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Old 04-16-2009, 05:26 PM   #1
Scott_2.5TS
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Default Dealership oils...

ggggg
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Last edited by Scott_2.5TS; 05-26-2009 at 05:47 AM.
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:30 PM   #2
Yannerd
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Dude you drive an 02 and you've been going to the dealership to get work done?

ARE YOU INSANE?!?!
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:33 PM   #3
notjustforshow
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If you have the space, consider the Do it yourself.

Synthetic at the dealership will run you i think about $80-90?

Doing it yourself would be about $40 oil and $20 or less for the filter etc.
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yannerd View Post
Dude you drive an 02 and you've been going to the dealership to get work done?

ARE YOU INSANE?!?!
x4.5

also yes synthetic lubricates more betterer.....is it worth it? depends how u drive your car...

if you drive hard run a 10w30 synthetic...dont run 5w30 if you like your bearings

but seriously you are paying more for the dealership oil than i pay for redline....LOL
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notjustforshow View Post
If you have the space, consider the Do it yourself.
you dont need space to change oil.....i've change my oil in walmart parking lots before (4000 miles road trips what what)...dont even need a jack...just park the car with 1 tire on the curb macgyver that ****
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff54 View Post
you dont need space to change oil.....i've change my oil in walmart parking lots before (4000 miles road trips what what)
I've done parking lot work before too. But I'd say if you are doing your first one and not mechanically minded, its nice to have space

My favorite is seeing guys trade parts and install at the park or something.
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:43 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by notjustforshow View Post
I've done parking lot work before too. But I'd say if you are doing your first one and not mechanically minded, its nice to have space

My favorite is seeing guys trade parts and install at the park or something.

hahaha yeah....

well hey OP if u want help changing the oil PM me and you can swing by my place and i'll give ya a hand (sorry for assuming ultimate noobness if you know how and just dont want to bother changing it yourself lol)

EDIT: nevermind your in victoria lol

Last edited by Jeff54; 04-16-2009 at 05:44 PM. Reason: i suck at life
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:15 PM   #8
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I'll say it before and I'll say it again and again, and again along with everyone else... (People need to search!!!)

I change my own oil with German Castrol 0w-30 full synthetic every 5,000 MILES (8,000 km)

Changing your oil every 4,000km is not only a waste of time, but a waste of money! The oil companise and dealerships have brainwashed everyone to think it's necessary so they can what? Ah.... Make more money off of you!

Lots of people say it brings them piece of mind or it makes them feel better knowing bla bla bla...

As long as you go with a good (True) synthetic, you don't need to change your oil as often. Dyno oil, yes, you'll have to more often than synthetic.

And dude, get into the habit of changing your own oil! It will not only save you even MORE money, it takes about 15min and people will respect you more when you tell them you change your own oil! (As Russell Peters says.... "Be a man! Do da right thing!) lol

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:28 PM   #9
rs420
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there is nothing wrong with getting oil changes at the dealer.

it is normally the same price as going to any of those quick lube places, and they use oem filter, etc..

if you have time/space/will to do it yourself, all the power to you.
if you dont, then why not
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:33 PM   #10
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information only, do as you wish.

oil cost store < dealership
Filter cost store < dealership
Labour yourself < dealership

above is all true

do you have time and want to do it yourself vs hassle free is the question.

And as for Regular vs Synth, you have a stage 2 wrx that takes premium, I would say Synth for piece of mind is well worth the extra 20-40 a change.


for what it's worth it takes 1 wrench a pan and about 30 minutes from start to finish including clean up. only pain in the ass is disposing of the oil at a proper facility meaning you have to put it in a container that won't spill in your car.

Right there can be worth the trip to a shop to get it done.
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:35 PM   #11
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dont go to the quick lubes.
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:00 PM   #12
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^
I used to work at Mr. Lube back in the day.
I was the BEST employee they had, and I consider myself to have been an idiot when I was a younger man. The amount of times I showed up still intoxicated from the night before.... ugh.

So yeah, I concur with your statement.
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff54 View Post
if you drive hard run a 10w30 synthetic...dont run 5w30 if you like your bearings
Why would 5w30 hurt your bearings?
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:40 PM   #14
Mdub
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I had sexy Royal Purp and it was amazing. Then I took my car in for its routine service (at the dealership), requested they not do the oil change...but they still did. Now I'm running some kind of synthetic mobil1 or something... It's fine but, you can say it was all in my head, but the car revved so much smoother with the Royal Purp, and really attacked the redline.
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:56 PM   #15
Jeff54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by semaj View Post
Why would 5w30 hurt your bearings?
as i understand it

in theory a 5w30 will have the same viscosity as a 10w30 when hot...but not in reality.....multiweight oils are made by using more additives (polymers) the wider the range the more polymers that are used....with more polymers more non-linear behavior can be expected at higher temperatures....

turbo engines run a lot hotter, and that heats the oil.....10w30 will hold up better to the hot temperatures than a 5w30....

i mean on mobil 1 5w30 it used to say right on the bottle not for high rpm use.....

probably not the best explanation...but im going by what a couple people have told me (dom @ maxwell being on of them, and a couple subaru OGs in AR).....i think i might email dom and pick his brain for a better explanation

but yeah if the temperature is above freezing i see no reason to run a 5w30


ps i dont use royal purple because it looks delicious and im always tempted to taste it....on pancakes....keep it away from me
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:05 PM   #16
Drakar
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5w30 is thin, but at the same time each brand is different, one 5w30 vs another is not always the same, they have standards but each company goes beyond with there on Flavors.

I don't touch Mobil1 anymore as alot of issues have come from using it.

I run either amsoil or Im looking for Motul, I mean serious protection is recommended, then run 15w50 or 15w40. I know this summer is gonna be hot so ill run something thicker for sure, but 5w30 is ok for the average joe especially if its synth.

if it's dino .... well I haven't used that for 10+ years now so I can't help you there
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:29 PM   #17
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So we can end this debate...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

A 5w-30 has the same high tempature viscosity as a 20w-30 because they both are a "30". However, the 5w will have a better Low tempature viscosity than the 20w.

Which means, when it's -20'c out, you want the 5w-30 as it will lube your engine better at initial cold startup than the 20w!

Which is why some people will use 5w-30 in the winter and then 10w-30 in the summer.

But ether way, at normal operating temp, the oils are both a "30" weight!

I'm just going off the top of my head from what I researched a couple years ago so if i'm wrong or my terms are wrong, feel free to correct me!

Jay
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:37 PM   #18
aznguy0087
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well you could all ways buy the oil some where cheaper, and tell them that you have oil. thats what a bunch of cus. do at my dealership, dealership mark up like crazy for Synth oil. subarus are so easy doing oil changes!!!
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:44 PM   #19
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On stock suspension, you don't even need to lift the car up to do an oil change. Just do it yourself.
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:48 PM   #20
Jeff54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydow11 View Post

But ether way, at normal operating temp, the oils are both a "30" weight!
in theory yes....but theory /= reality

i'll research more and post if i get unlazy lol

but think about it....if 5w30 really was the same as 10w30 why would they even make 10w30......why not just make 0w90? use it for everything lol
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:18 PM   #21
jaydow11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff54 View Post
in theory yes....but theory /= reality

i'll research more and post if i get unlazy lol

but think about it....if 5w30 really was the same as 10w30 why would they even make 10w30......why not just make 0w90? use it for everything lol
Correct, each oil is different. Example is the GC 0w-30 is more of a 5w-30!

However, people in really, really hot climents, don't need a 5w as the tempature never gets to a level where it becomes a factor at startup.

Which is why some people run a 5w-30 in the winter, and then a 10w-30 in the summer!
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:11 PM   #22
Jeff54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydow11 View Post
Correct, each oil is different. Example is the GC 0w-30 is more of a 5w-30!

However, people in really, really hot climents, don't need a 5w as the tempature never gets to a level where it becomes a factor at startup.

Which is why some people run a 5w-30 in the winter, and then a 10w-30 in the summer!

dude thanks...a-hole...now im going to be up all night re-researching oil....

ahahhaha

jk about the a-hole....i love everybody
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:41 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drakar View Post
I run either amsoil or Im looking for Motul, I mean serious protection is recommended, then run 15w50 or 15w40. I know this summer is gonna be hot so ill run something thicker for sure, but 5w30 is ok for the average joe especially if its synth.
Average Joe here, but I always run synthetic. Currently 5w30 Motul.
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:42 PM   #24
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I used 10w40 and when it started getting colder I was seeing like super high cold start oil pressures so I went back to a 5w40 in the winter. I don't want to see my oil pump working so hard.

Now with the new motor, Rotella T 5w40 for break in and then Amsoil Dominator 15w50. Get cases of 12 quarts cheap online.
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:57 PM   #25
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coming from the automotive industry. you cant go wrong with a 5 weight 20 or 5w30 oil.

Up north where i used to live i ran a 0 weight due to the low temps but down here in the lower mainland a 5 weight is fine.
I have used mobile 1 in my SS cobalt since new as it was oem spec but with my STi i will most likley run Amsoil and NGF filters.
mind you i dont really subscribe to the whole Amsoil 6 month oil change thing, but well you never know.
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