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Old 04-21-2002, 03:30 PM   #1
jblaine
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Default Omori P107 1DIN gauge panel

The first thing you should be aware of is that this will not fit the Subaru OEM gauge housing without modification.

That said, I am the most inexperienced DIYer on the face of the planet, and I was able to make it fit and not hack it up too badly.

What you have to do is remove the 1mm lip on the top and bottom of the panel (leave the sides alone). I used a utility knife/blade and whittled it off like I was working on a piece of wood. It took me 20 minutes to do the top and bottom cleanly. Go slowly and take your time. While you're technically always supposed to cut away from you, I found that doing the whittling as you see in the picture below you get a lot of control (you obviously have your other hand at your disposal as well, but I had to take the pic somehow )

Stage 2 is to attach the brass-colored plates to the plastic panel with the allen-head screws. Then slide the plates through the front of your Subaru OEM housing and see what happens. For me, with a good 3mm left to go before the P107 was flat against the front face of the housing/hood, the plates/sides that I just attached began moving toward each other the more I pushed the panel toward flush and the center of the P107 itself started bowing out of the mouth/front of the hood. It was clear that more material needed to be removed. For me, the side plates were rubbing at all 4 points against the main housing opening sides. Go slowly and start removing material from the housing itself at the appropriate inner opening corners if you have this same problem. Check your fit every few minutes so that you don't remove too much material from the housing opening (I did on one side ). The plastic is significantly harder than the P107 itself, so expect to spend the next hour carefully working on it. I used a rat-tail file and a utility knife until the center of the P107 that bowed out toward the cabin (once it's in your car) was not noticeable and there weren't any really visible gaps created by what little bowing there was.

Just be aware that it's not a drop-in setup is all... bleah.
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Last edited by jblaine; 08-25-2008 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 09-02-2002, 10:52 AM   #2
paul99se
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Bumpin' this for saving me much time and hassle this morning. The hobby knife approach is smooth and easy to control. I do not think a dremel (my other plan) would've worked out as well.
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Old 09-02-2002, 07:32 PM   #3
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Where would one find this panel???
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Old 09-03-2002, 02:16 AM   #4
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you can get it all direct from Omori ---> www.omori-na.com
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Old 09-03-2002, 10:52 PM   #5
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What does that din panel cost? Very interested in one.
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Old 09-06-2002, 04:45 PM   #6
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Somewhere between $35 and $50 IIRC.
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Old 09-07-2002, 03:33 PM   #7
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1)Carving not required. If you look closely at back of the panel, a slight groove is molded at the base of the 1mm lips. You only need to make several passes in the groove with your knife then bend the lip to break off very cleanly.
2)Use 1/4" spacers and longer bolts and mounting brackets will fit behind front edge of pod cover requiring no mods to cover. Use countersunk bolts for an even cleaner look.
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Old 09-26-2002, 05:27 PM   #8
jblaine
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Okay, I just wanted to update this thread.

I took the housing and panel-with-gauges apart 2 months ago and redid the whole thing.

This is so hard to explain without pictures. Bah.

Originally, I had it all set up by (step by step)
1. Screwing the Subaru gauge housing metal bracket down
2. Routing the gauge wires through the Subaru gauge housing "mouth"
3. Snapping the Subaru gauge housing in place (with wires and vacuum hose hanging out of its mouth now)
4. Hooking the Omori panel side brackets to the Omori panel + gauges with the allen-head screws
5. Hooking up the wires and vacuum hose to the gauges
6. Sliding the whole assembly in the mouth of the Subaru gauge housing.

This is how I saw someone say they had done it in a separate thread (search for "Omori panel" and username jblaine and you should find a big nasty thread on the topic).

It's all pretty confusing (to me at least -- I'm not used to dealing with this custom tweak crap ), and this left the gauges + panel + brackets moveable and not 100% sturdy. It really was pretty okay, but not acceptable to me. The fit was snug.

NOW, I redid it all, listed below as if starting from scratch. This is how I assume most sane and experienced people went about it:
1. Screw the Subaru gauge housing metal bracket down
2. Attach the Omori side brackets to the Subaru metal bracket instead of the to the Omori panel and tighten that stuff down 95%. Now here's the tricky part of this step. Since the Omori side brackets have elongated screw holes instead of circular ones, you can slide the brackets in and out an inch or two for adjustability (toward engine and toward trunk = in and out). You need to bolt them in so that they will be in the right position for you to snap the Subaru gauge housing in place and then attach the Omori panel to the forward facing ends of the Omori side brackets with the allen-head screws.
3. Run the wires through the mouth of the Subaru housing and snap it into place so they're hanging out of its mouth now
4. Attach the wires to the Omori panel + gauges "chunk"
5. Screw the Omori panel + gauges chunk to the forward-facing ends of the Omori brackets which are now inside (to the left and right) the whole assembly.
6. Now redo everything 6 times until it's just right, and before you put the gauge housing into place the last time, tighten those Omori side brackets to the Subaru gauge housing metal piece very tightly (otherwise they will vibrate loose, regardless of the lockwashers).

Whew. Now you have a rock solid assembly.

Screw this car modding crap

EDIT: Also, if I had to do it allll over again, I would
1. Take the Omori side brackets and throw them over my shoulder, stand them up in the garden as Scarebrackets, or tape them together to use as a make-believe cell phone
2. Make a custom plastic faceplate for the Subaru gauge housing that covers the entire opening except where the gauges need to go through in the center (while they're attached to the Omori panel)
3. Install the Subaru gauge housing metal bracket and install the Subaru gauge housing itself, with wires hanging out of its mouth
4. Attach the custom faceplate with some form of adhesive that can tolerate car temperatures
5. Attach the wires and vacuum hose to the gauges
6. Screw (or use a strong adhesive) the Omori panel + gauges to the custom faceplate.
7. Now the whole unit (housing + custom faceplate + panel + gauges is ONE ITEM that can be pulled out just like you pulled the clock out and disconnected it -- like an OEM gauge pack)

Last edited by jblaine; 09-26-2002 at 05:44 PM.
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Old 09-26-2002, 07:12 PM   #9
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Yeah it was kind of a pain in the a$$ wasn't it.
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Old 09-26-2002, 09:29 PM   #10
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Thank god, I thought I was just a moron struggling with it all. Good to know I wasn't alone
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Old 09-27-2002, 10:10 PM   #11
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do you guys have any pictures I'm thinking about buying this gauges.....also how much did you pay for the set up? I want boost, egt and oil pressure.

Pedro
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Old 10-08-2002, 03:34 PM   #12
CirrusWRX
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Great info - book marking it cause I'm going to have to do it soon too!
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Old 10-08-2002, 03:57 PM   #13
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Pedro, sorry I didn't see your post until now. For some reason I didn't get emailed that you had posted. You can see pics here at the Omori North America site. Mine looks just like that.

Off the top of my head, I seem to remember my mechanical boost, electrical EGT, electrical oil temperature gauges, and P107 DIN panel costing something like $650. The Subaru OEM gauge housing is $65 or so on top of that. Those prices are from around 4/2002 direct from Omori NA.
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Old 10-08-2002, 06:23 PM   #14
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Thumbs up

Got mine from the Malaysian site -- just over $400 shipped for the three gauges and DIN panel. Took 6 weeks from mailing a money order to a box at my door. They honor the warranty to, just have to ship to Japan for repair. Don't hesitate to post or email any questions on the install -- there is a lot of stuff you have to figure out the first time through.
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Old 10-26-2002, 08:20 AM   #15
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I have several guages on order from the Malaysian since July 23. It was only suppose to take three weeks. Still nothing yet. At least they reply to my
emails fast.
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Old 11-06-2002, 05:08 PM   #16
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I have the same setup with three gauges and the P107 DIN panel with Subaru gauge pod.

I don't understand what all the fuss is about. The install really wasn't that hard. The Subaru gauge pod and Omori P107 panel did not fit *perfectly*, but there was a very small amount of material to be removed at eh corners. When I say small I mean much less than 1mm, easily removed with a file or sandpaper.

Other than that minor modification, the install went quickly. It is easier to assemble the metal mounting brackets and gauges off the car, then put the whole assembly in at once. I found it easiest to assemble the Omori side brackets and DIN panel together, mount the gauges to the panel, then mount the gauage assembly to the Subaru bracket. Then you can place the gauge pod housing onto the assembly to make sure the DIN panel lines up with the opening. Then you mount the Subaru bracket to the car with the 4 provided screws.

I found that it took much longer to run all the sensor wires into the firewall and up to the housing than it took to mount the actual housing.

If anyone needs any help with the install, please feel free to PM or email me with questions.

Aaron
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Old 11-16-2002, 07:42 PM   #17
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Does anyone know if these instructions work for the P105?
Jay
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Old 11-16-2002, 08:54 PM   #18
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P105 is for the 52mm gauges, right? Won't fit the dashpod. Will fit in the dash but you're gonna have to swap the stock sounds for a single DIN.
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Old 11-16-2002, 09:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by jagwoods
Does anyone know if these instructions work for the P105?
Jay
The won't work as the P105 panel is metal. I'm modifing the OEM pod to accept the P105 (almost there).
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Old 12-13-2002, 02:20 AM   #20
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guys.... I have aftermarket indash player so P105 will work with it? Please let me know where I can order it. It will be a perfect fitment or will require some modification to fit?

Thanks
Tim
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