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Old 04-10-2009, 05:29 PM   #76
wishicoulddrift
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I am assuming that people are beginning to admit that it is a difficult, and skillful motorsport, and is not all out burnouts and doughnuts...

...Also, as vain as this sounds... I think people have seen the amount of time and effort that is going into this car, so it isnt like a person welding thier center diff, and driving around with a R160 that is going to explode at any moment... For some enthusiast, ignorance is bliss when building a car.

-Stephen
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Old 04-10-2009, 08:15 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishicoulddrift View Post
I am assuming that people are beginning to admit that it is a difficult, and skillful motorsport, and is not all out burnouts and doughnuts...

...Also, as vain as this sounds... I think people have seen the amount of time and effort that is going into this car, so it isnt like a person welding thier center diff, and driving around with a R160 that is going to explode at any moment... For some enthusiast, ignorance is bliss when building a car.

-Stephen
The "drift king" of japan was professional race car driver as are many drifters.

its the same with fmx in motocross..people are always talking **** saying its not a real sport when all of the top guys at one point were ex-national level racers

people

we want video of this thing running and of course..drifting!
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:52 AM   #78
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omg dude best thread iv bin in by far nice n that colors great
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:51 PM   #79
wishicoulddrift
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Soooooo, I have hit a bit of a snag...

The drivelne shop that was going to be making my axles, called me yesterday to tell me that the job was way over thier head... Reason being, the nissan axles have 3 ball CVs and the subaru have 6 ball CVs.

So yesterday i spent my day looking up information, and calling everyone from Moser to the driveshaft shop on the other side of the country to get axles figured out...

I ended up with quotes from $1600-$1800, which is quite different from what i saw from mranlets thread on here. And he wont respond to my PMs, so i tried to figure out an alternative...

When looking at some S15 Silvia hubs, it appeared as though they just might bolt on, which would allow me to use the stock s13 axles with the R200 differential. This seemed like a promising solution to spending 2k on axles, so we took off the calipers and the rotors, and i found out one of Subarus ****ty little secrets....



I guess i havent been around subarus enough to know that they had a drum style ebrake behind the rotor... This completely made my idea impossible without redoing the whole braking system, and a number of other custom parts... So now i am back at square one, with only 2weeks before the first points competition of the drifting season...

Since there is a picture of my fabricator flipping-off a subaru part, i might as well do tha same to the Nissan part that wouldnt work either....


If anyone has any suggestions, or can get a hold of mranlet for me, that would be awesome!

-Stephen
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Old 04-14-2009, 01:22 PM   #80
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i would have assumed that you would have re done the braking system any way

can the drum system and go for a hydro parking brake ala rally car
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Old 04-14-2009, 01:48 PM   #81
wishicoulddrift
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yeah, that was a thought...

i think i have officially started the snowball effect. Im trying to find solutions to one problem, while creating another issue, then finding a solution to that issue...and again and again and again....
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:20 PM   #82
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I'm still wondering why you just didn't do an R180 with some off the shel DSS or stock Ver 4-6 STi RA axles...?
You'd have to work really hard to pop the R180...I know as it what I was flogging on when my car was RWD.

Oh, did I mention that its a bolt in process that takes less than an afternoon?...

on the helpful side, you may want to try gator axles down in FL.
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:36 PM   #83
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My method of thinking stems from my belief that if it is the option that team orange, and many other Japanese tuners for RWD competition Imprezas, that there is probably a reason for it. If there was an easier way to go about it, and make it strong enough to handle the power, wouldnt they be running it? Im not saying that it wont last a while, but i dont like re-doing things later on and have to end up spending the same amount just over a longer period of time. Also, impreza CVs arent meant to handle 300hp... they WILL pop at some point if drifted on regularly.

-Stephen
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:39 PM   #84
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like I said, I had DSS (stage 5) axles so they were plenty strong...now they just sit in my storage unit as I'm on full GD STi running gear now. the only weaklink I had found with my extremely abusive 10k miles of RWD abuse (rollbacks, smoking tires pretty much any chance I had and tires would last about 3 months) at 300whp on a mustang (stock 05 was making 205whp) was the factory driveshaft...be it I was using a shaft with 150k miles on it as well...the u-joints were still loose when I pulled it off.

Cryo-treating an R180 probably would help it live longer as well. I know they seem to last fairly well in 600+whp applications.

Regardless, don't take this as bashing so much as me showing another 'easier' alternative for anyone else who might be getting scared by seeing all the work and 'headache' the R200 swap seems to be causing.

I do see your point though. If you're drifting a 450whp GC (can you say overkill) I could see your reasoning that the R180 may decided to just quit and require $200 and another 2 hours to install its replacement.
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Old 04-14-2009, 04:28 PM   #85
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I appreciate the criticism, and the points you are making, as i agree, they may help people in the future!

from what i saw on the site, those axles are about $1200(500whp,r160 => r180 conversion axles)... the ones to make the r200 fit are roughly $1600-$1800, and i already have a diff that i know i will never have to worry about breaking. So in your opinion, would it appear economic to buy the ones to mate the R200? To me it seems like it would be, especially since no one REALLY knows how long an R180 would hold up to constant drift abuse.

-Stephen
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Old 04-14-2009, 04:52 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishicoulddrift View Post
I appreciate the criticism, and the points you are making, as i agree, they may help people in the future!

from what i saw on the site, those axles are about $1200(500whp,r160 => r180 conversion axles)... the ones to make the r200 fit are roughly $1600-$1800, and i already have a diff that i know i will never have to worry about breaking. So in your opinion, would it appear economic to buy the ones to mate the R200? To me it seems like it would be, especially since no one REALLY knows how long an R180 would hold up to constant drift abuse.

-Stephen
I'm no expert of any of this, but I do have some general advice....

It seems like every option costs a pretty penny, but you are nearly done with your original plan. At this point it seems like you should see it through and just build a hydro e-brake. You worked out pretty much all the other problems. Once you are done this path you should have a "set it and forget it" driveline.

...besides a hydraulic e-brake has to feel pretty darn good. Go pick an appropriately sized master cyl for it and you will be able to effortlessly lock up the rear.
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:18 PM   #87
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i vote hydro ebrake

(how hard is it to change wheel bearing if you're able to use the nissan hubs?)
That might be one advantage as wheel bearing are a pita on subarus...
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:42 PM   #88
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sounds sweet. I cant see the darn pictures thanks to a proxy here on the ship but will check them out later.
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Old 04-15-2009, 01:21 PM   #89
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Hey man wishicoulddrift you going to be out this weekend at the drift day if so we can shoot the *****, why don't you just weld the shafts together make a coupler and mill the coup to press fit in to both sides shouldn't need balancing its on the slowest of the rotating mass and should be close as anything else I don't think it would cost more than 200 I don't know worst case make your car 700hp and awd drift haha hit me up.
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Old 04-15-2009, 04:23 PM   #90
wishicoulddrift
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Im not going to be out there as my car will not be done... i should be out there week after next if i can get this axle issue worked out by then. But yeah, if you ware ever there we should definitely meet, as you have already met my car and all!

I just wrote Kumakubo, and the team orange tech guys an email, so i will see if i can generate a response from them before i cough up the money for the axles...

-Stephen
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Old 04-15-2009, 04:54 PM   #91
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I say man few hrs on a lathe you can make your own just use Nissan inner and subie outer
there all cores you have right? chop them up and weld them together with a good size
coupler I have some 4130 from some of my subie stuff ill give you. that could get you on
the road quick till you find out what you need or want or step up in knuckles. hell pop that
stocker diff for fun.
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Old 04-15-2009, 04:59 PM   #92
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Hmm ring up some bearing company's and see if you can fit a bearing for Nissan hub in
Subaru and rig up a hydro brake there nothing just get a 240 clutch master with the off set
two bolt they make life easy tap the top hole for the line in and then use the line out done
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:51 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishicoulddrift View Post
I appreciate the criticism, and the points you are making, as i agree, they may help people in the future!

from what i saw on the site, those axles are about $1200(500whp,r160 => r180 conversion axles)... the ones to make the r200 fit are roughly $1600-$1800, and i already have a diff that i know i will never have to worry about breaking. So in your opinion, would it appear economic to buy the ones to mate the R200? To me it seems like it would be, especially since no one REALLY knows how long an R180 would hold up to constant drift abuse.

-Stephen
wow, the prices have gone up and power rating down ...in that case, rock out the R200

What is preventing you from mating the two axles together? i'm a bit fuzzy on that...what is the difference in splines for the cv's?
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Old 04-16-2009, 02:36 PM   #94
wishicoulddrift
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the conversation on here, and a shop that this user refered me to has made me hold of on a cut and weld solution.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1742414

-Stephen
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Old 04-18-2009, 11:37 PM   #95
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Sweet Husaberg. I borrowed an 09 from a dealer buddy last month and raced a 100 mile enduro on it, awesome machine (but I'll never give up my 08 XCW 2 smoke). You know what I'm talking about! The photo with you driving with no doors made me laugh out loud, fun thread.
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Old 04-21-2009, 02:39 PM   #96
wishicoulddrift
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alright, now the part that im sure most people have been waiting for....

the rear subframe work!

Last night Ray got the front mounts for the diff worked out, as well as the entire rear subframe work done.

Here is an artsy photo Ray took while mocking up the rear subframe....




The front, i believe mustache bar, was utilized for the two mounting points of the R200






As you can see, there had to be a little bit of reinforcemnt, as tabs with a nut and bolt combo would just not be sturdy enough. We are also thinking about capping off the back of the bar as it is just c-shaped and is fairly dainty looking

The rear subframe had a lot of material in the way...So some it it was cut out


After cutting it out there was all sorts of room for fitting things where they shouldnt go!


The rear mounts proved to be a pain, as my 4-bolt rear cover is larger and the bolts cover more area than the 2-bolt version. So the diff is raised higher than most who have done this swap before, and the back plate hangs down a butt-hair parst the edge of the subframe.



Another little trouble maker is tha gas tank. the new mounts hit normally, but a little help with the rubber mallot and ta-da!!!! just like magic, the problem disappears!



Initially we were also worried about clearance of this brace and the axle bolts... but life is peachy kean!


Another clearance issue was with the front lateral link on the drivers side. since the diff is offset to one side, it causes issues with one side but not the other on a couple of things. In this case, the bolt hits the CV boot, which would cause ware where we dont want it. So there is a fix... (read comment in picture below)

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Old 04-21-2009, 02:39 PM   #97
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Once everything was mocked up, Ray pulled everything out again for the 54th time, and did the final boxing in and welding...



be then cleaned the subframe, and called it a night...

I will be going by the shop tonight to take pictures of everything installed.

Here is a picture with the new "badge" installed. I like it. A little different than the "stars" and "i".



-Stephen
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Old 04-21-2009, 11:16 PM   #98
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Nice n pricey badge ya got there
I'm guessing c/f will help u go faster
Nice project !
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Old 04-22-2009, 03:09 AM   #99
wishicoulddrift
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Yup, that badge will give me at LEAST 40whp! And reduce drag by 60%! lol

thanks man

-Stephen
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Old 04-22-2009, 03:27 AM   #100
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what kinda grey?
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