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Old 03-03-2009, 10:28 PM   #1
si12j12
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Default I have been out of the "game" need help & advise

I was really into the car audio scene back in high school .
Like most high school teens i didnt have much money but had
some stuff to play with.

Years later i wanted some bass so i installed an amp and a single
10" . The sound was not very good so i uninstalled it couple days later,
granted it was hooked up to stock MY04 wrx head unit.


I have paid off the car and have some money for audio upgrades
but need some help picking the head unit , amp , speakers.

My Goal: To have a very clear sounding set up , for listening to
vocals and instrumental , but i do NOT want harsh highs or thundery bass.

What im looking for in Head unit:

-Ipod connectivity
-3 preamp output(front,rear,sub)
-maybe HD-Radio
-Nice display that shows song title, ect

Speakers:

Front:

-i was thinking on going with components ,
-something not too expensive
( i can get infinity kappa 60.9 , or alpine R cheap)

Rear:
Anything coax that wont require too much work

Amp:
-4 channel
-Mono sub amp

matching lookswise.

Sub
-10" (for custom fiberglass enclosure or AI enclosure)

Budget :
-Under 1000


I really have no idea on what to get so i leave the picking and matching to
the audio people here, any comments , suggestions welcomed.
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:07 PM   #2
Uncanny
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Pioneer Deck (DEH-P4000UB or higher), 3 sets of 4v preouts, usb/ipod connectivity, OEL display.

Alpine Components will work wonderfully, so will anything along the lines of Polk DB, Eclipse SC, Pioneer TS-D

Keep the rears stock. (you can barely hear them and really arent worth the investment)

4 channel amp, amp the front components, bridge the rear two channels to a single 4ohm 10 or 12 inch sub.

Price breakdown:
Pioneer HU: 150
Front components: 100
Amp: 150
Sub: 100
Total: 500 before parts. beat THAT!

Thrown in 50 bucks for some Raammat/Dynamat to help with the front doors, 50 bucks for a wiring kit, 50 for some good RCA's, and you STILL have a bunch of cash left over for hookers n blow.
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:10 PM   #3
punk
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Also keep in mind the price of the enclosure. The 10" AI is an additional $300 (well worth it though!!).
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:15 PM   #4
Uncanny
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I'd build my own MDF/fiberglass enclosure for under 100
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Old 03-04-2009, 12:16 AM   #5
si12j12
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Yea, im thinking on building my own fiberglas box .

Any brands i should be looking at , as far as sub and amp?
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:10 AM   #6
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op your 1st post contains all the info we need to get you info that you want..good job! but here is what i recommend -

go to as many audio stores as you can with your fav. cd and listen listen listen..we can't tell you what sounds best to you. your on the right track though!
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:40 AM   #7
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ijb2105 View Post
Pioneer Deck (DEH-P4000UB or higher), 3 sets of 4v preouts, usb/ipod connectivity, OEL display.

Alpine Components will work wonderfully, so will anything along the lines of Polk DB, Eclipse SC, Pioneer TS-D

Keep the rears stock. (you can barely hear them and really arent worth the investment)

4 channel amp, amp the front components, bridge the rear two channels to a single 4ohm 10 or 12 inch sub.

Price breakdown:
Pioneer HU: 150
Front components: 100
Amp: 150
Sub: 100
Total: 500 before parts. beat THAT!

Thrown in 50 bucks for some Raammat/Dynamat to help with the front doors, 50 bucks for a wiring kit, 50 for some good RCA's, and you STILL have a bunch of cash left over for hookers n blow.
That's a sweet breakdown man... 50$ for RCAs is a bit much i'd say.. If you buy, say for instance, the proper Kicker wiring kit, you can get either a 2ch set or a 4ch set with the kit...

Something to consider for the OP... Kicker wiring kits rule.. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1624556
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:42 AM   #8
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by si12j12 View Post
I was really into the car audio scene back in high school .
Like most high school teens i didnt have much money but had
some stuff to play with.

Years later i wanted some bass so i installed an amp and a single
10" . The sound was not very good so i uninstalled it couple days later,
granted it was hooked up to stock MY04 wrx head unit.


I have paid off the car and have some money for audio upgrades
but need some help picking the head unit , amp , speakers.

My Goal: To have a very clear sounding set up , for listening to
vocals and instrumental , but i do NOT want harsh highs or thundery bass.

What im looking for in Head unit:

-Ipod connectivity
-3 preamp output(front,rear,sub)
-maybe HD-Radio
-Nice display that shows song title, ect

Speakers:

Front:

-i was thinking on going with components ,
-something not too expensive
( i can get infinity kappa 60.9 , or alpine R cheap)

Rear:
Anything coax that wont require too much work

Amp:
-4 channel
-Mono sub amp

matching lookswise.

Sub
-10" (for custom fiberglass enclosure or AI enclosure)

Budget :
-Under 1000


I really have no idea on what to get so i leave the picking and matching to
the audio people here, any comments , suggestions welcomed.
I gotta say man, after as many years as i've been here, doing this, it's always a pleasure to read a "noob'ish" post like this...

It definitly makes our lives easier and makes it sooooooooooo much easier to help you out...

Any other noobs reading this, take this as an example...
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Old 03-04-2009, 09:20 AM   #9
Uncanny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by si12j12 View Post
Yea, im thinking on building my own fiberglas box .

Any brands i should be looking at , as far as sub and amp?
Subs are all completely subjective -but look along the lines of Alpine, Kicker, JL (overpriced), Eclipse....there are too many to list.

As far as an amp is concerned, you want to find one that puts out something around 75-100w RMS (for most of the speakers i listed) per channel. Kicker, Alpine, JL, Eclipse, Pioneer.... They all put out great amps.

My current setup is this:
Eclipse AVN 6620
Eclipse SC6500 Components
Stock Rear
Eclipse XA4100 Amp (4ch)
Eclipse 12" Sub/sealed enclosure

It's clean, accurate, and exactily what I wanted for a setup (it took me 2 years to decide on this system)
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Old 03-04-2009, 12:07 PM   #10
Back Road Runner
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Pioneer DEH-P800PRS - awesome HU, does more then you could image, will grow with you.

Pioneer TS-C720PRS - very good component setup, neutral and well balanced, highs are mild but with some sparkle. The woofer of this set is very good.

Power Acoustics BAMF1600/4 - 150w rms x 4 for more then enough power, can be bridged to 360w rms, so 2 channels can run a mild subwoofer setup.

Dayton Referene Series RSS315HF - squeaky clean sounding sub, excellent build quality and engineering and a very affordable price, well geared for low wattage and fits in a 1.5 cu.ft. box.
or
DIYMA Reference 12" - the most transparent sub you'll ever hear, cheap, exceptional build quality, exceptional sound, geared for less than 1 cu.ft. enclosures.

Box - PerfectFit for $300 or build your own or cheap prefab for $30-$50.

Pricing:
DEH-P800PRS - $300 (ebay)
TS-C720PRS - $280 (ebay)
BAMF1600/4 - $130 (ebay)
RSS315HF/DIYMA12 - $130 (partsexpress) / $150 (ebay)
Enclosure - $300 (audio integrations) / $40 (home depot)
Wiring Kit - $30 (walmart)

Total - $910 to $1180


Does your budget of $1000 include the purchase of the Audio Integration's enclosure? The build quality is outstanding, but the prices is too. Willing to build your own? Does it have to be very small? The sub choice will depend upon what you're willing to fit. I will suggest that you go with as large a sub as possible. Even some 15" subs will fit and operate very well in smallish enclosures around 1.5 cu.ft. Stuff gets a little harder when you start talking sub 1.0 cu.ft. sizes. I'll say to avoid 10" unless you absolutely can't fit a 12". I'll say the same for a 15" versus 12". Larger is better, if you can fit it. If you're stuck with an eclosure less then 1 cu.ft., I'll point you towards DIYMA's Reference 12" sub:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Diyma-Sound-Qual...3%3A1|294%3A50
It's geared for an enclosure size of 0.5 cu.ft., so it will work very well in a PerfectFit enclosure. I'm uncertain about mounting depth and magnet diameter allowances of the PerfectFit box though. Maybe just mount the sub inverse if there are issues. PerfectFit or self build is up to you. It's $300 but really well built. A simple, square MDF box will run you about $30-$40 in parts max. That choice is up to you.



Quote:
Originally Posted by si12j12 View Post
but i do NOT want harsh highs...

( i can get infinity kappa 60.9...)
Talk about an oxymoron. Yeah, avoid Infinity, period. Well, their VQ subs are neat, but that's about it.
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Old 03-04-2009, 12:30 PM   #11
Uncanny
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^^^ after ALL that you recommended a walmart wiring kit? SERIOUSLY DOOD?

Good, high strand count power wire is critical to reducing voltage drop. Good, properly built RCA's help with noise reduction and signal loss. Don't cheap out on a power kit.

Kicker makes a great setup for power.
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:12 PM   #12
Back Road Runner
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Pshh, wire is wire. Most variations in wire are so minimal that they really don't matter, at all. Feel free to work through the numbers and figure out the miniscule variations for yourself. All it needs to do is support the current load. That's basically it. About the only thing you might want to do is invest in good RCAs, ones that are actually shielded rather then just the twisted pair. However, you generally don't pick up much noise through them if at all if you place them appropriately, and the twisted pair works just fine.

I'll say 90% of the sound is speaker choice. The other 10% goes towards HU and amps, basically do they color, distort, introduce noise, mess up the frequency response, etc. or not?

The car's cabin plays a big roll in the noise floor and introducing secondary audio sources (vibrations). Sound deadening products are needed to address this.

Speaker location and aiming can also degrade from the end presentation if done poorly. The car environment isn't a great place to shove speakers, so there are compromises. A number of things can be fixed through processing features, but it begins to require some advanced work like running the system active and using time alignment and independent driver attenuation, and even independent EQs to get things right. Most can be addressed initially through install location and aiming so you don't need so much processing later.

When it finally comes down to wire affecting sound, wire simply is so NOT influential. The only thing that can really happen on a significant level is the introduction of noise. Some folks run a power wire directly from the battery to the HU. A power wire is always run directly from the battery to the amps. RCAs are run away from power wires. You do what you can to ensure no pick up of noise. Beyond that, wire is wire and will do 99.99% the same job no matter what it is made of. The only limitation in choice is that it has to be thick enough to support the current flow without heating up and posing a fire hazard. The high strand count wire is used because it's flexible. It's simply easier to work with. Similar for the casing. Is the plastic/silicon casing sufficiently flexible, thick, durable? Most wiring kits are decent enough not to matter.
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Old 03-04-2009, 11:33 PM   #13
si12j12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back Road Runner View Post


Talk about an oxymoron. Yeah, avoid Infinity, period. Well, their VQ subs are neat, but that's about it.

thanx for the input and advise guys

i will avoid the infinity components , i just figured they would be a possibility because i can get them for ~70 dollars.
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Old 03-05-2009, 01:32 AM   #14
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There are other options you might want to look at in the $70 price range. However, with a $1k budget, you can get away with some much nicer gear. If you were saying you could only spend $500, then things would get tighter and more budget oriented components might be preferable. With $1k, you just don't have to.
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Old 03-05-2009, 03:07 AM   #15
si12j12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back Road Runner View Post
There are other options you might want to look at in the $70 price range. However, with a $1k budget, you can get away with some much nicer gear. If you were saying you could only spend $500, then things would get tighter and more budget oriented components might be preferable. With $1k, you just don't have to.
its not exactly 1k thats maybe the most i can spend but im thinking
i might want something like pioneer avic f500bt or similar but that might be over my budget , im a little unsure what type of head unit i want.
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Old 03-05-2009, 07:19 AM   #16
Uncanny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by si12j12 View Post
its not exactly 1k thats maybe the most i can spend but im thinking
i might want something like pioneer avic f500bt or similar but that might be over my budget , im a little unsure what type of head unit i want.
The AVIC-F500BT is not a head unit, it is an on dash navigation device (i.e. doesn't replace your radio). The unit you should be looking in to, and I believe actually meant was the AVIC-F700BT, which can be had for about 350 bucks on Amazon. That IS an in dash unit.

Back Road Runner, my only issue with crappy power wire from Wal-mart is you don't actually know what you are running, 4awg to them is 6awg (at the very most) to the rest of the world. They use crappy wire that oxidizes quickly (if there's ANY moisture in the air/vehicle it WILL oxidize) which greatly increases resistance through the power wire. Also, Wal-mart kits generally have cheap, crappy fuse holders that crack or fail. I'll post a picture of a nicely melted one if youd like.

As insignificant as power wire may be, you still want good wire. An 8awg Kicker power kit will be better than ANY 4awg Wal-mart kit.
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:52 AM   #17
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check into elemental designs stuff, it's all direct and their amps are good and onsale(not too flashy but very good quality) currently they don't have a 12 inch sub on the market, just a MASSIVE 13av.2(1200watts, not what you're looking for) but they will have some 12's shortly as they just discontinued their old line and are about to come out with their new one.

(lol, and no i don't work for them, just a good company, i used to work at an install shop too, all the ed stuff has a 5 year warranty, no BS from those guys)
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