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Old 04-11-2009, 12:15 PM   #1
Meatbawl
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Impreza WRX Meatys DIY TGV Delete Guide

MEATYS TGV DELETE GUIDE

Note: To successfully do this modification, you must have the means to make changes to your ECU to allow it. Otherwise you will have a Check Engine light, and possibly go into limp/rich mode.


Step 1: Remove your TGV's from the Intake Manifold. Lay on a flat sturdy surface and use a dremel with a sanding or grinding bit to the knubs on the bottom of the the screws. Then use a #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the plate screws holding on the TGV plates to the center rod.




Step 2: Use a punch pin, or even a flat blade screwdriver and hammer the rod out of the TGV housings. If any bearings stay in the holes and fail to come out with the rod, try to hammer those out also with the punch pin.



Step 3: Remove all black o-rings and seals. Using a tap kit with a M10 x 1.0 tap bit, slowly work the bit all the way thru the side of the TGV that has the round lip on it. Clean out the threads when finished.



Step 4: I had some 10mm 12 point machine screws. If you can locate stainless steel or aluminum machine screws, opt for that first! The thread length will need to be a minimum of 3/4" long, up to about 1" long. Add LIBERAL amounts of JB Weld to the threads of the bolt and under the head of the bolt and tighten down. Allowing the JB Weld to squish out is a good thing.. it ensures a leak-free seal.



Step 5: Thread the screw into the TGV and tighten down as much as you think you can without stripping the threads. The screw should come completely thru to the inside of the TGV where you'll grind it down even later.




Step 6: Flip the TGV over, you will notice your tap kit won't fit at all into the other side. Using a drill press (or a vice and a steady hand with a drill) and a 23/64 drill bit, SLOWLY.. I mean SLOWLY drill out the small "bearing" located inside the hole. Once the drill bit grabs it, it will just pull out. The hole the bearing was located in is now the perfect size for you to use your M10x1.0 tap in


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Old 04-11-2009, 12:16 PM   #2
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Step 7: Using a really big drill bit (I didn't have one on hand, so I used a Dremel with a small sander bit), bore out, or "countersink" the top of the hole we removed the metal bearing from. Do not go into the threads you just tapped in, we are countersinking the hole so that the screw won't stick out, and so the screw will go all the way thru to the inside of the TGV (This "countersinking" step can be skipped if you have a bolt that is longer than 3/4") Make sure to check that the screw is sticking all the way thru, if no, countersink some more. Add LIBERAL amounts of JB Weld to the threads of the bolt and under the head of the bolt and tighten down.





Step 8: Using a Carbide bit, and a die-grinder (or dremel if you have the time & patience), grind out each side of the plate dividing the TGV. I had to stop every now and then and clean the carbide bit with a utility knife because the aluminum likes to lodge itself in the teeth. Some people have used a air-saw or sawzall to get these plates out with success also.




Step 9: Once you cut the plate out, grind down each remaining parts of the plate down to the surrounding surface. Be sure to not grind into the mating surfaces of the TGV, Gaskets probably don't seal very well when there's big gouges missing in the aluminum




Step 10: Take a grinding bit (or sanding bit if you better than me), and work the inner surfaces of the TGV's nice and smooth. Be sure to remove the lip that the restrictor plates rested on.


Last edited by Meatbawl; 04-11-2009 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 04-11-2009, 12:16 PM   #3
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Optional Steps: Sandblast and coat with a High-Temp ceramic coating (Stay away from the mating surfaces and fuel injector ports with the sandblaster for good measure)




Shown with a pretty red STI intake mocked up




Special Thanks to the awesome guys at IndianaImpreza.com for adding some ideas to this writeup to make it what it is.

Last edited by Meatbawl; 04-11-2009 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:00 PM   #4
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Great write up, reminds me that I could really use a dremel
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:10 PM   #5
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STICKY THIS! Not sure which forum to sticky it under, but I think this deserves a sticky.


Because although I do get paid to do these, I dont like doing them, and dont mind at all if everyone does their own (or sends them to Grimmspeed)


FYI I use a tiny hacksaw to get the divider plates out, its MUCH easier, I think I paid $4 for it. Remove the blade, put it in the housing, hook blade back up to handle with blade inside housing. It cuts the time for removing the divider plates in like 1/4.
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:25 PM   #6
jason miller
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About that divider plate... What's its function? Does it help with fuel atomization? I know what the butterflies are for, and why they're a hindrance to flow. But it seems like that little divider plate wouldn't be all that big of a deal and could possibly help. I guess the real question is, are the divider plates there to serve as a secondary function helping the butterflies, or do they have their own separate function?

Anyone know if the spec c intake manifolds without tgv's still have that divider plate?
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:14 PM   #7
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damn dude, very nice write up. this will help many people
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Old 04-11-2009, 04:58 PM   #8
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subscribed! thanks meaty!
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Old 04-11-2009, 05:11 PM   #9
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nice man, i am actually doing this right now
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Old 04-11-2009, 06:41 PM   #10
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I would suggest plugging the injector ports when you paint, bead blast, etc. it is an o-ring sealing surface afterall. just for good measure if for no other reason.
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Old 04-11-2009, 07:24 PM   #11
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^ I stayed away from the mating surfaces of the TGV's and also the injector ports. I figured that would go without saying, but probably best to mention it Thanks!
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason miller View Post
About that divider plate... What's its function? Does it help with fuel atomization? I know what the butterflies are for, and why they're a hindrance to flow. But it seems like that little divider plate wouldn't be all that big of a deal and could possibly help. I guess the real question is, are the divider plates there to serve as a secondary function helping the butterflies, or do they have their own separate function?

Anyone know if the spec c intake manifolds without tgv's still have that divider plate?
good question, i did my tgvs this evening and i left the divider plate in. my friend who happens to be an engineer and has experience with fluids analyzing came to the conclusion we should leave them alone. lots of engineering went into the flow of the tgvs and i'm NO expert but my understanding is that you want fuel to atomize and spray as a fine mist and over a wide surface, with the help of the divider plate it forces air down near the injector at a higher velocity spreading the fuel out more instead more of a cone type spray which is bad. i guess to each his own, but based on simple engineering laws and functions id say its best to leave them in to not disrupt fuel flow.
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:38 AM   #13
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We always prefer welding ours shut to INSURE no bs could ever happen to them.

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Old 07-28-2009, 11:20 AM   #14
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I'm looking to do this exact mod =)
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Old 08-09-2009, 02:12 AM   #15
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I just want to know what sensors monitor the tgvs i did this mod on my prelude and did not have to tune my ecu if anyone can answer this question it would be greatly appreciated as i am looking to do this mod as well. thanks
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Old 08-09-2009, 02:28 AM   #16
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Now what kind of gains are you looking at by doing this?
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Old 08-09-2009, 02:40 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kl3ver View Post
I just want to know what sensors monitor the tgvs i did this mod on my prelude and did not have to tune my ecu if anyone can answer this question it would be greatly appreciated as i am looking to do this mod as well. thanks
there are sensors and motors on each one, they are all wired up so that if any of them are removed you get an annoying CEL which is why you would need some EM to get rid of it.
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Old 08-09-2009, 10:58 AM   #18
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The last set I did I taped the hole out and jb welded a setscrew in the hole. It worked perfectly.
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:41 AM   #19
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I'm a newb, but what does this do exactly? Why would one do this?
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Old 08-09-2009, 12:06 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bug-Rex View Post
I'm a newb, but what does this do exactly? Why would one do this?
Its removing a major restriction in the intake manifold. There is a ton of info on here about what TGV's do if you search.
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:01 PM   #21
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Old 08-09-2009, 10:02 PM   #22
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so what if i remove the butterflys and leave the motors? that should not throw a code seeing as how they are still going to be functional!
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:41 AM   #23
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^that would work, but you'd have to reinsert the rod and everything, I'd assume you'd still see a little more airflow vs. having the butterflies in.. but there would still be the rod obstruction I guess. In all honesty, I think this mod is more trouble than it's worth. I simply did it since I was in the middle of a new shortblock install. If my car was already running and together, I wouldn't pull it apart for this mod. I noticed nothing in gains, and some people report having rough idle on startup (I haven't yet). I have another set of unmodified TGV's that I will be simply "knife-edging" the center dividers, removing rod and butterflies, and blocking the holes on. I truly think that removing the divider plates is more hassle than it's worth, and leaving them in and simply sharpening the edge will allow for better fuel mixture/turbulence near the injector spray. I'll throw up any results when I get it done.
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:31 PM   #24
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Here's a tip. You can use a Carbide Grit Rod Saw blade for removing the main chunk of aluminium. Takes about 10 minutes for each side.
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Old 09-25-2009, 04:51 PM   #25
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I hate to ask a dumb question but the inner holes from the rod, what do you do with them? leave them? fill them? thanks, Scott
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