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Old 04-09-2009, 11:51 AM   #1
boostinms
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Default Crank pulley removal tips - engine out of car.

Greetings,

I'm replacing my blown engine with a lower mile used engine. Figured it would be wise to swap the head gaskets and timing belt and accessories while the engine is out of the car since I desire a relatively problem free engine hopefully for some time.

Problem is since the engine isn't installed in the car, that eliminates the bump the starter option. I cut up one of the old accessory drive belts and wrapped it around the pully tight and clamped it on with a vice grips - that seemed like it was going to work well but just when I thought the bolt might give way the belt snapped. I do have the option to borrow the Subaru specific tool for the crank pulley, but I took today off to make some progress on this and the wife has our other car so I'm not able to get over there. Anybody have any ideas? It's an automatic, toyed with the idea of wedging something at the other side to stop the motor from turning but the drive plates are fairly flimsy and I'm concerned it would bend/warp it if I tried that.

Any suggestions very much appreciated... I really don't want to waste the rest of the day
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:59 AM   #2
fastenova
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I use a burly flathead screwdriver jammed through the access plug (weird-shaped rubber thing under the IACV) into one of the slots on the flexplate.

Do you have access to air tools? I think an impact gun would make short work of this problem too.

And, I've never had an issue with bending the flexplate.

Good luck!
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:15 PM   #3
boostinms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastenova View Post
I use a burly flathead screwdriver jammed through the access plug (weird-shaped rubber thing under the IACV) into one of the slots on the flexplate.

Do you have access to air tools? I think an impact gun would make short work of this problem too.

And, I've never had an issue with bending the flexplate.

Good luck!
I'll give it a go with this route, I started to try that - just looked like it was wouldn't be healthy for the flexplate. But even if it does bend, you're post did make me realize that I have another flexplate on the old engine that I can use if needed.

Thanks!
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:48 PM   #4
yarrgh
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Impact it off. And don't re-use headgaskets, get new ones.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:03 PM   #5
fastenova
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarrgh View Post
And don't re-use headgaskets, get new ones.
Abso-freakin'-lutely. If you want no immediate maintenance, I'd replace the following with NEW parts (I am assuming it's a 2.5L phase 1 motor for these numbers):

Head gaskets (one per side)
Cam seals (two per side if DOHC, one per side if SOHC)
Crank seal (one)
Rear main seal (one)
Valve cover seals (outer, one per side)
Valve Cover "spark plug" seals (two per side)
Valve cover bolt seals (six per side)
Oil pump o-ring (one)

I'm not sure what year your vehicle is (fill out your profile!!!), or what motor it is, but if it's an early DOHC motor, make sure to replace the plastic oil separator plate with the newer metal one, and seal with silicone. I have always used red hi-temp RTV with success, although it's installed with gray stuff.

You can safely reuse your old head bolts. I'd recommend checking valve clearances while you've got the thing apart. You can also replace the pan gasket if you want, but I had over 200K miles on my old motor and it never leaked at the oil pan.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:39 PM   #6
boostinms
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Replacing the gaskets is the main reason for taking it apart, definitely would never re-use any

It's the EJ25 SOHC from an 02 Forester. Have the gasket set, spark plug hole gaskets, replaced the oil separator with the newer design (with the flat screws instead of the tapered), rear main, basically all of the gaskets/seals I run into along the way along with all of the timing components.

Got the bolt off without incident by wedging a socket handle w/ towel around it in the flexplate and one head done and out of the way. Tried to impact it off, but my impact wrench is a fairly crappy Craftsman that is part of the air tool kit they used to give away with compressors. Finishing things up after a pizza break. Feeling great to finally get this out of the way, have had the replacement used engine and parts I'm replacing on it for a couple of weeks - just haven't had any time between a couple jobs, school, and a couple of days I had to spend with my kid since day-care was closed.

Thanks all
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Old 04-04-2010, 09:56 PM   #7
RR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastenova View Post
I use a burly flathead screwdriver jammed through the access plug (weird-shaped rubber thing under the IACV) into one of the slots on the flexplate.

Do you have access to air tools? I think an impact gun would make short work of this problem too.

And, I've never had an issue with bending the flexplate.

Good luck!
I am battling this right now. Can someone clarify for me what the IACV and the flexplate are?
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Old 04-06-2010, 02:01 AM   #8
Counterfit
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Default Re: Crank pulley removal tips - engine out of car.

Flexplate = flywheel for a car with an automatic. Basically there for the starter to work right.
Iacv = idle air control valve.
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:53 AM   #9
RR
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I have a manual so no flexplate correct, any other ideas for an engine out of the car?
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Old 04-06-2010, 02:01 PM   #10
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Anyone have the torque specs for re-instillation of the under drive? (2000 Imrpreza rs)
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Old 04-06-2010, 02:12 PM   #11
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Default Re: Crank pulley removal tips - engine out of car.

I think Perrin has instructions online.
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Old 04-06-2010, 03:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RR View Post
I have a manual so no flexplate correct, any other ideas for an engine out of the car?
Jam something like a small pry bar into the teeth of the flywheel so that it won't rotate as you break the crank nut.
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:59 PM   #13
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It you cant get an impact use the same method you tried with the cut belt but use a chain vise grip. After putting on the cut belt wrap the chain around the pulley on top of the belt.

Torque specs on the drive pulley are basically "wicked tight" 95-105lbs. If your forester is a 2.2L you may want to put a drop of lock tight on the threads the 2.2 is notorious for loosening up .....I had to get my crank welded due to the key-way getting cheesed after loosening
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Old 04-06-2010, 05:39 PM   #14
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All Fozzies are 2.5 liter engines.
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Old 04-17-2010, 11:28 AM   #15
RR
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Last weekend I picked up a chain wrench from Harbor Freight and I still couldn't get it off. This morning I loaded it in my truck and gave the guy at a shop down the street $5 to take it off with an impact wrench, so much easier.

I'm also in the process of running 220v to my garage, a proper compressor is going to have to be one of my first new tool purchases.
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Old 04-17-2010, 11:19 PM   #16
eppoh
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depending on the kind of stand the engine is on, you may still be able to use the bump start. Just put a long piece of pipe extension on the breaker bar so it wedges against the engine stand leg or even the floor. Then take a jumper cable from battery to starter and touch it once. Should work just fine,
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Old 04-18-2010, 04:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eppoh View Post
depending on the kind of stand the engine is on, you may still be able to use the bump start. Just put a long piece of pipe extension on the breaker bar so it wedges against the engine stand leg or even the floor. Then take a jumper cable from battery to starter and touch it once. Should work just fine,
that would be difficult to do as the starter would be still attached to the transmission... in the car....

might work on some toyotas and such but not a subaru... ever...
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Old 04-18-2010, 04:40 PM   #18
69subaru360
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I lock a pair of vise grips on the flywheel/flexplate to get the crank pulley bolt off. It will wedge agianst the block and stop it from turning. You need a long breaker bar or a pipe to break it loose.
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