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Old 03-26-2009, 01:19 PM   #1
Vlad
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Default 08 Sti Intercooler on 02 WRX

I have been running this for a while now, I wanted to share some information.
My '08 Intercooler came with the aluminum y-pipe.
I bought a silicone elbow and a silicone coupler for the TB

I think any intercooler can be installed in several different ways.
I wanted to use a TMIC-Throttle body coupler of a stock length.
Under boost, all of these elbows and couplers "inflate".
So keeping them short may be an advantage. I used several clamps on the elbow, just to prevent it from inflating.

The Fit:
There is no problem with the air conditioning line at the firewall, there is a problem with the Turbo actuation capsule. The passenger lower corner of the intercooler touches that

Mounts:
If you want to use a stock length coupler between the intercooler and throttle body, then both mounts are off.
On the driver's side, I drilled and tapped a new hole into the black bracket that holds the mount.
On the passenger side, I used a 6" piece of aluminum which I drilled to match the stock 2 holes on the mount, fastened it with 2 screws.
Then I marked, drilled and tapped a matching hole for the mounting.

Scoop/scoop duct:
I modified the WRX scoop duct. I've cut it open and peeled it back so that it's as wide as the intercooler. Depth is not much different.

Review:
I have PPP3 and had just done an Injen crosspipe. That had brought extra torque at the low end of the range.
The TMIC changed that to evenly distributed additional torque. The power progression feels linear.
I use Delta Dash to log, but didn't have it available before installing the TMIC. Once I logged, I found every parameter where I expected it to find.
The AFR are at 11.24 and remain there.
I used the Road dyno function and found 245 WHP (heavy smoothing) 239 WHP (heaviest possible smoothing). This was after I did an AEM cai though.
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Old 03-26-2009, 02:15 PM   #2
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Good work man. I'm sure this will become a popular thread once people start dumping there 08 STI TMIC on us
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Old 03-26-2009, 02:26 PM   #3
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Thanks, I'll add photos.
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Old 03-26-2009, 03:07 PM   #4
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Definitely interested in some pics.
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Old 03-26-2009, 04:26 PM   #5
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Please add photos, I'm adding this to my TMIC FAQ too.
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Old 03-26-2009, 06:40 PM   #6
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Dude thank you so much! Im buyin my buddys 08 topmount and Ive been wondering how to mount it. Pictures would be awesome!
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Old 03-26-2009, 06:45 PM   #7
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Well, here's an overview

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Old 03-26-2009, 06:49 PM   #8
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nice, any pictures from the passenger side showing the mount? thanks a lot
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Old 03-26-2009, 06:50 PM   #9
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close up driver's side. In the dark see the factory treaded hole, you can understand the relative position of the new location



The steel of the bracket is soo thick that treading is no problem..

Close up passenger side: Te aluminum bracket is bolted to the factory mount. The factory mount has 2 holes so i used both to mount my aluminum extension.
I bought the aluminum at Home depot, it's sold in the door section, as entrance treshold cover..

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Old 03-26-2009, 06:57 PM   #10
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passenger side overview. Note the section of the aluminum piece. It's around $10/4 foot section. The aluminum profile is possibly extruded, much harder than cast. You can't bend (well, your average guy ) a 4" section of this by hand.



Clearance problem, wastegate capsule





No clearance problem, A/C line (there are approx 2 mm of gap without bending the line)

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Old 03-26-2009, 07:07 PM   #11
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The STI label is AutoCAD-ed, scaled to fit the bigger intercooler, painted with my tallent-less aproximation of Sakura.

Scoop internals overview. More depth is not necessary, width has to be extended. In doing this, I used no external material. I've cut pieces, turned them around and reinstalled them.



I don't have welding available, so I bolted the "new" sections, then siliconed them to the old ones, to prevent air leaks.


I have yet to install the rubber moulding, but I have it clear in my mind how I'll do that. Again, using and reusing the stock pieces.
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:11 PM   #12
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The "red elbow" that the TMIC comes with may have inner metal inerts woven into it, to prevent "inflation" under boost. It was too much $$, so I used a standard elbow with extra hose clamps, to handle the inflation.
I intend to do something about the TMIC-TB section as well.

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Old 03-26-2009, 07:20 PM   #13
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Dude you rock! Unabomber this definitely needs to be added to the FAQ. You answered all my questions! thanks!
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:21 PM   #14
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thanks
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:32 AM   #15
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lol @ autocad. i work with that crap all day.
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Old 03-27-2009, 09:38 AM   #16
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Thanks for the pics as this will help others.

P.S. Your engine bay called, it wants some Simple Green and a hose STAT!
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Old 03-27-2009, 09:49 AM   #17
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Thanks
And yep, you're right, spring cleaning to follow...
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:06 PM   #18
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Sorry for bringing an old thread back from the dead, and for rhyming, but this is the best writeup on this issue so far, so I figured Id ask here.

Is there any concern with the WG actuator touching? Im going to run an EWG, so will this not matter at all? Thanks.
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:16 PM   #19
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Yes, the actuator does touch.
I am thinking to use some washers to lift the aluminum bracket, to raise the passenger side.
I am getting ready to do a 16G and I am almost sure that the top edge of the actuator will be raised even higer compared with my TD04.

As far as EWG, there is nothing else in the area that could touch, except for the actuator. I think you'll be fine, as long as the EWG itself is located somewhat below where the actuator normally sits.
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:50 AM   #20
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you dont have any problems using that large of a intercooler on your td04?
i just picked one up for 07 fxtand was gonna wait to install it till i got my vf43
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Old 06-02-2009, 12:26 PM   #21
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i have solved the intercooler touching the actuator, by adding 2 washers between the OEM passenger side intercooler bracket and the aluminum extension made by me. I have now a 3 mm clearance.
And yes, the intercooler did very well for me.
I had Prodrive stage 3
That is turbo back 2.5 inch catted
uppipe
new restrictor pill
08 sti TMIC
injen crosspipe, with a bit of porting of the manifolds and turbo inlet (turbine)
AEM Cai
The map was for 19 PSI.

Got 252 WHP with Ecutek roaddyno, with heavy smoothing. That equates to 5 WHP less than what dynodynamics would read.
This was in cold weather.
The boost would touch 18.5 PSi at 3100 RPM and then peak at 19 PSI at 3600 PSI.
But the 3600 second peak is there as is, no matter of the intercooler, that's how the map is. I would have had to retune for my mods.
The boost would hit 16 PSI before 2700 RPM, that's good enough for me.

Later I did the APS TGV deletes, the APS inlet, the 2008 Sti fuel pump and kinda dropped out of the scope of my map.
Now I have an evo3 16g but am waiting for a tune.
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:04 PM   #22
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I have a tune now on the 16G and completed the shroud for this. It's not difficult to make one.
I reccomend now the OEM red intercooler elbow. It not only is reinforced, but has a metal shoulder that allows you to help it slide onto the compressor outlet with a screwdriver. You can push into this with a screwdriver.
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:32 AM   #23
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so simply you need to drill a new hole location on the driver side, you need to add and extend a piece from the pass. side and then add some washers on both sides to avoid hitting the waste gate?
Im getting just the tmic soon, what y-pipe and hoses should i get will ebay ones be good and reach the turbo? also i dont really undertand how made the stock scoop parts be able to cool the how tmic.
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Old 01-05-2010, 12:33 AM   #24
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Get the OEM red elbow hose for the turbo-intercooler connection. Also the OEM y-pipe for this intercooler. It may be different than other year model Sti intercoolers.
Get the silicone hose for the intercooler-throttle body connection.
There's a brand that everyone uses, there was a tread about it. Styling motors (or maybe stylin motors), I believe. If you search with this, you'll get the diameters too.
The intercooler throttle-body connection is a bit longer than normal, but nothing crazy, maybe 1/2" longer.
For the scoop internals, do this:
Once you have the intercooler in place, remove the bellows and maybe just leave one screw loosely holding in place the internals. Slowly close the hood and see how it lines up. Then take the screw out, remove the internals and lay it on top of the intercooler.

If you do what I did with installation of the intercooler, you'll see that the opening needs to be wider and longer

So, you will see that the passenger side lateral "wall" is held in place by 2 spot welds. Drill them out. Then use a dremel to basically cut the passenger lateral wall away from the slant back piece.
The horizontal part has a "divider" and a "grill" that is used for cooling on top of the turbo shield. You will need to cut everything horizontal, except for a small piece of the "grill", as shown in the photo. Then use the piece cut from the horizontal to extend the slant back, I held everything together with silicone and two bolts. Never had a problem.

It is best if you do this work once you've acquired the JDM Scoop, because the slant piece will also need to stick out higher into the scoop, the JDM scoop is taller

Last edited by Vlad; 01-05-2010 at 12:45 AM.
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Old 01-05-2010, 12:43 AM   #25
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Also, with my Evo 3 16G tune complete, I am making 300 WHP in 64 degree weather. I added an autospeed intercooler sprayer controller, with thermistors, one on the intercooler.
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