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Old 05-07-2009, 12:05 AM   #1
mc2
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Default How to confirm if it's the rear main...?

Is there anyway to confirm if it's my rear main seal leaking or not?

I just changed it out, but i'm still getting leaks, i'm worried that it's leaking again now...

What else can leak down onto the exhaust/y-pipe?

If the rear main is leaking will it also drip down the front of the front cross member? i'm not getting any oil there, but it seems like it should drip down there if the rear main is leaking..
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:23 AM   #2
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There's also an access plate on the back of the engine up and to the right of the rear main that loves to leak.
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:25 AM   #3
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Things that leak onto the exhaust Y:

Rear main/inspection plate
Tranny front.
CV boots.
Both valve gaskets, due to the cross member.

If you replaced the rear main before then you know the symptoms. Take off the clutch inspection plate and look for oil coming down behind the flywheel. If it's the tranny front seal then the fluid will be running down from the bell housing. Removing the top inspection plate will also let you see tell-tale oil thrown by the flywheel. Check the valve cover breather hoses too.
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:51 AM   #4
mc2
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I changed the oil separator plate as well. I think i did everything right, but now i'm questioning it..

I know my passenger side camshaft support o-ring is also leaking, but the amount of oil coming down seems more than would come out of there.

Actually it's a 4EAT and i'm pretty sure it's not ATF

It sounding more and more like I must not have done the rear main well... The valve gaskets look very dry..
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Old 05-07-2009, 01:37 AM   #5
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so sorry.
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:21 AM   #6
mc2
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But doesn't it make sense that the rear main would drip down the front side of the cross member?
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:55 AM   #7
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So i just idled the car in the garage for 20 minutes, not a drop... Turned it off let it sit for 10 minutes, nothing.

Checked the PCV valve and associated hoses, all are clear and working...doesn't make any sense. That's the only thing that I could think of that would cause it leak only after/when driving..
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:57 AM   #8
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Your oil pressure at idle is trivial compared to at even moderate RPM. I currently have a leak from the oil pump that only happens above 3500RPM.
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Old 05-07-2009, 03:26 AM   #9
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hmm.. yeah i guess so..

argh. i hate it. after i changed the rear main all my front seals started leaking too! i don't know what it is. I changed the PCV valve at the same time... My mechanic said i might have a dud... i put the old one back, but both seemed to be working fine anyway..
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Old 05-08-2009, 01:28 AM   #10
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If you want to check the venting function of your PCV bend down next to the oil cap and gently loosen it. There should be a slight vacuum in that part of the crank case audible when the oil filler is just cracked open. Lack of vacuum indicates leaks or a gooed valve or huge blowby. If there is excessive vacuum or the engine stalls then the valve is stuck open. Also check the valve cover breathers for function if you have a cam seal leak. The PCV system on the EJ series uses a low vacuum value and there might be some benefit in replacing the stock screw in valve with an external valve.
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Old 05-08-2009, 03:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WcW View Post
If you want to check the venting function of your PCV bend down next to the oil cap and gently loosen it. There should be a slight vacuum in that part of the crank case audible when the oil filler is just cracked open. Lack of vacuum indicates leaks or a gooed valve or huge blowby. If there is excessive vacuum or the engine stalls then the valve is stuck open. Also check the valve cover breathers for function if you have a cam seal leak. The PCV system on the EJ series uses a low vacuum value and there might be some benefit in replacing the stock screw in valve with an external valve.

Thanks I will check it out. How do i check the valve cover breather?
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Old 05-08-2009, 01:52 PM   #12
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with the engine stopped and the oil cap off you should be able to blow through the tube into the engine on both sides and there should be no resistance to blowing air through the collector.
Here's another way to check the PCV valve. At idle pull off the pcv hose from the valve. It should instantly seal, no whistle, then put your finger over the opening, on a clean working valve it should click, then click again when you take your finger off, the engine may stumble momentarily. If it doesn't click both ways then you need to remove it and soak it with cleaner. When it is clean it will rattle when you shake it. If it is clean and still fails this test you need to replace it. The pcv system is a major contributor to idle air and cleaning the system can make the car idle funny for a little while.
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:43 PM   #13
mc2
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The PCV valve seems to be working fine. It's sealed when the hose is off. It also rattles when i shake it.

I'm guessing thats not my problem...


Quote:
Originally Posted by WcW View Post
with the engine stopped and the oil cap off you should be able to blow through the tube into the engine on both sides and there should be no resistance to blowing air through the collector.
Here's another way to check the PCV valve. At idle pull off the pcv hose from the valve. It should instantly seal, no whistle, then put your finger over the opening, on a clean working valve it should click, then click again when you take your finger off, the engine may stumble momentarily. If it doesn't click both ways then you need to remove it and soak it with cleaner. When it is clean it will rattle when you shake it. If it is clean and still fails this test you need to replace it. The pcv system is a major contributor to idle air and cleaning the system can make the car idle funny for a little while.

Last edited by mc2; 05-08-2009 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 05-08-2009, 09:50 PM   #14
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clean everything off and watch it while it runs. source of oil should become apparent.
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Old 05-09-2009, 02:29 AM   #15
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when it's idling it doesn't leak a single drop... I let it idle for 20 minutes the other day, nothing.
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Old 05-09-2009, 07:10 PM   #16
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Even though it is illegal in most states I suggest buying a few cans of engine cleaner and using it at one of those self operated car washes. Get your entire engine bay sparkling clean and drive for a few days then check again.
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:44 AM   #17
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Well i'm sure it's the rear main now. I changed the RH camshaft support o-ring where I was getting a lot of oil out of. That was the only place left where i can get oil down on the jack plate and dripping down the front diff onto the y-pipe.

damn it. i don't know how i did that wrong the first time...
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:31 AM   #18
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I bet you pressed it in too far (the rear main seal). If you tap it in all the way, until it stops, it will leak. It is supposed to be flush with the inside edge of the 45* bevel on the block.
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:32 PM   #19
mc2
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Actually i think it was flush with the top of the chamfer, not the lower edge of the chamfer. if anything i'm guessing i didn't press it in far enough and it didnt seat correctly.

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