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Old 08-02-2011, 01:04 PM   #4151
07pearlwht
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373whp 410wtq /07pearlwht /07 STI/ EJ257 + 20gxt-r 8cm/1000cc 82%idc /4660ft.
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Old 08-03-2011, 06:46 AM   #4152
MattPersman
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rons the man.
+1 thanks for continued support
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Old 08-03-2011, 02:05 PM   #4153
Gfunk720
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This has probably been covered, but I can't read back through every page. That gauge that Visconti has is sick, but may be a little overkill for me.

Can anyone recommend a decent Ethanol testing kit? Looking for something accurate that wont break the bank.
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Old 08-03-2011, 02:10 PM   #4154
WhyHelloOfficer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gfunk720 View Post
This has probably been covered, but I can't read back through every page. That gauge that Visconti has is sick, but may be a little overkill for me.

Can anyone recommend a decent Ethanol testing kit? Looking for something accurate that wont break the bank.
A graduated cylinder that you can seal is all you need.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...hanolTest.html
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Old 08-03-2011, 03:26 PM   #4155
STiProsDoc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gfunk720 View Post
This has probably been covered, but I can't read back through every page. That gauge that Visconti has is sick, but may be a little overkill for me.

Can anyone recommend a decent Ethanol testing kit? Looking for something accurate that wont break the bank.

This is what I use

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QFT-36-E85/
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:32 PM   #4156
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^Same here. Last batch was E88.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:33 PM   #4157
Gfunk720
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Thanks for the links. Very helpful.

Put my Aeromotive 340 in tonight, and it looks like they fixed the polarity issues on the pump. I confirmed it against my Walbro after I took it out, same as the stock harness. Install was pretty simple.

Should be pumping E85 in no time
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:35 PM   #4158
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Any harm in clicking my key to 'on' after my injector/pump/tgv/intake manifold install to make sure everything is hooked back up correctly before I get the car towed to tuning tomorrow? I figure this would be a safe way to check for leaks and that the pump is operating correctly.
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:51 PM   #4159
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i highly recommend checking for leaks...i usually check for fuel leaks by unplugging the coilpacks and then turning the motor over for a few seconds. that little bit of fuel in there isn't going to hurt anything. there have been reports of AERO340 pumps not working properly (like mine where it was turning on properly but the gear inside wasn't actually pumping any fuel into the lines). doing this would save you the FAIL moment of getting all the way to the tuner and finding your fuel pump bad, injectors not seated, etc.. Ops checks are always a good idea when possible with any install.

fyi...if you are ever wanting to check for oil leaks or prime an engine, turbo, etc. you would disconnect your fuel pump relay (the green connector on the passenger side) and then turn the motor over for about 10 seconds. i usually do this 2x when priming a new engine or turbo. just allows the oil to fully circulate through the system and build up a small amount of pressure.

Last edited by amalgrover; 08-04-2011 at 06:58 PM.
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Old 08-04-2011, 08:38 PM   #4160
smeerone
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Guys is there a tell tale sign a fuel filter is clogged/dirty?
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Old 08-04-2011, 08:39 PM   #4161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeerone
Guys is there a tell tale sign a fuel filter is clogged/dirty?
Car wont turn over unless it's cranked a lot. Recently swapped the walbro in.
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:46 PM   #4162
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Did you double o-ring the new pump? Does it take a while to crank after sitting for a while, but fires right up if you turn it off and crank it right away?

If you have a bad seal at the fuel pump ---> fuel pump housing it'll bleed pressure off and have to re-prime after sitting for a while, hence the long cranking process.
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:59 PM   #4163
smeerone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicersWetDream
Did you double o-ring the new pump? Does it take a while to crank after sitting for a while, but fires right up if you turn it off and crank it right away?

If you have a bad seal at the fuel pump ---> fuel pump housing it'll bleed pressure off and have to re-prime after sitting for a while, hence the long cranking process.
Thanks, don't think mine is double o ringed. I'm going to inspect.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:03 PM   #4164
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if you get a po420(?code?)it may be the seal that the gas tank cover has. i used mine over and it leaked pressure. same code as loose fuel cap.
i also broke one of the studs on the gas tank...i think its only 9#s of tq.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:15 PM   #4165
wrxsubiemod
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I think its less^ one snapped on me as well. Damn bolts
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:23 PM   #4166
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i used a new seal and it held for 5 years now...minus two studs. i dont see how the studs can be replaced without dropping the tank and possibly replacing the whole tank...

those studs are stupid undersized.
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:25 PM   #4167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr

those studs are stupid undersized.
Word.
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:38 PM   #4168
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fortunately they are welded so the other side didn't fall into the tank...but i dont see how it can be repaired...

i'll probally have to consider replacing the tank when i have to pull the 70k'd walbro.
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:14 AM   #4169
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could just lay some catch cloth inside the tank, drill it out, and then use a nut and bolt with an o-ring or just jbweld it closed. the nut and bolt with jbweld would hold and seal just as good as it did before, and that way you don't have to drop the whole tank and weld with gas fumes.
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:53 AM   #4170
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeerone View Post
Guys is there a tell tale sign a fuel filter is clogged/dirty?
Quote:
Originally Posted by smeerone View Post
Car wont turn over unless it's cranked a lot. Recently swapped the walbro in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicersWetDream View Post
Did you double o-ring the new pump? Does it take a while to crank after sitting for a while, but fires right up if you turn it off and crank it right away?

If you have a bad seal at the fuel pump ---> fuel pump housing it'll bleed pressure off and have to re-prime after sitting for a while, hence the long cranking process.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smeerone View Post
Thanks, don't think mine is double o ringed. I'm going to inspect.
Here's a thread I made on the issue:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2130397

Taking longer to turn over after a Walbro install is NOT normal (even though plenty of people will swear that it is). The car should start up exactly like OEM. You need to make sure everything that needed to be trimmed, has been trimmed. You also need to make sure to use the double o-ring trick or something else similar to get it to seal. Also verify that all the other connections on that housing are on tight.

I had the slow startup issue pop back up a few months after that thread and it ended up being one of the hoses on the housing that had come very slightly loose. By this time I had my wideband gauge hooked up and saw that it would run crazy lean up top (ran fine while cruising). Definitely not a safe condition for the motor.
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:59 AM   #4171
smeerone
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^^ thank you, this is really helpful.
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:28 PM   #4172
MattPersman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
if you get a po420(?code?)it may be the seal that the gas tank cover has. i used mine over and it leaked pressure. same code as loose fuel cap.
i also broke one of the studs on the gas tank...i think its only 9#s of tq.
P0420 is a catalytic efficiency code not and evap leak code
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:46 PM   #4173
benit0
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2002 WRX Wagon

317whp / 293wtq - virtual dyno
Stock long block ej20 @ 200k
800cc PE Top Feeds
VF22
85% IDC
800ft


I tuned it my self, theirs a lot more room in it i'm positive. hopefully getting a protune soon here.

Last edited by benit0; 08-05-2011 at 01:14 PM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:54 PM   #4174
amalgrover
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wow...200,000 miles ...i'm impressed...even more impressed if it lasts with the e85 in there cleaning all that carbon and junk away from the seal and stuff
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:16 PM   #4175
benit0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post
wow...200,000 miles ...i'm impressed...even more impressed if it lasts with the e85 in there cleaning all that carbon and junk away from the seal and stuff
I bought it at 164k. 100% bone stock, no rust clean as a whistle.

Around 170k was when i went "stage 2" and about 180k is when i went vf22/injectors/tgv delete/e85 and some other random stuff.

Been driving it the last 20k with no issues.

Oh, its at exactly 196k right now. I've only had it for 1 year 3 months.
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