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Old 04-21-2002, 09:54 AM   #1
Graham
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Member#: 11931
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Winter Park, FL/ SMU @ Dallas,
Vehicle:
2001 2.5 RS Turbo
257/FMIC/T3-T04S

Default Problems Starting Car

Let me explain to everyone how my car likes to crank up:

Turn over the ignition, and the car cranks for roughly three seconds. Then, with the key still turned over, the crank will just stop for about one second and resume. At this point the car might start, it just depends. When it does turnover and start, it sounds like a really muffled idle until the RPM get a chance to grow.

In sequence:

crank crank crank crank crank, stop, crank crank crank, start, crappy idle for two-three seconds.

Sequence two:

crank crank crank crank, stop, crank crank, stop, crank crank, start, crappy idle for two-three seconds.

My car starts, but its nasty and I'm not sure if its in any way damaging the engine. Right now, I have installed a J&S Knock Sensor and an Apex ITC. The car did this with the J&S, but not as bad. Now, with the ITC, its worse and takes longer to crank. Also, and I'm not sure how revelant this would be, I have a Walbro 255lph High Pressure pump, putting out a baseline fuel pressure of 51-52 psi which is really high.

Theories:

1) Number of piggy-backs spliced into the ignition wires is causing bad siganls from the ECU, resulting in mixed igintion signals.

2) There is something wrong with the motor of the electric starter, as stopping in the middle of a crank would be a cause of this.

3) Walbro High Pressure pump is putting out to much pressure, resulting in possibly clogged injectors. I am not sure at this time if a high baseline fuel pressure would be a catalyst, but I do know that I need to lower fuel press. via an SX regulator.

4) There is something wrong with a non-aftermarket piece and I have NO idea what it is.

Keep in mind, I have had my turbo on for roughly two months, and this problem started when I began putting piggy-backs on the car. I would like to know if others have this same problem and if there is any way to deal with it. Thanks so much.


Graham
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Old 04-21-2002, 11:47 AM   #2
8Complex

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Default

I think if the cranking stops while you're trying it, it means that your battery is low on juice. You might have a bad battery in your hands.

Make sure to set everything for 0 timing change and the least sensitivity and try it again... if it cranks slow and then pauses, IMO it sounds like a battery.
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Old 04-21-2002, 12:56 PM   #3
Avenger
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Default

Something might be wrong with the starter too. A weak battery would usually cause it to crank but slowly decrease in RPM while cranking over. Or it might even be a mixture of problem from your starter and battery.. Is your car a manual or an auto? Maybe the clutch switch is not working sometime.
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Old 04-21-2002, 03:16 PM   #4
Graham
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Location: Winter Park, FL/ SMU @ Dallas,
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2001 2.5 RS Turbo
257/FMIC/T3-T04S

Default

8, I didn't think of the battery yet, this could be the catalyst. I'll try setting the sensitivity down and see what happens. I wonder how it could have gone bad?

Avenger, my car is a manual, and there very well could be a problem with the starter.

Graham
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Old 04-21-2002, 09:40 PM   #5
Scoobie Steve
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Subaru L Ver 6 STi Type R

Default HMMMM sounds like timing

Sounds like you have to much timing! When the ecu recieves a signal from the start postion on your ignition it pulls timing to allow for easy starting. I would guess that your ITC is not allowing this to happen or you just have the timing advanced too much. I had the same problem on my high compression ej25 gocart engine. It was so bad that sometimes it kicked back on the starter.

Another thing it could be is fuel hydro lock. I saw this happen on a jetta when the ecu took a crap. It pumped so much fuel into the cylinders that it hydro lock the engine and it wouldnt turn over for about a minute until the fuel seaped past the rings. Check your oil and if it smells like gas or is thin this might be some of the problem. Although i cant believe you are running that rich!
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Old 04-21-2002, 10:20 PM   #6
8Complex

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Wait a second... did you get this problem just after putting the ITC in? You know you need to run it to an ECU positive... one that is uninterrupted... right? Most of the rest of the positives in the cabin are interrupted when you go to start the car... that might cause the same problem.
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Old 04-21-2002, 11:15 PM   #7
STiTuner
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that and it just looks trick when you turn your car off and the ITC takes a second to turn off with the ECU

Brad
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Old 04-22-2002, 12:07 AM   #8
RallyNavvie
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That is wierd since I had a J&S, ITC, and AFC in my car last year and I never remember having trouble starting it. Another thing to try to rule out the fuel pressure theory is to turn the key to ON and let the pump cycle before turning it over. I believe all this does is purge the fuel rails before starting and therefor the injectors shouldn't be open at all. After the pump noise stops start cranking. If it still happens you've pretty much ruled out fuel pump or fuel pressure problems.

~Garrett
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Old 04-22-2002, 08:50 AM   #9
Graham
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2001 2.5 RS Turbo
257/FMIC/T3-T04S

Default

Garret, usually let the J&S run through its diagonstic before cranking it over. This usually is enough time to get the fuel pump up and running.

8, this problem got worse after the ITC was installed, STiTuner put it in for me.

Yesterday the car seemed to get better, but I think I'm still leaning toward the bad battery problem.

Graham
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Old 04-22-2002, 09:41 AM   #10
8Complex

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Well, check your positive hookups too... if it started after the J&S was installed and got worse after the ITC, it still might be that. I think any decent parts store will check your battery for problems for free, too.
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Old 04-22-2002, 10:15 AM   #11
Graham
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Vehicle:
2001 2.5 RS Turbo
257/FMIC/T3-T04S

Default

I'll have that checked out.

Graham
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