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Old 07-19-2012, 08:13 AM   #776
a2_power
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post


Larsen NMO2/70B in front and Larsen NMO27B in rear. The 2/70 does 2m, 70cm, and GMRS/FRS. The 27 takes care of 11m (CB). Both are mounted into the roof with NMO mounts. The cabling is run between the headliner and the roof to the B-pillars and then down the B-pillars behind the trim pieces. The cables run under the carpet and pop out under each seat through the holes where the rear foot heat ducts come out.

NMO mounts through the roof are the only non-sissy way to mount antennas. First of all, mag mounts and clamp mounts aren't considered part of the car by your insurance. If they pop off an injure someone during an accident, you'll be liable and your insurance won't pay. Through-metal mounts are considered a permanent part of the car. Second, antenna performance is incredibly better with a through-metal mount. All the antennas we use on are cars are quarter-wave monopoles. They rely on a large, flat sheet of metal to act like a mirror and create the "other half" of the dipole. When you mount it to the rack, or the bumper, or whatever, there's no plane to act like a mirror, dropping efficiency hugely. I went from an improperly mounted antenna to these and the amount that my working range increased was staggering.

As you can see, through-metal mounts are also bomb proof.

The front antenna (2/70) is hooked to an Icom IC-208H 50W mobile VHF/UHF radio. The rear antenna (27B) is hooked to a Midland 1001Z CB radio. I'll try to remember to grab pictures of the interior mountings tomorrow.


I'll be glad to answer an questions you have as well, it's about time I put my Extra Class Radio Operator's license to use
Nice setup!

I thought I was the only Ham on here.

I'm running a IC-2720h with a SBB2nmo comet antenna for V/U
have a psr800 for the scanner
706mk2g for HF

Patrick, KC8UAV
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Old 07-19-2012, 03:56 PM   #777
williaty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmsullivan2 View Post
Let me clarify, my roof is made of metal haha... I was confused though with the sunroof opening there is a giant hole in my roof so dead center of the roof would be like 3 inches behind the sunroof, leaving no metal in front of the antenna. but I think Ty explained it already as saying dead center of the largest piece of metal, so just further back on the roof.
Yup, basically, wherever you have more metal, in front of the sunroof or behind, just use that and get it centered in the area as well as you can. You'll be OK for sure on 70cm due to how little metal is needed but you'll probably be lacking some on 2m.
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Old 07-21-2012, 03:43 AM   #778
alexmc
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I need some inspiration for mounting the transceivers and mainly power distribution. I have removed my radios and sold some, but i am in the process of putting them back in. And its not easy with such a small car that has no hidy holes.
I previously had the radios mounted on the back of the rear seats, which is were they will more than likely go again. Under the seats isn't an option as one has an amp under it and the other won't fit 3+ radios, and i dont want to run lots of cables under the armrest console.

As for power distribution, i did have 2 fuse panels in the rear behind the panels, but i decided to remove it as it was hard to access and blocked the panel fitting correctly.

I've been racking my brain for weeks as to what im going to do, for the fuse blocks im thinking of mounting them on the rear seats inside a polycarbonate box to protect them.

Heres my old fuse block set up that i removed;












Hit me with some photos for ideas and inspiration, the car is a 2008 hatch.
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Old 07-21-2012, 03:57 AM   #779
williaty
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Single most important thing is that every single one of those power wires needs to be fused within a few inches of the battery. If you're running them all the way to the back like that before you fuse them, that's a BAAAAAD idea.

Personally, I'd run a single, large-gauge wire from the battery to the rear end with a MAXI or ANL type fuse right up by the battery. Connect that big wire to a distribution panel in the rear. Cooper Bussman makes distribution blocks that accept a single large wire in and then break out into a fuse panel that allows for the creation of many different circuits each with it's own protection. That's really how this should be done.
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Old 07-21-2012, 04:04 AM   #780
alexmc
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The fuse blocks are fed by an 8 gauge wire that is protected at the battery with a 70amp fuse breaker.
What you have described is what i already have, my fuse panels are made by Blue Sea.
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Old 07-21-2012, 04:24 AM   #781
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Ah, awesome.

With that car and the underseat area already used, I'm not sure that you've got any choices other than what you're already doing.
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:49 AM   #782
kh15
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awesome!
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:44 PM   #783
RoxyTheImpreza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexmc
I need some inspiration for mounting the transceivers and mainly power distribution. I have removed my radios and sold some, but i am in the process of putting them back in. And its not easy with such a small car that has no hidy holes.
I previously had the radios mounted on the back of the rear seats, which is were they will more than likely go again. Under the seats isn't an option as one has an amp under it and the other won't fit 3+ radios, and i dont want to run lots of cables under the armrest console.

As for power distribution, i did have 2 fuse panels in the rear behind the panels, but i decided to remove it as it was hard to access and blocked the panel fitting correctly.

I've been racking my brain for weeks as to what im going to do, for the fuse blocks im thinking of mounting them on the rear seats inside a polycarbonate box to protect them.

Heres my old fuse block set up that i removed;

Hit me with some photos for ideas and inspiration, the car is a 2008 hatch.
I really like this set up, very clean! I need to do this... I'm afraid of something bad happening with all the add a fuse taps I am using lol! If I wanted to use this... But wanted one block to be used for switched power how would I do that?
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Old 08-10-2012, 01:18 PM   #784
TXwrxWagon
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Ty, I probably missed it... the unit you had pictured early in the thread you had a remote faced unit mounted above the rearview mirror... what is that unit?

I have (3) different radios here and I am hoping to pick up the NMO27 this afternoon, then I am going to try all (3) radios. I am sure the answer is a resounding yes, but figure I will ask:

I assume that the ideal tuned length will be different from the Uniden VS the Cobra VS the Midland radios respectively, correct?

I REALLY could have used any CB yesterday driving from St. Louis back to Dallas, sat in dead stand still traffic outside Little Rock, Ark for 2+ hours. UGH!

thanks

Rob
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:00 PM   #785
williaty
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It's an Icom IC-208H.

No, the ideal tuned length for the antenna is only dependent on transmit frequency, not anything to do with the radio.
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:37 PM   #786
TXwrxWagon
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thanks Ty, so the icon differs from a traditional CB... got it...

Rob
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:45 PM   #787
williaty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXwrxWagon View Post
thanks Ty, so the icon differs from a traditional CB... got it...

Rob
It's not a CB radio. It's an Amateur Radio Service radio that operates in the 144MHz range on FM. MUUUUUUUCH superior to a CB!
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:53 PM   #788
TXwrxWagon
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Wish someone offered the remote face on a decent CB... I've got a Cobra 75XT, which I know gets slammed all over... I've never had it like Darkhorse on a good antenna.. So... the Larsen goes on as soon as it arrives, no one in the Dallas area carries it.. so had to order it.. Get the NMO on, then I will compare the performance of the (3) units I have and see what I go with...

thanks Ty, lots of good info in here.

rob
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Old 08-10-2012, 05:00 PM   #789
williaty
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If you ordered the Larsen NMO27, you're going to cut a LOT off of it. You'll absolutely have to have a proper SWR meter. Drive out into the middle of a field with no metal objects in it and check the SWR on CH1, CH19, and CH40. The result you're trying to achieve is for the SWR on CH19 to be 1.0 and the SWR on CH1 and CH40 to be equal to each other. You'll see that, as you start, the point of 1.0 SWR will be on the lower channels and the SWR on 40 will be higher than on 1. As you trim length off, the point of 1.0 SWR will move upwards towards CH19 and 1 and 40 will start to balance out. You'll need a dremel or hacksaw out in the field with you, because you're going to make a LOT of cuts to get this done right. Lop off no more than 1/4" at a time or you risk overshooting and it's pretty damned hard to make another cut to get a longer antenna
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Old 08-12-2012, 01:23 AM   #790
TXwrxWagon
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great info Ty... I was going to PM you that exact question. SWR I am lucky to have a buddy with one I can borrow back in StLouis. As for the field, I live right next to a state park... so check & check.. LOL.

The Larsen NMO27b comes at 55" length or 35" length?

Rob
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Old 08-12-2012, 01:25 AM   #791
williaty
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I only see it for sale with a 55" whip, and that's the one you need.
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Old 08-12-2012, 02:08 AM   #792
TXwrxWagon
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I didn't even look at the spec for overall length as shipped. I'm on my phone so I can't look at the order till tomorrow. But thanks.. Roughly what was your final over all length?

I know it won't "matter" in terms of SWR but just curious how tall my mast "might be".. kinda thing...

rob
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Old 08-12-2012, 02:54 AM   #793
williaty
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I have no idea. About as long as the length of the pocket under the floor immediately behind the seats in a wagon

It just fits in there.
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:48 AM   #794
TXwrxWagon
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behind the REAR fold down between the rear strut towers is about 35.5"... :-D

I don't care if the hip is 50" as long as it performs well. To get me home, I dug out my Lil Will from the mothballs. Got the 10.5hr trip back to St. Louis this afternoon after they put a new windshield in the WRX. So it will be interesting comparison.

Thanks again Ty.

Rob
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:21 PM   #795
wumfpirate
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Thanks to all for the great info
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:45 PM   #796
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anyone rocking racoon tails or fox tails on the end of their antenna like old hot rods? i think it'll be my next mod, for fun of course
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:35 AM   #797
TXwrxWagon
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is there a "preferred", "better" or more trusted brand of SWR meters? I don't have access to one here in St. Louis and need to dial my Lil Will in before next weekend.

I am seeing units at the truck stops and Rat-Shack. Any need to worry about brand or price?

thanks

Rob
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Old 08-18-2012, 03:11 PM   #798
williaty
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Yeah, the Diamond and Diawa brand of SWR meters are well regarded. That being said, for just setting up a CB antenna once, just get something cheap and easy. I'm not sure if the truck stop stuff will be cheaper than whatever's cheapest at Universal Radio though.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:54 PM   #799
TXwrxWagon
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thanks Ty... truck stops $35 & Up

Rob
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:06 PM   #800
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Been a while since I've been in here. Got a quick antenna question:

I'm thinking of getting a 2' Firestik and was thinking about my mounting options. I remember seeing someone on here has one attached to their OEM Crossbars. Would there be anyway I could attach it to my Yakima cross bars or would it not work because it isn't bolted to the car?
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