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Old 02-21-2009, 09:28 PM   #1
parkes
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Default Phase 1 ej25 to phase 2 ej22 Swapers BEWARE

Currently in the final phase of swapping a phase 1 ej25 from 97 gt into my phase 2 ej22 leggy wagon. But just let you know it was a P.I.T.A but like all subarus it can be done.

1. First major problem is that the main harness will not work. You must swap the ej22 harness onto the ej25. This requires you removing the intake manifold.

2. The injector plugs DO work however they do not snap on very well so if you want a reliable connection you have splice the ej25 injector plug onto your ej22 harness.

3. The ej22 harness does not have the EGR input so you must delete the EGR all in all. This requires you to make a block off plate on your manifold and finding suitable plugs to plug the EGR openings on the driver side head and manifold.

4. The TPS connection is different. All you have to do is take the ej25 plug and splice it into your ej22 harness. (PIN FOR PIN COLOR FOR COLOR) they are all the same i checked wiring diagrams to verify

5. The coil packs connector is different aswell so this requires you too splice the ej25 connector onto your ej22 harness(PIN FOR PIN COLOR FOR COLOR) you will have a remaining black wire. This is obviously a ground so ground it to a solid part on the engine. Do not splice it to another ground!

6. The IAC connections are waaaaaaaay different so i didnt bother anyways so i just deleted it. If you were to splice it in the would require you to use the middle section of the ej25 intake.

I created this thread so know one goes into this swap thinking it will be plug and play.
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Old 02-21-2009, 09:36 PM   #2
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How's it going to idle without an IAC? The IAC is what lets the ECU control idle speed.
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Old 02-21-2009, 09:43 PM   #3
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HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM, you bring up a very gooooood point. I guess we will see what happens when i start the car here in a couple of days...

Last edited by parkes; 02-21-2009 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 02-22-2009, 01:03 PM   #4
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Until you adjust the throttle plate to be open slightly, it won't idle. Crack it open a little bit and it will idle. You may have to help it along on cold days, until it warms up.....but you can make it work.

Jay
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Old 02-22-2009, 02:37 PM   #5
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Why 1/2 ass it that way? You're going to be setting a CEL too.
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Old 02-22-2009, 07:46 PM   #6
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lol, its not half assed. I love how you can just come on here and say that because it wasnt possible to run it anyways.

this is the biggest p.i.t.a swap ever.

The engine came from a 5spd car but the bellhousing only has one hole for the starter and along with that i cant get the engine to slide in at all PERIOD!
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Old 02-22-2009, 08:04 PM   #7
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Ur doing it wrong.

You should have just swapped the shortblock...
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:32 PM   #8
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ummmmmmmm i dont think this bellhousing is lining up correctly... the ej25 has a significant amount less bolt holes then my 2.5rs tranny
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:41 PM   #9
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All of the bell housings are the same, plus or minus bolt holes. They are all cross compatible, but if you have more bolts than you do holes you just don't use all of them.
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Old 02-25-2009, 11:37 AM   #10
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I agree, you should have just swapped short blocks. Why put that horrible 25D in there anyway? I hope it at least has new headgaskets.
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Old 02-25-2009, 05:42 PM   #11
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yes swap the shortblock on OIl depreived heads. Plus the Phase 1 ej25 coolent passages dont line up with the phase 2 ej22 heads
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:17 PM   #12
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I vote for not swapping the shortblock. The compression ratio is way off if you do.

I am working on a similar swap - phase 1 ej25 complete except with phase 2 block and STI headgaskets into a phase 1 EJ22 car. I will swap to the new smaller AC compressor and use a turbo oil pump for higher volume. That will be mating to a 98 Outback 4eat which has 4.44 finals! I call it my frankenbeater
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
lol, its not half assed. I love how you can just come on here and say that because it wasnt possible to run it anyways.
You remember that comment when it stalls every time you turn on the AC or turn the steering wheel to the end of it's travel or how it idles real slow (if at all) when you have the cooling fans and heater fan running at the same time. It's not like the IAC does nothing.

Are you saying the old setup didn't have an IAC so, you just removed it? Or that the IAC is so different that the current ECU can't drive it? Even my old carbureted cars had a solenoid that would kick up the idle when the engine was under additional load.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:20 PM   #14
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O my here we go, here comes another know it all.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ciper View Post
I vote for not swapping the shortblock. The compression ratio is way off if you do.
Right. 10.8:1 just breaks the bank when you've got to buy midgrade. I've built about half a dozen of these to date and they all run like they came that way from the factory.

Personally this swap being done here makes no sense to me at all. I guess sometimes you build with what you've got on hand, but this is one of those configurations that is more trouble than it's worth. For a little money more, and by little I mean another $100-150 or so, this can be done rather simply without all these sensor compatibility issues. I would have just HCF'd the car.
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:53 PM   #16
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School me Parks.

How does the engine idle under varying loads?
Why can't you hook up the IAC?

I'd really like to know.
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:58 PM   #17
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HCF= High Compression Frankenstein'd

As for the IAC issues, they can be drivable. I lived with mine for a long time now....It idles higher than normal when there's no electrical load, and idles slightly higher when at full electrical load. Highbeams, defrost, fan on full, radio, cigerette lighter heating up, etc.... I don't have AC anymore....so that's a non-issue for me.

What I did find out though....the 99EJ22 IAC is still not compatable with the older 3 wire IAC type ECUs. It doesn't have an open-power-close setup. It's open-power-ground. The ECU will open it, but it won't close until you key off the ignition.

The 6 wire stepper IAC is a complete mess.....unless you want to build a PWM stepper motor controller and wire it between the ECU and IAC.

The bolt on IAC's from 98 and similar years can be made to work if you fab up a plate and weld a tube to feed the manifold somewhere after the TB. That's alot of work though.....I'm fine with a higher idle.....

Jay Storm
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Old 02-26-2009, 09:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
School me Parks.

How does the engine idle under varying loads?
Why can't you hook up the IAC?

I'd really like to know.
Know i didnt mean i knew more than you...
I made i Epic fail of a mistake and the ej25 i got was dirt cheap and after reading numerous threads i thought it would be a straight swap, i have already gone down this route so i cant turn back.
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:06 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
HCF= High Compression Frankenstein'd

As for the IAC issues, they can be drivable. I lived with mine for a long time now....It idles higher than normal when there's no electrical load, and idles slightly higher when at full electrical load. Highbeams, defrost, fan on full, radio, cigerette lighter heating up, etc.... I don't have AC anymore....so that's a non-issue for me.

What I did find out though....the 99EJ22 IAC is still not compatable with the older 3 wire IAC type ECUs. It doesn't have an open-power-close setup. It's open-power-ground. The ECU will open it, but it won't close until you key off the ignition.

The 6 wire stepper IAC is a complete mess.....unless you want to build a PWM stepper motor controller and wire it between the ECU and IAC.

The bolt on IAC's from 98 and similar years can be made to work if you fab up a plate and weld a tube to feed the manifold somewhere after the TB. That's alot of work though.....I'm fine with a higher idle.....

Jay Storm

Ya thats why i just deleted it. I looked a some wiring diagrams and was like HELL no!
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:50 AM   #20
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That makes sense. You run into that with Honda's too. 2 and 3 wire IAC's. What you need is some dash board mounted knob that lets you manually adjust the IAC...
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Old 02-26-2009, 12:55 PM   #21
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I have an IAC attached to the end of my ankle....

Jay
Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
That makes sense. You run into that with Honda's too. 2 and 3 wire IAC's. What you need is some dash board mounted knob that lets you manually adjust the IAC...
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:44 PM   #22
parkes
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Lol, kinda got delayed because when i was putting TRYING to put the motor in the clutch fork to throwout bearing clips magicaly disappeared so i went to the city and fetched some. I sure hope i can get it to slide in tommorow.
From there i can get everything running in a couple hours and thats if everything goes accordingly....
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:14 AM   #23
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I just did a ej25 install in an outback. I found if I put a jack under the tranny to support it, disconnect the upper transmission mount and jack up the tranny a lot more it was easier to clear the motor mounts. There are 2 locating pins on the tranny/motor they can be a bit tricky. The lower driver side engine bolt I found I could only get to if I disnonnected the left cv axle. The other 3 bolts weren't too bad. I ended up putting the motor in and the rear main leaked realllly bad, almost ran the motor out of oil. Turns out I drove the oil seal too far in (recomend you don't do that). So had to take it back out. The next attempt I got the motor in and realized I hadn't tightened the flywheel bolts. Third try was the charm.
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Old 02-27-2009, 09:57 AM   #24
parkes
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ya i WAS Going to try that, i will give it a shot. It is just hard to put a motor in when it is -22 here....
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