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Old 04-07-2009, 08:55 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crystal_Imprezav View Post
Lets see the exhaust side. Thats where the magic happens!
isn't that the truth...funny thing is I got my dogleg so well with my first few times going to the bench that I spent the majority of the time matching the intake to the exhaust. that and trying to get the straight port to catch up.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:12 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by bmxpunk View Post
have you had these on a flow bench yet Fuji? I would like to see what you get. also I have some ej257 and 255 heads that I may be interested in parting with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crystal_Imprezav View Post
Lets see the exhaust side. Thats where the magic happens!
Not flow tested yet. I will get the current head flow tested to see where the improvements are after I finish with the exhaust tonight. After work I'll get back into the exhaust.

There's almost a corner on the short turn side to the floor. I looked at it and I was like... eewwwWWW!!! Once that is smoothed out, it makes quite a difference. I don't want to touch the exhaust valve guide because it's HOTTER on the exhaust side than intake. Most work on the exhaust would be the valve throat area. After the valve throat area, it's pretty large in size, so you don't really need to make it BIGGER after the valve guide.

I'll get some pics later tonight. Hopefully this helps those who are porting at home as well.
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:19 PM   #28
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The STOCK STi exhaust ports sucks. I hate them. Hard to make out how much room I have before going through. What I did instead was improve the exhaust ports on cylinder #1 and will try to replicate on it on cylinder #4.





Last edited by FuJi K; 04-12-2009 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:36 AM   #29
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Valves installed. Should be interesting to see some numbers


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Old 04-24-2009, 11:59 AM   #30
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Video of the exhaust ports since I can't get a camera in there.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1VwqhwDVBE
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Old 04-26-2009, 04:17 PM   #31
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Missed some spots on the exhaust side! JK, there is that one corner on the dogleg that is impossible to get any kind of bit into.
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Old 04-26-2009, 11:11 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Crystal_Imprezav View Post
Missed some spots on the exhaust side! JK, there is that one corner on the dogleg that is impossible to get any kind of bit into.
I can touch all of the dog port...
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Old 04-27-2009, 04:14 PM   #33
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I can't ever seem to get a carbide bit into the immediate left wall of the dogleg outlet where it makes a fairly sharp turn towards the combustion chamber. If I remember correctly, I can skim it a bit and end up just smoothing it out when I get the cartrige roll to finish up the port.

Maybe I just need to remove more material prior to it to get to it
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:17 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Crystal_Imprezav View Post
I can't ever seem to get a carbide bit into the immediate left wall of the dogleg outlet where it makes a fairly sharp turn towards the combustion chamber. If I remember correctly, I can skim it a bit and end up just smoothing it out when I get the cartrige roll to finish up the port.

Maybe I just need to remove more material prior to it to get to it
^^^^ That's pretty much how the process has to be with hand porting, IMO. One step at a time. It's hard to shape these STi heads to be like the WRX heads. What I can do is just make it smoother and make the DOGLEG side smoother flowing to match the straight exhaust port.

The carbide bits I'm using are 6" bits shanks. I cut off 1.5" so it doesn't vibrate as my Makita's lowest rpm is 7000rpms.

How are you getting at the Dog Leg, Homemade WRX?
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:25 PM   #35
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I am also using both 6" and standard non-ferrous carbide bits as well as the same combo in Dremel size carbide bits to cater to the STi's cavities.

I guess when it is all said and done, I like most others w/o CNC's and the balls to destroy a set of STI heads you own/paid for effects your judgment. I have two sets I often swap and flow to to play around with flow and refuse to let myself cut into a coolant chamber.

I will also say that, with each round of porting on my heads, I have improved my performance a ton. Truth be told, I haven't touched my intake ports since my first round of porting and with every pass of the exhaust ports, performance has jumped ridiculously. One huge characteristic I have noticed, especially with the dogleg is to my each bowl/out as oval as humanly possible. I'm sure all the head guru's will say duh, but I have to try everything out on my own.
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:31 PM   #36
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My next adventure is to seek options in reshaping or unshrouding the valves and/or combustion chamber. I was speaking with one of my machine shop guys a few months back while getting my heads decked and he showed me a old set of ej22 heads before and after minor unshrouding of the valves (literally a new set of heads he was working on in front of me) and the flow increase was amazing, but this is not so say it will help in a real world application. You got me a bit motivated again lol. I have had my other set of heads sitting on the bench for the past few months since I have been happy with their performance. I will post up any findings if their are any.
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:39 PM   #37
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I use 6" carbide bits, Standard Abrasives deluxe porting kit and a few various other flap wheels.

3/4" cartridge roll on the 4" mandrel usually reaches it easily to simply clean up the casting. I don't remove much from that side of the dogleg. It doesn't help get the exhaust out of the head.
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Old 04-28-2009, 09:27 PM   #38
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I just dropped off the heads at the Machine shop here (DG Motors) and I'll pick them up either tomorrow night or Thursday. Let see what the work cut out to be. Not really looking at high numbers from the exhaust because they have smaller valve bowls than the WRX heads. Also the floor isn't D with the flat part on the floor like a STOCK WRX head.
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Old 04-29-2009, 01:59 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by FuJi K View Post
I just dropped off the heads at the Machine shop here (DG Motors) and I'll pick them up either tomorrow night or Thursday. Let see what the work cut out to be. Not really looking at high numbers from the exhaust because they have smaller valve bowls than the WRX heads. Also the floor isn't D with the flat part on the floor like a STOCK WRX head.
D & G Motors to be exact.
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Old 04-30-2009, 02:09 PM   #40
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Flowed on a SF-600 @ 28"

Intake
.1" - .2" - .3" - .380" (couldn't get the stock cam to hit .4" lift??)
84 - 172 - 246 - 276
Dog Leg
.1" - .2" - .3" - .4"
72 - 152 - 192 - 205
Straight Leg
.1" - .2" - .3" - .4"
75 - 155 - 203 - 219
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:06 PM   #41
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did you do any probe varifaction of velocities? flow #'s are honestly pretty useless alone.

Regarless, not a bad intake to exhaust ratio at all. I'd work on improving the intakes flow and matching the dogleg to the straight leg...try and balance the cylinders.

try dropping the roof on the dogleg, essentially causing a taller port for it. Try and aim it so that the convergence of the two valve's flow hits outside the head/at the gasket.
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:42 PM   #42
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I didn't get any on velocities. I just dropped off the head to get flowed. I wished I had a bench all to my self. I'd flow the heads with the intake manifold and exhaust manifold.

I'll get some work on the DogLeg some more, then mirror the unported head to it. We'll see if I'll get to flow more heads over there. Should be interesting this summer.

What's the ideal intake-exhaust ratio?

Here are the sheets.
straight exhaust ---------Dog leg & intake
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:42 PM   #43
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Great work!!!

Im assuming the dog leg on the exhaust, out flows the strait port when the head is stock before the PNP work?

Also what grit are you using in thye intake runner, and bowl? And what grit for exhaust? Flapperwheels on the intake side for the finish work etc?
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Old 04-30-2009, 09:05 PM   #44
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Looks good fuji!! How have you been, have not seen you all winter!
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Old 04-30-2009, 10:41 PM   #45
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a lot of people/sources say exhaust should be 2/3 of the intake. Of course if this is off, valves and or cams can be used to equalize the flow.

I use 120 grit flapwheels for finishing my ports and TGV's.
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Old 05-01-2009, 01:31 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by rexworx View Post
Great work!!!

Im assuming the dog leg on the exhaust, out flows the strait port when the head is stock before the PNP work?

Also what grit are you using in thye intake runner, and bowl? And what grit for exhaust? Flapperwheels on the intake side for the finish work etc?
The straight port flows more than the dogleg, always unless you put work into it.
It's hard to fine stock numbers that'll work. However.. I found these numbers, and it gives us an idea.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1202574


I converted the Cosworth heads to 28"

WRX head Intake Port flow @ 28" IIRC (as reported on Jorge's site):
Lift = CFM
.1" = 81
.2" = 177
.3" = 234
.4" = 234

Stock STi Intake Port Flow @ 28" (as reported by Cosworth):
Lift in mm = Flow in CFM
.1" = 67
.2" = 164
.3" = 215
.4" = 232

Lower lift numbers on the STOCK STi heads probably from the imperfections of the valve seat to the port. I've seen this in the STi head I have, as well as the STI head online@NASIOC. The step of the valve seat isn't as apparent on the WRX 2.0L or the WRX 2.5L head.

Here's some stock WRX numbers:
http://rs25.com/forums/showthread.ph...84#post1688784
Lift Intake Exhaust
.050 16 cfm 11 cfm
.100 61 cfm 44 cfm
.200 188 cfm 147 cfm
.300 240 cfm 194 cfm
.400 248 cfm 205 cfm

Again, it's hard to compare numbers because also temperature plays a role and such. This gives you an idea.

The tools I'm using at the moment. I also have sand rolls 3/4" diameter by 1" tall?
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Old 05-01-2009, 01:39 PM   #47
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you should check out Foredom grinders...I've used one with the foot pedal option before. Its now on my to buy list
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Old 05-04-2009, 05:40 PM   #48
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Thanks Homemade, Im in the process of pnpinga set of EJ205 heads...
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Old 05-04-2009, 06:08 PM   #49
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I'm doing some now too! Thanks for the pics.
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:17 PM   #50
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You can build a very good flow bench with Audie Tech. Electronics and check material thickness with a Phase II thickness checker in the ports or on anything you can't get to both sides of.

If subaru thought it was a good idea to shorten the guides for more flow they would not have wasted their money on longer guides. A shorter guide lets the valve wobble on it's way down and it won't set in the same place each time as the guide wears also the heat won't be transfered as well with a smaller surface area.

If you have your own flow bench it is easy to see when you are removing material in the wrong places before it gets too out of hand. The only place to start is with the head at the begining and flow it as using other flow numbers is not the same as doing the same head from start to end on the same bench. It's real easy to loose 20 cfm at low lift removing the material from the wrong places.

The best flow numbers are the highest averages across the span from .0 to .450 not the maximum flow. The valves spend more time at low to mid lift. Thats where you want the largest gains. Usually you will loose low lift numbers trying to gain high lift numbers.

I really haven't written anything new as this info has been posted on other earlier threads but I just thought I would bring it up for new readers.

Last edited by charliew; 05-04-2009 at 10:32 PM.
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