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Old 11-15-2010, 09:46 AM   #201
FuJi K
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This was fun and I will have to buy more silicone to make more molds.







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Old 11-15-2010, 09:54 AM   #202
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We'll see what kind of a powerband this helps with. Heads will have GSC cams on them, stock valves, crower springs and retainers.






I'll be working with the exhaust ports on the D25 heads again. All the newer '07+ STi heads run this bigger exhaust port as well. We'll see what I can pull off with stock valves.
I'm trying to get them to flow as close to the B25 heads I've been working on. The difference is the width of the valve bowls between the two.


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Old 11-15-2010, 12:03 PM   #203
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Silicone moulds look really interesting. Is that between the small ports and JDM big ports?
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Old 11-15-2010, 12:54 PM   #204
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fuji, what silicon did you use for your molds? looks like it finished really well and was easy to remove...never had both in the same silicon before
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:48 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frayz View Post
Silicone moulds look really interesting. Is that between the small ports and JDM big ports?
That's between my ported D25 head and stock small port.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
fuji, what silicon did you use for your molds? looks like it finished really well and was easy to remove...never had both in the same silicon before
Ohh... it isn't as easy as it looks. hahah A tip was said to use WD40 to help remove the mold from the ports. You can't really pull it out. Takes some pushing from the combustion chamber side and also spraying some more WD40 on the sides, and down the valve guide.

you'd need TWO 1lb kits to really get two ports. I ALMOST got two ports but there wasn't enough to fill the 2nd port; which in this case the stock port.
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:43 AM   #206
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Here are D25 exhaust ports. Mainly worked on the short turn radius and edges. Dog Leg work is done on the splitter near the roof. Where ever my bit touched, that's where porting was done. This is just a clean up without enlarging much. I DID cut down the guides and guide support on the roof. I did NOT enlarge the throat where the valve seat is so it still is stock there and also stock valve angles. We'll see how they flow compared to the stock numbers I already have. All the S20/D25/V25B/W25 heads run this exhaust port. The B25 heads do NOT run this exhaust port.









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Old 12-04-2010, 09:07 AM   #207
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dude, you post a lot of car related pron
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:16 AM   #208
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Short turn radius?? D25 head


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Old 12-11-2010, 10:45 PM   #209
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ok I have some heads that I want to start work on. Yet how do I remove the valve guides so I can get started?
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:56 PM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid gti 2 View Post
ok I have some heads that I want to start work on. Yet how do I remove the valve guides so I can get started?
Subaru has a valve guide remover. It slides into the guide, then comes to a stop. A press is used. Some machine shops may have different ways of removing guides such as using an air punch?

I made a tool just like this one. But my steel was too weak as I bought it from Menards. It serves the same goal.



For manual
http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/handdrivers.html

For Air punch
http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/airdrivers.html
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:36 PM   #211
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Sounds like something I can't do with hand tools. Thanx
for the info.
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Old 12-13-2010, 09:24 PM   #212
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Fuji removing valve guide material on the exhaust side is not recommended since it helps to pull heat from the valve head. It would be safer to shape the guide but leave it full length. That silicon is a cool idea, it really gives a good view of whats going on inside those ports.
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Old 12-13-2010, 09:57 PM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuJi K View Post
Ohh... it isn't as easy as it looks. hahah A tip was said to use WD40 to help remove the mold from the ports. You can't really pull it out. Takes some pushing from the combustion chamber side and also spraying some more WD40 on the sides, and down the valve guide.

you'd need TWO 1lb kits to really get two ports. I ALMOST got two ports but there wasn't enough to fill the 2nd port; which in this case the stock port.
So I'll order the 4lb kit to do a full head. Both exhaust ports, combustion chamber and an intake.
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Old 12-16-2010, 01:39 PM   #214
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Flow numbers for post #206

Stock valves, stock valve angles, stock valve throat, measured on stock cams.

Exhaust (straight)
.100" = 81cfm
.200" = 160cfm
.300" = 194cfm
.396" = 213cfm

Exhaust (dog leg)
.100" = 78cfm
.200" = 155cfm
.300" = 186cfm
.396" = 202cfm

As with ALL the heads I flowed, they where measured with the stock cam lift profiles. I didn't check clearances to see how much but I did put on the thickest bucket I could find. Really the stock lift doesn't come close to .4" lift at all from what the dial gauge came out to be. I'll have to put on a fixture so it'll come out to what the actual lifts are. So to speak, with stock cams, this is what the flow numbers come out to be at maximum lift.
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Old 12-16-2010, 03:34 PM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
fuji, what silicon did you use for your molds? looks like it finished really well and was easy to remove...never had both in the same silicon before
i see what you did there
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:55 PM   #216
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heres a bunch of numbers....i have no idea what they mean, but this guy collected lots of data

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Subaru
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:14 PM   #217
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^^nice
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:12 PM   #218
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Here's the LIP TREATMENT on the intake side; rounded off the sharp step of the valve seat. Keeping most of the throat size but making sure there is smoother flow from port runner past the valve seat. This lip on the seat is apparent on the B25 001 casting and also some S20 001-003 castings. Newer castings are better and match up better so the lips is less to minimal.





Here's a DD treatment with light valve seat blending. This was a B25 002 casting which had much better port to valve seat casting.



Here is a B25 001 casting. You can see that there is a fatter lip at the valve seat.

Last edited by FuJi K; 01-28-2011 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:04 AM   #219
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This is what happens when you have extreme DET. This part that chipped off is the part that has more clearance than the rest of the guide, which is the part I grind off. It's like a little relief at the tip of the guides, same with intake guides. It is because of this I was more confident in grinding down the guides. The guides I replaced was both exhaust guides on Cyl#4.
I'mma need a better valve guide remover.





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Old 01-30-2011, 07:57 AM   #220
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always love your write ups and pictures, my Ver8 heads are at the shop i did a light port on them, i should try the silicone just to see what mine look like, also it lookd pretty cool when they put in guides at the machine shop, they have different sizes, and put in the closest one, and run a bore through it with an air hammer to correct the size, and i have even seen them sleeve them.
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:12 AM   #221
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Hey dude, again thanks for the great info. So would you recommend grinding down the valve seats on both the intake and exhaust sides?
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Old 01-30-2011, 10:45 AM   #222
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^^^^^^^
Seats or guides?
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Old 01-30-2011, 08:30 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post
Hey dude, again thanks for the great info. So would you recommend grinding down the valve seats on both the intake and exhaust sides?
The lip you can round off. The diameter or say valve throat is up to you. Some say the inside diameter should be anywhere from 80-90% of the valve size. 87% throat to valve size is what TK383 uses.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&postcount=160

Have your valve angles done first then blend.

Honda heads have some very simple angles and seat angles. They flow well but it may or may not work for our Subaru heads. I would like to find out...

Last edited by FuJi K; 01-30-2011 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:05 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
^^^^^^^
Seats or guides?
Sorry meant the guides. From what I've read, it isn't recommended but from the pics fuji posted it looks like a good idea.
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:19 PM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuJi K View Post
The lip you can round off. The diameter or say valve throat is up to you. Some say the inside diameter should be anywhere from 80-90% of the valve size. 85% throat to valve size is what TK383 uses.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&postcount=160

Have your valve angles done first then blend.

Honda heads have some very simple angles and seat angles. They flow well but it may or may not work for our Subaru heads. I would like to find out...
Dude, even with all the help you've given me, I'm still lost on this topic. Like the idea hasn't clicked yet. I get lost in all the velocity vs volume vs lift stuff ...

So is do most of the gains come from fixing the factory casting (rounding the seats, knife-edging the dividers, smoothing the casting) or from reshaping the ports?

I don't have access to a flow bench nor the time to do the string flow tests. Original plan was to leave the heads alone, but if there are gains to be had by doing simple stuff like cleaning up the casting, than why not. I dunno, what would you recommend? Just leave it alone?
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