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Old 04-14-2013, 09:48 PM   #1
randomhero199
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Member#: 260466
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:
2007 STI Limited
White

Default Setting up STI w/100k miles for track duty.. Input needed!

I picked up an 07 Limited STI in Jaunary, it was in a minor accident and has been at the body shop being repaired (on the back burner). I'll be getting the car back this coming week, and want to get it setup to be tracked at open days & HPDE, but it will also see a fair amount of highway commuting.

When I bought the car, before I ever took delivery it was taken to privately owned subie shop in Colorado and had timing belt done, spark plugs changed, coolant flushed, new water pump, and of course oil change.

The car currently has-
KW V3 Coilovers
Oversized radiator (I want to say Koyo)
Full exhaust system
Cobb AP2
Sparco harness bar (just bought, not yet installed)
17x9 wheels for track, 18x8.75 street
Whiteline positive shift kit (not installed, shifter feels sloppier than I'd like, any other bushings to address this??)

I know opinions are like a-holes, but looking for input on the following:
-Harnesses compatible with stock seats (want to keep the leather for time being)
-Brakes; Motul 660 is a must.... Are the Hawk HP+ the best bet for double duty?
-Fluids; I'm unsure when the diff was last changed, as well as transmission... really looking for ideas on this!!
-Oil cooler; is it a must?
-Gauges; What are the pertinent gauges to have, preferred brand?
-Bushings; worth it to throw the entire whiteline "gamete" on the car? Anything in particular I should address with the car @ 100k mileage?

Probably forgetting stuff, but let's hear it! Apreesh
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:20 AM   #2
growling_boxer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randomhero199 View Post
-Brakes; Motul 660 is a must.... Are the Hawk HP+ the best bet for double duty?
660RBF and HP+ are at two very different levels. I assume since you are asking this that you are new to track days, in which case the HP+ on Brembos can probably get you started at most tracks. But what tires do you plan to run? Even with something like Star Specs, you will be able to overwhelm HP+ once you have a little experience. Before you get to that level, any DOT-4 should be fine. The only pad I've tried that can handle track heat and works in the cold is the Carbone-Lorraine RC5+ (I went through quite a few different pad compounds, having a lot of them leaving big deposits on the rotors even with cooling ducts). Most people would suggest swapping your pads at the track, since double-duty pads tend to eat your rotors while daily driving, costing you more money in the end.

At 100k and >5yrs, I'd think all the suspension and driveline bushings are probably worth replacing if you can swing it. You should make sure you are using a tune that is safe for your car on track.
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:34 PM   #3
tireboi
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Harness: you should be fine with any 4 point or 6 point harness, I used a 4 point Corbeau when I had stock seats.
Brakes: Any DOT 4 is good, I personally use super blue and have had great luck with it. The HP + maybe a good start for you, it depends on the driver.
Fluids: Not a bad idea to do it. I change my oil before and after I take it the track.
Oil Cooler: It depends on your power levels, but again its smart to have for track duty.
Gauges: If you run an oil cooler then an oil temp is a must to see if you too hot or cold, oil pressure is an important one, boost, A/F. Any brand that has a good rep and accurate readings.
Bushings: at 100k like boxer said all the suspension and driveline is probably worn out at this point.

-If this your 1st time out just have fun!
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:48 PM   #4
randomhero199
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White

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Appreciate the info, keep it coming! I'm a motorcycle roadracer, have been for almost 10 years, and have done a few days in a car trying to transition over from motorcycles (getting too old to hit the ground, cage sounds appealing). I had a bone stock '11 wrx I tracked a few times years back and the brakes were the weak link, big time. After doing more reading it does seem like the popular opinion is to have a set of dedicated track pads/rotors, in which case what's the best bang-for-buck?

Is whiteline the way to go as far as bushings?
Also, what's a good starting setup for swaybars.... I've read 22mm front/ 24-27mm rear
As far as tires, right now I have hankook's on my street wheels I'll use to shake the car down, then possibly look into some R-spec take-off's.

One thing I forgot to ask, anyone make brake ducts that take the place of the fog light panels on these sti's? Thanks again
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:16 PM   #5
Glycerin
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DTC60s+BrakeDucts

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Look to turninconcepts for most of your bushings. Whiteline is also excellent. Both have served me well so far, with TiCs products being easier to install in some cases.

But before that, concentrate on brakes and engine/oil cooling.

Brakes:
SS braided lines
ATE Blue or RBF600 for fluid
I run Hawk DTC-60s on the track, HP+ on the street. I had HP+ on my first track day and was getting mushy pedal very quickly.
Brake ducts - mine are custom made using C5 Z06 ducts (and some ingenuity) and have solved almost every braking problem I have had on the stock brembos

Engine/oil cooling:
Crawford AOS
get an oil cooler if you can swing it!
run 90% water + Redline water wetter, it'll definitely help.
If you get into the engine, make sure you change your oil pickup!

That's about all I can think of right now. All the suggestions so far have been great.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:01 PM   #6
growling_boxer
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I wouldn't change out your sway bars before your first track day in this vehicle. IMO Get a feel for the car's handling at speed, then target what you want to change. Bushings should certainly help you get a better feel for your suspension setup without any weirdness from old, deteriorating rubber. I concur with checking out TiC. They have graphite-impregnated bushings that can go longer between lubrication without fear of the polyurethane seizing up under extreme conditions. I think TiC recommends an even sway bar setup, but I'm not sure (still on OEM here).

at >100k, make sure your soft brake lines are in good shape, or simply get new SS lines. I, and many others, use fairly cheap blanks for rotors, like Centric/NAPA. Their premium versions use painted hats to resist rust longer. A lot of people seem to like Carbotechs for dedicated pads, but I'd have a chat with Ken from KNS Brakes (vendor here). He does track days and can help make a good recommendation. Or you can scour through various old threads.

I don't know if anyone makes a full brake cooling kit from inlet to rotor. I think all the custom molded inlets are fairly expensive. Then there are two basic choices for connection from the hose to the rotor. RaceComp (RCE) brings the air in the bottom, near the LBJ, and I think without interfering with the stock heat/dust shield. Quantum Motorsports brings it in at the top by the ABS sensor, and requires you either cutting or removing your shields. I'm not sure what other companies may have similar. Either one offers hose with their kit. There is also one kit out there made by a rally guy to get the air into the wheel well area (with standard duct connections) instead of trying to crush and snake the ducting through there. if you look up cooling ducts here and on IWSTI, you should be able to see several different setups people have devised for the GD. some guys are even running fans inline.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:31 AM   #7
Low12Lightning
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Rear sway bar might not be a bad idea. I agree for the most part with growling_boxer about getting a feel for the car, and then go from there... but the push these cars have in stock format can be a real pain at the track. Putting a stiffer bar in the rear will help to eliminate the front end push, and increase steering input alot. Alignment is also pretty important. If it's a daily driver it can be hard to deal with an aggressive alignment, but adding a bit of toe out in the front, and negative camber will also make the car much better on turn in.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:36 AM   #8
tireboi
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ah since you have track experience the hp+ may not be good its hard to say and every track is different. Brakes are a big problem, most people run napa blanks for the weekend, I have the dba5000 two piece rotors a with ducting. You can go to home depot and get material to do the ducting for the foglight there.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:26 AM   #9
rbahr
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With a 100k mile car, I would do the following before I tracked it:

Replace all front suspension components - tie rods, ball joints, sway bar links
Check wheel bearings
Replace bushings - Powerflex is a good choice, other choices also work
Complete 'tuneup' - all fluids, belts etc
Brake hoses
Good fluids - oils, water wetter, brake fluid
brake pads - if this is the 1st time on a track, pretty much any tire and brake will work, if you get serious, then lots of good choices on the boards - I prefer Performance Friction as a track pad, but just one of many opinions...

Have Fun!!

Ray
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:17 PM   #10
Fred
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Replace the oil pickup tube before it breaks. That's what killed my engine at the first hpde with the STi. I didn't even know it was a major issue with the STi until after it happened.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:27 PM   #11
mav1c
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- If you want harnesses, you really need the whole package. Roll bar, race seats, and 6-pt harnesses. Since it sounds like this is an "extra" car, you shouldn't mind losing the back seats for the rollbar. If you want to keep using the stock seats, just use the 3-pt belts.
- Don't bother with trying to run the same pad for the street and track. Get a dedicated set of pads for track days and swap them in. Better yet, also get a dedicated set of rotors.
- As noted above, with 100K miles, check all the suspension bits and/or replace. I'd also suggest replacing wheels bearings.
- Replace radiator hoses with Silicon hoses.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:25 PM   #12
hkerekes
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If you can deal with the noise and dust use Carbotech XP8 pads. The dust isnt corrosive either. The noise is really really loud, my wife can hear it inside the house when i pull up.

When cold they will outbrake the stock pads. When warm they modulate easy and really perform well.
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