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#1 |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:2004 Forester XT Black |
Is there a legit way to flush an oil pump and oil cooler to effectively get rid of all metal shards from a spun bearing? I've read a few threads online and most people say not to risk it and to buy a new one... but oil coolers are damn expensive. Yeah, I know it's not as expensive as ruining a rebuilt block. BUT, if anyone has a method that works I'd like to know. Could I just take it to a car wash, insert the spray nozzle and spray the hell out of it, then use an air compressor to air it dry? Can a machine shop do it?
I looked at deleting the oil cooler in the following thread but I live in Kansas and we have some pretty cold winters so I think keeping the oil cooler/warmer might be a good idea. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2054975 What about the oil pump? Thanks!
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Last edited by Type2; 10-08-2012 at 03:01 PM. Reason: misspelling in title |
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#2 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 226864
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: southern NJ
Vehicle:2005 PSM WRX 18.5lb. 93 oct, DP, UP |
Oil pump comes completely apart easily and opens up a lot so you can clean it right out. You will have to check its clearances though.
The oil cooler has a ton of gallery and no one advises to re-use them. The cost for loss is simply too much, and there are too many small galleries. |
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#3 | |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 226864
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: southern NJ
Vehicle:2005 PSM WRX 18.5lb. 93 oct, DP, UP |
Quote:
![]() There are too many galleys in there. Everyone has been there before, but trying to save a buck on an engine rebuild is not the way to go. I have rebuilt a block and ****ed it all up due to stupid mistakes and cut corners. Do it right or waste all your money to do it right the next time around.. Good luck with the build ![]() -Dave |
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#4 |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:2004 Forester XT Black |
Thanks.
I'm strongly thinking about deleting the oil cooler then. This build has spiraled out of control. I've bought a used block to save money, then found out it has a bent rod (SEE HERE). Still hoping to get a refund. So then I decided to just buy a build block ($1,500 over budget). Things just keep stacking up. Looking to save money any way I can without risking messing up my new block. It's shocking that an oil warmer is $240 |
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#5 |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 81102
Join Date: Feb 2005
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
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You need to step back and do things right...there's a reason i'm not building a rex this second, it must be done right or not at all. Yes it's expensive, but there's simply no reason to risk your hard earned money with skimping. Good luck, pal.
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#6 | |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:2004 Forester XT Black |
Quote:
I would just do an oil cooler delete, but with forged pistons I want my oil to warm up as quickly as possible. Thanks. |
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#7 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 198964
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: south NJ
Vehicle:2004 WRX wgn, built! WRB |
Too many people spin rod bearings with less than 500 miles on a rebuild. Bearing material is extremely hard to get out of the oil cooler and even the rest of a block.. definitly buy a new one.. subaru should make oil cooler cartridges that could be removed and replaced in the event of bearing or turbo failure or smthn...
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#8 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 287974
Join Date: Jul 2011
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