wagon
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just cleaned mine w WD40 lots of build up I was very surprised after reinstall throttle response was better but it only lasted for a little while edit I just did the above procedure it did a great job throttle responce went through the roof I highly recommend this procedure best way to do the cleaning

Last edited by Dragon Wagon; 05-07-2009 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:49 PM   #7
DanBelford
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I just thought I would share my experience:

03 WRX 130,000km
Threw a P1507
-badle idle, hunting, fuel cut ect.
Ceaned IAC as per above
Reset ECU
Problem fixed
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:52 AM   #8
Metallrulz
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Thanks a ton for this write-up! I followed what was done in the other thread and I couldn't clean it enough, so I tried this. Worked great!

Do you think the stepper motor has a certain alignment with the housing of the IACV? The holes in the motor are elongated so it looks like it is adjustable. Just to be sure, I marked mine with a magic marker so I could line it up exactly the same when I put it back together.


Also, I found that you don't need to slot the screws if you have a small pair of vise-grips. I was able to easily grab the screw heads with them.

Thanks again, especially for the pics and the IACV you sacrificed!
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:59 AM   #9
oguitar
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This sort of write up is what makes NASIOC great. Thanks for taking the time and effort to document your procedure so clearly.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:02 PM   #10
2gnt2wrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oguitar View Post
This sort of write up is what makes NASIOC great. Thanks for taking the time and effort to document your procedure so clearly.
No problem, I just got sick of my idle problems in my 04 and decided to do the writeup to help.
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:36 AM   #11
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Great thread. I also went through some of this in the other posting. I noticed that a good amount of gunk also built up inside the bearing, as it isn't sealed. I soaked the valve assembly in gasoline and it seemed to help loosen up alot of the grime that a q-tip cant reach. Spinning the valve while soaking helped to agitate alot of the buildup making removal easier.
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:51 AM   #12
Haelan
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Is that valve housing cracked? Maybe the camera is just playing with my mind...
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:50 AM   #13
2gnt2wrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haelan View Post
Is that valve housing cracked? Maybe the camera is just playing with my mind...
I think you are looking at the picture with the bottom mating surface where the gasket sits? It's just leftover RTV from when I opened it the first time and the gasket expanded on me, I was a noob and didn't have a new gasket.


FYI: If you do the coolant bypass mod, your gasket won't expand.
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:40 PM   #14
thatsilver2.5rs
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Exclamation Important!!

OK I think I have just figured something out that makes a huge difference overall when attaching the motor back onto the IACV!!

As background, I first cleaned the IACV along with taking the motor off so I could spin the magnet and shaft. I used WD-40 and Q-tips. When I first re-attached the motor to IACV, then the IACV to the car; It idled high (which it did not do before cleaning) and was searching around 1700-2000rpm. I figured I ****ed up the IACV somehow by cleaning it.

So to double-check I did everything correctly, I took the IACV back apart; and this is what I found....

When the motor is disconnected, the magnet on the shaft has a single black square tab on the tip. When attaching the motor back onto the valve, this tab on the magnet has to be lined up inside the "bottom" of the motor in between 2 "stops". You can see the pattern inside the bottom of the motor by looking into it when it is off of the valve, and you can feel it by GENTLY using a small screwdriver.

Second, the 2 screws that hold the motor on have an obvious range of adjustment that holds the motor onto the valve at a small angle. I believe the angle the motor being held onto the valve controls how much air passes through initially...Reason?

If you attach the motor to the valve correctly yet don't have the screws tightened down all the way, you can twist the motor very slightly within the range the screws allow. When you do this you can see it moves the "block off" (for lack of a better term) inside the valve through the bottom.

(I adjusted mine by twisting the motor slightly so the smallest gap possible was between the block off and the wall of the valve, then tightened the motor down all the way.)

Installed it back onto the car and OMG...the idle was back down rock solid exactly where it should be while warming up. Right at 1200, then dropped to about 600 when it was warm.
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:10 PM   #15
blakkboxer
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nice write up!

i cleaned out my IACV today (q-tips and alcohol) but didn't take the motor out.

my car is still idling weird, sometimes stays at 1500, then goes down to 1100-1200 with a pulsing sound. When i give it light throttle it bogs then jumps and goes. Driving above 2k rpm is fine, but light to light its freakin crap!

went to autozone, CEL code is p0519


Tommorow i will pick up IAC gasket from friend.

(cuz i re-used old gasket which probably has a minor leak due to it being expanded and PITA to make it sit right)

and re-do the cleaning but this time without motor, wish me luck!!
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Old 09-21-2009, 12:13 AM   #16
blakkboxer
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omfgbbq!

she idles so perfect now!! right around 500!

i found the problem, old gasket got pinched it got split so yeah my assumption was correct, it was leaking.. picked up new gasket today, took IACV motor out, sprayed some WD-40, a few q-tips, cleaned my short ram air filter with K&N's filter cleaner+oil(crap was filthy too) and my MAF..


i'm sooooooo happy!!!!!!
i haven't been able to drive her for a week, using my dad's slow ass '92 isuzu rodeo for temporary, which sucked.
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Old 10-27-2009, 09:33 AM   #17
SteveKoz
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Hello.. I just purchased a 2002 Outback 5sp for my son. It threw the P1507 code the other day. When I found this thread I couldn't believe how detailed and helpful it read until I popped the hood and went looking for the part. Do all Subaru's have an IACV? I thought I know just were to look but nothing looks like the picture. Can someone help direct a newbe. I was guessing it was on top of the motor just before the housing that leads to the air filter box. Looking down on the motor I have the throttle cables on the right side and I was expecting to see this box sitting right on top next to the cables. I guess I'm guessing wrong? :-) Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:17 AM   #18
bryan_johnson
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SteveKoz, it sits right on top of the thottle body. Directly above the throttle plate. I think the outback uses the same IACV (22650AA182), so the instructions here should be valid.
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:07 PM   #19
snowmants
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This write up is awesome. I have a 2004 WRX with COBB stg 2 with supporting mods and I am having these same symptoms and CEL ("Idle too high"). When I start off it idles fine for a little bit and then randomly gets high for periods and usually hangs around 1500 rpm. It will sometimes drop down and then start pulsing up and down about 200 rpm. I suspect this IACV to be the problem. I will perform the procedure you have outlined and revert with my results.
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:36 PM   #20
ScoobyNubieToo!
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Awesome write up!
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Old 12-04-2009, 08:35 PM   #21
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Im getting a p1507 after my new engine install with blow through. I had a screwed up IACV from about a year ago when the o-ring that sits where the motor meets the housing got screwed up. I cleaned mine, replaced it, still no luck. Took the old one, cleaned it and swapped the good o-ring from the newer IACV and put that on, and same thing. I do not want to spend $260 for a valve that might not fix the problem, does anyone have any other possible solutions which might cause this code, or is it strictly the IACV.
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Old 02-09-2010, 12:35 AM   #22
txl146
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has anyone used seafoam as a cleaning solvent to clean IACV?
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Old 02-20-2010, 02:27 AM   #23
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I also used grinder and hand impact tool to remove 2 bolts.

There was so much more gunk hidden under the plate (even after spraying it with all bunch of stuff/wiping with 10 Q-tips)! It's definitely worth to disassemble the IACV unit and clean it inside.

I used hand impact tool to remove 2 bolts.
Amazon.com: Lisle 29200 3/8" Hand Impact Tool Set: AutomotiveAmazon.com: Lisle 29200 3/8" Hand Impact Tool Set: Automotive
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Old 02-22-2010, 12:48 PM   #24
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nice write up
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Old 03-22-2011, 11:17 PM   #25
Objector
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I'm planning to take mine off, clean it and replace the gasket. i'm having issues with white smoky exhaust at warm idle and my search has led me to the IACV.

Does anyone know the part number for the MY05 STi IACV gasket? is it the same as for the wrx? and where is the IACV located on an 05 STi/STi? doesn't look to be in the same place as on a wrx based on pics.
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