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Old 01-25-2013, 02:26 AM   #6851
manitou
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No offense but you can monitior a cracked ring land(s) with the exhaust pipe and the dip stick. You are correct I don't do comp and ld tests that often. Don't need to do them that often. I'd rather have an AOS that performs well and works to vent the cc and keep the intake tract clean. If you have one you have both burning oil and oil consumption, if you have both you do the comp and ld test. Then you know whats going on!
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:45 AM   #6852
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...to each his own I guess. I am not trying to say that I am against AOS. I am just stating that my personal preference is a catch can, and this is what I always recommend to people when they come to me and ask which one I suggest they get. Not all catch cans work properly, just like not all AOS work properly, but if the money and time is spent to find a well thought out and built can or separator, then the results will be ideal.


Just fyi though, even the newer version crawford has issues with the gunk clogging the lines. It doesn't really matter how nice the AOS or catch can is, I have yet to find one that doesn't require periodic maintenance to keep things flowing smoothly.

Last edited by amalgrover; 01-25-2013 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:40 AM   #6853
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Went back to my tuner last night, Mikey Botti, and ripped an Astounding 388Whp and 402Wtq on e85 with A PE1820 turbo, dw850injectors. Blew Mikey's mind Lmfao.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:18 AM   #6854
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post
...to each his own I guess. I am not trying to say that I am against AOS. I am just stating that my personal preference is a catch can, and this is what I always recommend to people when they come to me and ask which one I suggest they get. Not all catch cans work properly, just like not all AOS work properly, but if the money and time is spent to find a well thought out and built can or separator, then the results will be ideal.


Just fyi though, even the newer version crawford has issues with the gunk clogging the lines. It doesn't really matter how nice the AOS or catch can is, I have yet to find one that doesn't require periodic maintenance to keep things flowing smoothly.
I'll keep an eye on the lines, it must be the return line that clogs? Or maybe it's the VC line or the cross pipe line that clogs? I can't imagine the can itself loading up if you have it installed correctly with the can high enough to drain back into the y fitting installed at the stock (deleted) PCV location. I run a WL strut bar and I had to make a custom bracket to hold the Crawford AOS so that it was in front of the strut bar and high enough to drain back. Once you're up to operating temps and the can is warm it prevents any condensation. I don't drive my car in the winter in MI unless it's dry and snow free, so I'm not dealing with the colder temps that contribute to the gunk build up.

The Grimm Speed AOS does not work, I beta tested it and all it's updates with my 310 WHP, 340 WTQ stage 2 build and it was OK when you were not pushing the car but as soon as you drove aggressively it loaded/ gunked up, quit venting and caused excessive crank case pressure. I left my test version on too long and it contributed to seal degradation on the hot side of my VF48. As a test for my self to determine it's effectiveness, I installed a Greddy can inline after the GS AOS and you would not believe how much oil and water it collected on a my stock, healthy EJ255 that showed 150 psi across all 4 cyl. and 10, 10, 10, 5 % leak down. I almost filled the can up in a few months time!

Last edited by manitou; 01-25-2013 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:28 AM   #6855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
The Grimm Speed AOS does not work, I beta tested it and all it's updates with my 310 WHP, 340 WTQ stage 2 build and it was OK when you were not pushing the car but as soon as you drove aggressively it loaded/ gunked up, quit venting and caused excessive crank case pressure. I left my test version on too long and it contributed to seal degradation on the hot side of my VF48. As a test for my self to determine it's effectiveness, I installed a Greddy can inline after the GS AOS and you would not believe how much oil and water it collected on a my stock, healthy EJ255 that showed 150 psi across all 4 cyl. and 10, 10, 10, 5 % leak down. I almost filled the can up in a few months time!
This was my exact experience. It worked great as a DD aos but that's it. Even autocrossing was enough to overrun it and with enough grip and a sweeping right-hander on a track, oil can move up the filler neck and push though it so that's not good.

I switched to the Moroso twin catch can setup and I'm really happy with it. I empty my cans out about every 6 to 8 weeks and break them down for a full cleaning every other oil change. I don't think its too much hassle for the piece of mind and to monitor blow-by.
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:18 PM   #6856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riderome View Post
Went back to my tuner last night, Mikey Botti, and ripped an Astounding 388Whp and 402Wtq on e85 with A PE1820 turbo, dw850injectors. Blew Mikey's mind Lmfao.
Wow, how much timing @ pk trq. to get those numbers?
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:36 PM   #6857
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^ its a dynodynamics at 1.2 CF...take with grain of salt. the 388whp didnt shock you?
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:45 PM   #6858
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Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
^ its a dynodynamics at 1.2 CF...take with grain of salt. the 388whp didnt shock you?
Yes, the 388whp shocked me, i just figured the Peak Tq was high, and in-turn the redline timing would be a little high too.

but with a 1.2 correction, thats like 320 wtq... that's more inline with what i figured with that setup.
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:47 PM   #6859
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actually i was assuming it was on theshopct's dyno...may not have been.

either way, if the boost or timing is pushed on a vf e85 setup the tq number would be 75-100 higher than the hp #. IE, 400tq / 330whp
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:49 PM   #6860
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I don't have too much experience with the smaller vf turbos. just 35R+ on e85.
Thanks for the info!
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:28 PM   #6861
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z0rr0 View Post
I don't have too much experience with the smaller vf turbos. just 35R+ on e85.
Thanks for the info!
I made 360 WHP & 440 WTQ on pnl's dyno with a VF48, MVR ewg and e85 ony stock EJ255!
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:02 PM   #6862
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Let's see the graph.
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:28 PM   #6863
amalgrover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
I'll keep an eye on the lines, it must be the return line that clogs? Or maybe it's the VC line or the cross pipe line that clogs? I can't imagine the can itself loading up if you have it installed correctly with the can high enough to drain back into the y fitting installed at the stock (deleted) PCV location. I run a WL strut bar and I had to make a custom bracket to hold the Crawford AOS so that it was in front of the strut bar and high enough to drain back. Once you're up to operating temps and the can is warm it prevents any condensation. I don't drive my car in the winter in MI unless it's dry and snow free, so I'm not dealing with the colder temps that contribute to the gunk build up.

The Grimm Speed AOS does not work, I beta tested it and all it's updates with my 310 WHP, 340 WTQ stage 2 build and it was OK when you were not pushing the car but as soon as you drove aggressively it loaded/ gunked up, quit venting and caused excessive crank case pressure. I left my test version on too long and it contributed to seal degradation on the hot side of my VF48. As a test for my self to determine it's effectiveness, I installed a Greddy can inline after the GS AOS and you would not believe how much oil and water it collected on a my stock, healthy EJ255 that showed 150 psi across all 4 cyl. and 10, 10, 10, 5 % leak down. I almost filled the can up in a few months time!

The return line is the one that I have had issues with on a couple setups. The coolant running through it significantly helps cut down on condensation, but it doesn't completely prevent it. The version 2 is 100x better than the version 1!

The grimmspeed aos, and others like it, are useless for anyone pushing a decent amount of blowby. They just cannot flow enough to cope with it. It is just like the cheaper catch cans with the smaller 3/8" lines (like the weapon r one that IIR sells). There isn't any baffling, and the lines are too small. So anyone pushing the engine hard or pushing a decent amount of hp will quickly overrun the lines, build up pressure, and actually cause MUCH more blowby than it would have if it were just left routed as stock.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:21 PM   #6864
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post

The return line is the one that I have had issues with on a couple setups. The coolant running through it significantly helps cut down on condensation, but it doesn't completely prevent it. The version 2 is 100x better than the version 1!

The grimmspeed aos, and others like it, are useless for anyone pushing a decent amount of blowby. They just cannot flow enough to cope with it. It is just like the cheaper catch cans with the smaller 3/8" lines (like the weapon r one that IIR sells). There isn't any baffling, and the lines are too small. So anyone pushing the engine hard or pushing a decent amount of hp will quickly overrun the lines, build up pressure, and actually cause MUCH more blowby than it would have if it were just left routed as stock.
I'm with you on the filler top AOS's they get overwhelmed very easily and then inhibit ventilation making them worse than stock! The small cans with no baffling and small fittings are just as bad.

I might insulate the return hose with a sleeve to hold more heat in, that should help! I use Pace Performance for most of that stuff, they have a great selection of insulating and heat shield products.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:03 AM   #6865
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This does help some. I have my guys using an insulating sleeve that completely covers the return line. Keep in mind though, it is impossible to completely remove all moisture from the line, and, once the engine is shutdown, that line will cool, no matter how much insulation you use. I am pretty sure that this is where the buildup is beginning. Like I said before, it is nowhere near as bad as the older version, but it does still require some periodic maintenance. On cars that are pushed harder on a regular basis, it seems to be less of an issue...at least that is my experience with them.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:17 AM   #6866
manitou
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Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post
This does help some. I have my guys using an insulating sleeve that completely covers the return line. Keep in mind though, it is impossible to completely remove all moisture from the line, and, once the engine is shutdown, that line will cool, no matter how much insulation you use. I am pretty sure that this is where the buildup is beginning. Like I said before, it is nowhere near as bad as the older version, but it does still require some periodic maintenance. On cars that are pushed harder on a regular basis, it seems to be less of an issue...at least that is my experience with them.
Yeah I should be ok but I'll check it occasionally. All is very well with my XTI! Junior just sent me new revised maps and I'll flash them in and run more logs. Not a drop of oil used in 2k, 25 mpg on pump, 15ish mpg on e85 but I'm seeing over 400 WTQ by 3600 in 4th gear on E!
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:57 AM   #6867
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Nice! I can't wait to get the new FXT on E...
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:13 PM   #6868
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Nice! I can't wait to get the new FXT on E...
You bought a new FXT? Did you sell the Rex?
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:02 PM   #6869
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Let's see the graph.
It's on the killer b header results thread but I'll post it here when I can
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:20 PM   #6870
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You bought a new FXT? Did you sell the Rex?

It is in the process of being sold right now. I bought an 09 FXT that I am starting as the new project car. I already have 2011 STI struts, springs, sways, and wheels, 2009 WRX SPT catback, and I just picked up a catless downpipe for it. I got told by the boss (aka the wife) that I can't start tuning and playing with this one really until the other one is actually out of the garage. So...I have to wait to put it on E85 until I officially have the bugeye sold.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:53 PM   #6871
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U have a good boss
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:55 PM   #6872
manitou
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Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post

It is in the process of being sold right now. I bought an 09 FXT that I am starting as the new project car. I already have 2011 STI struts, springs, sways, and wheels, 2009 WRX SPT catback, and I just picked up a catless downpipe for it. I got told by the boss (aka the wife) that I can't start tuning and playing with this one really until the other one is actually out of the garage. So...I have to wait to put it on E85 until I officially have the bugeye sold.
You gonna do the STI driveline swap after you sell the WRX? Oh yeah I smell a SH XTI in the works
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:13 PM   #6873
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not sure yet. I plan to push the limits of the 4EAT for a while...after that I don't know what the plan is.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:04 PM   #6874
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not sure yet. I plan to push the limits of the 4EAT for a while...after that I don't know what the plan is.
I think your buyer contacted me about your car.... looks like I might be having some fun with it.
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:33 PM   #6875
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oh really? nice...that would be cool if you did get to do that. it is always nice to follow your old vehicles.
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