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Old 03-24-2009, 01:18 PM   #1
jacky599r
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Default got my oil report....need help

Yo,

I got my oil report today and it wasnt too good.

Report as shown below:


I was right when i say my oil temps were high...
I got my tuner to flash the car and advanced a couple degrees in timing. Well, the temps were very much lower now, getting by about 94 for normal street driving instead of 100s.
From the report, i do not know if i needed a less viscous oil or simply change the brand of oil.
I used amsoil dominator 15w50 and this is a daily driven car.
Advice and comments pls.

p/s: im using motul 300v 15w50 now.
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Old 03-24-2009, 01:49 PM   #2
mick_the_ginge
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You do not match the averages for your car. I hate to leave my oil that long, the more impurities floating around the more damage that can be done. I suggest a shorter oil change interval.

Last edited by mick_the_ginge; 03-25-2009 at 12:17 AM. Reason: Horrible info
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Old 03-24-2009, 02:02 PM   #3
jacky599r
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the avg seems like its a direct copy man....this is my first time getting it done and from the report it certainly looks way off the scale...
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Old 03-24-2009, 07:56 PM   #4
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the "unit/location averages" column is a direct copy of your data because it is an avg of the data you have had through blackstone. This column is so you can establish a trend for your engine specifically. A few oil samples at safe #'s will give you a good idea of what your engine should look like so that when something does go wrong, it will stand out. since this is your first sample you sent to them, you avg's are your actual sample values. in any case you have high lead/copper #'s which is probably bearings. do you have an oil pressure gauge? I would try out a much more conservative tune or the stock tune and see what the changes are in temps and then do another sample after a few less miles than the last one. Low oil temps or broken down oil visc. could be the reason for the metal. A bad tune can kill your engine in exactly this way... id rule that out first thing.

for comparison here's my EJ253 sample... it's a DD on AmsOil 5/30 syn. I do drive the crap out of it when it's safe to do so, though. It sees redline regularly. no turbo, though so it's not a perfect comparison. but engine design and materials are almost identical so its better than nothing.



I also just noticed that the far right column, wich is universal avg's from all the samples they have seen from "this type of engine" match from our sample results. So blackstone must assume that all the subaru engines (maybe just 4cyl?) are going to have similar wear limits. In my analysis info, you see that i did specify engine model (ej253) and i also wrote on my info card that it was non turbo, but they didnt add that to the info on the sample results report. my point is that they knew mine was non turbo and still used the same "universal averages" as yours which is turbo, so that must not be a important factor in their eyes when doing an oil analysis

Last edited by RaceFaceXC; 03-24-2009 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 03-25-2009, 12:19 AM   #5
mick_the_ginge
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RaceFace is right, I was reading the wrong column in my haste. Change the oil now and take another sample in 100-200 miles. If Lead/Copper is high after just those miles you have a problem. If this was the very first oil change after building you may be ok. don't leave the oil changes so long
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Old 03-26-2009, 11:19 AM   #6
jacky599r
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wahah, i caught something in the report.
Apparently, they thought it as a weight 30 oil. Then again, nothing to be happy abt too.. here it is:

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Old 03-28-2009, 02:25 PM   #7
jacky599r
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bump for more answers....
typically how long can a race oil be used for? i run the amsoil dominator as a street driven car, is that the main issue?
Or is the viscosity too high?
Or am i seeing impending failure?
I'm currently using motul 300v 15w50 and clocked abt 1000km, drain it and send for test?
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Old 03-29-2009, 12:13 AM   #8
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Unless you have bigger clearances than stock why would you use 50 wt oil. if that is a cold climate it takes 50wt forever to warm up and thin up to lubricate properly.

Wittmer 25 has a 8 qt pan and he trys to get his oil changed before 4k miles. Race oil is not designed for the street. Thats why they call it race oil.
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Old 05-24-2009, 02:15 PM   #9
jacky599r
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heres my 2nd oil report:



This report was done using 300v 15w50. I'm prolly looking at going thinner. Advice?

Last edited by jacky599r; 05-24-2009 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:13 PM   #10
charliew
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Jacky if it's a stock clearance motor try 5w30 and watch the oil pressure if it stays at 70psi at 7k when the motor is it's hottest that viscosity will be fine. If you only have a 5qt capacity the you should be changing your oil at 3k intervals.
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:38 PM   #11
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Try a 5w-40. Rotella T produces that.

Also you dont use a race oil on the street because it has no cleaning additives.
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Old 05-24-2009, 08:26 PM   #12
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If you push your car, you should probably be running a 5w40. Especially if the temps outside are warm or hot. (assuming stock clearances)

But a 50w is too thick
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Old 05-25-2009, 12:53 AM   #13
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5w30 is a little thin for OEM and you'll end up with lower oil pressure and increased oil usage. 5w40 or 10w40 seems to be what most good Subaru workshops use and/or most builders recommend.

One engine builder over here in Australia has done quite a bit of testing on various engine oils and now swears by Mobil Delvac MX 10w40 and regular oil/filter changes for all EJxx engines. Basically it is a synth blend, high performance oil.

Best things about Mobil Delvac MX 10w40 is that it is very economical and because it is actually designed for diesel and high performance vehicles, it includes more detergents then most performance oils and as such helps to keep your engine free from sludge and carbon buildup.
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:15 PM   #14
jacky599r
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yo,

i thought 300v is a premium engine oil? Hell.... Anyhow, i couldnt get Rotella locally. The varieties are very limited... Im gonna push for w40 and do a test again.
To set the stage right, my engine is mildly built.
Wiseo 100mms with rings
STI rod bearings
Cosworth main bearings
stock crank
Eagle rods

Will that be alright?
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Old 05-25-2009, 02:32 PM   #15
charliew
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Listing the manufacturer's doesn't say anything about the clearances so we can only assume the clearances are stock. If your ambient temps are 100 or higher I would use 10w40 in any good oil. Expensive oil is ok but long intervals between changes is bad. Also if you run rotella or any other brand of diesel oil it will eventually damage a cat and o2 sensor. If you have winter temps of 20-40 df that 20/50w will never start to move till the motor is warmed up. 30w oil is too thick to measure viscosity at 32f-0c

here's some home work, learn on your own, don't take our word for motor oils

edit: get the link on post 18 it's the tundra one.

Last edited by charliew; 05-27-2009 at 01:09 AM.
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Old 05-26-2009, 09:37 AM   #16
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Typical temperatures in Singapore are 30 C (80 F), so no low temperatures starts here.
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Old 05-26-2009, 03:12 PM   #17
jacky599r
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charliew, it was a bad link.
Like wat ^he mentioned, i see 30deg c everyday 24/7.
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:45 PM   #18
charliew
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Sorry Jacky I guess it got old, This is the guy though, it's kinda long but well worth the read.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motoroil.html This is a short version for the add guys

this is the motor engineers version, It's really the one I posted above but this link works http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/tec...oil-101-a.html Part six list different brands and when to use them

Man that sounds like a great climate, now if you just had the US lifestyle and freedoms. Oh take that back look at kalifornia.

Last edited by charliew; 05-27-2009 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:35 PM   #19
jacky599r
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Gd climate?!
No joke, how abt i add 90% humidity to the equation? haha.
Anyhow, back to the topic. What are the reasons for high bearing wear rate?
Seriously contemplating the alternatives for street oil rather then race oil.
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:05 PM   #20
charliew
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50w oil will cause high bearing wear because it can't get to the bearings fast enough. Read the motor oil 101
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:37 PM   #21
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There's other posts about the high lead, several have had that. I guess some of the synthetics react with the bearings, and it reads higher lead. But it is still nothing to worry about. Mine read high (17) after an autocross or two on mobil 1 and then I used quakerstate synthetic for the winter (no racing) and it came back normal (2). Search redline and high lead to learn more..
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Old 05-28-2009, 10:32 AM   #22
jacky599r
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Alright, i've made up my mine. I'll go ahead with 10w40 or 5w40 if i can get hold of it.
Theres a coupe of choices i need u guys to help...

Motul
Amsoil
Scaheffer
Redline

Again, mild built engine that deals with 90% street and highway driving perpetually.
I'll do a test at 2000km and report back. But, need some inputs.
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Old 05-28-2009, 10:20 PM   #23
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more info?
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Old 05-28-2009, 10:25 PM   #24
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i would try the thinner oil. 15W50 is pretty thick. i run a mix of 2 qts mobil 1 0W40 and 3 qts mobil 1 15w50. engine sounds a lot better than when i had strait 15W50 in it.
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Old 05-28-2009, 10:38 PM   #25
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Mobil Delvac 10w40. It is a cheap,semisynth oil, that includes a little more detergents then mot (good for keeping the engine clean from sludge and carbon buildup). It comes highly recommended from a few engine builders in Oz and many sooby owners use it now.

The important thing to remember is to change oil frequently and especially for heavy/performance use - regardless of brand of oil used.
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