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Old 12-17-2009, 08:32 PM   #76
2shea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid gti 2 View Post
Been thinking of making some for my rpm sub frame. Where would I get the sheet metal?
onlinemetals.com sells aluminum sheets for cheaper than anywhere else I've seen. Check out the web for deals near you. Just remember that the stronger the metal you use the thinner and lighter of a piece you can use for the same protection. The last thing any of us wants is extra weight up front in an already front heavy car. I know "Opinions are like ********. Everyone got one and no one wants to here yours." but just do the research and find out what is right for your budget and skill set and you can't go wrong. If I was Bill Gates I would use titanium. Paul Allen stainless steel. But I think aluminum fits most budgets.
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Old 12-17-2009, 10:46 PM   #77
hybrid gti 2
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yea I think aluminum is fine. I just want to protect the engine area.
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:50 PM   #78
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bump this because I'm about to make mine..



One thing I didn't see mentioned here is that the more rigid to aluminum is, the more likely it is to crack and break. Personally I would want my skid plate to bend if I hit something, rather than crack, and transfer all the shock to the mounting points. I experienced this first hand with sti aluminum control arms, I hit a curb, and instead of bending the damn thing just snapped in half.


Also, I may be wrong, but I believe 4000 series, and 6000 series aluminum is heat treated. So welding it would ruin the heat treating.


I'm thinking either 3003 or 5052 @ 3/16".. looks like onlinemetals only has 5052 in that thickness, so I might use that if I can't find it cheaper locally.



Does anyone think it would be worth it to hammer dimples into the skidplate? I know some cars are using dimpled underbodys now to improve aerodynamics. I suppose it would probably be pointless work, just wondering what people's thoughts are..
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:03 PM   #79
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dimpling probably won't have much is any noticeable or measurable effect...not worth the effort.

Do you think you will be in many situations where you will actually puncture a 3/16" sheet, I mean short of hopping on some small boulders?? Not being a D, just posing a question. It's gonna take a good bit of concentrated force to get through it. Even then, the sheet won't tear. If anything you'll put a patchable hole on it.

However, it seems harder doesn't necessarily mean brittle....it normal climate. 6061 T6 has a shear strength of 30,000 psi, 3003 is generally 23,000 psi at best.

Something to think about


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Old 02-25-2010, 01:29 AM   #80
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Well, 1/8" would probably be fine for me.. I'll just have to see what I can find for cheap locally.

It's not like I plan on hitting anything, but I just had my motor rebuilt, and my headers wrapped.. I had to drive it 100 miles and change the oil for analysis. Between one evening, and the next afternoon, 100 miles, my header wrap is torn to shreds . Which tells me a skid plate is a must. (I was being extra careful not to hit anything)


Really, I just need something to keep water and debris from spraying into the engine compartment, and keep road debris from f***ing up my header wrap.


(right now my headers have about 2" ground clearance, but I'm sure it will be a little better as soon as I switch to my backup suspension while I'm waiting for my coilovers to be overhauled)
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:42 AM   #81
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indeed.....unless you are offroading...you wont need to go nutso. I made a 1/8" 6061 sheet....and feel good about it. Don't get mislead by it being 1/8"....its SOLID. Pick up a 3.5'x3.5' sheet.....you'll feel it. It ways a good 10-15 lbs or so

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Old 02-25-2010, 01:51 AM   #82
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I'm sure 3003 will be plenty strong as well.. I'll just have to see what I can find for the best price.

Is 3.5' wide enough? I'm wanting to cover as much as possible. I was thinking about starting with a 3'x4', but if I could get away with 3'x3.5'x1/8" of 3003 that shouldn't cost too much.
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:26 AM   #83
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i had a 3.5'x3.5' sheet...trimmed the front a bit and the back half corners and it was good....it's about 3.5' rail to rail, measuring from the outsides. The front is notched to accommodate my lightbar and is a tad long (tuck on the inside of the bottom of the bumper)




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Old 02-25-2010, 08:53 PM   #84
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I made mine last weekend out of .071 thick 7075 T6. It is super light at about five pounds. I beat the hell out of the pieces I cut off to test it and it is plenty strong. Also I jacked up the car with the skid plate and it didn't even leave a mark or a bend. It's 3' x 4' and fits staight under the front bumper without bending which is cool because it takes a super strong break to bend this stuff. I will take a picture when I change my oil next time and post it.
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:19 PM   #85
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BTW, if anyone's going to order online, this place is considerably cheaper than onlinemetals.com.


http://www.onlinemetalstore.com/item...omments=&qty=1
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Old 03-30-2010, 06:51 PM   #86
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Finally bought my aluminum. I drove to Discount Steel in Ft. Worth and picked up a drops piece of 1/8" 5052, 4' x 3' for $40. If there's anyone else out there wondering where they can get aluminum sheet at a reasonable price I highly recommend calling Discount Steel and asking if they can send you a drops sheet of whatever you want. I believe 5052 was $1.70/pound.
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Old 04-13-2012, 04:29 PM   #87
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Lol I'm just imagining a cop pulling somebody over and wanting to check under the hood only to see a street sign bolted to the bottom of the car hahahaha!
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Old 04-13-2012, 04:40 PM   #88
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How do people find these threads from YEARS ago?
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:30 PM   #89
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By searching. I need to make a skid plate! Or just buy one
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:14 PM   #90
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im going to go to a junkyard to buy some signs soon!
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:02 PM   #91
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How do people find these threads from YEARS ago?
Its called searching O_O
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:26 PM   #92
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Sorry I don't have any better pictures.

Off with the old


And on with the new.
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:20 AM   #93
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I found this on here sometime ago.. I was about to have someone fab it up for me, but I realized that I need a cutout for my headers. If anyone can mod this diagram for a cutout for headers, that would be great; otherwise, Ill probably have them make it, plop my plastic one on top, and trace it out..
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:05 PM   #94
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You could use spacers to lower it down under the headers. Kind of pointless to put on a skid plate and purposefully put in a point of failure in it.
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:33 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregroot198521 View Post
You could use spacers to lower it down under the headers. Kind of pointless to put on a skid plate and purposefully put in a point of failure in it.
I was going to have a "spacer" area created around the headers, not space the whole thing lower.
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:06 AM   #96
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saved
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:53 AM   #97
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It's amazing what boredom in a Monday morning meeting will do for your imagination. Glad I found this thread as I'm going to give this a go.
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:37 AM   #98
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I'll put up some pics as soon as I can, but my skid plate is from a Nissan Titan, looks factory
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:05 PM   #99
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I've had thus sign on my wall for a number of years. I decided to make it more useful.

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Old 10-14-2012, 07:24 PM   #100
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doing this asap
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