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Old 04-09-2009, 08:47 AM   #26
Scooby South
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Join Date: Sep 1999
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Location: 2013 Limited SWP BRZ and a
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99 Ver6 Recreation
JDM Speedwagon 3 LSDs..:)

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My Sti setup was Similar....

Start with the coilovers....@ 16 clicks from soft in the front....14 clicks from soft in the rear...

I assume your on 10k front and 6k rears??? for spring rates...
Put the rear Sway in the middle setting...

Camber/Castor....rotate the front plates 1 notch so when you slam them they are at a 45degree angle toward the inside strut tower like this / \...that will maximize your camber/castor...should get a decent alignment for a decent shop that knows how to adjust camber plates...

Depending if its loose or tight you usually can adjust with air pressures at this point...if not....Each click on the suspension harder from soft will increase stiffness front or rear...so if the front is loose....Stiffen rear....if the rear is loose..stiffen the front...use this as guideline to increase overall grip..and to dial in your suspension...

It might take you a few runs to understand what the suspension is trying to tell you...but work thru it to try and make the car the best it can be...then...WORK on your DRIVING..

Oh and get rid of the front strut bar...it will cause you to push...without it...You vehicle will turn-in a whole lot better...more crisp....Hope this helps..

Bill
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:57 AM   #27
neilschelly
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Well, you do not want positive camber anywhere. KC's suggestion for getting all that you can applies to the front. With your setup as it is now, you probably also want about all the camber you can get out of the rear too, which will be about the -1 degree or so that KC suggested. Camber bolts will help you get more, but you shouldn't need more.

For the coilovers, what Scooby South suggested may not be too easily followable (don't know what coilovers he had), but it's also highly dependable on the type of course and the quality of the ground. I run my Megan coilovers at full stiff and back them off 2-4 clicks in front and 4-8 clicks in the rear for bumpier pavement. Keep in mind that with the Megans at least, you should be counting clicks from full stiff. That's where the positive stop on the strut adjustment is. Turn all the way to the right (full stiff) and count back from there.

I'll second his suggestion for rotating the camber plates for maximum castor too. That's positive castor, and while it will limit a bit the amount of negative camber you can get, you should feel a decent improvement in steering response to make up for t.
-N
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:58 AM   #28
Scooby South
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99 Ver6 Recreation
JDM Speedwagon 3 LSDs..:)

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oh yeah...one other thing while I am thinking about it... Your suspension "drop" should be for optimum handling...not the "look"....basically depending on the suspension...your car should have travel both under compression load....and Rebound load...and they should be about equal...so you need to figure out where the center of that arc is between full compression and full rebound....theres a number mesurement associated with that arc...so if you have for example a 8 in arc from full compression to full rebound..you want the coilovers set in the middle of that so its "equal" for both....that will help with the suspension oscillating during cornering...I can't remember what I had mine set to...but I was also running alot bigger tire....

someone here can probably get you in the neighborhood for ride height....

Bill
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:52 AM   #29
68Cadillac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sil3nt_Ch4os View Post
by that my measurement ends up being 13 1/2" on all 4 corners

I still don't know how to tell what spring rate I'm at since it's adjustable (help?) but Megan's site says they're 8kg/front 6kg/rear.
Minimum recommended ride height for the 2007 is 14 inches front and 13.5 inches rear.
Your front must come up at least 0.5". Maybe even .625" to 0.750"
Leave the rear alone or bring it up about 0.125" or so. We're looking for proper suspension geometry not that dumped look.

With your springs are so stiff in the front you may want to switch back to the OEM bar. This is a good thing. Your stiff springs already resist body roll and may not need the stiffer front bar. That bar might even be interfering with your front contact patch.

Rear bar is probably fine.

With all things AutoX you need to test to dial in everything.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:14 PM   #30
dunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
Minimum recommended ride height for the 2007 is 14 inches front and 13.5 inches rear.
Your front must come up at least 0.5". Maybe even .625" to 0.750"
Leave the rear alone or bring it up about 0.125" or so. We're looking for proper suspension geometry not that dumped look.

With your springs are so stiff in the front you may want to switch back to the OEM bar. This is a good thing. Your stiff springs already resist body roll and may not need the stiffer front bar. That bar might even be interfering with your front contact patch.

Rear bar is probably fine.

With all things AutoX you need to test to dial in everything.

I don't think 13.5" is out of line for an autox setup. I don't geometry is as big an issue for an autocross car as a road racing setup. As you're in a constant state of transition, I'd rather have a lower CoG. I'd combat the increased jacking forces from the roll center migration by simply bumping up the front spring rate. If your lot is fairly smooth I think the trade off is worth it.

Raising the front .5" is going to make the car understeer even more unless you're also raising the rear.

-Duncan
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:53 PM   #31
neilschelly
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I'll second that I think having a lower CoG (especially in a heavy car like an Impreza competing against Civics) will be more helpful than proper geometry in autocross, within reason.

I'll also suggest you stick with your current sway bar or go larger. I had the 22mm for the last few years and just upgraded to the 25mm Tribeca bar. I've also got the same coilovers as you, except my front springs are increased to 10k (and the rears are going up to 8k soon). A lot of this will have to do with your ride preferences, especially if the car doubles as a street car (mine doesn't), but that roll resistance in front will be key to maintaining good alignment in the corners by minimizing rolling.

YMMV,
-N
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