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Old 01-15-2013, 07:03 AM   #6826
manitou
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OBP, Junior tuned 573WHP

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I'm at 535 WHP on a Dynojet. With stock lines, Perrin rails, Walbro 465 rewired, Aeromotive FPR set at 50 psi, IDk injectors and 80 IDC. 600 seems possible with bigger injectors.
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:04 PM   #6827
amalgrover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sub666 View Post
thanks, do you think you are at the max of the stock fuel lines now? How much further can you go on the stock fuel lines, is 600+whp possible, given that the pump and injectors can handle it.

I personally think this would be hard to put an EXACT hp number on due to every setup performing a little bit different, but I think that the stock lines and rails could definitely handle more than what I am at, assuming injectors and pump were good to go.

Honestly, just try it out, and if you run into issues, then get the lines and rails. I mean, installing them isn't hard if you did have to go back and install them, and then you will have a definite answer for your personal setup.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:38 PM   #6828
john 1badSTI
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on e85@ 30psi--spinning

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I am running stock lines to the engine bay then braided with aftermarket rails,also with twin modded wally's and have been 140 in the 1/4 weighing 3370 @ 29psi.From this you can do the math to guesstimate whp.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:41 PM   #6829
juanmedina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john 1badSTI View Post
I am running stock lines to the engine bay then braided with aftermarket rails,also with twin modded wally's and have been 140 in the 1/4 weighing 3370 @ 29psi.From this you can do the math to guesstimate whp.
660whp on a dynojet
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:47 PM   #6830
john 1badSTI
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^^^^yeah right pretty close though juanita medina lol remember too that was with making that extra shift into 5th at a little past the 1/8th.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:20 PM   #6831
juanmedina
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Originally Posted by john 1badSTI View Post
^^^^yeah right pretty close though juanita medina lol remember too that was with making that extra shift into 5th at a little past the 1/8th.
.... jhonita
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:28 PM   #6832
john 1badSTI
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your pretty funny juan thanks for the laughs.
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Old 01-19-2013, 03:43 PM   #6833
renegadeSTi
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RBP

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Engine & Transmission:

Engine a 2.5/2.0 hybrid shortblock built by Suba.
11mm oil pump
Eagle rods
Cosworth oil baffle
Cosworth rod and main bearings
Cosworth head gaskets
Cosworth pistons
ARP head studs
Blouch Dom 1.5 XT-R 3" inlet 10cm housing
Extreme Turbo Systems TMIC
AMR 3" inlet
KS Tech 83mm Mega MAF intake
Motive Autowerks composite TGV deletes
Injector Dynamics EV14 950cc injectors
Tomei UEL Header w/ 3 bolt up pipe
Invidia divorced wastegate catted down pipe
07 STi 6 speed w/ matching R180 rear diff
Subaru short shift kit and linkage

E85 with 22psi at around 6,000 ft elevation

Here are all the print outs from the tune

E-85



91 oct map with E-85 lines



boost and AFR


Last edited by renegadeSTi; 01-19-2013 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:38 AM   #6834
Maxwell Power
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renegadeSTi View Post
Engine & Transmission:

Engine a 2.5/2.0 hybrid shortblock built by Suba.
11mm oil pump
Eagle rods
Cosworth oil baffle
Cosworth rod and main bearings
Cosworth head gaskets
Cosworth pistons
ARP head studs
Blouch Dom 1.5 XT-R 3" inlet 10cm housing
Extreme Turbo Systems TMIC
AMR 3" inlet
KS Tech 83mm Mega MAF intake
Motive Autowerks composite TGV deletes
Injector Dynamics EV14 950cc injectors
Tomei UEL Header w/ 3 bolt up pipe
Invidia divorced wastegate catted down pipe
07 STi 6 speed w/ matching R180 rear diff
Subaru short shift kit and linkage

E85 with 22psi at around 6,000 ft elevation

Here are all the print outs from the tune

E-85

91 oct map with E-85 lines

boost and AFR
If you didn't get the injectors from an ID dealer, they aren't ID. Don't claim they are because they aren't. You may notice they don't sell a 950cc injector for our application.
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:51 PM   #6835
2.5L Monster
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Shuckin' & Drivin'

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Question for all those running E85...I've read in some instances blow by can be excessive which can cause "sludge" build up over time. How many of you installed an AOS/Catch can before going E85? How necessary is it to install said parts? Is one more beneficial than the other?
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:41 PM   #6836
340Duster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2.5L Monster View Post
Question for all those running E85...I've read in some instances blow by can be excessive which can cause "sludge" build up over time. How many of you installed an AOS/Catch can before going E85? How necessary is it to install said parts? Is one more beneficial than the other?
I wouldn't say it's due to E85 as more of a built engine with loser clearances and higher power levels.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:12 PM   #6837
2.5L Monster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 340Duster View Post
I wouldn't say it's due to E85 as more of a built engine with loser clearances and higher power levels.
Right. And with e85 comes higher power levels lol.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:36 PM   #6838
amalgrover
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i recommend a catch can (not AOS) for even my guys running bone stock setups. it is kind of like an oil pressure gauge. do you NEED one...no...is it a good way to monitor and track engine health...yes...
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:37 PM   #6839
340Duster
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'13 500 Abarth

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I like my AOS
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:22 PM   #6840
manitou
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OBP, Junior tuned 573WHP

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 340Duster View Post

I wouldn't say it's due to E85 as more of a built engine with loser clearances and higher power levels.
Looser tolerances, NOT. Piston : wall clearances are slightly greater with 2618 alloy forged pistons but overall engine tolerances are not looser! All street driven Subaru's stock or otherwise should have an AOS. I am not a fan of catch cans, they load up with water from condensation as well as oil from from CC venting because of the heat differential from the warm crankcase air entering the cold can. The Crawford AOS is a different beast, it's heated from the engine coolant and does not allow condensation to form and collect and the oil that does collect drains back into the crankcase. When you push these engines hard you get some blow by and you need to separate that from any intake air and let it drain back without water in it. If you want to check engine health then run compression and leak down tests.

Last edited by manitou; 01-24-2013 at 12:31 AM.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:25 PM   #6841
2.5L Monster
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^ Hmm looks like I'll be looking into a Crawford AOS! Any other well made AOS'?
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:26 PM   #6842
340Duster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
Looser tolerances, NOT. Piston : wall clearances are slightly greater with 2618 alloy forged pistons but overall engine tolerances are not looser!
You generally want a bigger ring gap with higher power/ cyl pressure levels as well or you'll have issues. I also have a looser spec on rod and main bearings on my EJ20. If you can support the volume/ pressure it's worth it IMO. The more oil, the cooler the bearings will run. You don't need 80-90 PSI of pressure cruising on the highway.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:38 PM   #6843
manitou
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OBP, Junior tuned 573WHP

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 340Duster View Post

You generally want a bigger ring gap with higher power/ cyl pressure levels as well or you'll have issues. I also have a looser spec on rod and main bearings on my EJ20. If you can support the volume/ pressure it's worth it IMO. The more oil, the cooler the bearings will run. You don't need 80-90 PSI of pressure cruising on the highway.
I don't subscribe to these theory's, sorry! It's your prerogative to do what you feel you need to do. Good luck!
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:41 PM   #6844
340Duster
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'13 500 Abarth

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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
I don't subscribe to these theory's, sorry! It's your prerogative to do what you feel you need to do. Good luck!
45k miles on the engine, it uses between 1/2 and 1 quart every 5k miles.
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:23 AM   #6845
manitou
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2006 XTI Limited
OBP, Junior tuned 573WHP

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Sounds like your results are good and working for you!
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:38 PM   #6846
Maxwell Power
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Ring gap is all about heat load and ring material. You enlarge the gap so when the heat load is high, the ring doesn't expand to the point that the ring gap becomes less than zero (ring butt). This goes for stock rings, aftermarket rings etc.
Piston to wall clearances are larger because the piston expands more. At peak temperature, the piston should be almost as close to the wall as the stock piston. If it wasn't, there would be no reason for larger piston to wall clearances.
Rod and main bearing clearances should be large enough to lubricate properly. Going too big on the mains will starve the rods of oil just like going too big on the rods will lower the oil pressure at the rod. Oil clearances should be as tight as you can get away with. The closer the pin is to the rod size, the more surface area you get. Draw two circles, one inside the other. You can easily see that when the circles are closest in size, there is more contact area.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:50 PM   #6847
manitou
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2006 XTI Limited
OBP, Junior tuned 573WHP

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 340Duster View Post

45k miles on the engine, it uses between 1/2 and 1 quart every 5k miles.
What kind of power level are you at?
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:51 PM   #6848
manitou
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OBP, Junior tuned 573WHP

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwell Power View Post
Ring gap is all about heat load and ring material. You enlarge the gap so when the heat load is high, the ring doesn't expand to the point that the ring gap becomes less than zero (ring butt). This goes for stock rings, aftermarket rings etc.
Piston to wall clearances are larger because the piston expands more. At peak temperature, the piston should be almost as close to the wall as the stock piston. If it wasn't, there would be no reason for larger piston to wall clearances.
Rod and main bearing clearances should be large enough to lubricate properly. Going too big on the mains will starve the rods of oil just like going too big on the rods will lower the oil pressure at the rod. Oil clearances should be as tight as you can get away with. The closer the pin is to the rod size, the more surface area you get. Draw two circles, one inside the other. You can easily see that when the circles are closest in size, there is more contact area.
Thanks Dom
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:02 PM   #6849
340Duster
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'13 500 Abarth

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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
What kind of power level are you at?
I never dynoed it after switching to E85. With a horrible no launch 2.3 60' it trapped around 103 IIRC on a stock weight car and a MRT geared 5spd. Or, 24psi on a 16G-XT
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:05 PM   #6850
amalgrover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
Looser tolerances, NOT. Piston : wall clearances are slightly greater with 2618 alloy forged pistons but overall engine tolerances are not looser! All street driven Subaru's stock or otherwise should have an AOS. I am not a fan of catch cans, they load up with water from condensation as well as oil from from CC venting because of the heat differential from the warm crankcase air entering the cold can. The Crawford AOS is a different beast, it's heated from the engine coolant and does not allow condensation to form and collect and the oil that does collect drains back into the crankcase. When you push these engines hard you get some blow by and you need to separate that from any intake air and let it drain back without water in it. If you want to check engine health then run compression and leak down tests.

What are the indications of a cracked ringland or excessive blowby in general with an AOS? Now, what are the indications of these same two things with a catch can? I check under my hood once a week (meaning I can see the fluid level inside the catch can)...how often do you do compression and leak down tests? I highly doubt you do them weekly...

Like I said before, catch cans are like gauges, in my opinion. They are a good way to monitor the engine internal's health, and can be a good early indicator of an internal issue. Not everyone NEEDS to monitor this frequently, but everyone DOES benefit from the ability to be notified of a problem as early as possible before causing further damage.
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