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Old 04-10-2009, 10:08 AM   #1
smileyou
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Default Destroked 2.5's

Curious how many are running this setup and how reliable it is. If you are can you elaborate on the setup please.
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:51 AM   #2
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I know none of my betatesters DD their cars but by design, the longrod will have less wear and tear on the motor...bearings, rings, cylinder wall, piston skirt, etc...

I think Turbo mike is the only destroked setup running around daily and he has 10k on his homebuilt off the shelf motor; IIRC. He's at like 6.x:1 compression ratio that I know of because of the use of off the shelf parts.
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:40 PM   #3
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2.35 destroke is very nice setup. You'll see alot more of it soon.
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Old 04-11-2009, 11:33 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Epic Motorsports View Post
2.35 destroke is very nice setup. You'll see alot more of it soon.
yes you will
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Old 04-13-2009, 12:53 AM   #5
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6:1 is that maybe not a interferance motor?
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Old 04-13-2009, 12:58 AM   #6
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That would be the next best setup. Or say any +2mm rod setup?
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Old 04-13-2009, 10:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliew View Post
6:1 is that maybe not a interferance motor?
no joke...but realistically still depends on the cams.
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:07 AM   #8
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Im thinking of using turbo mikes setup

ej205 heads
ej205 rods
ej207 crank
ej257 shortblock

Anyone else have any experience with this setup. Im thinking of throwing some cp forged pistons and maybe some aftermarket ej205 rods in with acl race bearings and cams. Can anyone elaborate if this setup will be better to use all stock off the shelf parts or aftermarket parts. Can anyone elaborate...Homemade?
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:36 AM   #9
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I've already pointed out the downsides of running all stock parts for this setup.

If you are going with off the shelf, at least get +2mm rods. It will at least get the quench height in the right area and help bring up compression ratio.

Decided to jog some quick numbers to show you what happens without doing +2 rods...using the same values for everything but making the later, simply, 2mm below deck (factory rod and STi piston)
you go from a 8.3:1 to 7.1:1
on a 100mm bore, -16.1CC, 57cc head (JE's published values for the STi heads), 75mm stroke, .040" HG @ 100mm.


These were done with disregard to actual deck height and compression height, where results will typically be even lower compression than tested as most all aftermarket piston manufacturers cut pistons short to be sure stay below deck to reduce user error. You'll find that in the fine print.
So realworld would be more like 8.1:1 and 6.95:1.

Now even with +2mm rods take into consideration the the pistons designed use for combustion chambers (read up on the hybrid 2.5L issues). Though compression ratio debate won't be of concern for this application. Spool up should be similar to an EJ22 with +2mm rods and STi pistons with minimal rod length increase...about 1.77:1

Last edited by Homemade WRX; 04-13-2009 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 04-13-2009, 12:19 PM   #10
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Would this be a decent motor to run with the +2mm rods?
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:02 PM   #11
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Default Down Stroked 2.3

Im running a Downstroked 2.3 liter that Mike and I made. You definetly dont want to use stock rods or pistons. Also you need to take into consideration that whatever you might see for tuning subarus doesnt apply to this motor. All the timing is different so you should see someone that can tune it. But overall its the most reliable motor I've ever driven (in a subaru) We are limited to 30 PSI on a GT35r .82a/r because of fuel injector limitations. It runs like a corrola on the highway when cruising and just torque steers in every gear to revlimit. Highly reccomend the motor, but highly reccomend you let someone build it that has experience with it. Also if balanced right you are able to cruise down the road at any rpm over 1200... If you feel like driving to work at 5000rpm the motor doesnt care... 6th gear at 40mph... doesnt car. i dont know if that appeals to anyone but me... with the exhaust i have and open gate its always good to have someway to be quiet.
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamofo View Post
Im running a Downstroked 2.3 liter that Mike and I made. You definetly dont want to use stock rods or pistons. Also you need to take into consideration that whatever you might see for tuning subarus doesnt apply to this motor. All the timing is different so you should see someone that can tune it. But overall its the most reliable motor I've ever driven (in a subaru) We are limited to 30 PSI on a GT35r .82a/r because of fuel injector limitations. It runs like a corrola on the highway when cruising and just torque steers in every gear to revlimit. Highly reccomend the motor, but highly reccomend you let someone build it that has experience with it. Also if balanced right you are able to cruise down the road at any rpm over 1200... If you feel like driving to work at 5000rpm the motor doesnt care... 6th gear at 40mph... doesnt car. i dont know if that appeals to anyone but me... with the exhaust i have and open gate its always good to have someway to be quiet.

Can you please elaborate on your setups componets/builder and power?
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Old 04-13-2009, 03:03 PM   #13
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I built it with Mike

EJ207 Crank
Weisco Pistons 100mm
Eagle Rods
Cosworth #1 Bearings
04 STI Heads
Inconnel Valves Intake and Exhaust
BC Springs
BC Cams 272
08 STI Oil Pump Shimmed
07 EJ25 Block
Thats the block at least.

Last edited by Bamofo; 04-13-2009 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 04-13-2009, 03:16 PM   #14
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how does it spool that 35? also where did you set the rev limit?

love the review btw, makes me wanna get one
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Old 04-13-2009, 03:19 PM   #15
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Rev limit is currently at 9000. we were goign to turn it up to 10k but theres really no need at all. Its fully balanced to do 10k but the only time that would happen is at the track..

GT35R spools at 4200rpm with no AVCS. Stupid speed density is messing up the stock ECU.

Just a note that i do drive 120miles a day. So if your wondering about reliable.
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Old 04-13-2009, 03:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamofo View Post
Rev limit is currently at 9000. we were goign to turn it up to 10k but theres really no need at all. Its fully balanced to do 10k but the only time that would happen is at the track..

GT35R spools at 4200rpm with no AVCS. Stupid speed density is messing up the stock ECU.

Just a note that i do drive 120miles a day. So if your wondering about reliable.
I drive mine from mass to NY, NJ, NH and anywhere else to the track and back all the time as well.

Tony's is the more high budget model, mine's a bit more on a budget since I didnt even know if it would run when I built it.
The main differences:
Tony has an EJ207 crank, I have EJ205
Tony is using STi heads, I'm using 2.0 WRX heads.
Tony is using cosworth bearings, I'm using ACL.
Tony has inconel valves, mine are stock.

Otherwise the 2 motors are identical. I was running 32 psi daily with the 35R on it on pump gas. Ran best of 11.41 in the quarter, no problem hitting rev limiter in any gear. I set it at 8250 and powershifted at 8200.

Initially I broke the motor in with a VF34, and it felt and performed very similair to a 2.0L, just with more torque. Made 284hp at the wheels at 17psi, standard hybrid numbers. The motor doesnt really wake up until about 27 psi because of the super low compression, so the only way I'd reccomend using this setup is if you plan to have a turbo that can provide efficient boost at that high of pressure. I sold my 35R to tony, and a bigger turbo is in the works so we can see the true performance capability of this engine.
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Old 04-13-2009, 04:48 PM   #17
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interesting, so if i want something that is going to rev 8.5-9k in similar set up, what heads would you recommend and also bearings, and how are you de-stroking the block, and also what compression would you recommend.
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Old 04-13-2009, 05:18 PM   #18
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How much better is the oiling in the ej207 crank than other ej2xx cranks
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Old 04-13-2009, 05:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devil doc View Post
How much better is the oiling in the ej207 crank than other ej2xx cranks
as posted many times before, especially in the crank shaft thread stickied at the top of the forum under 'good threads' or something along those lines...also those interested in this read the other link "official long rod" thread.

the new EJ205 crank is the same dimension/design wise but just isn't nitrided...see my pics and comparison
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Old 04-13-2009, 05:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
as posted many times before, especially in the crank shaft thread stickied at the top of the forum under 'good threads' or something along those lines...also those interested in this read the other link "official long rod" thread.

the new EJ205 crank is the same dimension/design wise but just isn't nitrided...see my pics and comparison
Hey micah r u planning on basing ur rotating asemblies around the ej207 crank or a billet 75mm crank?
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Old 04-13-2009, 06:32 PM   #21
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they're based on the new factory 205 cranks because they are much cheaper, quicker and easier to source than an 207 crank...billet's are optional for all builds.
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:01 PM   #22
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Would this work with a EJ2501 instead of the EJ2507? I have an extra block is why I ask.
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:07 PM   #23
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yup...any 2.5L block
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Old 04-13-2009, 10:45 PM   #24
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plus running the stock rod length compared to longer dosen't reap one of the benefits to its full extent, as the longer rods help you to apply the force at a more perpendicular angle to the crank. force (perpendicular to radius) * radius = torque
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Old 04-13-2009, 10:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamofo View Post
I built it with Mike

EJ207 Crank
Weisco Pistons 100mm
Eagle Rods
Cosworth #1 Bearings
04 STI Heads
Inconnel Valves Intake and Exhaust
BC Springs
BC Cams 272
08 STI Oil Pump Shimmed
07 EJ25 Block
Thats the block at least.
That's with stock WRX/STi rod length?
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