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Old 01-01-2013, 01:24 AM   #476
FuJi K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scby rex
have any pics of the 2 bits?
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:47 PM   #477
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Here is 120 grit vs my small double cut carbide. I'll be trying out 220 grit and some polishing to please the eyes of viewers.

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Old 01-14-2013, 03:22 PM   #478
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show off
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:21 PM   #479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuJi K View Post
Here is 120 grit vs my small double cut carbide. I'll be trying out 220 grit and some polishing to please the eyes of viewers.
Don't give in to the eye-candy set.
I think you are supposed to leave it a little rough for better flow, no?
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:09 PM   #480
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Double D Port Job, GSC Cams, +1 Valves, 2.5L AVCS Set to 0 GT35r .82 on Break-In on 92 fuel. Nothing special. Sorry know the Scan sucks
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:22 PM   #481
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Damn, this makes me wish I ported my EG33 heads while I had my block apart, I was afraid of screwing something up...

Can't wait to see your EG33 heads ported Fuji! I hear there is a lot of power to be gained with porting out the EG33.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:36 PM   #482
FuJi K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod
Don't give in to the eye-candy set.
I think you are supposed to leave it a little rough for better flow, no?
I leave the intake with the bit finish. If wanted i could leave it with 120 grit, which is somewhat smooth. Sorry i should have clearified the polishing was for the exhaust.

I know people love shiny stuff. It takes just a bit more time but i suppose of you wanted a polished exhaust, i have no problem with that. it'll get covered in carbon shortly after. If anything i would leave it bit finish and coat it along with the chambers and valves.

Here is some testing with polishing. 120 grit, 400 grit, 1000 grit with water, then Mothers MAG & ALUMINUM POLISH for the finish.

Last edited by FuJi K; 01-14-2013 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:38 PM   #483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Token-Negro
Double D Port Job, GSC Cams, +1 Valves, 2.5L AVCS Set to 0 GT35r .82 on Break-In on 92 fuel. Nothing special. Sorry know the Scan sucks
I want to see more!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jessekrs123
Damn, this makes me wish I ported my EG33 heads while I had my block apart, I was afraid of screwing something up...

Can't wait to see your EG33 heads ported Fuji! I hear there is a lot of power to be gained with porting out the EG33.
The intake ports are huge. Just a clean up will really be needed, IMO. The exhaust ports look to flow great after porting. They look in between S20 & B25 for the straight and dog leg runners.



Here are the B25 exhausts with 120 grit.

Last edited by FuJi K; 01-14-2013 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:44 AM   #484
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Hey FuJi,

I have talked to Micah aka homemadewrx on here about building an NA eg33 with either 99.5 pistons or a 4" bore if we can do it with the 75mm crank and 4mm+ rods. Now the question here is if the 4" bore is possible, the intake ports are big already on the eg33 head from what I just read, then what do you think would need ported to allow really no low end loss but nice gains in the mid and upper rpms like up to 8500 rpms or so?

Looking forward to your porting pictures of an eg33 head
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:55 PM   #485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400
Hey FuJi,

I have talked to Micah aka homemadewrx on here about building an NA eg33 with either 99.5 pistons or a 4" bore if we can do it with the 75mm crank and 4mm+ rods. Now the question here is if the 4" bore is possible, the intake ports are big already on the eg33 head from what I just read, then what do you think would need ported to allow really no low end loss but nice gains in the mid and upper rpms like up to 8500 rpms or so?

Looking forward to your porting pictures of an eg33 head
To keep the port size the same is simple. Just go ahead and remove bumps and steps and smooth out the short turn transition. Do a radius valve job and blend the seats well. Back cut the valves too if you want.

The chamber width is around 93mm across. You could open them to 99mm (3.998") then round off the edge. With this the valves are unshrouded more this helping with low lift. The face of the chamber is lifted so if you wanted to clean up the sharp edge around the valve seat, go for it.

If you wanted to get more compression, you could have it welded up and do a cover style chamber. New seats needed after welding.


Here is the polish after a simple 1000 grit wet sand. Is this enough for you guys or did you want to see 3000 grit then polish? The 120 grit looks great already. Even the well known head shops don't polish, but some do. Eh...



Here is with just the 1000 grit wet sand and no polish
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:48 AM   #486
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I just feel that my shots aren't that sharp and was wondering if that had something to do with it. I really don't feel that the IS does anything at such slow speeds.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:49 AM   #487
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The distance from pad to pad are around 75mm on the D25/S20 heads and about 76mm on the B25 because it's a little rounder at the edges.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:22 AM   #488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnriney View Post
I just feel that my shots aren't that sharp and was wondering if that had something to do with it. I really don't feel that the IS does anything at such slow speeds.
IS=image stabilization. You need a tripod and good lighting. Then a really small aperture so you get the depth of field that Fuji is getting. A point and shoot will need to be in manual mode or macro/closeup mode and/or aperture priority mode if you can and set a higher aperture number (smaller opening, but larger number). Manually, by higher aperture I mean like f22. That requires much more light and/or a long exposure (thus the need for a tripod). It is all about the lens' depth of field.
No tripod? Set your camera up on a stable surface (like pile of books) and move the head around, into position. Then use the timer function so you are not touching the camera when it fires. You can also get farther away, but that reduces detail, which can be somewhat recovered by cropping/enlarging it if you have a decent lens and a sharp image.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:29 AM   #489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuJi K View Post
Here is the polish after a simple 1000 grit wet sand. Is this enough for you guys or did you want to see 3000 grit then polish? The 120 grit looks great already. Even the well known head shops don't polish, but some do. Eh...
Here is with just the 1000 grit wet sand and no polish
Stop polishing! See; I'm having to wear sunglasses!
It shows up every little flaw in your work.
What I want to see is the passages anodized red. Gold plated valve guides!
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:19 PM   #490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
Stop polishing! See; I'm having to wear sunglasses!
It shows up every little flaw in your work.
What I want to see is the passages anodized red. Gold plated valve guides!

You can sand out flaws. As you polish its like doint body work. If you see flaws after say you use a 220 grit go down to a 120 work that in well then go back to your 220 and so on until you get what you want.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:00 PM   #491
FuJi K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnriney
I just feel that my shots aren't that sharp and was wondering if that had something to do with it. I really don't feel that the IS does anything at such slow speeds.
I'm using my Galaxy S2 camera phone and some camera fooling tricks for light exposer. I'll get some studio shots once I'm done with this pair of B25 heads.

Here is 400 grit finish on the exhausts. I'll keep it at this grit for the exhausts.

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Old 01-26-2013, 05:55 PM   #492
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Awesome work Fuji! Can't wait to get everything back together and running, NF FTW!
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:03 PM   #493
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Any news on the eg33 heads fuJi?
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:39 AM   #494
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Fuji's got secrets.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:14 AM   #495
FuJi K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckyguy68
Fuji's got secrets.
Like!

I'll do one intake port of the EG33 head tomorrow morning. Just a rough cut and then double cut bit to smooth it out.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:16 AM   #496
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Awesome work Fuji

Jura
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:32 PM   #497
FuJi K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400
Any news on the eg33 heads fuJi?
Just for you! Finished with my small double cut bit for surface finish. Lunch time! ..... Brb







Last edited by FuJi K; 01-29-2013 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:36 PM   #498
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Take so much time....goodness! No more polishing after this one. Whew! Polish after 1000 grit wet sand. It would have a better mirror finish if finished with higher grit.

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Old 01-29-2013, 11:35 PM   #499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuJi K View Post
Take so much time....goodness! No more polishing after this one. Whew! Polish after 1000 grit wet sand. It would have a better mirror finish if finished with higher grit.

These looks nuts!
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:20 PM   #500
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Hey FuJi thanks for the info on the eg33 heads. If I wanted more compression I would get pistons to make up the difference, bore out the head to 99.5 or so and then round off a little more to match the 4" bore if I can do that.

So, I am doing a ej25 block and phase 1 ej22 single port heads only because I have a nice borla steel single port uel header. My question to you FuJi is I know that the ej22 heads don't have a lot of room to reshape/port so where would you suggest to port and smooth out places to help with the flow in and out of the cylinders because of the ej25 bore and produce improved velocity? Going to be getting delta 220 torque grind cams for the ej22 heads. The header collector size of my header is 2.25" I believe not sure if it is ID or OD. Cat back is a stock 04 wrx midpipe and a 2.5" straight through muffler. Stock cat section for now.

The type of performance I am looking for is between 2k and 5k rpm's.

Not to get to far off topic, what type of porting would be good for the usdm s20 2L head that would be put on a 2L block with a sti 79mm crank? A simple valve job and blending the seat and work on the short turn radius?
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