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Old 08-24-2009, 08:14 PM   #1
AsphaltsCry
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Default ej20g hard cold start

so i had the typical g hard start for a while. the start then stall then start a second time and run ok.

the problem got gradually funkier and worse.

i thoroughly cleaned the IACV to no help.

then the car would do this thing where i had to hold the key to start like for sometimes 7-8 seconds and it would take a while for it to build and i would hold the accelerator pedal all the way and then it would roar to life....

is that because of the wierd idle issues? or a bad starter? any ideas?
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Old 08-24-2009, 09:20 PM   #2
Aphex28
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I'm gonna toss in the obligatory , fresh gapped plugs? I'd start there, maybe even clean the maf before that.
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:34 PM   #3
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plugs or the tune
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Old 08-25-2009, 12:05 AM   #4
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Yeah almost everyone I know who has an EJ20g has this issue. And after cleaning the IACV it didn't seem to make a difference. Mine starts instantly but then almost stalls out unless I press the gas pedal. That's only on a cold start. Its a common issue but I don't know exactly what causes it yet.
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Old 08-25-2009, 12:50 AM   #5
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May very well be dodgy coil packs.
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:45 AM   #6
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bah, i stopped worrying about this, lol, iacv cleaned, new plugs, new coils, i swapped my engine lately cuz i blew a rod bearing and this one is the same, since it happens only after a long stop, and that the second start is always good, i wonder if it could be a gaz pressure issue / or gas pump 1st shot failing... (havent touched the maf tho, these things are sensible i dont want to mess with it)
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Old 08-25-2009, 12:05 PM   #7
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yeah the stall first then start ok is kind of a pain, but whatever.

what concerns me now is how i have to HOLD the key to crank to get it to start. for maybe 7-9 seconds with the throttle all the way down. i previously thought it was my 2 bad pistons (cracked ringlands on ej257 block) giving me low compression or something and causing it to be hard to start.... then i put 4 new CP pistons in and no difference.

so i wondered with a battery freshly trickle charged is it possibly the starter failing (original 95 jdm ej20g) and not turning over fast enough?

i guess in the meantime i should start with some more grounding....
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Old 08-25-2009, 04:25 PM   #8
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Injectors possibly. I just swapped my injectors into a friends car having to crank for about 10 secs to start. Turned out his injectors were leaking after shutdown and flooding a couple cylinders. My used but good injectors fixed it.
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:57 PM   #9
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i had this problem in colder weather in the winter. turns out it was the coolant temp sensor. good luck.
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Old 08-25-2009, 11:59 PM   #10
Speed Stick
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Where did you get the coolant temp sensor from? I wouldn't mind changing mine out if its not too costly and difficult. A buddy of mine said he did that but didn't make a difference.
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:45 AM   #11
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Same sensor as on any pre-1999 USDM engine, it's a reddish brown 2-pin sensor.
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Old 08-26-2009, 10:45 AM   #12
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Don't we have 2 sensors? I would assume one is for the ECU the other for the gauge?
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Old 08-26-2009, 05:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Stick View Post
Where did you get the coolant temp sensor from? I wouldn't mind changing mine out if its not too costly and difficult. A buddy of mine said he did that but didn't make a difference.
i got mine from a garage for about 15$. the place was pretty much a subie garage anyway.

my problems were similar to OP. very hard to start on cold mornings, and when it finally did it ran really rough and i had to feather the gas pedal to keep it running til it made it up to a good idle.

so i called this place and talked to this weird dude named george. a little weird, but know's hit ***t. so he told me where that was and i went home and put it in. and after that it worked fine. mine in my old 95 impreza L was under the intake runners on the right side. access from the firewall side. you have to have a deep well socket, maybe an extension, and some patience. the wire harness for it was kinda short and paint to get off but it was alright.

anyway you can probably get one for $15-20
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Old 08-26-2009, 08:51 PM   #14
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Ok cool. I'll look into changing mine then since it doesn't cost much for the part. Thx.
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper512 View Post
Don't we have 2 sensors? I would assume one is for the ECU the other for the gauge?
Yeah the brown one is for the ECU and there is a black single pin one that's for the cluster
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:10 AM   #16
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Awesome I will head down and order one today. So what 1999 and lower car should I be ordering from?
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Old 08-27-2009, 12:52 PM   #17
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Doesn't matter they're all the same.
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Old 08-27-2009, 02:39 PM   #18
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Awesome ordered. I hope it will make a difference if not its just another thing off the list lol.
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Old 09-02-2009, 03:12 PM   #19
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i just tried swapping mine out too. i think it was fine as the one that came out of the car had a restance of 2.6kOhms and the one i grabbed out of my old 1.8L had a 2.5kOhms reading. maybe the MAF next. and yes i did get some new plugs... damn $12 a piece from NAPA
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Old 09-02-2009, 03:46 PM   #20
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Note that a MAF out of a pre-1998 Legacy is the same as the one used on the EJ20G up to 1996!
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Old 09-08-2009, 03:20 PM   #21
AsphaltsCry
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yeah so i swapped the MAF and coolant temp sensor, and tried adjusting the IACV all the way to high idle. oh yeah new plugs too. i still have to crank the car for sometimes 30 seconds in clear flood mode (accelerator pedal all the way down) and then finally it will start... it like does nothing but crank, then it makes some sounds like it will start and then finally it will roar to life, but then if i get off the gas it stalls out and i have to repeat the whole procedure.

HELP
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Old 09-08-2009, 03:53 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AsphaltsCry View Post
yeah so i swapped the MAF and coolant temp sensor, and tried adjusting the IACV all the way to high idle. oh yeah new plugs too. i still have to crank the car for sometimes 30 seconds in clear flood mode (accelerator pedal all the way down) and then finally it will start... it like does nothing but crank, then it makes some sounds like it will start and then finally it will roar to life, but then if i get off the gas it stalls out and i have to repeat the whole procedure.

HELP
Well sounds like you hit all the standard areas. Maybe the next step is to send the injectors off for a cleaning. When was your fuel filter changed? It may not be a bad idea to measure fuel pressure.

-Rob
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Old 09-08-2009, 06:32 PM   #23
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Check the injector for sure. Actually like Rob said the filter too. My good friends car's fuel filter was terrible. Black sludge came out and when we remove his injectors a few weeks later the screens were all black as well. Replaced the injectors and the car fired up perfectly every time.
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:55 PM   #24
AsphaltsCry
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yeah i will for sure check the fuel filter...

it is the same one as when this problem started....

then the car sat for a while while i swapped the engine into my forester.
new gas but same filter

but the car revs fine once it does start and i took it on a short drive and drivability was normal too...

could it be only impeding flow during short injector pulse widths?

could my starter not be turning fast enough?
how about the coil packs. can i test them?

i did take the IACV back off and cleaned it and all, the diaphram too, but if i set it in the open position, it shouldn't be a factor...

thanks for all the help y'all
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Old 09-08-2009, 08:52 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marnix View Post
Note that a MAF out of a pre-1998 Legacy is the same as the one used on the EJ20G up to 1996!
That MAF is used on about 95% of the 1992-1998 Imprezas and Legacies sold in America.
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