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Old 04-09-2009, 08:39 PM   #51
RallyColtTurbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 GT View Post
do the oil squirters run off the crank main??? that is probly the earlier turbo engines burned through rod bearings!! THAT Happened to my 22T and I think that it is starting on my STi tooo!!! (Ihope not) what do you have to do to block tham (if that in fact will bring better crank pressure??
Properly operating oil squirters will shut off when oil pressure is too low. I don't know what that pressure is, or how many 150K mile squirters still function properly.

I do know that some EJ22Ts have been opened up with a squirter or two in the oilpan and the resulting hole most likely leaking a ton of oil pressure. I personally have dissassembled 4 motors with squirters and found 1 (of 16) squirters out.

FWIW, my builder reccomended keeping them, but checking them for proper operation first. I assume he has a plan to keep them from falling out too (Loctite?).
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:40 PM   #52
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Why would you have the open deck blocks in 2nd and 3rd?
Isn't EJ207 is semiclosed, like the STI EJ257? I'm not sure about the 208, but I would guess it is.

EJ20K and EJ20R are open deck.
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:32 PM   #53
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Isn't EJ207 is semiclosed, like the STI EJ257? I'm not sure about the 208, but I would guess it is.

EJ20K and EJ20R are open deck.
indeed the ej207 and ej208 are semi closed the ej208 is basically the same just designed for the twin turbo setup of the b4 and gt-b. however the ej20k and ej20r are the same thing again the ej20r is basically the same as the ej20k but designed for the twin turbo setup. i know we have taken both apart as i have an ej20r with spun bearings in my driveway and my friend has an ej20k with spun bearings in his driveway. i would say the ej20g is one of the strongest jdm shortbolcks but the bearings and coolant flow are awful. here in the bahamas we have spun at least 10 ej20g and only 4 ej20k/r i know cause i am the one they turn to to get info(which is stupid cause i dont know that much). btw we have more sti's here than wrx's. ah well if anyone else has any more info please set me straight i am always willing to learn.
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Old 04-10-2009, 01:04 PM   #54
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indeed the ej207 and ej208 are semi closed the ej208 is basically the same just designed for the twin turbo setup of the b4 and gt-b. however the ej20k and ej20r are the same thing again the ej20r is basically the same as the ej20k but designed for the twin turbo setup. i know we have taken both apart as i have an ej20r with spun bearings in my driveway and my friend has an ej20k with spun bearings in his driveway. i would say the ej20g is one of the strongest jdm shortbolcks but the bearings and coolant flow are awful. here in the bahamas we have spun at least 10 ej20g and only 4 ej20k/r i know cause i am the one they turn to to get info(which is stupid cause i dont know that much). btw we have more sti's here than wrx's. ah well if anyone else has any more info please set me straight i am always willing to learn.
Odd it's quite the opposite here in New Zealand. Everytime a 20K goes pop it's never suprising. But to hear of a 20G going pop is a rareity and usually raises eyebrows.
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Old 04-10-2009, 05:47 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by RallyColtTurbo View Post
Properly operating oil squirters will shut off when oil pressure is too low. I don't know what that pressure is, or how many 150K mile squirters still function properly.

I do know that some EJ22Ts have been opened up with a squirter or two in the oilpan and the resulting hole most likely leaking a ton of oil pressure. I personally have dissassembled 4 motors with squirters and found 1 (of 16) squirters out.

FWIW, my builder reccomended keeping them, but checking them for proper operation first. I assume he has a plan to keep them from falling out too (Loctite?).
Every closed deck engine, except 2, I have ever taken the pan off of has had at least one loose quirter in the pan. That's probably 14 or 15 Ej20G's and Ej22T's. One 22T even had 3 of the four squirters in the pan. The only exceptions were a 1991 Legacy EJ20G and my RS-RA engine. Per both Trey Cobb's and Quirt Crawford's recommendations to me, on the rebuilds I have done with them I just capped them off.
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:22 PM   #56
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Every closed deck engine, except 2, I have ever taken the pan off of has had at least one loose quirter in the pan. That's probably 14 or 15 Ej20G's and Ej22T's. One 22T even had 3 of the four squirters in the pan. The only exceptions were a 1991 Legacy EJ20G and my RS-RA engine. Per both Trey Cobb's and Quirt Crawford's recommendations to me, on the rebuilds I have done with them I just capped them off.
I've heard all the stories. The only reason I'm even considering keeping the squiters is because I trust my builder and, if you can get them to stay put, there is value in keeping them. Even at that I'm still leaning towards not using them. I'm going to ask how he plans to keep them in.

Sorry for the O.T.
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:26 PM   #57
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If there is value in keeping them, why were they removed from the 22b block? (devil's advocate)
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:48 PM   #58
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If there is value in keeping them, why were they removed from the 22b block? (devil's advocate)

Touché. But is it a matter of removing them, or simply not adding them? IIRC, no phase 2 block has squirters.

How have you been plugging them? Have the plugs stayed? From Subaru are the squirters undersize or the threads in the block oversize?
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:05 AM   #59
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When I said "removed" I mean they were taken off the design. They were never on that engine.

We plug them with a little allen headed AN fitting. It's just an off the shelf part we've got around for the tranny business. We just retap the threads a little larger and thread in the plug with some threadlock. Just think of it along the lines of how a machine shop plugs the gallies in a crank after they've cleaned it. Same sort of approach.

As for the undersize oversise question I don't think it's either. I think they just come loose over time.
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Old 04-12-2009, 11:39 AM   #60
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do you think thaat it is losing you crank pressure!! especially when they fall out !!!
I wanna build the 22t block what heads did the 22B uuse like Ej20k or Ej20g or its own type !! wanna put either 20g or k heads on the 22t's block!!
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Old 04-12-2009, 03:46 PM   #61
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The 22B heads were later heads with the shim under bucket design. The Ej20K would be the closest easily procurred heads.
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:55 PM   #62
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so if I got some 20k heads and pit them on the 22T block it would be close to the same I gotta rebuild it first then find the heads or take them off the 20g
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Old 04-13-2009, 12:35 PM   #63
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the 20k heads are higher compression than the 20g i believe so make sure you run the appropriate head gasket.
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:22 PM   #64
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the 20k heads are higher compression than the 20g i believe so make sure you run the appropriate head gasket.
He doesn't really have to worry about that if he's using stock Ej22t pistons. That block is used with heads that have teeny little combustion chambers stock. Most all of the JDM Ej20 heads put you in the low to mid 7's when mated to the EJ22T bottom end.
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Old 04-14-2009, 11:25 AM   #65
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wow, did not know, thanks!
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:54 PM   #66
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could I ues after market 8.5 to 1 pistons in this build maybe with the 20 G heads unless I find a very good deal on 20k heads!!! but yeah the Ej20G seems awsome!!! but the rod bearings scare me especially since I don't know how this engine was treated before!!
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:16 PM   #67
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Check the cylinder head thread over in Conversions for exact numbers but you could use those pistons. IIRC, USDM Ej205 heads are 45cc and Ej20G's are more like 46 or 47cc. All of the Ej20 heads are pretty close to each other except the early early Legacy EJ20G which is a massive 57cc. I never remember the exact numbers for each variant, but the specs are out there if you search for them.
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:25 PM   #68
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thanks man I hope my G holds out it's got a very noisy valve train I think!! cause I'm not used to what noises to expect outta flat 4 I know rod nock differences in my Yotas but the 22t had no signs of going the only thing that sounded bad was in neutral if you lightly reved the engine it would make a loud kinda detionation sound
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:36 AM   #69
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EJ205 heads are 49-51 cc
EJ20G/K/H/R heads are 46-47 cc
EJ257 heads are close to 54 cc

By the way, EJ208 is also open deck!
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:22 AM   #70
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pretty sure the ej208 is not open deck, maybe semi-closed but i highly doubt its open, i dont think any turbo ej motor was open.
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:04 PM   #71
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........ i dont think any turbo ej motor was open.
Before you get hammered by the regulars.....MOST Turbo EJ motors have been open. From the EJ20Gs all the way up to the EJ205s.

Most CURRENT EJ turbo motors are semi closed.
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:46 PM   #72
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its a 2.0 turbo engine commonly found in non rs or sti scoobies
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:03 PM   #73
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its a 2.0 turbo engine commonly found in non rs or sti scoobies
You really are new here. Your intro thread screams out FRESH MEAT.

Have you skipped bulk of the thread and trying to wow us with your incredible knowledge?

I'm not really wanting to flame you but come on, stop making it so easy.
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:57 PM   #74
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are the lash adjusters in the later STi 20g heads under the bucket or are they on arms ??? I need to fix that noise cause its starting to bother me are these engines ussally noisy??
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:09 PM   #75
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are the lash adjusters in the later STi 20g heads under the bucket or are they on arms ??? I need to fix that noise cause its starting to bother me are these engines ussally noisy??

If it's an STI AND an EJ20G (90 degree turbo), it should have hydraulic lash adjusters under the buckets. I believe that a '96 Legacy EJ25 has compatable HLAs.

If it has "arms" that indicates it's a Legacy EJ20G (2-bolt coils). If it is indeed a Legacy motor the HLAs are the same as any first gen SOHC Legacy. They are known to be troublesome, but a good cleaning will usually get them back in line. Cleaning is not easy however.

Is it possible it's an STI EJ20K (under manifold turbo)? Those should have shims under the bucket and to adjust them requires spare shims.
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