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Old 09-21-2013, 10:54 AM   #7651
amalgrover
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Yup! Like I said before, I loved mine. I had my DW300 pump running 13.5V below 5psi of boost, and then 18V above that. It worked perfectly and kept things very nice at idle and cruising, and still gave me enough fuel up top where I needed it. I put down 565whp VD dynojet setting, and with FIC 1250's targeting 11.7:1, my IDC's were only 81%.
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:00 AM   #7652
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I don't know when it changed, but at some point, Subaru started running higher gauge wires back to the stock FPC. On the 2011 STi, they are 14 gauge as far as I can tell. By my math and the amperage ratings, this seemed like plenty for running the walbro 400 up to 25 psi at stock base pressure which is all I wanted to begin with so I got the FuelPro and clipped of the stock FPC plug and ran all the wires into the FuelPro except the ground. I found that using the OEM ground caused the FuelPro to seem to lose or not have the power it needed to ramp up the pump going into higher loads. I grounded the FuelPro directly to the chassis as suggested by jockygolfs and this solved that issue.

I am at 75% IDC at 25 psi on a Dom 3.5 with FiveO 1400's and still using stock rails, lines and FPR. I'll be adding rails, lines and an fpr soon to see how much that drops IDC (if any) and when the built bottom end goes in over the winter, I'll probably re-wire so I can bump base pressure and have the fueling for a little more boost.

I've been meaning to post up my results from my new setup here but I have been really busy lately. I'll get to that soon.
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:27 AM   #7653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post
Yup! Like I said before, I loved mine. I had my DW300 pump running 13.5V below 5psi of boost, and then 18V above that. It worked perfectly and kept things very nice at idle and cruising, and still gave me enough fuel up top where I needed it. I put down 565whp VD dynojet setting, and with FIC 1250's targeting 11.7:1, my IDC's were only 81%.
1250's? That's impressive. My id2000s are at 80% at 30 psi. Stock lines and rails though.
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:26 PM   #7654
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100% stock rails, lines, regulator, etc.
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:12 PM   #7655
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1250's and not 2150's? I assume since you didn't correct me, that they're 1250's.

Of course on a vd dynojet plot my car made 686 whp from a logged run on the dyno that read 559 whp. So who knows.

I think my pump falls off just a little since my base pressure is 50 psi. So plus 30 would put the pump trying to keep up with id2000s at 80 psi fuel pressure. Lol. Stock lines and rails. Fuel lab regulator now because I thought I might get some headroom with a small bump in base pressure. It didn't change really other than possibly making the pump struggle just a little up top with higher pressure.
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:45 PM   #7656
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just to add,

2005 STi

DW 850cc injectors (swapping out to DW1100cc's this week)
DW300 fuel pump
Blouch Dom3XT-R 10cm, oem inlet size, 20psi
IDC's are mid 90's at the top of 3rd gear (will change obviously once i get the 1100's in)
11.5-11.75 AFR gas eqiv.
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403whp/360lbft 3rd gear pull on VD



ignore the afr on the plot, its from the oem primary o2.

quite a big jump from 340whp/330tq on pump 91 at the same boost. i can't wait to take advantage of the larger injectors, but will stop when i reach a comfortable IDC at whatever PSI that is, OR the limit of my oem clutch (with about 10k miles on it), OR until the DW300 can't keep up.....

im just glad i live reasonably close, 8 miles, from the nearest e85 pump. mpg isn't horrendous, about 13-14 mpg.
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Old 09-22-2013, 12:08 PM   #7657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXt4cy View Post
I don't know when it changed, but at some point, Subaru started running higher gauge wires back to the stock FPC. On the 2011 STi, they are 14 gauge as far as I can tell. By my math and the amperage ratings, this seemed like plenty for running the walbro 400 up to 25 psi at stock base pressure which is all I wanted to begin with so I got the FuelPro and clipped of the stock FPC plug and ran all the wires into the FuelPro except the ground. I found that using the OEM ground caused the FuelPro to seem to lose or not have the power it needed to ramp up the pump going into higher loads. I grounded the FuelPro directly to the chassis as suggested by jockygolfs and this solved that issue.

I am at 75% IDC at 25 psi on a Dom 3.5 with FiveO 1400's and still using stock rails, lines and FPR. I'll be adding rails, lines and an fpr soon to see how much that drops IDC (if any) and when the built bottom end goes in over the winter, I'll probably re-wire so I can bump base pressure and have the fueling for a little more boost.

I've been meaning to post up my results from my new setup here but I have been really busy lately. I'll get to that soon.
What do you think of the FuelPro and in your opinion is it a good upgrade to supply higher voltage and amperage to the Walbro 465 pump?
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:22 PM   #7658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post

What do you think of the FuelPro and in your opinion is it a good upgrade to supply higher voltage and amperage to the Walbro 465 pump?
What he said.
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:43 PM   #7659
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Weldon 2035 ftw lol. 24% percent duty cycle at 40 psi and 8500
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:53 AM   #7660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
What do you think of the FuelPro and in your opinion is it a good upgrade to supply higher voltage and amperage to the Walbro 465 pump?
Its really hard to say because I can't compare the fuelpro to anything else and I didn't try to see what the stock FPC would do at high boost. It was fine at 21 psi but it would get very hot and I didn't want to worry about it failing while I was out on the road. From Walbro's chart, the 400 draws a lot of current, much more than I'm sure the stock FPC is going to handle for long. I'm not surprised people have seen them fail when they switch to the 400.

I will say that the classic GR "stumble" is actually finally gone for the first time ever. I've tried everything from the GD FPR, 3 foot fuel hose mod, endless tuning compensation adjustments, etc. My stumble was very slight and didn't even bother me but it was always there. It shifted a bit with the 1400cc injectors but after the fuelpro went in, it finally is at a point where I don't feel it at all. I think the fuelpro does do a better job with being smooth in ramping up the pump duty. Perhaps this is a big part of the issue.

Again, my plan to is add rails, lines and an adjustable FPR. Then, when I am ready to crank the boost up next year, I'll find out if direct wiring the FuelPro for power and running high gauge lines from it to the pump helps with fuel delivery or not.

My goal with my '11 is for it to be a car that I can road trip 1000 miles, run low 11's at the strip, and run competitive times at the road course. I don't want a surge tank or 3 pumps in my trunk. I don't want to hardwire my pump either and have it running 100% all the time. I think the 400, the fuelpro and some 1400's are the ticket for my needs. Time will tell though. My confidence level for longevity is not real high yet but once I have some more miles on it, I'll feel better. My trunk currently contains a zip lock bag with everything needed to wire my stock FPC back on in the event of a failure.

Last edited by WRXt4cy; 09-23-2013 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:01 AM   #7661
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Haha I thought I was the only one my trunk has all I need to convert the pump back to 100% duty in the case of my fpc failing lol. I am pretty intrigued by the fuelpro and may go that route in the future. I just switched my 400 from running 100% to running off the fpc and so far so good. I still have it wired from the battery to the relay with 10g wire but I have the pump grounded through the fpc instead of to the chassis for better control. If it fails all I have to do is ground the pump back to chassis again and it will be back at 100%.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:43 AM   #7662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate_fisher View Post
Haha I thought I was the only one my trunk has all I need to convert the pump back to 100% duty in the case of my fpc failing lol. I am pretty intrigued by the fuelpro and may go that route in the future. I just switched my 400 from running 100% to running off the fpc and so far so good. I still have it wired from the battery to the relay with 10g wire but I have the pump grounded through the fpc instead of to the chassis for better control. If it fails all I have to do is ground the pump back to chassis again and it will be back at 100%.
Haha - I've seen too many friends get stranded with fuel system control failures. I'll even pack an old fuel pump for the first few months when I install a new one.
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Old 09-23-2013, 03:34 PM   #7663
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Well great minds think alike I suppose lol.
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Old 09-23-2013, 03:35 PM   #7664
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^^I've had my 465 installed since last summer and then re-wired through the stock fpc since last November. So far so good but I would like to make sure it has a good voltage and amperage supply when it's in the 100% duty.

If the FuelPro does this then I think I may install one. I emailed with Jeff Reid over the weekend and he said it's imperative to mount it to a metal surface and make sure it has good ventilation. I have a few computer component heat sinks kicking around so I may mount the FuelPro to one of those and then mount it near the fuel pump area where I have my 30 amp fuel pump relay mounted.

That's not a bad idea to have parts on hand in the trunk for the conversion to 100% and or back to the stock controller I may just wire modular so i can switch back without tools!
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:35 PM   #7665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
^^I've had my 465 installed since last summer and then re-wired through the stock fpc since last November. So far so good but I would like to make sure it has a good voltage and amperage supply when it's in the 100% duty.

If the FuelPro does this then I think I may install one. I emailed with Jeff Reid over the weekend and he said it's imperative to mount it to a metal surface and make sure it has good ventilation. I have a few computer component heat sinks kicking around so I may mount the FuelPro to one of those and then mount it near the fuel pump area where I have my 30 amp fuel pump relay mounted.

That's not a bad idea to have parts on hand in the trunk for the conversion to 100% and or back to the stock controller I may just wire modular so i can switch back without tools!
When you open the FuelPro (which you need to do to wire it up) you unscrew and remove the top cover from the plastic hobby box that the circuit board sits in. You'll find that on the inside the pastic cover is a trimmed piece of aluminum that appears to be hot-glued down. (it can wiggle a bit) This metal "heatsink" touches a metal pronged piece coming off circuit board when the cover is screwed on. The metal pronged piece is obviously what gets really hot and it is supposed to transfer the heat into the metal sheet.

So - installation - Jeff does say to mount it to a metal surface but how is that supposed to work? The bottom of the box does not get hot at all. The top cover is what cooks, even at idle. So should the top of the box be secured down to a metal surface? How would you then open the lid without having to remove it from its mounting. Its like the heatsink should be in the bottom of the box and the circuit board could be mounted to the top cover. Then it would make sense to fasten the bottom of the box down to a metal surface.

I chose to take the bracket off my stock FPC, 3M'd it to the fuelpro bottom and then installed the fuelpro into the location where the stock FPC mounts. It should see some air in this location and be able to shed heat, at least that's my thinking. After a drive out to Byron, IL and back, it feels like the top cover might have warped a bit from the heat but I haven't had it out to inspect it yet.

I feel like the fuelpro has a solid circuitry design and works exactly as it should but the case and heatsink feel "cheap" to me. I can't argue with the price of it though, it seems like a great value. I just wish it cooled better and I'm also temped to mod the cooling like you are talking about.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:21 PM   #7666
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXt4cy View Post
When you open the FuelPro (which you need to do to wire it up) you unscrew and remove the top cover from the plastic hobby box that the circuit board sits in. You'll find that on the inside the pastic cover is a trimmed piece of aluminum that appears to be hot-glued down. (it can wiggle a bit) This metal "heatsink" touches a metal pronged piece coming off circuit board when the cover is screwed on. The metal pronged piece is obviously what gets really hot and it is supposed to transfer the heat into the metal sheet.

So - installation - Jeff does say to mount it to a metal surface but how is that supposed to work? The bottom of the box does not get hot at all. The top cover is what cooks, even at idle. So should the top of the box be secured down to a metal surface? How would you then open the lid without having to remove it from its mounting. Its like the heatsink should be in the bottom of the box and the circuit board could be mounted to the top cover. Then it would make sense to fasten the bottom of the box down to a metal surface.

I chose to take the bracket off my stock FPC, 3M'd it to the fuelpro bottom and then installed the fuelpro into the location where the stock FPC mounts. It should see some air in this location and be able to shed heat, at least that's my thinking. After a drive out to Byron, IL and back, it feels like the top cover might have warped a bit from the heat but I haven't had it out to inspect it yet.

I feel like the fuelpro has a solid circuitry design and works exactly as it should but the case and heatsink feel "cheap" to me. I can't argue with the price of it though, it seems like a great value. I just wish it cooled better and I'm also temped to mod the cooling like you are talking about.
I have not seen one in real life, I'm just repeating what Jeff emailed me. Here's his note:

Hi Allan,

Well if he is using the original wiring gauge that will certainly put more pressure on the controller.
Has your friend installed it on a metal surface (back on a large flat metal surface?) and all the the other surfaces
uncovered (allow air flow)? This is very important to keep the controller cool. Is he using it within the current
specification?
FuelPro supports your pump so no problem here. Please let me know if you have further questions.

Kind regards,
-Jeff Reid
DCCDPro.com

From your description it sounds like the cover should be made out of aluminum then if it has the heat sink plate mounted to it. I'm looking at the photo on the website, is that the aluminum plate with his logo and serial # printed on it?

I would think that the plastic box actually would act like an insulation around the circuit board. He also said that his minimum requirement for wire size feeding it was 16 ga., so that does not sound like the issue.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:09 PM   #7667
WRXt4cy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
I have not seen one in real life, I'm just repeating what Jeff emailed me. Here's his note:

Hi Allan,

Well if he is using the original wiring gauge that will certainly put more pressure on the controller.
Has your friend installed it on a metal surface (back on a large flat metal surface?) and all the the other surfaces
uncovered (allow air flow)? This is very important to keep the controller cool. Is he using it within the current
specification?
FuelPro supports your pump so no problem here. Please let me know if you have further questions.

Kind regards,
-Jeff Reid
DCCDPro.com

From your description it sounds like the cover should be made out of aluminum then if it has the heat sink plate mounted to it. I'm looking at the photo on the website, is that the aluminum plate with his logo and serial # printed on it?

I would think that the plastic box actually would act like an insulation around the circuit board. He also said that his minimum requirement for wire size feeding it was 16 ga., so that does not sound like the issue.
He told me that my original wiring was fine since it was 14g but who knows... I bought some 12g to run from direct from the battery through a 40a relay to be switched by the power wire from the oem fpc power wire. I just haven't hooked that up because I wanted to see this controller just wired in place of the stock one and because Jeff seemed to indicate that this would be fine. My math on the current draw suggested it was fine as well.

The issue isn't even in boost. You can start the car up and just let it idle and that box will just cook the top. Like I said, mine is mounted on the metal surface where the stock FPC sits. It is open on all sides like he suggests but I don't see any point in fully mounting the bottom to a metal surface. It doesn't shed any heat out of the bottom. I think the top of the box should be a large metal heatsink with cooling fins, somewhat like the stock FPC uses.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:03 PM   #7668
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I can honestly say the fuel pump will be happier if the power comes from the battery not the fpc. In the long run this will save the fpc.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:11 PM   #7669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretchedk7 View Post
I can honestly say the fuel pump will be happier if the power comes from the battery not the fpc. In the long run this will save the fpc.
I completely agree. My quest is to find the best solution to pass power to the pump but without running it directly and at full power all the time.

For a weekend/track car, its not a big deal (to me) but for a DD that I take on road trips from time to time, I'd rather have my pump running at a lower duty while I'm cruising for hours at a time.

That reminds me of my other issue with the FuelPro - just like with hardwiring, it runs the pump all the time, even when the engine is off. I was hoping it would work like the stock FPC and shutoff when the duty signal goes to 0 volts (indicating that the engine is off) but it doesn't work that way. It does use the duty voltage signal to ramp up the pump but it doesn't use it to turn off the pump. That's kind of a safety concern. If you get in a bad accident and your pump keeps supplying fuel that is leaking out... you run a big risk there. Again, with a weekend/track car or safety kill switches, etc its not a big deal. But in my opinion, this is dangerous for a DD car. I know the fuelpro, like so many other aftermarket products is "for off road use only" so its a use it at your own risk deal to begin with but obviously most of use our cars on the road anyway.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:25 PM   #7670
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I would imagine that it would get the hottest with lower pump duty cycle. It is just limiting current to the pump, right? So it would make sense that, with the same amount of current going in and less to the pump (lower duty cycle), it would dissipate in the form of heat.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:40 PM   #7671
WRXt4cy
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This is getting to the end of my understanding but I believe the pump duty is actually lowered by cycling the current on/off at a varying rate. So at 100%, the current is constant but at 50%, the current is switched off half the time. I guess maybe the switching is what creates the heat but I'm not certain on that.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:42 PM   #7672
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It's only going to flow what it's going to use. There must be some capacitors and resistors limiting/ controlling voltage and current so I would think it's going to create heat regardless. Smaller wire feeding it may make it work harder for the higher duties which will also cause heat. I don't know for sure but I'd like to discuss this all with Jeff a bit more before I buy one.

Sounds to me like he undersized the heat sink(s) a bit. This is one of the biggest drop in pumps so it's probably taxing the limits of this controller.

Jeff asked me to send him the specs on the Walbro 465a s he wasn't intimately familiar with it, which I did.

There is always the Kenne Bell BAP and that's proven itself.
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:50 PM   #7673
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If you guys could- run the pump off the fpc at normal voltage or as low as possible. Power the boost a pump off battery and have that send the extra juice to the fpc.

I think the issue is these bad boy pumps want juice and this taxes the fpc when you go wot and the fpc is forced to try its best to supply. At least that would be my guess
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:25 AM   #7674
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Speaking of the Kenne bell boost a pump I tried installing it last night and kept popping my fuse to the fuel pump, I'm not sure I was tying into the right wire..

I found the main power wire going directly to my fuel pump hanger but still keep popping the fuse..I think I'm missing something here..
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Old 09-26-2013, 01:25 PM   #7675
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Did you dead short it by mistake?
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