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Old 04-14-2002, 09:32 PM   #1
Poppa smurf
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Member#: 8257
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Washington & Frederick CO. MD
Vehicle:
2004 STI
Silver\Silver

Default For the MAF afflicted

Quote:
I know this isn't rock solid info, but my boss at work has a 98 T/A that is extensively modded and he said that he read online somewhere that at wider open throttle, the Granatelli let's more air through but because there is no screen, the air is not directed and it becomes turbulant, whereas the SLP MAF( or any other aftermarket larger MAF) has a screen and directs the air into the throttle body. Therefore, the aftermarket screened MAF's seem to produce a little bit more power. I will talk to my boss tomorrow and ask him who his source is.
From Here

The 99 firebirds have a hot film MAF also and some have this screen on them to straighten out airflow. Has anyone applied this to the MY98-99ís yet? Interesting read for anyone interested.
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Old 04-14-2002, 10:02 PM   #2
Peaty
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Location: Lawrence, KS
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2010 Legacy 3.6R Lim
Azurite Blue Pearl

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I cleaned my MAF the other day. We already have a screen in front of the MAF now.
I have a pic of it somewhere.
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Old 04-14-2002, 10:07 PM   #3
Poppa smurf
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Cleaned your MAF? Heck I am afraid if I breathe on it wrong it will go bad. Can you enlighten me on how to clean it?
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Old 04-14-2002, 10:17 PM   #4
HndaTch627
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'09 Concours 14 ABS Black

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actually the granatelli mass air flow also has a much larger diameter then the stocker GM uses.

jeremy
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Old 04-14-2002, 10:21 PM   #5
Peaty
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Azurite Blue Pearl

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Not a good pic but you can see the screen
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Old 04-14-2002, 10:25 PM   #6
Peaty
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Azurite Blue Pearl

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I have a procedure somewhere let me look. I just sprayed it with some good contact cleaner. the kind that dosen't leave any residue. What can I say I'm daring

I have this one but I haven't tried this one yet:


MAF cleaning
I found a much better way to clean the MAF sensor - no need to run the motor and risk damaging the heated elements (or the catalytic converters for that matter). The MAF will have to be removed altogether. To do the very best job, you'll have to remove the sensor itself from the cylindrical body. Remove the two larger screws only. This requires the use a size T20 'security' torx screwdriver bit (CAN$1.29 available at Preston Hardware, Ottawa). It's a tight fit since there's an O-ring between the sensor and the cylindrical body, but with gentle persuation it will come out. I used spray brake cleaner to clean the sensor itself. Be sure to get a cleaner containing hexane only. Hexane purportedly leaves no residue. Throttle body cleaner contains toluene and, usually, at least one other additive. While toluene may leave no residue (not sure) in itself, I'm not sure about the additives. Don't be afraid to use the entire can - it's only CAN$5 vs CAN$300 for a new MAF.
Find a shop willing to let you use thier compressed air (Canadian Tire was kind enough to let me use thiers). Spray liberally into both channels of the MAF, in both directions, alternating with quick and firm blasts of compressed air. Repeat this cycle until the can is empty. After some inspection I've come to realize the MAF is much more robust than I had initially thought - solid as a rock - it can handle the blast with ease. Your MAF will end up good as new.
My car runs perfect. Idle is solid and unfaltering. There is no hint of hesitation anywhere anytime.
NB: Be carefull when using the brake cleaner. Hexane is a neurotoxic and a central nervous system depressant. It could also be a carcinogen (cause cancer) so make sure there's plenty of fresh air around you.
Ed.
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