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Old 05-01-2009, 02:51 AM   #1
iRick.
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Default While the engine is pulled...

...alright, with all the amounts of information spreading around, and the new possibilities being created...I figured its time.

This summer I'll be pulling my engine, and sending in the cams to delta for a regrind.

I have a 2007 with 40k miles.

So here is the question, with the cams out, I want to know.

a) all the necessary work I can do with this. [example: I heard it is a good idea to get new something something for the cams? ]

b) what else can be done, and would be a good idea to do to the head itself?

I'm not looking to do a huge build, I'm not looking to spend thousands of dollars rebuilding my motor, I just want the cams for the extra little goodness, but I want to make sure there is nothing else that would be a good idea to do?

I'll be honest here, I don't know much about engines, but I'm learning little by little, here and there. So please, don't be sarcastic or rude, in fact,

don't give me the childs way of understanding, please throw the technical stuff at me, I want to learn all this and understand what is necessary.

Thanks.
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Old 05-01-2009, 05:07 AM   #2
ciper
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Cam seals, valve cover gaskets and bolt gaskets, crank seal, new water pump, consider a timing belt kit that includes new idler pulleys, upper and lower radiator hoses, accessory drive belts, spark plugs, exhaust gaskets, front oxygen sensor, thermostat and most importantly a new rear main seal.

All of those should keep your car running well for another 100k miles. The parts are relatively cheap compared to the time to fix each item independently as they fail later on.
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Old 05-01-2009, 09:13 AM   #3
yarrgh
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at 40k miles, he does not need a new water pump. it might not hurt to put a new gasket on there, but definitely not a new pump.

You can always port and polish the heads. Unshroud the valves just a tad and blend in the runners to the seats.

Any supporting mods for the cams? With the exhaust off, you can take off any ridges or manufacturing flaws.
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Old 05-01-2009, 09:25 AM   #4
Mazdarallye
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I work at a subby dealer and to be honest we typically slap belts on and send them down the road. tech next to me has been doing subarus since the early 80's and never had a problem. But its preference and if you have the money might as well do it. But again i have never had a subaru water pump fail.

I argee with yarrgh buy yourself a die grinder or awesome dremel and a porting bt kit and i would go ahead and atleast gasket match all the runners on the IM,head,EM. you wont see a whole lot of gain but it never hurts.

Not sure about the delta cams but upgraded valve springs are always a good idea, if the cams are too aggressive for the springs, or if you plan on reving past redline. or you could consider shaving the heads a bit for some extra compression but with that you will prolly need to keep an eye on A/F ratios and run 93 octane. just my thoughts on a boring friday morning
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:21 AM   #5
watchunglava
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woah , heres whats up dude .

first off the guy has an 07.

so on the rocker cover/valve cover there are no more bolt gaskets and they now come with metal sleeves.

at 40k you shouldnt have to do anything extra.

just the cams the cam seals and new valve cover gaskets . i would do spark plug gaskets too . mine went at 27k!!!!!!!!

but here's whats up . if you dont know what your doing your not going to be able to do this job yourself . swapping cams is way more difficult than bolting on an intake.

you need to adjust your valve lash ect when finished .

why do you want cams anyway?

what is your goal?

if your doing cams its pretty stupid to not port and polish your heads at the same time too . which means removing your heads sending them out and doing headgaskets when they return .

personally i think you should learn more about your vehicle first before doing crazy internal mods that are over your head.

try willty's hybrid intake set up first . if you can handle that we will move on!

you wouldnt want cams without the benifit of extra flow anyway
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:21 AM   #6
watchunglava
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ohh and just go buy a wrx!
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Old 05-01-2009, 01:56 PM   #7
iRick.
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i have a friend that has pulled and rebuilt engines about 5 times in the past year that lives down the street from me.
i plan to ask him for his help on all this.

alright so basically just chane out all the small stuff, p&p, and i suppose i'll need a tune?

i'm really trying to not get that crazy with this....

oh and mods are the hybrid intake, lightweight crank and alternator pulley, headers with full 2.5" exhaust.

also, should i get on the transmission board and ask about upgrading the torque converter? i know i'll need it....yes this is an auto.
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Old 05-01-2009, 04:07 PM   #8
watchunglava
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put in group n engine mounts and trany mount you will get more power to the wheels

also 2.5'' is too big for your motor .

p and p is not small stuff lol.

if you want to do it right you should have it extrude honed
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Old 05-01-2009, 05:10 PM   #9
ciper
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Parts are cheap. Downtime and labor is not. New parts will last longer than the used parts.

I never said he needed the items on my list. If he replaced all of it the car is essentially starting at 0 miles as far as the normal wear and tear items.
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Old 05-01-2009, 05:44 PM   #10
iRick.
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i am aware that it is too big for my motor. but you think i'm going to sell a full exhaust i got a good deal on for a quarter inch difference? if i could do it for free i would.


alright well thanks for getting a list going guys.
i may just do cams, mounts, and the maintenance stuff.
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Old 05-01-2009, 09:17 PM   #11
Jerry Xu
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and a tune like you said.

But if the motor is out, you should definitely do the flywheel. ACT streetlite at 13.5 Lbs ($235) or F1 racing at 12.55 lbs ($175) will dramatically improve the throttle response. Lower than 12 lbs you may get CEL's as they say.The work involved will be minimal,of course, if the engine is out.
Oh, also, the cam work is less than the head work as you don't really have to diassemble the head for cam swap.

I myself is debating: Flywheel first or cams first as I am only doing it in the car.

Last edited by Jerry Xu; 05-01-2009 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 05-02-2009, 01:45 AM   #12
williaty
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Well, first of all, why is the motor coming "out"? Is it just for the cams?

Valve springs are a recommended upgrade with cams if and only if the engine has been overheated in the past (which weakens the springs) so I doubt you'll need to worry about that.

As far as things to compliment the cams, you'll need an intake and an equal length header. Frankly, I'd much rather see you spend the money on the EL header, it's more noticeable.

If you wanted to throw some money at the engine, I'd call up Delta and ask them to build a set of heads for you. Have them put the cams in, PnP the heads, give it a multi-angle valve job, etc. Then all you'd have to do is to swap the heads. That's arguably easier to do for your year than a cam install would be.
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Old 05-02-2009, 05:00 AM   #13
iRick.
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but, the true question is, how much would that cost me?

as I said, I'm not looking to spend like 3-4 grand. I plan to swap this motor in a few years.
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Old 05-02-2009, 05:04 AM   #14
williaty
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IIRC, they do full heads for less than $800.

Speed costs money. How fast can you afford to go?
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:12 AM   #15
blernin41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Xu View Post
and a tune like you said.

But if the motor is out, you should definitely do the flywheel. ACT streetlite at 13.5 Lbs ($235) or F1 racing at 12.55 lbs ($175) will dramatically improve the throttle response. Lower than 12 lbs you may get CEL's as they say.The work involved will be minimal,of course, if the engine is out.
Oh, also, the cam work is less than the head work as you don't really have to diassemble the head for cam swap.

I myself is debating: Flywheel first or cams first as I am only doing it in the car.

correct me if I'm wrong but I heard some cars had problems with both a lightweight pulley and flywheel...
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Old 05-02-2009, 11:27 AM   #16
Jerry Xu
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Problem like CEL?
Well only some people get that. If I get CEL, that is ok. Before state emission test, I would swap the OEM crank pulley in to rid CEL.
I heard that the ScannguageII can simply remove the codes too.
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