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Old 03-25-2009, 07:18 PM   #1
NicFunkadelic
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1999 RSTi + 4.44 = )
Silverthorn... for now

Default STi swap worked great for about 10 days... NEED MORE HELP

started a new thread since it's a different problem and topic.

Cliffnotes: NEW PROBLEMS: missfiring, loss of power, CEL, rough idle

After finishing the swap and getting an alignment, the car drove great. For about 2 weeks I had zero problems, no CEL's, car pulled hard (once I finished the tank of 87 going painfully slow), and stopped smelling like burnt fluids and such.

not quite.

End of week 2 I started getting a bad cut in power when approaching full boost. Felt like fuel cut, CEL came on but I stopped driving like an ass an everything was fine. CEL went away a while later. No problem.

Week 3 I'm going home from work, coasting in gear down a long hill. Come around a turn, and decide to hit the gas a bit. Nothing, no power. I press the clutch, car continues to run, but idles like crap and doesn't respond to the throttle pedal. I coast into a lot, kill the engine. Sit scratching my head for 5 minutes with the hood up looking like an idiot. Get back in, car starts up just fine, drive home with the CEL on.

Then, I went to leave for work a day or two later, and the same thing happened right from the cold start. Got a ride to work with my dad (who luckily has a very similar commute) and towed the damn thing to the dealer.

Here is what they told me:

"The issue was finally determined to be in the workmanship of the marrying of both harnesses. If we were to follow the "fault codes" we would have put in 2 new oxygen sensors, a engine control unit and throttle control unit.By code p0131,p0137,p2102.As well as other codes that were on for the turbo waste gate and intake temp sensor. After almost 3 hours of time and tracing down wiring harness we were able to determine the location of the wiring concern. While performing a wiggle test the check engine light went off and the car began to run correctly.

As explained, we found a wiring short in the harness that went through the firewall ,by the brake booster and ran through the dashboard "OVER" the steering column.This harness was run on top of the existing harness which made for an extremely tight fit."

Anyway, I left the stealership and stopped for a pack of smokes. Got stranded at the gas station with the same problem, less than 2 miles from the stealership. I looked up under the dash near the column, everything look just fine. I just installed all that **** myself a month ago or less and everything was working fine. I wiggled the wires anyway, nothing. Limped the car home, towed it to East Coast Swappers, or ECS Performance as they go by now. They're super busy. This is my daily driver. HELP!!!
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Old 03-25-2009, 07:24 PM   #2
NicFunkadelic
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Default

other things I've tried:

- resetting the ecu
- starting w/the o2 unplugged
- starting w/the maf unplugged
- checked the ecu and wiring near it, all looked fine
- fuses, all fine
- tapped each of the coils, no change

could the stealership be right? I feel like it's a bad coil, injector, or something retarded like that. Hence the intermittent nature of the issue. Wiring had crossed my mind, but everything looks fine to me, worked great till a week ago, and randomly the car will start and run just fine. DAMN IT!
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Old 03-25-2009, 07:42 PM   #3
MasterKwan
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I'm confused. They trouble-shot the problem and you don't believe them? It seems pretty plausible to me. I ran into a similar problem with my civic swap. It took a year to show up though. I ended up buying a factory harness and re-pinning the ECU connectors to match the harness. What I learned is that soldering and car harnesses don't really get along. Over time, the vibration eventually cracks the soldered connections.

When you have lots of unrelated codes, it's normally a grounding or wiring problem.
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Old 03-25-2009, 09:32 PM   #4
NicFunkadelic
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Thanks for the reply Kwan, I appreciate all the advice you guru's have given me lately

It's not that I don't believe them. The problem has been on and off since it started acting up. Sometimes I turn the key and it runs fine, I can get to where I'm going no problem. Other times it will run ok and then $hit the bed on the road, and other times it will misfire right off the bat. I guess I just assumed that the wiggling of wires could have had nothing to do with the problem going away. Half the time the problem was going away on its own without any wire wiggling. It just seemed unlikely to me, that's all. I guess I'll be pulling the dash back off this weekend just to be sure.
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Old 03-25-2009, 09:36 PM   #5
MasterKwan
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I'd do what the dealer did. Next time it screws up, reach you hand under there and wiggle the cables around.

I'm having a problem like that with my Airbags. It's pretty frustrating.
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:38 PM   #6
kaos200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
What I learned is that soldering and car harnesses don't really get along. Over time, the vibration eventually cracks the soldered connections.

Only if the wiring/soldering is shoddy, I've done 30+ Subaru harnesses, and tons of others (Nissans etc) and never had an issue.

Edit: Reading comprehension > Me Didn't see the codes at first.
As was said, check your grounds/powers.

Last edited by kaos200; 03-26-2009 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:49 AM   #7
reddevil
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Even though the knock sensor may not be throwin a code, check that.
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:00 AM   #8
sorrowfulkiller
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All I can think of is check the engine harness and the o2 sensor harness
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:22 PM   #9
Zephyr
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The dealer told you exactly what is wrong. Take a multimeter and find the circuit that has the break in it. How did you do your splices? Did you use butt connectors or did you solder? Anything done to a wiring harness should ALWAYS be soldered. Being that both o2 sensors share a common power and ground circuit start there.

Z
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